355mm brembos are done. Plus redrilled hubs and wheel clearance.

[Captain Bondo]

Got the adapters all set up for the giant brembos- everything clears. Barely.
You know the brakes are big when they make 18's look small.


First off the radial mount adapters:
http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206757
http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206758

These were marked and cut with a 5" grinder, holes were measured and center punched and drilled in a drill press, no milling machines. I seem to be able to fabricate by hand to within 0.010" or so.;-) It actually took two tries, first time the caliper was off center by about 1mm- because it is tough to get in there and actually measure the offset right.

Brakes mounted up:
http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206761
http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206762

Here is the wheel on:

http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206763

It was hard to get a pics of the brake clearance, but it's like, 1/4" from the front of the caliper to the spokes, and 1/4" inside the rim:

http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206764


Here is the clearance from the rim to the strut:

http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206765



It's roughly 10mm I guess, so the tire needs to be pretty square, or have a slight stretch, but I think it should be cool. This is a 18x9 et8 FWIW- seems a good offset vs the width to me.


Also I took apart the wheels to refinish the centers today. Several hundred 8mm 12 point bolts with nuts:

http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206766

This was not terribly fun, even with air. Oh you can see my home made socket there- I didn't have a 8mm 12 point so i welded the box end of a crappy 8mm wrench to a crapper 1/4" socket. Long weekend, no decent stuff was open.

Oh and here is the diff sitting on the trailing arms. Fits like a frickin glove. UPS claims my crap from IPD is supposed to arrive wednesday- so that is good:

http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206767


Here are the redrilled hubs:

http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206759
http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206760


These are redrilled 1/2-20 on 4x4.5". There is basically the same amount of meat left since the actual hole diameter is smaller. They will use screw through studs, basically they are bolts that thread in from the back side, to the head ends up against the backside of the hub, so no possibility of them getting pulled out or anything. It's going to work sweet.
These are supposed to come from summit along with lug nuts and my pimpin' Moser aluminum diff cover early this week.



Up next, I get the wheels centers media blasted tomorrow, and order paint. hopefully wednesday or so I can paint the wheels, assemble them late in the week, and get tires saturday and get the f'ers bolted up!!!!!!:cool:


Slowly but surely... once the car is a rolling unit things will hopefully move along faster!:oops:

[blkaplan]

Looks good kenny,

I like how you decided to use the thread in fasteners, drilling for anysize knurl would of made things very difficult interms of the amount of metal around the knurl... The tapped holes look thin but they should defn work.

--Ben

[Captain Bondo]

Thanks man. PM'd you back too. I do think they'll work out good.
Saw you think you need more clutches in your posi... you''ll come over to the dark side soon. A Cobra R carbon fiber clutch pack kit is $117 away if I so feel the urge. :oogle: :rofl:

44 views and 1 reply. I think everyone is like :???:. :rofl:

[Hank Scorpio]

looking good man.

Kenny if I start and finish another project car before you finish this one I will drive up and kick you in the balls. So I hope you get this done asap cause Im tired of waiting ;-)

[MikeHardy]

you gonna spot weld the back of them to keep them in place?

project looks very sweet though mista kenny.

[Captain Bondo]

Agreed Doug. I'm tired of waiting too. :) Time to stop working on other people's **** and spend some money. :nod:

Thanks Raven! Ya, probably a spot weld or red locktite is a good plan. I will most likely put a little tack on with the TIG.

Today it's off to the sandblasters and the paint store if I can escape work at some point.:cool:

[BDKR]

Looks awesome mang. Those wheels are gorgeous.

[BoxDriver2]

Nice to see you are still around and making progress. Wheels are really nice. A friend has some on his 97 [i think..] Nisaan 240

-Dan

[boostdemon]

my plans exactly... glad you pioneered yet another tricky task :-D

[Captain Bondo]

my plans exactly... glad you pioneered yet another tricky task :-D

No worries. It's kinda like postwhore purgatory. You know, ez-board penance.:rofl:

None of the noobs who will be redrilling their hubs a year from now as if they thought of it themselves will get that. :rofl:

[BB-Q]

44 views and 1 reply. I think everyone is like :???:. :rofl:

Yeah, the do-ers are looking at what you've done.

This is all valuable information to me whilst I decide whether to have the axle shafts redrilled for 5x108 or have the front shafts redrilled for 5x114.3

Keep documenting your hard work and save me months of graft and expensive wrong turns, please! :-P

[Fuzz]

damn, those are awesome brakes. when you bed them in and everything, will you post some stopping distances? i'm looking into a brake upgrade, and 302mm to 355mm+better calipers like your setup would just be amazing.

btw, when you test them, you might need to put some tape around your head so your face doesn't rip off from the deceleration.

[Bigbegum69]

sweeeeet..

quick threadjack.
are the front wheel bearings any different on the older 240's vs. the newer ones?

[Captain Bondo]

Cheers guys. I definitely hope this build illustrates a few different approaches to building these cars. I really like mods that eliminate deficiencies rather thatn just work around them, so hopefully I can demonstrate that without screwing anything up too badly. :rofl:
So far so good.

Honestly I have no idea why you'd want to redrill the rear axles as then you'd have to redrill the rotors every time you change them too, just so that you can keep an oddball bolt pattern.

Re-drill the fronts and run Mustang front brakes since you'll probably want to do a front brake upgrade anyways. You can get the 13" Brembo kit (from the late 90's early '00's Cobra R- basically like the S60R brakes) for about $900 US. So worth it.
Mustangs have their calipers mounted reaward of the strut like volvos too, so the brake bleeders and everything are on the right end of the caliper too. Do it! :cool:


I'm not sure that the stopping distances will be that amazing, since at least to me that seems like primarily a function of tire grip. Hopefully though stopping distances will stay very consistent even after multiple hard brake applications.

One of the neatest things about them to me (although it's kinda silly becuase it is purely an aestetic thing) is that they seem to create some kind of optical illusion and make the wheels look smaller. It's really wierd, with a 14" brake inside it an 18" wheels doesn't really look that big, even on a 240.

Bigbegum,

newer 240 do have different hubs with larger wheel bearings. You can easily identify them because the castle nut on the spindle is flanged. The early small bearing have castle nuts that have no flange and a thick washer underneath.

I can't remember when they changed them, between 1980 and 1984 some time.

[Hank Scorpio]

I think you'll be surprized Kenny. The R's made a HUGE difference even when cold.

[Wagner]

I'm not sure that the stopping distances will be that amazing, since at least to me that seems like primarily a function of tire grip. Hopefully though stopping distances will stay very consistent even after multiple hard brake applications.

newer 240 do have different hubs with larger wheel bearings. I can't remember when they changed them, between 1980 and 1984 some time.

The stopping distance seems to have something to do with weight balance and weight transition during braking as well, but that you already knew i'm sure (as it in fact affects tire grip) . And back-to-back braking tests (very un-scientific though) seemed to indicate, that when braking from very high speeds (130 mph+) bigger brakes will out perform the std. stuff very significantly.

They (front hubs) changed during the year 1980, at least here in europe. So 1975-1980 with smaller bearings for the front hubs. I checked.

[Captain Bondo]

Should be interesting then. I should probably retract the comment about the stopping difference not being better, since I think the rear brakes are going to be a lot more useful as well.

I should get a pic of the ford rear pads vs. the stock volvo ones tonight.

As an update, I'm hoping to get the wheels painted tonight, re-assembled tomorrow, then tires on saturday with a goal of doing a test fit late saturday or sunday if I get out there, otherwise monday I start hammering the fender lips. :rofl:

I start a new job June 11th, and my current job finishes the 6th, so I set myself up with a 4 day weekend. :nod: The goal is to have the wheels on, car prepped and stripped, and painted by the end of that weekend. :omg:

Then it's pretty much just sorting out the clutch, the engine plumbing and wiring, gauges, driveshaft, clutch, flog it. :evil:

[blkaplan]

Did you get new wheel hardware?

I sure hope so... every multipiece wheel i have seen requires you TTY the bolts on install

[towerymt]

I sure hope so... every multipiece wheel i have seen requires you TTY the bolts on install
IIRC, the Kodiaks had a torque spec. Craig Garfield broke some of the wheel bolts on one or more of his Kodiak wheels after they got very hot lapping Jefferson. I guess they don't stretch much.

[blkaplan]

IIRC, the Kodiaks had a torque spec. Craig Garfield broke some of the wheel bolts on one or more of his Kodiak wheels after they got very hot lapping Jefferson. I guess they don't stretch much.

yep,

all true multipiece wheels will have stressed bolt installation to maximize the strength for the given weight / fastener size.

That usually means you can't reuse em.

I know new hardware from BBS is $$$

not sure about the other companies.

[Captain Bondo]

Can you post a link to an example?
These are definitely not TTY and I've never seen any that are. Them's stainless steel. Don't even have a yield section on the bolt:
http://www.pbase.com/capnbondo/image/79206766

Most wheel bolts I have seen are either stainless or titanium and not TTY. It is fairly important that you torque them evenly, but that is more to keep the wheels cylinderical and sealed than becuase of some danger of failure.

I have assembled roughly a dozen sets of 3 piece wheels over the past 4 years, btw. :-P

You do need to use blue loctite and sealer though.

EDIT: and towery is right. They are meant for high fatique strength and certainly aren't supposed to stretch.

[blkaplan]

perhaps TTY was erroneously used, I am sorry.

every thing i have seen says its necessary to replace them if you disassemble a wheel.

[Dug strickler]

perhaps TTY was erroneously used, I am sorry.

every thing i have seen says its necessary to replace them if you disassemble a wheel.

That sucks... I wanna make my centers gunmetal and really dont feel like buying 1,000,000 bolts and nuts from BBS.

[Captain Bondo]

Well I just called three high end wheel repair shop and they said that you re-torque to factory spec and they never replace them.

I would seriously check for yourself Doug. My BS alarms are flahing like crazy right now. :lol:

The last ones I did were HRE, and they themselves said re-torque to 24ft.lb. :e-shrug:

Maybe BBS are odd, wouldn't suprize me. I know you can re-use them on kinesis as well.

I'd still like to see a source on this, half because I'd like to know and half because I think the :bs: flag needs to fly high on this one. Sorry bne, like I said, most of them are stainless or titanium and there's absolutely no need to junk them after one use.

[blkaplan]

Well I just called three high end wheel repair shop and they said that you re-torque to factory spec and they never replace them.

I would seriously check for yourself Doug. My BS alarms are flahing like crazy right now. :lol:

The last ones I did were HRE, and they themselves said re-torque to 24ft.lb. :e-shrug:

Maybe BBS are odd, wouldn't suprize me. I know you can re-use them on kinesis as well.

I'd still like to see a source on this, half because I'd like to know and half because I think the :bs: flag needs to fly high on this one. Sorry bne, like I said, most of them are stainless or titanium and there's absolutely no need to junk them after one use.

If all the manufacturers you have checked with agree with you then maybe its just a a crazy myth I heard somewhere, I don't state it as fact just as something that I have heard...

If your bolts are not TTY and now that I look around I only see people replacing bolts for aesthetics reasons or breaking during loosening, I agree. You can most likely reuse as long as they are not heavily corroded and they are carefully reinstalled and equally torqued.

[BB-Q]

sweeeeet..

quick threadjack.
are the front wheel bearings any different on the older 240's vs. the newer ones?

[THREADJACK]Yes, the early 240's had the same bearings as 140's. Changed when they went to the MKII model in 1983 (?)
[/THREADJACKOVER]

[BB-Q]

BTW, I checked when rebuilding my BBS and was told it was fine to re-use them (Propus C- titanium bolts).

[Bigbegum69]

would you be able to fit factory mustang brakes? such as a regular cobra?

would you be willing to make me a set of those nifty adapters?

Are you still going to use the volvo mc/juction block setup?


amazing work by the way.

[BB-Q]

Do you fancy coming over to the UK and doing mine for me? I'll pay for your flight.

EDIT: Oh, and bring some Mustang brakes- they're kinda hard to find over here!

[BB-Q]

Honestly I have no idea why you'd want to redrill the rear axles as then you'd have to redrill the rotors every time you change them too, just so that you can keep an oddball bolt pattern.

Re-drill the fronts and run Mustang front brakes since you'll probably want to do a front brake upgrade anyways. You can get the 13" Brembo kit (from the late 90's early '00's Cobra R- basically like the S60R brakes) for about $900 US. So worth it.
Mustangs have their calipers mounted reaward of the strut like volvos too, so the brake bleeders and everything are on the right end of the caliper too. Do it! :cool:


My Volvo doesn't have struts! :-P

Cobra brake kit (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/13-COBRA-BRAKES-BRAKE-KIT-MUSTANG-FFR-ROTORS-CALIPERS_W0QQitemZ200111561968QQihZ010QQcategoryZ3 3564QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) That's only £230 :wtf:

[Captain Bondo]

Boo. Prepping the wheel center took forever. Lots of nooks and crannies. Didn't get the paint on tonight. :-(

They're all ready now though, so painting should be a slam dunk tomorrow. Gonna let 'em cure saturday while I install the diff and get tires on sunday. Oh well. :e-shrug:. Better to prep 'em right than have 'em look ****ty or have the paint fall off in a week I guess. :rofl:

Oh also different mustang brakes will need different adapters with different dimensions since the calipers will be different. If someone wanted to do the exact same setup though I'd be happy to dig up the dimensions for them. The 13" cobra brakes will be different (in fact very different as I don't think they are radial mount calipers, so it's a different can of worms altogether. Still probably doable, just different. I was going to use them but I got a good deal on the big 'uns. :nod:).

Hopefully pics of painted wheels tomorrow. My brother wants to take "action shots" too so you might end up with some fightening pics of yours truly wielding a Sata.

[JohnLane]

Looking good Kenny.

Keep an eye on the wheelstuds. I broke wheelstuds in the rear of my car that threaded in through the backside of the axle just as you are doing in the front. To the driver this was not amusing.

[SteveMD]

Are you going to box your control arms? Seems to me that with increased braking power and more rubber on the pavement, one would want to do that.

[BDKR]

Hopefully pics of painted wheels tomorrow. My brother wants to take "action shots" too so you might end up with some fightening pics of yours truly wielding a Sata.


I can't wait to see those pics. Those wheels are awesome.

[Captain Bondo]

Thanks John, I certainly will try to keep my wits about me regarding the studs- I think though that if they are tack welded on the rear of the hubs and torqued so nothing comes loose, they ought to be ok, especially since they are fronts and aren't subjected to any engine torque.
The rears of course are the stock press-in ford studs since all of that is unchanged so I should be good.

Also, THE DIFF IS IN!!!!!111!!!! Went in beautiful, everything lines up perfectly!!!!!! I seem to have accidentally figured out this fabricating stuff somewhere along the line. :-P

The wheels are in epoxy now and already look SICK! I'm off to paint them now, so tonight I will post pics of them and the installed diffie.

Also I ordered tires that will be installed on monday. 285/35/18 and 235/40/18 Falken FK452's. I am stooooked.
:woowoo::woowoo::woowoo:

[Bigbegum69]

take a lot of pics! i got my diff back today, cant wait.

[volvoluvin]

Kenny!!

a-boot time we saw some thread action on your build up...

Those brakes look kick ass..no need to shave anymore, just go out for a stopping session...rip the hair off your face!
Can't wait for a ride...

We should do lunch one day, I would like to catch up...what's the new job?

[Captain Bondo]

I have pics of the newly painted wheel centers and installed 8.8, but pbase is being a miserable POS so I dunno if I'll get 'em up tonight. :rant: I need a new image host....

Ya we should Phil. Life is insane though. Getting married in September, so that is crazy, and I'm trying to finish the car for that. Trying to buy a house too, so it's all just obscene. Exciting though. I want to have a big insane turboricks "I finished the car and got married and bought a house" house warming party in the fall for sure!!

The new job is another step up. I'm an electrical technologist for a company called Wexxar now, they build robotic packaging machines, so I'm basically part of a project doing the programming to convert all of the analog controls to scaleable, modularized touch-screen system that is a single piece of software for pretty much all of the machines.
Mostly golf-shirt and kahki's, airconditioned office type stuff, but i still get to play with robots. And it's it's about a 30% pay increase (and about 130% over allvo. :rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl:)

[volvoluvin]

Married !!! Good man...
Buying a house!! Good man...

Where you trying to buy?

Volvo housewarming/got married party this fall sounds brilliant...

You in a golf shirt/kakis office environment makes me ssheeeet myself laughing...

Nick paid you? ****, I thought you did that job for free... :clap:

Congrats all around...you deserve it for sure!

[Captain Bondo]

Thanks man. We're looking at North Delta and Ladner/Tsawassen mostly.
We're looking a little in Richmond, but we're trying to keep it under 500k, so Richmond is doubtful. :grrr: You know, buy a blueberry farm and build a huge shop. :rofl::rofl::rofl: