starting rebuilt engine tips??

[TURBO_Volvo_Dan!!]

Hi, so i just finally have everything hooked up on my b230ft for the 240. should i be cautious about anything? or do anything special? thanks!

[TURBO_Volvo_Dan!!]

bump!! lol, i want to start it up!!

[HonestJhon]

disconnect the coil wire, and crank it for 10 seconds, 5 times.

then connect the coil wire, and start it.
take it easy on it for a few hundred miles....
then have fun?

[740ATL]

you're not doing anything experimental the first time right? You're running the same ems you ran the last time you had the car running? yes?

[BDKR]

disconnect the coil wire, and crank it for 10 seconds, 5 times.


Why? To get oil flowing through the engine?

A better (read: less wear) way is to disconnect the T belt and turn the auxilliary shaft. That will pump oil through the engine without having to turn the engine over.

[MrBill]

agreed^^ once your oil pressure light turns off on the dash board (or your gauge reads pressure) you're golden.

[TURBO_Volvo_Dan!!]

cool thanks! yes, every thing is the same as before, just the rebuilt block etc... thanks!! i will tell how it went in a sec.

[TURBO_Volvo_Dan!!]

i cranked it! the oil light was never on, and i had the oil feed line (turbo) off and nothing came out of it... how can i see if i have oil pressure? i dont have a gauge either...

[towerymt]

if you crank it for a few seconds, several times, you should get oil pumping out of the turbo feed line. if you don't get oil out of that line, DON'T START THE ENGINE.

[TURBO_Volvo_Dan!!]

now what then....

[TURBO_Volvo_Dan!!]

i cranked for a long time and then it finally started gushing out!!! yay!!!

[242Bleek]

I cranked mine over until I started seeing oil flow out of the oil cooler lines.

[Tick]

You need to watch temps initially while spending a few minutes slowly increasing rpm, a minute or so per thousand. Take it out and be easy. Don't run synthetic until the motor's broken in. Oil changes at 500, 1500, 3000, then switch out to syn on a normal schedule.

[towerymt]

I did two 10-15min run sessions, mostly from idle to revving up to around 3000rpm, and sometimes holding it at 1500-2000 briefly. Get it warmed up, dump the oil, let it cool, check for leaks and check for loose bolts, PUT IN NEW OIL ;-) and run it again. Then it's up to you whether you dump the oil while it's hot again, or drive it a couple hundred miles and then dump it. After that, I'd do another short interval (500-1000 miles), then do a normal 3000 mile interval.

[John V, outside agitator]

disconnect the coil wire, and crank it for 10 seconds, 5 times.

then connect the coil wire, and start it.
take it easy on it for a few hundred miles....
then have fun?
That is without a doubt the worst advice you can possibly give.
No oil pressure and turning at starter speeds will just be hell on the bearings.

Starting with first priming is terrible, stop repeating old BAD myths.

THINK ferphuquessake.

[John V, outside agitator]

I cranked mine over until I started seeing oil flow out of the oil cooler lines.

You don't listen much do you?

Get ready for extremely shortened rod and main bearing life.:nod:

[daveyseed]

what would you do then john, or did i miss something.

[John V, outside agitator]

what would you do then john, or did i miss something.

Run the oil pump externally, like has been suggested.
Run it till the oil lines are full and oil is in the head.
Then fire it up.

[500dollar744ti]

That is without a doubt the worst advice you can possibly give.
No oil pressure and turning at starter speeds will just be hell on the bearings.

Starting with first priming is terrible, stop repeating old BAD myths.

THINK ferphuquessake.

+1, not to mention washing down the pistons with fuel that will eventually make its way to the bottem end, when you havent even built oil pressure yet

when i rebuilt the motor in my jeep i went to prime the oil pump with the distributor shaft and no matter what i tried could not get any pressure (I KNOW, reusing original oil pump FTL) anyway i went and did what i should have done in the first place and installed a brand new oil pump and it primed right up... if i would have started that motor with the faulty oil pump i would have damaged something but since i was priming first and found the problem, no harm done... always get good oil pressure before you start a new or rebuilt motor FTW

[John V, outside agitator]

+1, not to mention washing down the pistons with fuel that will eventually make its way to the bottem end, when you havent even built oil pressure yet

when i rebuilt the motor in my jeep i went to prime the oil pump with the distributor shaft and no matter what i tried could not get any pressure (I KNOW, reusing original oil pump FTL) anyway i went and did what i should have done in the first place and installed a brand new oil pump and it primed right up... if i would have started that motor with the faulty oil pump i would have damaged something but since i was priming first and found the problem, no harm done... always get good oil pressure before you start a new or rebuilt motor FTW

I got one worse.
When I was in Boston the shop next door No-dick Motors was run by a stoner trustafarian punk named Ethan Blunt. the dud is having a problem with an old Saab V4 with a whupped to death distributor. He comes over asking what to do, I say "Grab a known good distributor and test it, substitution being quickewr than learning." There was a motor out of a car he's scammed some slimey weasel out of some dough which had been running but was sitting so when he said "I don't know if anything I have is any good" I say why not just yank your or this one here?"
He did, but when he pulled the dizzy the oil pump drive canme out with the dizzy so he shuffles back to my place to ask how to remove it, I show him, it was the problem so he throws the dizzy back in the block.
We jump ahead two years to when the sheet-head from New Yark has picked up his motor, abandoned the rusty hulk out back and is lowering the motor into a rust free PNW shell he bought off one of my Seattle customers.
Boy is too lazy to do as he was told on priming with a 1/4 deep drive socket with the dizzy out and fires up the motor, only 7000-10000 miles from rebuild by "Aircraft Engine Machine Shop, LonGisland NY", after doing to old wive's tale.

It blows up in about 5 miinutes.

Next day the idiot discovers no oil pump drive shaft,. calls me and asks what Einstein's lost cousin did. No idea.
He calls the doper and the dud says "John said to take the dizzy outa your motor".

He calls me and whines and wails and threatens (as all dickless sheet heads who are idiots do), I shrug "I said take a dizzy out of a known good motor, like his or for example "this one".
I didn't tell him to forget to drop the oil pump drive shaft back in----and if you had bothered to try to PRIME THE PUMP like you were told, you MIGHT have notice the lack of a drive shaft, and maybe thought to drop one in"

Just think a whole motor could have been saved if he had done the right thing.

[the poi]

I've done what John has said on the last redblock I put together, buuuuut, whatever do I do with my vitmotor? The oil pump is given off the crank and stuff :-(

[Raz]

lol... i'd just start it. :)

[John V, outside agitator]

I've done what John has said on the last redblock I put together, buuuuut, whatever do I do with my vitmotor? The oil pump is given off the crank and stuff :-( You fill the oil pump with WHITE LITHIUM GREASE and don't go moving the motor once it's mounted. This will help or make the pump prime.

And then you fill, and figure out some way (oil can, pressure pump something) to try and fill passages.
Moly-disulphide grease (CV joint grease) on the cams, and any skew gears (like the dizzy drive and oil pump drive on RedBlocks)

Make sure fuel and ignition is right so it will fire like RIGHT NOW.

Fire er up.