volvorod85
06-19-2007, 01:23 AM
Finally makin some progress, other than the new wheels, adj. torque rods, track bar and koni's....its now got power windows (it had crank windows originally) its got 13" front brakes and just did the R134a a/c swap.
Here be some quick pics of the brakes...
All the parts
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018767_bvqi9/all%20parts.JPG
Here is the finished product, boring without the wheel on I know, havent got more pics yet
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018769_gmmfe/complete%20no%20wheel.JPG
And incase your wondering, the original brake line, reshaped
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018768_oiaek/brake%20line.JPG
The limiting valves in the rear were removed and replaced with a junkyard proportioning valve, with 4 of the holes plugged. Balanced the brakes much better, and the damn thing makes ya dizzy when you stop. Definatly worth the money IMO, and it was easy to do. I threw on a master cylinder cause the old one was on its way out. Took about 3 hours total taking my time, and dealing with clogged rear bleeders (hint, open the bleeder screw and jump on the brake pedal hard!) now ive got to get it to accelerate as fast as it stops, heh heh
And the windows. Went to a pick a part on a 50% off day. about $120 I got 4 window regualtors and motors, all the wiring, and switches. another junk yard run got me 4 black door panels. I wanted to also insulate the doors for weather and noise reasons, but not with dynomat or equivilent for cost reasons, and the fact every door ive been in that has that in it, that i have do repairs in the door, that stuff is awful to get off, in chunks. its really bad. So picked up basically a roll of plastic at home depot. my GF cut the door shapes, made each one 2 layers or 4mic plastic and taped the edges all the way around. Cut slots for the wires and holes for the door attachments and door pull. (props to my girl friend who did the awsome plastic work, no joke. all i did was put them on the doors!) worked out pretty well and really cut the noise inside believe it or not. After doing this i also found the door seals have shrunk and a 2 inch gap is at the bottom of each door, that'll be next..anywho, it was an easy conversion. the harness' all meet at the drivers kick panel. the one harness with supplies power with the relay also carries to the pass front window. 2 wires on the fuse box, one ground and bam! power windows. all the glass is is the same.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018770_m2gum/all%20regualtors.JPG
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018772_tqxo4/wiring.JPG
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018771_jv8os/door%20covered.JPG
For those of you wanting to do this, here is the parts list....
*4 regulators with motors and mounting bolts
all related wiring, 3 total. one over the center colsole with relay, one under carpets to both
B pillars and back doors and the one fron the drivers door with all the switches
*All the switches 7 total and one for the rear child lock
*4 door panels and arm rests for power windows
Everything else works, mounting holes are in the doors, clips are the same. mounting bolts are longer, and if the windows are up it makes it a little harder to get the regulators out at the bone yard, but it can be done.
A/C was also converted to 134a, used thermo switch, new reciver drier, a few ounces ester oil, retrofit valves (stupid 240's and their horrible valve location!!) and its pretty cold, but the compressor ratteles a little and i think the expansion valve is sticking. the pressures are good but ive got a varying temperature, i tap the valve it gets colder, so we will see what happens. in a few weeks it'll get a T5!
Mark
Here be some quick pics of the brakes...
All the parts
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018767_bvqi9/all%20parts.JPG
Here is the finished product, boring without the wheel on I know, havent got more pics yet
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018769_gmmfe/complete%20no%20wheel.JPG
And incase your wondering, the original brake line, reshaped
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018768_oiaek/brake%20line.JPG
The limiting valves in the rear were removed and replaced with a junkyard proportioning valve, with 4 of the holes plugged. Balanced the brakes much better, and the damn thing makes ya dizzy when you stop. Definatly worth the money IMO, and it was easy to do. I threw on a master cylinder cause the old one was on its way out. Took about 3 hours total taking my time, and dealing with clogged rear bleeders (hint, open the bleeder screw and jump on the brake pedal hard!) now ive got to get it to accelerate as fast as it stops, heh heh
And the windows. Went to a pick a part on a 50% off day. about $120 I got 4 window regualtors and motors, all the wiring, and switches. another junk yard run got me 4 black door panels. I wanted to also insulate the doors for weather and noise reasons, but not with dynomat or equivilent for cost reasons, and the fact every door ive been in that has that in it, that i have do repairs in the door, that stuff is awful to get off, in chunks. its really bad. So picked up basically a roll of plastic at home depot. my GF cut the door shapes, made each one 2 layers or 4mic plastic and taped the edges all the way around. Cut slots for the wires and holes for the door attachments and door pull. (props to my girl friend who did the awsome plastic work, no joke. all i did was put them on the doors!) worked out pretty well and really cut the noise inside believe it or not. After doing this i also found the door seals have shrunk and a 2 inch gap is at the bottom of each door, that'll be next..anywho, it was an easy conversion. the harness' all meet at the drivers kick panel. the one harness with supplies power with the relay also carries to the pass front window. 2 wires on the fuse box, one ground and bam! power windows. all the glass is is the same.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018770_m2gum/all%20regualtors.JPG
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018772_tqxo4/wiring.JPG
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/files/1018771_jv8os/door%20covered.JPG
For those of you wanting to do this, here is the parts list....
*4 regulators with motors and mounting bolts
all related wiring, 3 total. one over the center colsole with relay, one under carpets to both
B pillars and back doors and the one fron the drivers door with all the switches
*All the switches 7 total and one for the rear child lock
*4 door panels and arm rests for power windows
Everything else works, mounting holes are in the doors, clips are the same. mounting bolts are longer, and if the windows are up it makes it a little harder to get the regulators out at the bone yard, but it can be done.
A/C was also converted to 134a, used thermo switch, new reciver drier, a few ounces ester oil, retrofit valves (stupid 240's and their horrible valve location!!) and its pretty cold, but the compressor ratteles a little and i think the expansion valve is sticking. the pressures are good but ive got a varying temperature, i tap the valve it gets colder, so we will see what happens. in a few weeks it'll get a T5!
Mark