never posted pic here so here are some

[96850R]

first of just got the nistos, and est grille on, oh and before people ask the door handles were painted silver before i got the car, they are not faded grey
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/3115/p7250005pr1.jpg
http://aycu32.webshots.com/image/24071/2004242085925925182_rs.jpg
http://aycu26.webshots.com/image/22945/2004288621151447335_rs.jpg
http://aycu08.webshots.com/image/23007/2004285184128615263_rs.jpg
http://aycu06.webshots.com/image/23405/2004205057513620472_rs.jpg
http://aycu19.webshots.com/image/23698/2004293277389878301_rs.jpg
http://aycu37.webshots.com/image/22276/2004232456324879304_rs.jpg
http://aycu35.webshots.com/image/23154/2004287983643565714_rs.jpg
and does anyone know how i can stop my roof from looking so faded? i did a three stage wax but that didnt do it, does it need a clay bar or wet sand?
http://aycu09.webshots.com/image/24528/2004285219646444969_rs.jpg

[HonestJhon]

if the surface of the clear coat is smooth, then its damage under the clear, and there isnt really an easy way to fix that without repainting.


try using a random orbital polisher and some cutting compound if it is rough on the surface, and then work your way up to a MILD polish, then sealant...that would be alright.
or if you're REALLY brave wetsand it>?

[BrickBorg612]

*I claim no responsibility for any damage you cause to your car's paint using this method*

The three step wax is really only a surface treatment... if you're hell bent on fixing that crap on your roof, this is what I've found works the best- only used this method on countless newer Bimmers (I work at a dealership in the detail shop), an older Porsche, a few Mercedes, and my old black 240 that had years and years of neglect, but it works absolute wonders. I don't make any pretenses that this is the be-all-end-all method for paint restoration, but just what I have found to work the best. I also usually use Griot's Garage products- more expensive, but I really like the results. Some other boys in the shop swear by Meguiars or Mothers, but I've never been able to get consistant results with them.

Equipment:
- 3M sandpaper (1,500 grit or higher, but don't go rougher than that unless you have utmost faith in your paint)
- Paint Cleaning Clay
- Orbital Machine Polisher (or exactly one metric **** ton of arm muscle endurance)
- Machine Polishes 1 and 3 (2 is kind of superfluous)
- Paint Sealant
- Extremely Diluted Simple Green or Dish Soap
- Good Rags (cotton please!)
- Your favorite Wax (I like Zymol better than pretty much anything I've ever used, but its pretty pricey)
- Car Soap
- Misc. Crap that I'm forgetting right now


Okay, here's the breakdown of this method- I'll skip the precise descriptions of the techniques for now unless you'd like them later:

Step 1: Wash the car with a 3:1 proportion car soap to diluted simple green/dish soap- be careful with this though, both through wax like you wouldn't believe. You might have to do this a couple times to get the paint completely bare, when its hard to run your hand over the surface (hard to descirbe i know, but you'll know what i mean), you're ready to go.

Step 2: Paint Cleaning Clay- don't skimp on this, or you'll be regretting it for the rest of this process. Once you've got the area as clean as you can, it'll still look like crap, but don't worry, we're just warming up. I like to wash again at this point just to make sure that the little bits of stuff don't get ground into the surface in the next step.

Step 3: Wetsand- Go slow and don't put too much pressure in one spot at a time, the goal here is a uniformly dull surface, again, you might have to do this a couple times to reach this point and get all the high spots down. You can go to one or two more finer grits here, but its not necessary if you chose your polishes right.

Step 4: Polishing- Start with the highest grit polish and work it down to number 1. Just make sure to keep using clean orbital pads between grits and wipe the surface down really really thoroughly afterwards. Here is where your preference/severity of oxidation/car age/car color come into play- You should have a nice, reasonably deep finish at this point, if you don't; if the oxidation is still there, go back to your heaviest polish and have at it again. Work back down to number 1 once you've eliminated it- just be careful with the orbital polisher not to cut through the paint if you have to go over a spot 2 or 3 times. I like to finish with a really fine Hand Polish, but its not necessary.

Step 5: Sealant- Much cheaper than it sounds and does wonders for filling in all the micro-scratches that the fine polish didn't get rid of. Goes on like a heavy wax, comes off the same way.

Step 6: Wax- You know how to wax your car right? Do it twice just to get a good solid base for the future going here.

Step 7: Go grab a beer and take a nap- you just spent hours on your cars finish- you deserve it.



I'll try to get a better write up than this going later tonight when I'm not hungover and forgetful. If anything needs clarifying just let me know!

[gangster phat]

*I claim no responsibility for any damage you cause to your car's paint using this method*

The three step wax is really only a surface treatment... if you're hell bent on fixing that crap on your roof, this is what I've found works the best- only used this method on countless newer Bimmers (I work at a dealership in the detail shop), an older Porsche, a few Mercedes, and my old black 240 that had years and years of neglect, but it works absolute wonders. I don't make any pretenses that this is the be-all-end-all method for paint restoration, but just what I have found to work the best. I also usually use Griot's Garage products- more expensive, but I really like the results. Some other boys in the shop swear by Meguiars or Mothers, but I've never been able to get consistant results with them.

Equipment:
- 3M sandpaper (1,500 grit or higher, but don't go rougher than that unless you have utmost faith in your paint)
- Paint Cleaning Clay
- Orbital Machine Polisher (or exactly one metric **** ton of arm muscle endurance)
- Machine Polishes 1 and 3 (2 is kind of superfluous)
- Paint Sealant
- Extremely Diluted Simple Green or Dish Soap
- Good Rags (cotton please!)
- Your favorite Wax (I like Zymol better than pretty much anything I've ever used, but its pretty pricey)
- Car Soap
- Misc. Crap that I'm forgetting right now


Okay, here's the breakdown of this method- I'll skip the precise descriptions of the techniques for now unless you'd like them later:

Step 1: Wash the car with a 3:1 proportion car soap to diluted simple green/dish soap- be careful with this though, both through wax like you wouldn't believe. You might have to do this a couple times to get the paint completely bare, when its hard to run your hand over the surface (hard to descirbe i know, but you'll know what i mean), you're ready to go.

Step 2: Paint Cleaning Clay- don't skimp on this, or you'll be regretting it for the rest of this process. Once you've got the area as clean as you can, it'll still look like crap, but don't worry, we're just warming up. I like to wash again at this point just to make sure that the little bits of stuff don't get ground into the surface in the next step.

Step 3: Wetsand- Go slow and don't put too much pressure in one spot at a time, the goal here is a uniformly dull surface, again, you might have to do this a couple times to reach this point and get all the high spots down. You can go to one or two more finer grits here, but its not necessary if you chose your polishes right.

Step 4: Polishing- Start with the highest grit polish and work it down to number 1. Just make sure to keep using clean orbital pads between grits and wipe the surface down really really thoroughly afterwards. Here is where your preference/severity of oxidation/car age/car color come into play- You should have a nice, reasonably deep finish at this point, if you don't; if the oxidation is still there, go back to your heaviest polish and have at it again. Work back down to number 1 once you've eliminated it- just be careful with the orbital polisher not to cut through the paint if you have to go over a spot 2 or 3 times. I like to finish with a really fine Hand Polish, but its not necessary.

Step 5: Sealant- Much cheaper than it sounds and does wonders for filling in all the micro-scratches that the fine polish didn't get rid of. Goes on like a heavy wax, comes off the same way.

Step 6: Wax- You know how to wax your car right? Do it twice just to get a good solid base for the future going here.

Step 7: Go grab a beer and take a nap- you just spent hours on your cars finish- you deserve it.



I'll try to get a better write up than this going later tonight when I'm not hungover and forgetful. If anything needs clarifying just let me know!

Go to a paint shop n have it fixed for $250 Screw all that^^^^^ and in the end it'll be done right.

[boostdemon]

Go to a paint shop n have it fixed for $250 Screw all that^^^^^ and in the end it'll be done right.

thats not the turbobricks way. when they paint your car, they cut & buff the clear coat after its hardened - with 1500-2000 grit wet sand, then a machine buffer (wool pad), then polish (foam pad) with a glaze.
if you still have a good thick clear coat on the car, theres no reason you couldnt/shouldt just repair the surface scratches and swirl marks. :rockon:

[BrickBorg612]

Go to a paint shop n have it fixed for $250 Screw all that^^^^^ and in the end it'll be done right.


Not sure how much of that you read, but I AM that paint shop...

And to do all that where I work it'd run you more like $300+ depending on how much and of what materials were consumed in the process-

All I was trying to do was help out a fellow T-Bricker that has a really nice car that is definitely worth the time to fix that roof.

In other news, this car is sick!

[96850R]

Not sure how much of that you read, but I AM that paint shop...

And to do all that where I work it'd run you more like $300+ depending on how much and of what materials were consumed in the process-

All I was trying to do was help out a fellow T-Bricker that has a really nice car that is definitely worth the time to fix that roof.

In other news, this car is sick!

thanks, but honestly i like the car, but i dont know how it is " sick" all that has been done is it was repainted because of an accident so the trim was painted and the door handles, and the canisto wheels, and the grill but thanks

[pooprah]

lose the wing