towerymt
09-08-2007, 01:45 PM
With the v1.1 bne camber plates that predate the Kaplhenke empire, I have -2.0° camber and +4° caster on both sides with the plates pushed all the way in, using 2.5" ID springs. Stock springs would limit the camber to 1.something because the spring hits the strut tower first. The strut nut on the top was pressed against the lip of the opening on the strut, giving as much negative camber as I could get with these plates (and stock control arms, which I plan to keep).
The Group A replica camber plates are taller, thus increasing ride height (or reducing strut compression travel for the same ride height). But the design allows for the strut nut to be tucked under the strut tower, so they can move in even further. The same could be done with the other plates if I stacked spacers between the plate and the strut tower. The GrpA plates are one piece aluminum, anodized, and feature Swiss made bearings. Needless to say, they're very light.
One issue I had with the old plates is the upper spring seat was riding on the bearing holder portion of the steel camber plate, so it cut a groove into the aluminum spring seat. It's not a big deal, but I didn't want the same interference between the seat and the aluminum grpA plates. I'm using a large fender washer as a spacer. It has been cut down to fit between the spring seat and the camber plate bearing. This adds even more stack height, but it's necessary. There are better solutions, like torrington bearings, but for now this is what I'm using.
Old on the left, new on the right. Washer before/after hacking and grinding. Upper spring seat with groove worn from the steel camber plate.
3649
The other two pics show how the upper spring seat would fit against the grpA plate without the spacer, and with the spacer.
The Group A replica camber plates are taller, thus increasing ride height (or reducing strut compression travel for the same ride height). But the design allows for the strut nut to be tucked under the strut tower, so they can move in even further. The same could be done with the other plates if I stacked spacers between the plate and the strut tower. The GrpA plates are one piece aluminum, anodized, and feature Swiss made bearings. Needless to say, they're very light.
One issue I had with the old plates is the upper spring seat was riding on the bearing holder portion of the steel camber plate, so it cut a groove into the aluminum spring seat. It's not a big deal, but I didn't want the same interference between the seat and the aluminum grpA plates. I'm using a large fender washer as a spacer. It has been cut down to fit between the spring seat and the camber plate bearing. This adds even more stack height, but it's necessary. There are better solutions, like torrington bearings, but for now this is what I'm using.
Old on the left, new on the right. Washer before/after hacking and grinding. Upper spring seat with groove worn from the steel camber plate.
3649
The other two pics show how the upper spring seat would fit against the grpA plate without the spacer, and with the spacer.