the poi
01-14-2004, 10:31 PM
Alright, to start; yes it's "ghetto", but once you look closer at the construction, you can see that it very well may work (and for me at least, at 14 psi, its been working just swell). Additionally, there may be some "better" options, but I figured I'd give this a shot and see how it goes. Credit goes to Capn Bondo for having the original idea.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986558.jpg
Hey look, it's a little PS intercooler. From its original 30" width, it's been reduced to 25" with little more than common tools, and it fits quite snug in the front rad support of a 700 series (this was done on an 89 760 wagon; so its the later model front-end).
The IC was bought off ebay for 200$ with the two main IC pipes, and for the most part, modifying it and putting it in is pretty damn cheap, unless you have an auto tranny, where an extra step comes in.
The tools:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986550.jpg
A hammer. Ooo, fancy.
Chisel. (translucent handle not entirely necessary)
Needle-nosed pliers
Hacksaw (you can probably use the one from the last picture instead...)
Degreaser/Cleaner (I'm a fan of Castrol SuperClean)
A clamp (big contact area preferred, may end up using a 2x4 or the like)
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986530.jpg
Screwdrivers for hose clamps
Wrenches/Socket Set
Knife
Duct tape (for auto tranny, but you may need it. Hell everyone needs duct tape)
Glove, nitrile (also for auto tranny
Flat metal file (probably could use sandpaper if necessary)
Finest hacksaw blade you can reasonable get your hands on (I beleive I ended up using a 32TPI blade)
Hacksaw
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986531.jpg
Industro-Weld. It's JBWeld in big tubes. 10$ at Autozone.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986532.jpg
I spose its not a common tool, but it may be hard to get by without one: Dremel/Rotozip with a spiral-cutting attachment
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986536.jpg
Angle Grinder. Probably don't have one of these, but it'll make cutting and smoothing things a hell of a lot easier. Also, they proove to be quite useful for a bunch of other things, so might as well invest in one. This is a 4in grinder from Home Depot bought at the staggering price of aroun 30$. (It's cheap, but it hasn't exploded/killed me yet, so I think of it as a deal)
Probably be nice to have a sturdy work table as well...
Let's start:
Lop an endtank off, I ended up using the inlet side, althoguh I don't see why it would matter either way.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986519.jpg
Cut here, "above" the weld, that way you can maintain the endtank (it tapers to the weld on one end) but not have to cut through the significantly thicker part "under" and on the weld)
Now that you have the endtank off, you want to cut the core away from the remaining part of the endtank (which will from here on be referred to as the "cheese-grater").
Fraid I don't have pics of this, so I'll explain the best I can. Cut as close to the cheese-grater as possible, this will reduce the amount of work when widening the CG's slots. Use a hacksaw until you can't get any farther in (the frame will hit the core) then take the blade out and cut by hand.
The core will look all mangled like this:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986524.jpg
And the CG will look like this: (the cars won't necessarily be behind it)
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986525.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986528.jpg
Now, take out the Dremel, and start cutting away the crimps in the CG slots (so we cna slide the core's tubes in freely)
FOR AUTO TRANNIES!:
If you've tried to fit the IC, you'll see how the aux tranny cooler lines can get in the way. Dunno if the position will interfere for all installations, but for me at least, I figured I had to make some room. Theres a couple choices, but the cheapest for me ended up being new hardlines, custom bent.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986533.jpg
Cap all the lines you remove with the glove's fingers, dict tape em up.
The line we're going to use is 5/16" "brake line" available at NAPA...maybe other places as well. I used a 72" section. Make sure to save the connectors from the original lines.
Bending the lines in the slightly tight confines, and cutting the lines without bending them, as well as flaring the lines at the ends, means you'll need some special tools.
Oh look, special tools:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986539.jpg
Pipe bender (10$ at CarQuest)
Tube cutter (I had one, dunno the price of one...)
Tube flaring tool (don't need a "Double-flaring tool") Abot 12$, from Ace hardware
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986537.jpg
This is how I bent my lines; the top line goes above the inlet, the bottom line hugs the "frame-rail." Be careful when bending so you don't crimp the lines; go slow.
***DANGAR***
To save yourself time and money, put the connector on the pipe, and flare the pipe, BEFORE bending the line. Otherwise, you'll end up having to do what I did and fitting the coupling over the short end before the bend and hammering the flare in instead of just pressing it in with the clamp. You may have to do this anyway tho on the first top bend; you might not get the bending tool on right with the coupler on.
Alright, now that we got that problem taken care of...
Time to resize the core. You'll need to just roughly assemble the pieces and make some measurements in the rad support area to determine how much you'll take off. I ended up cutting about 5". The IC fits right into the stock IC location, after removing the rubber rad supports on the bottom. Make you markings, (***remember, leave some core to be able to slip into the CG***) and cut away the core. Go slow so you don't mangle the fins too badly, remove the blade and go by hand when necessary.
Now, get to work fixing those mangled fins, need to get them flat and straight, for obvious reasons...
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986546.jpg
Now, cut away the internal fins so you can get that core to fit into the CG. I used a chisel to shave them off, works dandy!
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986547.jpg
And then comes a really entertaining part. The tubes will probably not match up very well with the CG, meaning you'll have to "make" it work. I could get half the tubes at one time in from either side by lightly tapping the CG on to the core, but I couldn't get them all on at once. The solution: get it halfway on as far as you can go from either side, then, leave it halfway on one side, and pound away on the edge of the CG until it can be aligned and pounded onto the other half:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986549.jpg
Onto the elaborate and highy technological sealing procedure
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986552.jpg
HAHA! That's rich! No really, not kidding.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986554.jpg
Clean everything up with the degreaser first, get it REAL clean and contaminant-free. Make sure you get all around the tubes, it's sometimes hard to see on the edges. Once it dries, you can shine a light behind it to check for holes.
This isn't as ghetto as it looks if you notice the amount of surface area the JBWeld is attaching to, and the fact thats its barely holding much weight at all, it's mostly just filling small holes and prevent the tubes from sliding out.
Rough up the edges of the endtank and the CG, use some rough sandpaper, and/or some crosses with the file. Increase surface area, cause we need some strength for the incoming JBWeld to hold. Also be sure to clean this up as best you can, lotsa degreaser.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986528.jpg
Now, hack down those inlets. Fill the inlet with a plastic bag or something, and cut the top off (i left about an inch) and file smooth. Pull the bag out along with the majority of the filings. Wash it out from the other side with a good deal of water and degreaser.
Now we set up the tubing. (I'm assuming you have the PS IC pipes, with the couplers. Most PS IC's I've seen on eBay come with em...) Get a tube that will fit inside the inlet side hose. I had an extra IC to TB pipe, perfect fit.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986555.jpg\
Cut off a little of the blue coupler, now we can couple the pipes together
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986561.jpg
Fancy!
Dunno if this work at all with the stock airbox, this is how it ended up fitting with my ricer cone filter setup.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986561.jpg
Outlet; 2" or so cut off the IC to TB pipe, stock coupler fully on the pipe to up its diameter, and clamp into the PS coupler.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986560.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986564.jpg
Note, however, that the charcoal canister is now somewhere else. In fact, it's pretty much where the A/C compressor used to be, that I no longer have. If you have one, you'll need to stick it somewhere else, out of the way
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986576.jpg
The oil cooler:
Take the side frames off, (gotta disassemble all of it) leave the top and bottom bracket things attached. Cut the part of the top bracket that extends out:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986571.jpg
On the top, the screw is just a little hook the holds the cooler onto the IC, the bottom is screwed into a sheetmetal bracket.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986575.jpg
Speaking of sheetmetal brackets:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986567.jpg
About 7$ from Home Depot.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986572.jpg
Get some screws to use. I'd recommend metric or just flathead screws, lowers the size of the toolbox you should keep in the car...
Top bracket, pretty straightfoward. That plastic support is pretty thick, so it can hold the weight.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986566.jpg
Bottom bracket
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986568.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986570.jpg
And now, terrify less Swedish cars with this gaping maw:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24987849.jpg
Knock yourself out, kids.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986558.jpg
Hey look, it's a little PS intercooler. From its original 30" width, it's been reduced to 25" with little more than common tools, and it fits quite snug in the front rad support of a 700 series (this was done on an 89 760 wagon; so its the later model front-end).
The IC was bought off ebay for 200$ with the two main IC pipes, and for the most part, modifying it and putting it in is pretty damn cheap, unless you have an auto tranny, where an extra step comes in.
The tools:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986550.jpg
A hammer. Ooo, fancy.
Chisel. (translucent handle not entirely necessary)
Needle-nosed pliers
Hacksaw (you can probably use the one from the last picture instead...)
Degreaser/Cleaner (I'm a fan of Castrol SuperClean)
A clamp (big contact area preferred, may end up using a 2x4 or the like)
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986530.jpg
Screwdrivers for hose clamps
Wrenches/Socket Set
Knife
Duct tape (for auto tranny, but you may need it. Hell everyone needs duct tape)
Glove, nitrile (also for auto tranny
Flat metal file (probably could use sandpaper if necessary)
Finest hacksaw blade you can reasonable get your hands on (I beleive I ended up using a 32TPI blade)
Hacksaw
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986531.jpg
Industro-Weld. It's JBWeld in big tubes. 10$ at Autozone.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986532.jpg
I spose its not a common tool, but it may be hard to get by without one: Dremel/Rotozip with a spiral-cutting attachment
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986536.jpg
Angle Grinder. Probably don't have one of these, but it'll make cutting and smoothing things a hell of a lot easier. Also, they proove to be quite useful for a bunch of other things, so might as well invest in one. This is a 4in grinder from Home Depot bought at the staggering price of aroun 30$. (It's cheap, but it hasn't exploded/killed me yet, so I think of it as a deal)
Probably be nice to have a sturdy work table as well...
Let's start:
Lop an endtank off, I ended up using the inlet side, althoguh I don't see why it would matter either way.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986519.jpg
Cut here, "above" the weld, that way you can maintain the endtank (it tapers to the weld on one end) but not have to cut through the significantly thicker part "under" and on the weld)
Now that you have the endtank off, you want to cut the core away from the remaining part of the endtank (which will from here on be referred to as the "cheese-grater").
Fraid I don't have pics of this, so I'll explain the best I can. Cut as close to the cheese-grater as possible, this will reduce the amount of work when widening the CG's slots. Use a hacksaw until you can't get any farther in (the frame will hit the core) then take the blade out and cut by hand.
The core will look all mangled like this:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986524.jpg
And the CG will look like this: (the cars won't necessarily be behind it)
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986525.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986528.jpg
Now, take out the Dremel, and start cutting away the crimps in the CG slots (so we cna slide the core's tubes in freely)
FOR AUTO TRANNIES!:
If you've tried to fit the IC, you'll see how the aux tranny cooler lines can get in the way. Dunno if the position will interfere for all installations, but for me at least, I figured I had to make some room. Theres a couple choices, but the cheapest for me ended up being new hardlines, custom bent.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986533.jpg
Cap all the lines you remove with the glove's fingers, dict tape em up.
The line we're going to use is 5/16" "brake line" available at NAPA...maybe other places as well. I used a 72" section. Make sure to save the connectors from the original lines.
Bending the lines in the slightly tight confines, and cutting the lines without bending them, as well as flaring the lines at the ends, means you'll need some special tools.
Oh look, special tools:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986539.jpg
Pipe bender (10$ at CarQuest)
Tube cutter (I had one, dunno the price of one...)
Tube flaring tool (don't need a "Double-flaring tool") Abot 12$, from Ace hardware
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986537.jpg
This is how I bent my lines; the top line goes above the inlet, the bottom line hugs the "frame-rail." Be careful when bending so you don't crimp the lines; go slow.
***DANGAR***
To save yourself time and money, put the connector on the pipe, and flare the pipe, BEFORE bending the line. Otherwise, you'll end up having to do what I did and fitting the coupling over the short end before the bend and hammering the flare in instead of just pressing it in with the clamp. You may have to do this anyway tho on the first top bend; you might not get the bending tool on right with the coupler on.
Alright, now that we got that problem taken care of...
Time to resize the core. You'll need to just roughly assemble the pieces and make some measurements in the rad support area to determine how much you'll take off. I ended up cutting about 5". The IC fits right into the stock IC location, after removing the rubber rad supports on the bottom. Make you markings, (***remember, leave some core to be able to slip into the CG***) and cut away the core. Go slow so you don't mangle the fins too badly, remove the blade and go by hand when necessary.
Now, get to work fixing those mangled fins, need to get them flat and straight, for obvious reasons...
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986546.jpg
Now, cut away the internal fins so you can get that core to fit into the CG. I used a chisel to shave them off, works dandy!
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986547.jpg
And then comes a really entertaining part. The tubes will probably not match up very well with the CG, meaning you'll have to "make" it work. I could get half the tubes at one time in from either side by lightly tapping the CG on to the core, but I couldn't get them all on at once. The solution: get it halfway on as far as you can go from either side, then, leave it halfway on one side, and pound away on the edge of the CG until it can be aligned and pounded onto the other half:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986549.jpg
Onto the elaborate and highy technological sealing procedure
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986552.jpg
HAHA! That's rich! No really, not kidding.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986554.jpg
Clean everything up with the degreaser first, get it REAL clean and contaminant-free. Make sure you get all around the tubes, it's sometimes hard to see on the edges. Once it dries, you can shine a light behind it to check for holes.
This isn't as ghetto as it looks if you notice the amount of surface area the JBWeld is attaching to, and the fact thats its barely holding much weight at all, it's mostly just filling small holes and prevent the tubes from sliding out.
Rough up the edges of the endtank and the CG, use some rough sandpaper, and/or some crosses with the file. Increase surface area, cause we need some strength for the incoming JBWeld to hold. Also be sure to clean this up as best you can, lotsa degreaser.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986528.jpg
Now, hack down those inlets. Fill the inlet with a plastic bag or something, and cut the top off (i left about an inch) and file smooth. Pull the bag out along with the majority of the filings. Wash it out from the other side with a good deal of water and degreaser.
Now we set up the tubing. (I'm assuming you have the PS IC pipes, with the couplers. Most PS IC's I've seen on eBay come with em...) Get a tube that will fit inside the inlet side hose. I had an extra IC to TB pipe, perfect fit.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986555.jpg\
Cut off a little of the blue coupler, now we can couple the pipes together
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986561.jpg
Fancy!
Dunno if this work at all with the stock airbox, this is how it ended up fitting with my ricer cone filter setup.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986561.jpg
Outlet; 2" or so cut off the IC to TB pipe, stock coupler fully on the pipe to up its diameter, and clamp into the PS coupler.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986560.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986564.jpg
Note, however, that the charcoal canister is now somewhere else. In fact, it's pretty much where the A/C compressor used to be, that I no longer have. If you have one, you'll need to stick it somewhere else, out of the way
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986576.jpg
The oil cooler:
Take the side frames off, (gotta disassemble all of it) leave the top and bottom bracket things attached. Cut the part of the top bracket that extends out:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986571.jpg
On the top, the screw is just a little hook the holds the cooler onto the IC, the bottom is screwed into a sheetmetal bracket.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986575.jpg
Speaking of sheetmetal brackets:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986567.jpg
About 7$ from Home Depot.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986572.jpg
Get some screws to use. I'd recommend metric or just flathead screws, lowers the size of the toolbox you should keep in the car...
Top bracket, pretty straightfoward. That plastic support is pretty thick, so it can hold the weight.
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986566.jpg
Bottom bracket
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986568.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/image/24986570.jpg
And now, terrify less Swedish cars with this gaping maw:
http://www.pbase.com/image/24987849.jpg
Knock yourself out, kids.