My 122 Gets some Serious Surgery...

[245gti]

Well...it's been a long weekend...literally and figuratively. Craig (Canuck on this board) came up Thursday night and we spent the better part of Friday, Saturday and Sunday working on my 122, replacing rusty stuff...

Here are a few "before" shots.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11364-1/Car+Resto+Pics+001.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11371-1/Car+Resto+Pics+003.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11374-1/Car+Resto+Pics+004.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11383-1/Car+Resto+Pics+007.jpg

The first step is to fit up the various panels to see what we have and to see if what we have is sufficient to replace the rusted panels.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11389-1/Car+Resto+Pics+009.jpg

Then it's time to start cutting...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11392-1/Car+Resto+Pics+010.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11395-1/Car+Resto+Pics+011.jpg

We were often greeted with this on the outside...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11404-1/Car+Resto+Pics+014.jpg

And this on the inside...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11407-1/Car+Resto+Pics+015.jpg

It seems whoever did the body work on this car liked body filler and butyl rubber...

This is the inside of the passenger side rocker cavity. This was full of mouse droppings when I first got the car. There were still more is other cavities...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11413-1/Car+Resto+Pics+017.jpg

Test fitting other panels...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11425-1/Car+Resto+Pics+021.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11428-1/Car+Resto+Pics+022.jpg

The section with the 1/2 holes is supposed to go from the top of the rocker cavity to the bottom. The driver side was completely rusted away at the bottom so we cut it away from the middle down.

Then we put in a length of pipe to add strength. I think we added significant strength...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11437-1/Car+Resto+Pics+025.jpg

After test fitting the rocker and rear rocker panel, it was time to affix the rear panel...temporarily...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11455-1/Car+Resto+Pics+031.jpg

Then it was time for Craig to work some magic on the rocker panel he fabricated to tweak the fit...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11458-1/Car+Resto+Pics+032.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11461-1/Car+Resto+Pics+033.jpg

Artsy cutting shot...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11482-1/Car+Resto+Pics+040.jpg

The inner rocker section, all painted and ready for the rocker panel to be welded in place.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11497-1/Car+Resto+Pics+045.jpg

Before the main rocker panel gets welded in, the rear panel is welded in place.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11500-1/Car+Resto+Pics+046.jpg

Then the main section is welded in place.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11512-1/Car+Resto+Pics+050.jpg

An artsy welding shot...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11530-1/Car+Resto+Pics+056.jpg

And everything is in place. Notice how Craig's panel matches the "bought" replacement panel...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11539-1/Car+Resto+Pics+059.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11542-1/Car+Resto+Pics+060.jpg

A similar process with the passenger side...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11548-1/Car+Resto+Pics+062.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11557-1/Car+Resto+Pics+065.jpg

While we had the driver side rocker wide open, we noticed some perforation in the lower section of the "A" pillar. This will get welded up before the car is done...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11584-1/Car+Resto+Pics+074.jpg

More artsy grinding shots...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11602-1/Car+Resto+Pics+080.jpg

Craig performing more voodoo on a piece of sheet metal that eventually found its way to the bottom of the passenger side rocker section...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11626-1/Car+Resto+Pics+088.jpg

Obviously a few hours since the last picture...Craig is welding the rocker in place. Note the rear rocker section is already welded in place...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11677-1/Car+Resto+Pics+105.jpg

Once the rockers were in place it was time to get to the fender arches. Although the panels I have will cover quite a bit more area, we only cut out what we had to. No sense welding in a panel that's larger than we need. Again, some surprises greeted us...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11683-1/Car+Resto+Pics+107.jpg

That butyl rubber stuff is wickedly sticky. Here Craig is trying to remove a section of the driver side fender arch. He actually had to brace his knee against the car to get it off...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11686-1/Car+Resto+Pics+108.jpg

The fender arch is removed...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11692-1/Car+Resto+Pics+110.jpg

We'll also be replacing some sections of the inner fender although all those pieces will have to be fabricated...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11695-1/Car+Resto+Pics+111.jpg

There was also some repair done to the inner arch...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11701-1/Car+Resto+Pics+113.jpg

We had a little help with getting some of that ugly butyl rubber stuff from the inside of the inner fenders. My son Ben skinned a couple of knuckles...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11713-1/Car+Resto+Pics+117.jpg

So...that's where we are. Yes, it took the better part of 3 days to get to this point. There are likely a couple of days left before it's ready for some filler to smooth everything out and prime. I can't thank Craig enough for taking three days out of his hectic schedule to help me out. In the end the 122 will look so much better and will be soooo much stiffer, it will make it all worthwhile...

Thanks Craig!

More to come...

[Rockmonton]

niiice work! where'd you bring in the bought patch panels?

[SwedishBrick242...]

That takes some serious dedication to do that and do it right. Great work! :)

[Acid8000]

Woah dude, Can I drive my 142 Over and have the same thing done?

[klr142]

Damn. That's some icky stuff! Looks like you guys are making some pretty good progress though. :nod:

[sethfc]

holtzboy (shane) needs to take his 242 up to you guys!

thats sweet - i love watching this type of repairs.

[Crazychopstick]

Hardcore repair for hardcore rust. Nice work!

[mrbman7]

Dale,

My wife is reading this thread over my sholder and she says she remembers sitting in that car :)and so do I (good show)

Looks like it was in serious need of repair. I always hate nasty suprises like that. Glad to see she's getting fixed rather than ditched! Good luck on the rest!

[2fast242gt]

im glade to see you doing this all the right way! looks awsome glade to see a rusty rare volvo get saved! p.s make sure you spray somthing inside the rockers. i had it done on my car just cuz i hate rust and wanted to prevent it, but theres rust proofing places that can drill a few small holes and fill the rockers with under coat so they dont rot from the inside out.

[McLovin]

Ha. It looks kinda like Craig did all the work and Dale just walked around with the camera.:-P It looks good!!

[MikeHardy]

awesome work from both of you.

this is why i don't buy really old cars anymore, i don't have the patience, skill or dedication to do that.

[245gti]

niiice work! where'd you bring in the bought patch panels?

Some of the panels came from an eBay auction a few weeks ago. The others came from Olof at Vintage Import Parts in Vancouver. Most are available from him although I got the last passenger side rocker panel. I couldn't get the driver side which is why Craig fabricated it.

Ha. It looks kinda like Craig did all the work and Dale just walked around with the camera.:-P It looks good!!

There were times when it felt that way too. I just don't have the welding or metal shaping skill to do some of the work. However, I did put in quite a few hours too. This work happened over a period of 3 days. It doesn't go terribly quickly. I also wanted to document the work that was done ...

awesome work from both of you.

this is why i don't buy really old cars anymore, i don't have the patience, skill or dedication to do that.

I don't either. It was Craig that talked me into doing the work and not crushing the car. I've been saying all along that this body was a guinea pig for all the stuff I've done. The plan was to eventually find a solid body and swap all the parts in. Craig convinced me to change directions.

More pics here...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/v/Pylon/Amazon+Surgery/

[BrickBorg612]

damn, that is intense stuff! Totally worth it to keep a 122 on the road for decades to come though. Are you going to rustproof these parts as well?

[WheyDey]

clapclapclapclapclapclapclap

looks great!

[drturbo]

Wow Dale. That guy does great work!

I'd sure like to see more pictures of your progress, AND the finished product!

[Rockmonton]

Some of the panels came from an eBay auction a few weeks ago. The others came from Olof at Vintage Import Parts in Vancouver. Most are available from him although I got the last passenger side rocker panel. I couldn't get the driver side which is why Craig fabricated it.


how did you find those patches fit? because they're certiantly relatively inexpensive, and look to be good, what kind of thickness and quality did they feel like?

[Canuck]

how did you find those patches fit? because they're certiantly relatively inexpensive, and look to be good, what kind of thickness and quality did they feel like?

Dale forgot to mention that he had a new camera and was taking lots of shots to try it out - great photo set. The workload was a shared thing with both of us working 'till we almost passed out on the job. As anyone that has done this sort of thing knows, most of the work is taking things apart and wondering why you started in the first place. Fitting takes a little skill and a lot of time - welding is quick. Massaging the metal after is more voodoo.

The patches were OK at best. The front lower quarter panel/rocker was fine but needed some shrinking to get rid of the wrinkles around the edges. The passenger side rocker was about 3/8" short (fabricated one was fine)! So we'll have to sort the gap out the next time I'm up helping Dale. The thickness of the replacements were all fine (all panels are 18 ga - which makes metal forming difficult) - I did do some of this on my car and can verify that different suppliers have all yielded good panels. The rear fender arches are trouble on 122's as the replacements are in 2 sections and are not perfect - only approximations that need a lot of work. The inner rear fender section is difficult as well as the outer skin comes very close to the inner (great for rust) and needs to be repaired in place first.

The red car will have a new rust free look for next year - and I also think it is now one of the most rigid 122's without a cage.

[Rockmonton]

Sweet, thanks for the info, would you think it'd be possibly easier to find a car/truck with a similar arch and wide panel and make it fit, or are the repro panels adequate? i guess that's a hard one to answer, lol, sorry.

[amargill19?]

Awesome work you two.

Dale, I guess the 122 is gettin' new paint all around then eh?

Keeping it red?

[Lord Tentacle]

Dale, when all is done and said, i think you already are vastly happier this way

[245gti]

Dale, when all is done and said, i think you already are vastly happier this way

I'm not sure which is less work...doing the body work on this one or swapping the fun stuff to another shell. Either way it's a lot of work. At least this way I know the car and all its quirks. I also know exactly what's been done to it...

Thanks for all the compliments guys. I didn't realize how much work this was going to be initially, but now that we're this far, there is no turning back. I also can't thank Craig enough for the commitment from his busy schedule to help me out...:nod:

[JonnyScorch]

Great work guys! I am both dreading and anxious to get started on the 242's bodywork. Aside from the rear buttcheeks and corner of the B pillar/rocker the car is pretty rust free. I'm hoping i won't have as many surprises as you guys did. Do you know of any sources for the flat "GT" rear sections? I checked that website but only found parts for the REALLY old Volvo's.

[243_Phantom]

Great work guys! I am both dreading and anxious to get started on the 242's bodywork. Aside from the rear buttcheeks and corner of the B pillar/rocker the car is pretty rust free. I'm hoping i won't have as many surprises as you guys did. Do you know of any sources for the flat "GT" rear sections? I checked that website but only found parts for the REALLY old Volvo's.

Awesome work. I hope mine doesn't have that much rust when i cut it open.:-(

oh, and i'm interested in finding those flat rear sections as well.

[JW240]

wow nice work! My amazon is just back from the welder and looks about the same, luckily it was a bit more solid than yours.

[Canuck]

I'm not sure which is less work...doing the body work on this one or swapping the fun stuff to another shell. Either way it's a lot of work. At least this way I know the car and all its quirks. I also know exactly what's been done to it...


I'm pretty sure this is less work - or at least it's better to have this one fixed as anything you buy is going to have rust somewhere and sometimes it's been well hidden.


Thanks for all the compliments guys. I didn't realize how much work this was going to be initially, but now that we're this far, there is no turning back. I also can't thank Craig enough for the commitment from his busy schedule to help me out...:nod:

It's all Karma, no thanks needed.

[Canuck]

Great work guys! I am both dreading and anxious to get started on the 242's bodywork. Aside from the rear buttcheeks and corner of the B pillar/rocker the car is pretty rust free. I'm hoping i won't have as many surprises as you guys did. Do you know of any sources for the flat "GT" rear sections? I checked that website but only found parts for the REALLY old Volvo's.

Have a look at Cross Canada Parts
http://www.crosscanadaparts.com/cgi-bin/crosscanada/product_list.html?img_num=9025

[245gti]

Time for an update.

Craig came back into town last weekend and we spent a few more hours working on the car. More progress was made although, again, not as much as we'd hoped. We had a minor (major?) distraction that took nearly a day to work out...

You remember the bulging spot on the passenger door? Well, we decided to find out exactly what was under that bulge besides rust and bondo...

What we found was rather astonishing. There had been a repair of some sort made. We're not sure if it was rust or damage. Regardless, it was repaired by welding in some random pieces of 14 or 12 gauge steel and then filling it with lead. The lead filling didn't go so well so it was topped off with bondo. After we peeled the bondo back we decided just to cut the offending area out and were left with this...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11824-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+004.jpg

This is the edge view of the piece that came out...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11827-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+005.jpg

That's how thick the lead was in some spots! And there was bondo on top of that!

Another shot of the piece we cut out, although this doesn't really show the mess it really is...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11830-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+006.jpg

More of the nastiness. This piece probably weighs 3 or 4 pounds!

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11833-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+007.jpg

Since there was some pretty ugly work done to the door edge, we decided the only way to do it properly was to take the door off...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11845-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+011.jpg

Then we welded in some support for the door edge and painted it...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11851-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+013.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11854-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+014.jpg

Then it was time to cut out a panel to replace the ugly one...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11848-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+012.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11863-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+017.jpg

We had to cut open the inner door panel to get access to the area.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11869-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+019.jpg

Once the piece was spot welded in place, Craig formed the edge...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11872-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+020.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11875-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+021.jpg

And then welded the panel in permanently...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11878-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+022.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11881-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+023.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11884-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+024.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11887-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+025.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11893-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+027.jpg

Now it was time to shrink the panel to get some tension and strength in it...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11899-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+029.jpg

First you get some heat into it with the metal disc. Then you squirt it with cold water to shrink...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11902-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+030.jpg

Works a charm. Once we had the panel shrunk as much as possible. we welded up the inner panel and put the door back on. Very little filler will be needed to make this door look like new...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11905-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+031.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11908-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+032.jpg

So...with that distraction out of the way, we went back to carry on with welding pieces in at the rear driver side.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11914-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+034.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11923-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+037.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11932-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+040.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11941-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+043.jpg

A little tidying up inside the fender and it's ready for some seam sealer and paint...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11950-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+046.jpg

Next time we'll be working on the passenger side. While Craig was welding up the driver side, I was mocking up the passenger side...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11956-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+048.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11959-1/Dec+1+122+Body+Work+049.jpg

This side will go a bit more quickly because we're not tearing into the fender arch. However, we have to replace more of the trunk floor so there is a little more cutting and fitting of custom bits and pieces to be done...

[klr142]

GAH! Craziness.

And Craig! :urgod:

Nice work guys!

[BrickBorg612]

Jesus ****! That is truly awesome stuff to watch!

[Acid8000]

So much work to welding aside form just welding, forming the metal. Making it look nice, making it tougher. Like an artform

[Niels]

Nice work guys!! I know how it feels to cut open the car and find all this mess! I wonder what your bottom plates and chassis looks like when I see these pictures, hopefully it is better then the rest. Respect :urgod:, keep up the good work!!

[Rockmonton]

that door edge and patch is quite beautiful!

Craig, may i ask what kind of welding setup you are using? i'm starting to find the BIG disadvantages in O/A with the PV starting to fix the floors

[245gti]

We're using my MIG welder with regular gas and .023 wire...

Oh, and Craig now has a new toy...:)


<table border="1" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="2" width="700"><caption>Optrel Satellite Welding Helmet</caption> <tbody><tr align="center" valign="top"> <td colspan="2">http://www.westernsafety.com/optrelwelding/optrelsatellitefrontview.jpg</td> </tr> <tr valign="top"> <td colspan="2">The Optrel Satellite is a more than a helmet. It is a command center for welders. No longer are you confined to a boxy welding helmet. The futuristic and sleek Satellite helmet has set a new standard by which all helmets will be measured. Take control of your productivity by only removing your helmet when you want to. In combination with Optrel's proven auto darkening filter (ADF) technology, the Satellite's easily accessible external controls not only eliminate the need for helmet removal, they make all other methods extinct. The multifunctional injection molded spherical cover lens not only reduces reflection, thus providing better visibility and optics, but its foam gasket ensures the protection of the ADF by sealing out harmful dust, spatter and moisture particles. The lens is molded thicker to resist heat warping during high amp welding.</td> </tr> <tr align="center" valign="top"> <td colspan="2">http://www.westernsafety.com/optrelwelding/optrelsatellitecontrols.jpg</td> </tr> <tr valign="top"> <td colspan="2">Controls for helmet as shown schematically above.
Grinding:
Simply press the oversize shade control button and the auto darkening filter is locked in to a shade 4. This eliminates filter flickering while grinding or brazing. Both are now possible without helmet removal. Depress control button again to reset ADF
Shade Range Selection:
This sliding switch can be used to select shade ranges of 5 - 9 and 9 - 13. Choose your range and then adjust to the appropriate shade using the shade level control knob
Shade Level Control:
Adjust this control knob to select the shade within settings of 5 - 9 or 9 - 13. Selections can be made according to the welding process, making this one of the most versatile helmets on the market
Sensitivity Control:
Factory set at red dot for most procedures. Adjustable to meet different welding applications including micro plasma, plasma cutting, and low amperage TIG welding to name a few. Match the sensitivity level to suit your specific needs
Delay Switch:
By using the sliding switch the time delay from dark to light can be adjusted to your individual requirements
Solar Cells:
Optrel's proven solar technology ensures a continuous power supply while also eliminating the need for on / off switches and untimely / costly battery changes
Adjustable Sensor Bar:
Eliminate the effects of ambient light. Simply slide the sensor bar up and the angle of detection will open from 60 degrees to 120, which optimizes performance during low current and over the head welding. Keep it down and reduce the chances of a near by arc darkening your lens.
Eye Protection:
Several LCD's and special filters provide permanent shade 14 protection from dangerous UV and IR radiation, even in the unlikely event of total filter failure</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Rockmonton]

niiice! what kinda welder? some of those beads are pretty tiny, what has that kinda control?

[245gti]

This one...

http://www.hobartwelders.com/images/product_shots/handler140.jpg
Download PDF Spec Sheet:
English (http://www.hobartwelders.com/pdf/spec_sheets/Handler_140.pdf) [432 KB]
French (http://www.hobartwelders.com/pdf/spec_sheets/Handler_140_FR.pdf) [139 KB]



Handler® 140

The Handler® 140 operates off 115 volt standard household current for maximum versatility. Comes ready to weld with or without shielding gas, no additional kit required. With an amperage output range of 25 - 140, it easily handles a broad selection of solid mild steel or stainless, flux cored and aluminum wires.
Summary (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/#Summary) Features (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/#Features) Accessories (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/#Accessories) Specifications (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/wirefeed/handler140/#Specifications)
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr> <th>Comes
complete
with:</th> <td>
Comfortable 10 ft. (3 m) H-10 MIG welding gun
Built-in gas valve
Regulator and gas hose
Power cord with plug
10 ft. (3 m) work cable with clamp
Sample spool of .030 in. (0.8 mm) self-shielded flux cored welding wire
8 in (203 mm) wire spool adapter
Extra .030 in. (0.8 mm) contact tips
Weld set-up and parts information chart (http://www.hobartwelders.com/products/popups/infochart140.html)</td> </tr> <tr> <th>Power:</th> <td>
CV
DC
1 Phase</td> </tr> <tr> <th>Processes:</th> <td> <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"> <tbody><tr><td>http://www.hobartwelders.com/images/miniprocess/wirefeed.png</td><td>MIG [GMAW]</td></tr> <tr><td>http://www.hobartwelders.com/images/miniprocess/fluxcored.png</td><td>Flux Cored [FCAW]</td></tr> </tbody></table> </td> </tr> <tr> <th>Material Thickness:</th> <td>Welds 24 gauge up to 1/4 inch</td> </tr> <tr> <th>Skill Level:</th> <td>Low</td> </tr> <tr class="lastrow"> <th>Applications:</th> <td>
Maintenance
Construction
Auto Body
Farm/Ranch
Rental
Home</td></tr></tbody></table>

[Dr Dokeh]

That's some outstanding work there :rockon:

[Rockmonton]

Ahh the hobart! nice

[stylngle2003]

craig does good work Dale!

[Volvos3]

Absolutly Ballin Work !!! Nice Pics to go with. Lovi It !

[boostwagon]

sick work. just get some paint and thing will be super spiffy!!

[84 Blue 240]

Looking to do a smaller version of that on my beast soon. Absolutely gorgeous work guys.

[YLD244]

looks like the door was pretty rusty inside.
a replacement door woulda been much easier, but probably not that easy to find these days.

[slowmotion]

looks like the door was pretty rusty inside.
a replacement door woulda been much easier, but probably not that easy to find these days.
I think a replacement 122 woulda been much easier!

Inspiring stuff though. Looks like it's time for me to learn how to weld.

[245gti]

looks like the door was pretty rusty inside.
a replacement door woulda been much easier, but probably not that easy to find these days.

The door is solid. The rust is just surface rust. Solid replacement doors aren't easy to find here and shipping them costs way too much money. That door will be fine for as long as I own the car...

[245gti]

I think a replacement 122 woulda been much easier!



That was the original plan. Had Craig not volunteered to put the hours in, that would still be the plan...

[YLD244]

yeah thats cool. its good to see you are doing things properly.

very unusual to see lead being used for filler!! that is awesome.
Awesome work man. Its gonna look great once it gets sprayed.

[Matt Dupuis]

Solid replacement anything for a volvo aren't easy to find here and shipping them costs way too much money.

Fixed

very unusual to see lead being used for filler!!

Was a bit more common in '67 than it is today, that's for sure. I think the only good lead guys can be found in SoCal now.

[Chris_R]

Roy Schmidt (RIP), from Hot Rods by Boyd, was a fantastic leadsmith.

Craig's work is pretty effin awesome too though! All the more so considering it's a 110 welder. :omg:

[jwernerny]

Nice work. That's what I should be doing to mine.

- John

[MikeJr.]

Looks really good guys. I can't wait to get hot an heavy into my 122.

[Canuck]

Sorry I missed the thread revival...on the welder front, Dale's Hobart is great, but I've been using a 110V Deca Mig (135E) from Canada's favourite cheap tool store Princess Auto. It's not the machine - on Dale's welder 100% penetration with control happens at the lowest heat setting and about 40 on the wire feed (some of those shots are from the back of the panel).

What the pictures don't show is that the complete door edge had to be rebuilt. The "patch" from the previous work was big and disgusting. You can see part of that on the first few photo's...that hunk of metal was only part of the patch, there was a wavy bit of nonsense that was attempting to work as the edge. So to fix that I had to reform the edge and make sure it was nice and straight before attaching the skin.

I loved Roy (RIP) from Coddington's soap opera...I've done some lead loading before and have the tools to do it, but it isn't easy and Dale's car won't need it. About the only area that I would still use lead is on door seams where filler would just chip.

We've still got another weekend of long days to get it ready for filler...my goal is to use as little as possible. With that shrinking disk on my polisher and a little dolly work you can get most dents on the 122 down to nothing (most panels have good rear access). For anyone that is thinking about buying one of these disks (eastwood) - do it now, you won't regret the cost.

[Rockmonton]

doin that with a PA welder! wow, i've gotta find a bottle and regulator for mine now!

[badvlvo]

Nice work. I'm glad I don't have any rust on my current cars.

[Captain Bondo]

I'm not sure what makes people think a 110V mig welder is somehow a restiction when we are welding 18 gauge. :roll:

A lot of the times the lowest tap on a 110V MIG will actually be a little bit colder than the lowest tap on a 200V+ machine, which is a good thing. Getting enouhg heat into the sheetmetal is NOT the issue in this app...


Craig,
Before you scratch the optrel up, get underneath the car or inside somewhere that it is fairly dark and try it out.

I have one and it can be a pain for bodywork. The issue is that it has no battery, it is solar powered only. So if you leave the helmet in the car and it is sorta dark inside, and go to the bench to grind something, get back in the car, and start welding, sometimes it'll flash you because it needs some arc energy for the sensors to start working again.

The helmet has killer optics and for bench work it is one of the best, but I plan on buying something that is dual powered when I can justify yet another 250 bucks for yet another hood. Maybe you won't mind it but I have found I would prefer batteries and a big window (next helmet will probably be a Miller Big Window Elite- at about the same price as the Satellite)

[Canuck]

Thanks for the tip Cap'n...I've still got my old big window Jackson, but so far so good with the new toy. I got a little flashed a couple of times when I switiched it to grind mode then forgot to switch it back. LED flashing means nothing when I'm still flipping my head down - 20 year's of practice nodding before welding :lol:

Can't wait to get the rest of these parts welded in and get the thing hammered out and in a coat of primer. I've still got another car to do before spring and have to clear the decks so I can get it done. It always looks worse before it gets better and we are just about at the point where we will be doing clean-up work on Dale's 122. I'm guessing but we've only got 3 full days (10-12 hours) and 2 partials (8-10 hours) in it at this point. With all the fabrication, I figure that's going at a pretty good clip. A couple more of the longer days and Dale will be left with an engine swap and dreaming of colour for spring.

Rockmonton - I've heard a lot of no-mind newbie welders yack about the Deca's from PA and say they are crap. Not true - get the gas kit when it goes on sale and enjoy. It's no Hobart/Miller but it is also a couple bucks less. The main difference from use (not imagination) is that the Hobart has a much nicer gun (better quality - doesn't get as hot) and the ability to hold a larger spool. I think I can mount the 5 lb spools in mine, I just never have. The rest (4 heat settings, variable wire feed, etc) are all pretty much the same, they are both 110V machines. I've had mine for 4 years and welded AL, stainless and MIG/MAG with it - works fine if you know what you're doing. Most self taught "welders" don't really have the slightest clue what they are doing. It's no industrial machine - but that's a different story (my next welding purchase will be a good TIG setup)

[Rockmonton]

Thanks for the advice! i've got one of the powerfist style PA ones with a gas kit already installed, the only thing i dont like about it is the fact that it has only 4 or so heat settings. it's solid state, so i've got it ripped apart to see if i can make a knob to control the heat too. was just out trying to weld some scrap stuff really thin frrom 26-22 gauge or so, and suprisingly if i do a bunch of tack-type welds and then like 5mm long or so beads, i can get a fairly flat, smooth weld with not a whole retarded amount of distortion, still having some trouble blowing through and keeping the tip far enough away to lower the heat a bit. Looks nice! i may be PM'ing you when it comes time for some advice on the tricky parts of the PV.

[Eli]

As anyone that has done this sort of thing knows, most of the work is taking things apart and wondering why you started in the first place.

Hahahahaha, I've been there...

Amazing, I am jealous and inspired.

Keep up the good work.

-E

[Matt Dupuis]

You two are bastards, by the way. I'd all but forgotten about it, and now I can't stop thinking about what Craig and I can do to this 242 sitting on my driveway... Like I didn't have enough on the go right now!

[Canuck]

But that '75 242 is going to be so friggin nice - the planning and designing is the fun (cheap) part - the rest is just work. There's lots of time, that epoxy primer isn't going to cause any problems for a while.

[Canuck]

the only thing i dont like about it is the fact that it has only 4 or so heat settings. it's solid state, so i've got it ripped apart to see if i can make a knob to control the heat too. was just out trying to weld some scrap stuff really thin frrom 26-22 gauge or so, and suprisingly if i do a bunch of tack-type welds and then like 5mm long or so beads, i can get a fairly flat, smooth weld with not a whole retarded amount of distortion, still having some trouble blowing through and keeping the tip far enough away to lower the heat a bit. Looks nice! i may be PM'ing you when it comes time for some advice on the tricky parts of the PV.


There are a couple of things to mention here...first of all, put the cover back on the welder - less heat is not the issue. There are few techniques for welding sheet metal that don't require you to stitch together tacks. As long as the tacks have good penetration, there isn't any difference. The benifit is that the tack method produces flatter welds than trying to draw a bead. The heat front as you try to draw a bead builds up and will cause you to blow through every time. I usually work in 2" sections and alternate where I work along a panel.

Get your tip down as close to the weld area as possible - this will allow the sheilding gas to do its work. Reducing the heat distortion is partially understanding what is going on during the process. The heat produced by the weld causes expansion - localizing that heat by only doing a little at a time is one of the keys to keeping things flat. If you are butt welding - keep a water bottle handy to spritz the area as you go. For the most part, the warp will be caused by sudden changes in the tension of the panel. Not much you can do about that except apply some tension to the panel as you go. I often use a piece of copper pipe and some pressure on the back of the weld area. The pipe not only acts as a heat sink, but tensions the panel as I weld.

Cutting panels or heating them will cause a change in the tension dynamics of the panel. You have to restore this or you'll end up with what Dale had on his car (hey, back to the thread...) with up to 1/2" of filler making up the difference. So you should be hammering the panel trying to maintain the tension. But remember, a metal hammer and dolly will stretch the area, a soft dolly or hammer can be used for shrinking.

Let me know how you make out.

[Captain Bondo]

26-22 gauge or so,

Lots of tacks is the way to go, at least until you get a good feel.

Some of the 120V welders claim to weld 26 gauge as a minimum, but 26 gauge is like, 0.0179" thick. I can't think of anything on a car that is that thin, but if i found something that thin I think I would TIG it. Anything less than 22 gauge can be really frustrating with MIG.

I use a wet rag to quench as I go. same effect as the water bottle basically.

[Rockmonton]

thanks for the input!

what's your opinion on using a joggler to make a flange and punch a couple holes in it and do almost plug-type welds and then run short beads around the seam?

as well, what about the technique? i have been pulling as it seems to be easier to control, is this appropriate?

sorry for the partial hijack , back on topic!

[Canuck]

thanks for the input!

what's your opinion on using a joggler to make a flange and punch a couple holes in it and do almost plug-type welds and then run short beads around the seam?

as well, what about the technique? i have been pulling as it seems to be easier to control, is this appropriate?

sorry for the partial hijack , back on topic!


As for joggling a panel - it depends on where the repair is going. On Dale's car I joggled the fender arches as this helps keep tension on the panel. As soon as you cut the fender arches, the top of the remaining 1/4 panel pops in. Getting it to pop back out as you butt weld it is difficult, so I joggle them. The rest is butt welded. As long as you get good penetration, it's the best way to go.

Pushing, pulling doesn't matter if you're stringing tacks along.

Craig

[evolwun]

I was just told about this thread... WOW! Great work guys. Far better than I could achieve with my 122.

[245gti]

Time for a bit of an update...

Right then...

The Mud Slingin' Maniac division of Coburn Performance spent a few (ok...many would be more accurate) hours over the weekend prepping the 122 for some primer. This is not a task for the weak of heart for many things can, and often do, go wrong. At first I was very hesitant to pick up and piece of sandpaper and participate in the fun for fear of messing up many hours of work. It took me a long time to realize that I too could have fun and while I don't think I messed up anything beyond repair, my confidence certainly isn't at a level where I'd do it anywhere, any time...

First task was to strengthen up the inner fenders. There is a spot just above the frame rail and just in front of the firewall that seems to be responsible for much of the stiffness in the front end. Of course, on a rusty 41 year-old car that section has been subject to much flexing, twisting and tearing. First we welded up the tears and then welded panels of 14 gauge steel over top to give it more strength than it ever had from the factory. Yes, I know this seems to be somewhat of a theme with this car...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16188-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+002.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16192-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+003.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16195-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+004.jpg

That task completed, it was time to get slinging some mud...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16213-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+010.jpg

And then most of it was sanded off...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16216-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+011.jpg

This was repeated many times until the panel was correct. While we used a significant amount of mud, most of it ended up in powder on the floor. I checked with a small and relatively weak magnet and it will stick anywhere we've done any repair work. We sanded, shaped, mudded, sanded and shaped until our arms felt like they would fall off. Finally we got to the point where it was time to don the gas mask, fill the paint gun and spray some primer. Here is the result...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16219-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+012.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16222-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+013.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16225-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+014.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16231-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+016.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16240-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+019.jpg

I think this was the toughest panel of the bunch. I worked for a long time to get it straight...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16249-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+022.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16252-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+023.jpg

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16255-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+024.jpg

And our chosen weapons of mass destruction...

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/16258-1/Oct+27+2008++122+Gets+Primer+025.jpg

Keep in mind, the primered spots are not ready for paint just yet. There are still some tiny nicks and scratches that must be filled with spot putty and then some hi-build primer to help blend in things. The whole car will be sanded down to the original blue paint and then primed and sanded again. The porous surface of the body filler soaks up the primer so it looks like an uneven surface. It's not. Craig has done a mighty impressive job of getting everything straight...

[YLD244]

looking good mate.
great to see some progress.

[Volvokid]

Nice work dad, looks great.....but next time, if you need help....pull me out of the basement please :-P

[letsrun97z]

jw i didnt see you say you were going to seal it, i used the PCL 711/Qt R-T-S Sealer and got no blead threw, ive used several layers of primer before until it looked perfect and got my base coat on and you could see the bondo spot

[Mark]

Good to see some progress! Looking good Dale.

M.

[GrandmaSideways]

Sweet Dale.
What's happening with front ends?
If I recall you planned on putting the fibreglass front on this car, and putting this front end on your 123GT?

[RedFridge]

I love your car.

Great thread.

[PRVersion]

Was a bit more common in '67 than it is today, that's for sure. I think the only good lead guys can be found in SoCal now.

yah a lot of custom rod guys still do it, it's definitely an art, and a dying one at that. but it's nice because it will never absorb water like bondo can...

[growley]

Looks great. Can't wait to see the finished product. What did you do about the rusty cavities, such as inside the rocker panels and other places you can't exactly cut off?