• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

The New Three

towerymt

the real Towery
Joined
Sep 18, 2002
Location
VA, USA
Started with a solid 3" downpipe, 3" PaceSetter flex section, no-name 3" v-band, Dynomax bullet muffler, two 4' sections of aluminized 3" pipe, and a 3" Catco cat. It took about 6-7hr to mark, cut, grind, wire-wheel, belt-sand, fit, tack, support, adjust, weld, and hang the exhaust. It didn't bang or clunk once on the drive home (~2hr), yet it has very good ground clearance. With a cat in place, I hope to pass emissions in January.

Here's what we did all day Saturday:

1. Cut off the old, smashed flex section.
2. Cut out the vertical section and put in a new flex with a v-band at the bottom.
3. Cut end of downpipe off to place cat immediately after the 2nd bend in the downpipe. It's forward of the stock location, but fits better because it's not up against the trans cross member.
4. Cut short piece to go after the cat.
5. Take 4' section of pipe and wedge the end that meets the cat to direct it towards the center of the car. Cut two notches to create slight bends in the pipe to hug close to the floor.
6. Tack the muffler in place.
7. Size up the two 45? bends that follow around the side of the gas tank and mark them.
8. Cut and tack short piece after muffler to make the 45s hit right.
9. Raise axle ~1" and support on passengers side to build exhaust so it hits the axle at droop.
10. Wedge a few ends of pipes to get the angles right.
11. Cut tailpipe section to length and wedge the end to angle it slightly away from the spare tire well.
12. Tack on tailpipe. Tack on turn-down tip that was cut from a damaged 90? that was part of the original downpipe.
13. From the v-band, drop the full exhaust for welding on the bench.
14. Reinstall exhaust and build a center hanger at the front of the muffler and at the tailpipe. Still might need to add a hanger up front to take some weight off the flex pipe.
15. Wire brush the welds as best as possible and shoot a quick coat of high temp spray paint. Eventually I'll paint the whole exhaust black after the cat. This was very effective at preventing rust on my previous welded exhaust.
16. Start car and immediately worry that it's too loud...and it's only idling. :lol:

On the drive home we realized that it's loud outside the car, but at cruise it's actually not bad at all inside the car. No droning or buzzing at all at steady RPM. It's loud and deep at low RPM acceleration with a slight buzz passing 2500RPM. Plenty of popping when I let off the gas, but it is muffled so it's nothing like a gun shot backfire. Similar to my old side exit single-muffler exhaust in that respect, but the 3" pipe does make it more noticable. So far I like it a lot.
 
The downpipe.
MVC-004F_dp.jpg

Cat and mid pipe.
MVC-005F_cat.jpg

Muffler.
MVC-007F_muffler.jpg

Ample ground clearance.
MVC-008F_clear.jpg

The stealth tip, unapproved by mikeP.
MVC-010F_tip.jpg
 
Thanks to Rob for helping with a lot of the fabrication, and mikeP for welding and stuff. I owe you about a hundred apple pastries.

MVC-014F_sig.jpg
 
I'd like to see a cop crawl around on the ground just to see if theres a name on the exhaust. I somehow doubt that they would do that.
 
The melting was from a tailpipe that was pressed against the bumper, extending 1" beyond the bumper. It was good for keeping the interior quiet, but bad for putting a ring on long pants or a leg. The turn-down came out just how I wanted. I like the angle, and it's just shy of the edge of the bumper so it doesn't stick out.
 
Looks good. How did you find so much ground clearance? Lol, my 3 in exhaust hangs way too low...
Where the pipe goes under the trans cross member, there was about 1/2" clearance. The long piece of pipe between the cat and the muffler was notched, bent, and welded so it would follow the floor closely. Instead of going straight back from the cat (like this), the pipe was angled towards the driveshaft so it could go directly under the driveshaft support bracket at the highest point on the floor. The 45?s around the gas tank had to be very precise to fit between the tank and the spare tire well. I don't have the triangle pieces next to the gas tank, which would further reduce clearance. Here's ben's system without the triangles after modifying the pipe around the gas tank: http://www.pbase.com/blkaplan/image/64008876

Here's ben's exhaust before he fixed it. The under-axle section actually sparked on the road on really big bumps. You shouldn't see daylight between the exhaust and the ground.



If the downpipe is too long, it throws off everything. Here is his revised downpipe. Notice how it stays tighter to the body and has an angle cut just before the cat.

http://www.pbase.com/blkaplan/image/64008870
http://www.pbase.com/blkaplan/image/64008878

I decided to put the v-band on the vertical section of the downpipe because it's likely to drag if it's along the bottom. It can't be tucked up close to the floor just because of the diameter. Here's a good profile shot of Rob's car to show the location of the v-bands on either end of the cat that eventually broke (or were severely damaged) after dragging on just about anything, mostly speed bumps and ridges at parking lot entries.

wdcr_06_4_sm_026.sized.jpg


The two dots below the front fender are the v-bands, then there's an upward bend to the muffler (beneath the white square on the door), then the pipe goes to a 90? out the passengers side (seen below the "S"). With the cat and v-bands removed, I don't think ground clearance is an issue anymore.
 
15. Wire brush the welds as best as possible and shoot a quick coat of high temp spray paint. Eventually I'll paint the whole exhaust black after the cat. This was very effective at preventing rust on my previous welded exhaust.

Dont worry too much about rust.
Exhausts usually rust from the inside out, so painting the outside is just for looks.
 
Back
Top