500dollar744ti
12-14-2007, 02:07 PM
Standard Installation
(Runs spark output from Fidle Pin 30)
The objective of this article is to successfully assist those wanting a hassle free approach to install to MSnS-E on a LH2.2/EZK117 car or make plug and play adapters.
This procedure is a guaranteed way to convert your 1988-1989 740 Turbo to MSnS-E! If you have a 1985-1987 740/760 Turbo you will have to use good judgement in deciding if you want to do it this way due to the failure rate of the insulation on a stock harness. For those running any sort of +T setup using LH2.2/EZK117 computers from a 700 Turbo in their car, this will be a very helpful guide in converting to Megasquirt but since you swapped in stock parts from another car to make yours turbo I cannot guarantee anything.
This diagram utilizes the stock wiring harness in a 740 Turbo to install the MSnS-E you bought from Benflynn. You must be using the stock EZK117 distributor, 850 TPS sensor, GM IAT sensor installed before turbo inlet, stock volvo coolant temperature sensor AND a Saab 139 ignitor. A stock 124 ignitor can be used but they are not dwell smart and using the Saab module is what this is designed for.
I spent A LOT of time making this and I purposely kept the diagram at a high resolution to make it easy on the eyes, so get out your beers or whatever keeps you happy and follow these steps!
*See instructions at bottom of this post for adding idle control. Do not attempt to add idle control before installing a TIP122 transistor at Q5 inside the MS box. If you have done this and wish to add MS idle control use the diagram under idle control at the bottom accordingly!*
<a href="http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/?action=view¤t=lh22_msns.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/th_lh22_msns.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Wire from the DB37 connector to LH/EZK harness as outlined in the picture, there is no reason for me to explain it because I will outline anything that would be abnormal to wiring something like say an aftermarket stereo. You can cut your stock harness and splice in that way. You can also go to the junkyard and pick up an LH2.2 and EZK117 box to take apart and make adapters concealing all your wiring, that's how I did it.
1) Pin 1 from the existing AMM connector is already grounded for you and it goes to ground on the IAT sensor.
2) Pin 6 on your existing AMM connector is the signal line for the IAT sensor going to MS.
3) Go into the fusebox and remove the brown wire that supplies power to Fuse #1, splice it into another power wire that is on switched 12v from the ignition switch when it is in the run (II) position. Make sure whatever source you use is fused, (I used the blue/red feed going to the fuse directly below Fuse #1 because that is switched 12v) This is VERY important, if you skip this step your fuel pump will run at all times when the key is off and cause horrible flooding in the cylinders.
4) The stock overpressure switch remains in place so if you want to use it, leave it there, if you have not already bypassed it and don't want to use it, do it now.
5) Pin 1 of the IAC is TPS signal. (IAC is not used here, adjust idle with thumbscrew on throttle body!) This leaves you with two pins running to the IAC connector if you wish to add the bosch 2-wire IAC in the future.
6) Pin 2 of the stock TPS needs to be removed, next move wire from IAC pin 1 (step 5) to this hole, do it whatever way pleases you, I used a black wire and covered it because that looks nice.
7) Swap the wire that was originally in TPS pin 2 here (empty hole for pin 3). IT HAS BEEN FOUND THAT DEPENDING ON YOUR TPS CLOCKING PINS 1 & 3 MAY NEED TO BE SWITCHED IN ORDER TO OBTAIN CORRECT TPS SIGNAL!
8) EZK box- Volvo has already run the wires you need to go from the EZK connector to the LH2.2 connector so this makes things simpler!
9) This pin is your WB02 input to megasquirt, it is the little jumper in the harness next to the LH box. It is a simple spade connector and I used it because it makes wiring O2 output to the adapter wiring easy. If you want to use your STOCK O2 sensor, MS pin 23 will need to go to LH pin 20 instead of 19 which is where i have it in the pinout.
10) EZK jumper wire from pin 8 to 24, redirects dizzy signal line to megasquirt using the stock wires.
11) Jump pin 6 to 4 with 10 ohm resistor inline, supplies dizzy power using stock wires. I did this all inside an old EZK box but drew the line outside because it is easier to see.
12) Jump pins 12/10 to pin 20 to supply ground for the dizzy and knock sensor. I do not have a knock sensor wired to MS but if i ever choose to, this will already have it grounded for me.
13) Jump pin 17 to 16, this redirects ignitor module signal back to MS.
14) Pin 5 needs to be moved to pin 6 when using a Saab 139.
15) Saab (Bosch) 139 module, get one from a 900/9000 turbo, it's located on the driver side fender near the strut tower.
WELL, I guess that is it then, if you do this and load a decent base map with trigger and ReqFuel changed for your setup, the car will start!
SEE I am not as dumb as I look, please critique this, I'm sure some things need to be edited or questions answered!
I HOPE that this helps. :-P
Idle Control Circuit Added
(Fidle Pin 30 used for idle control and spark output on Pin 25)
Here is the diagram updated for those who wish to use Megasquirt idle control.
You must install a TIP122 in place of Q5 per Ms1-Extra manuals before proceeding.
You will find the instructions for modifying the Q5 transistor here: http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#Fidle
If these instructions go way over your head, don't worry, just use the standard install above and upgrade to idle control later.
<a href="http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/?action=view¤t=ms_lh22_idle.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/th_ms_lh22_idle.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
16) 2-wire idle control valve from LH2.4 car. Currently your LH2.2 car will have a 3 wire connector here. You have already stolen one of the pins to use on your 850 TPS senser per instructions for standard install. This leaves you with two pins. One of the pins supplys power to the idle valve (it is already set up to do so), the other pin goes to MS for grounding the signal. You will need to swap a 2 pin Bosch connector in place of the 3 wire connector. Pin 1 of the 2.4 valve is power, pin 2 of the 2.4 valve is the wire going to MS. If you have re-pinned the wires on the MS box so that MS pin 25 now is spark and MS pin 30 goes to the idle valve this should all work nicely.
Be sure to change your settings in Megatune so SparkA is on Led17 and Fidle output is idle control.
(Runs spark output from Fidle Pin 30)
The objective of this article is to successfully assist those wanting a hassle free approach to install to MSnS-E on a LH2.2/EZK117 car or make plug and play adapters.
This procedure is a guaranteed way to convert your 1988-1989 740 Turbo to MSnS-E! If you have a 1985-1987 740/760 Turbo you will have to use good judgement in deciding if you want to do it this way due to the failure rate of the insulation on a stock harness. For those running any sort of +T setup using LH2.2/EZK117 computers from a 700 Turbo in their car, this will be a very helpful guide in converting to Megasquirt but since you swapped in stock parts from another car to make yours turbo I cannot guarantee anything.
This diagram utilizes the stock wiring harness in a 740 Turbo to install the MSnS-E you bought from Benflynn. You must be using the stock EZK117 distributor, 850 TPS sensor, GM IAT sensor installed before turbo inlet, stock volvo coolant temperature sensor AND a Saab 139 ignitor. A stock 124 ignitor can be used but they are not dwell smart and using the Saab module is what this is designed for.
I spent A LOT of time making this and I purposely kept the diagram at a high resolution to make it easy on the eyes, so get out your beers or whatever keeps you happy and follow these steps!
*See instructions at bottom of this post for adding idle control. Do not attempt to add idle control before installing a TIP122 transistor at Q5 inside the MS box. If you have done this and wish to add MS idle control use the diagram under idle control at the bottom accordingly!*
<a href="http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/?action=view¤t=lh22_msns.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/th_lh22_msns.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Wire from the DB37 connector to LH/EZK harness as outlined in the picture, there is no reason for me to explain it because I will outline anything that would be abnormal to wiring something like say an aftermarket stereo. You can cut your stock harness and splice in that way. You can also go to the junkyard and pick up an LH2.2 and EZK117 box to take apart and make adapters concealing all your wiring, that's how I did it.
1) Pin 1 from the existing AMM connector is already grounded for you and it goes to ground on the IAT sensor.
2) Pin 6 on your existing AMM connector is the signal line for the IAT sensor going to MS.
3) Go into the fusebox and remove the brown wire that supplies power to Fuse #1, splice it into another power wire that is on switched 12v from the ignition switch when it is in the run (II) position. Make sure whatever source you use is fused, (I used the blue/red feed going to the fuse directly below Fuse #1 because that is switched 12v) This is VERY important, if you skip this step your fuel pump will run at all times when the key is off and cause horrible flooding in the cylinders.
4) The stock overpressure switch remains in place so if you want to use it, leave it there, if you have not already bypassed it and don't want to use it, do it now.
5) Pin 1 of the IAC is TPS signal. (IAC is not used here, adjust idle with thumbscrew on throttle body!) This leaves you with two pins running to the IAC connector if you wish to add the bosch 2-wire IAC in the future.
6) Pin 2 of the stock TPS needs to be removed, next move wire from IAC pin 1 (step 5) to this hole, do it whatever way pleases you, I used a black wire and covered it because that looks nice.
7) Swap the wire that was originally in TPS pin 2 here (empty hole for pin 3). IT HAS BEEN FOUND THAT DEPENDING ON YOUR TPS CLOCKING PINS 1 & 3 MAY NEED TO BE SWITCHED IN ORDER TO OBTAIN CORRECT TPS SIGNAL!
8) EZK box- Volvo has already run the wires you need to go from the EZK connector to the LH2.2 connector so this makes things simpler!
9) This pin is your WB02 input to megasquirt, it is the little jumper in the harness next to the LH box. It is a simple spade connector and I used it because it makes wiring O2 output to the adapter wiring easy. If you want to use your STOCK O2 sensor, MS pin 23 will need to go to LH pin 20 instead of 19 which is where i have it in the pinout.
10) EZK jumper wire from pin 8 to 24, redirects dizzy signal line to megasquirt using the stock wires.
11) Jump pin 6 to 4 with 10 ohm resistor inline, supplies dizzy power using stock wires. I did this all inside an old EZK box but drew the line outside because it is easier to see.
12) Jump pins 12/10 to pin 20 to supply ground for the dizzy and knock sensor. I do not have a knock sensor wired to MS but if i ever choose to, this will already have it grounded for me.
13) Jump pin 17 to 16, this redirects ignitor module signal back to MS.
14) Pin 5 needs to be moved to pin 6 when using a Saab 139.
15) Saab (Bosch) 139 module, get one from a 900/9000 turbo, it's located on the driver side fender near the strut tower.
WELL, I guess that is it then, if you do this and load a decent base map with trigger and ReqFuel changed for your setup, the car will start!
SEE I am not as dumb as I look, please critique this, I'm sure some things need to be edited or questions answered!
I HOPE that this helps. :-P
Idle Control Circuit Added
(Fidle Pin 30 used for idle control and spark output on Pin 25)
Here is the diagram updated for those who wish to use Megasquirt idle control.
You must install a TIP122 in place of Q5 per Ms1-Extra manuals before proceeding.
You will find the instructions for modifying the Q5 transistor here: http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Hardware_Manual.htm#Fidle
If these instructions go way over your head, don't worry, just use the standard install above and upgrade to idle control later.
<a href="http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/?action=view¤t=ms_lh22_idle.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm104/promise383/th_ms_lh22_idle.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
16) 2-wire idle control valve from LH2.4 car. Currently your LH2.2 car will have a 3 wire connector here. You have already stolen one of the pins to use on your 850 TPS senser per instructions for standard install. This leaves you with two pins. One of the pins supplys power to the idle valve (it is already set up to do so), the other pin goes to MS for grounding the signal. You will need to swap a 2 pin Bosch connector in place of the 3 wire connector. Pin 1 of the 2.4 valve is power, pin 2 of the 2.4 valve is the wire going to MS. If you have re-pinned the wires on the MS box so that MS pin 25 now is spark and MS pin 30 goes to the idle valve this should all work nicely.
Be sure to change your settings in Megatune so SparkA is on Led17 and Fidle output is idle control.