reading the damn megamanual.

[DecalServiceBrett]

I don't want to repeat what happened last time. Can anyone give me pointers on tuning. I am trying to read the megamanual but without the laptop and someone in front of me giving me pointers i am stuck in the water.

It is simply too much comprehension and lack of confidence on my part.

I have a wb02, and msns 1 v2.2

Where do i start?

Afr's are 10 at idle. I'll post MSQ and settings tommorow.

[dbh86]

Know what affects your fuel. Know how to read your afr. Learn how to log.

I still need to learn the last one.

Give me a call tomorrow afternoon if you want to do the squirters.

[MrBill]

I really dont care for the whole "logging" thing unless there is some sort of problem or you would like your tune critiqued by others.

Turn off accel enrichment so your AFRs aren't skewed by any fuel enrichments.

Pretty much, go to the tuning window, press "g" so the dot follows the current cell, and press *shift up* or *shift down*

Once the car runs normally and stuff, start to tune the accel enrichments and all that jazzy stuff (not there yet lolz)

[Sinbad the Sailor]

You can go the easy way and turn on auto tune. Or you could log a run and use the log correction tool. That is what I did.

[740ATL]

If you're going to tune manually, you will have a very hard time unless you have someone with you. The only manual tuning you can reliably do on your own is getting the idle and no-load afr's close. And I'm not talking sitting and revving the engine like mad... hold the rpm fixed, get the afr correct.

Second, you need to start with a fuel map that's at least close. Assuming the ms hasn't been ghettoed together physically in your car and configuration wise, you won't have to worry about things breaking in addition to tuning. Get a map. Get a spark map too. And don't be stupid... if you have 9.8:1 CR and use someone's map that had 8:1 CR, you will blow up your car. Can't get a map? Ask. Let MS generate one. Enter the following settings... 140ci, idle rpm 800, idle map 30, torque 300, torque rpm 3000, torque map 250, hp 270, hp rpm 5000, hp map 250. Will this be perfect? No. Will it get you running? absolutely. Will you have to change it? Yes.

One more thing. I don't care for the resolution the table generator gives. If you plan on living in boost land, you don't need 15 bins for idle and cruise, and 1 bin left over for boost. Map bins 250 225 200 180 160 140 105 95 75 60 45 25
rpms bins 600 1100 1600 2200 2800 3400 4000 4600 5200 5800 6400 7000.

Read this article by Matt Dupuis on narrowband tuning (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=27566). Not that you're going to use a nb sensor to tune, but what Matt has written is excellent for tuning basics. Pay particular attention on "how to get a good datalog".... you'll be doing this because you WILL be datalogging.

Download megalogviewer and familiarize yourself with it. With a good datalog open, and the msq you just used, open up VE Analyzer. Most important thing here is to get the AFR table close to where it should be. For starters, pick afr 1. Idle-80kpa should be 14.7, 80-100 should tail drop to 14.1, 100-110-150 should drop 13.8-13.5-12.9. You will not be tuning anything above that for now. Make sure your wastegate is set to 5-8psi tops.

Get a good datalog. Hopefully one in which you've covered lots of afr bins, nice sloooooow accelerations from 2000-5500 in all load ranges. In other words, start in a gear that will let you do 2500rpm and try to accelerate to 5500 rpm while keeping the map at 40kpa... do the same thing at 50kpa, then 60, then 70, you get the picture. You ARE NOT TUNING BOOST in the first datalog. Make damn sure your ego settings are according to what's recommended or the log will be worthless.

Stop the car, run the ve analyzer, and you should notice major changes. Accept the changes, burn it to the ECU and go for another drive... repeat the long slow accelerations... this time, you can start to push a little harder. BUT NOT CRAZY! run ve analyzer, accept changes, burn to ecu, and go again. At this point, your afr's across the rev range should be pretty damn close to where they should be. If they're not, something else is wrong... injectors, wiring, ignition, etc.

Then, push it a little harder... make sure you're listening for knock and back off the throttle if you hear anything.

Remember... and this is the most important thing... your fuel map will change to something that looks funny... especially when you start tuning the higher maps... It should look like there is a "ball" of really high VE numbers centered around 3000-3500 RPM. Those VE numbers will actually tail off towards higher rpm. This is ok... don't change it. Your fuel usage is greatest around the torque peak... guess what... 8v redlblocks typically have a torque peak around 3000rpm.

keep reading and have fun.

Mike

[DecalServiceBrett]

Thank you all :)

I saved this page and will get cracking once my laptop gets fully charged!

[DecalServiceBrett]

http://www.sendspace.com/file/q07lh2

is my msq.

i have to bump the req fuel down a few points - kyote put it up on the last ms shennanigan.

here we go!

[towerymt]

.

I copied this post to a new thread and stuck it to the top. With no sticky topics in this forum, I think it's time to start accumulating tips.

[The Aspirator]

Good call Towery! If you're going to keep an eye on this forum all the time then you could lock the new thread and only add in the informative posts yourself.

Mike, perfect post, I agree 100%. Although I don't datalog and VE analyze as often as I should, whenever I do it I'm always amazed at how accurate things get. Some bins get tweaked way out of wack so I have to look at the 3d map and do minor changes to make everything look "smooth".

I checked out your msq, you don't have 8 cylinders and 8 injectors, so in your constants page dump that down to 4. Your req fuel also seems silly high. Mine is 3.6/3.6, with 1squirt simultaneous, but I've jacked my fuel VE values way up to compensate for such a low req-fuel, it's supposed to result in a higher resolution map. Like my fuel map goes from 82 to 222, whereas yours goes from 39-100. No big deal either way.

10:1 at idle is way rich. My car likes high 11's or low 12's for cold idle, and high 12's to high 13's for hot idle. Get that set first, then you can compare what the rest of your 3d map looks like in relation to the few cells at idle that you know are accurate. After that, rev it a bit and see if it bogs or dies. Then go ahead with Mike's suggestions above!

Basic guidelines:
Idle, 13's.
Cruise 3000rpm constant speed, 14's
2-5psi light load, mid to low 13's.
5-10psi full load, high 12's.
10+psi mid to low 12's or richer depending on what you prefer.

High 11's works best for me at 11-15psi, it lets me keep the ignition timing in there and leaves room for fluctuations in air temp. I.E. on a really cold night the air is denser, so your mixture might lean out a bit, and I live in such a changing climate that I like having the room for error. If you do all your tuning on a cold night the car will feel extremely fast and you'll get away with a really aggressive timing map (lots of advance), but the next day when it's boiling hot out it might ping like a mofo. Also last year I learned a great lesson about tuning in different gears (manual). I like to do backroad tuning in farming type areas where the speed limits are usually just 35mph, and I don't like to be too much of a nuisance to the locals, so one day I tuned a whole new map by hand just keeping the car in 2nd gear. That way I could take it way down low, load it up and hold it to 6500rpm, without even breaking 60mph. I thought it was great.

Next day I took it on the freeway and jumped on it, ping ping ping ping! Humm, I wonder why dyno's always operate in 4th gear...... :-P. So now whenever I get the chance I try to do midnight freeway tuning in 4th gear, or 3rd if I think the fuzz is hiding everywhere. Doing it all in 4th gear left me with the safest all around tune, and you're IN the gear for alot longer than you are when in 2nd, so the tune can be more accurate. Or I'll use 4th gear for all tuning between 1500rpm and say 4500 (to keep the speeds legal-ish), then tune 4500+ (past the torque peak so it has a lower detonation threshold) in 3rd gear.

I've done probably 85% of my tuning all on my own, either datalogging or with the laptop on the passenger seat and my fingers of shift up/down. But I'll tell ya, tuning with a friend is 1000x easier! Toss your friend the keys and tell him what to do, that way YOU can concentrate on the laptop and get a good feel for what does what, without the adrenaline of being behind the wheel to mess with your senses. Alot of times when I'm in the passenger seat I'm staring at the laptop so much that when I say "floor it in 4th from 2500", we're actually in a heap of traffic or driving beside a cop :lol:. That's why the driver has to analyze your requests before he executes them.

Ohh, and to add to what Mike said about the MegaLogViewer, here is my new favorite trick. Works great for freeway pulls and dyno runs! In MegaTune start a log, then minimize the screen. Open up Megalogviewer and go File-Trail live datalog. It'll literally stream the live datalog in to the program! It's soooooo incredibly useful for watching REAL TIME boost levels if you're tuning an ebc/mbc, or for watching your AFR levels, or your spark angle. You can do a hard full pull in 3rd gear and look back on it and say "Okay the boost started at 14psi at 3000, then steadily dumped down to 8psi by redline... sucky." And you can SEE your AFR across the rev range, you want a flat line, whatever number you choose that to be.

As a matter of fact, here's one of my full 4th gear datalogs, from 2200 right up to 6100. My TPS calcs are wrong so that's not 53%, but probably closer to 100%. Notice the flat AFR line and the flat boost/map line (megasquirt boost controller for teh freaking win).

John

http://www.cravingboost.com/cars/megasquirt07.gif

[DecalServiceBrett]

http://www.sendspace.com/file/zr7auj

updated msq.

my lc-1 just stopped working on me, so i have to go fix that real quick like.

[DecalServiceBrett]

and add John's post to the msns tuning post as well, Mike.

[740ATL]

http://www.sendspace.com/file/zr7auj

updated msq.

my lc-1 just stopped working on me, so i have to go fix that real quick like.

You do know you have your wideband switchpoint set to 0.5v instead of 2.5 volts right?

That and your configuration settings read the Tech Edge Linear wideband unit selected instead of the LC-1 right?

:)

Remember... your fuel map shouldn't have the highest VE numbers to the far right. Your engine doesn't have the highest fuel usage at 6000rpm unless that's where your torque peak is... your max fuel usage is going to be around your torque peak... or 3000rpm.... once you start logging your VE numbers should "grow" to a big ball around 3000rpm, and actually tail off at higher MAP/RPM bins...