Anti seize on spark plugs?

[icebrick]

I am installing new spark plugs. I have never used anti-seize on plugs before. Is there any issue with proper grounding with anti-seize?

[pooprah]

no, use it or have fun rethreading your spark plug hole.

[JimG]

Yup - what pooprah said. To avoid misthreading plugs I use a 6" length of fuel tubing as a "starter wrench". It should have a snug over the plug connector. Get it started before throwing the ole plug socket on.

[HonestJhon]

and you dont need much anti seize on there to work.


i bought one of those jars they sell at the auto parts store, silver based or what have you.


freaking jar doesnt look like its been used much but its been used for MANY spark plug changes, brake jobs, and various jobs where anti seizing is ideal.

[Crazychopstick]

and you dont need much anti seize on there to work.


i bought one of those jars they sell at the auto parts store, silver based or what have you.


freaking jar doesnt look like its been used much but its been used for MANY spark plug changes, brake jobs, and various jobs where anti seizing is ideal.

Waterpump and O2 sensor changes make good use of it too.

[icebrick]

I'm sold! :)

[2fast242gt]

use a impact gun.

[amargill19?]

i've replaced plugs and not used anti sieze on a couple of occasions,

didn't have any scary issues though.

I invested in a big jar of copper anti-sieze, and just take a dip with a finger and smear a wee bit on the plugs threads. Works great.

[745 TurboGreasel]

Less is more...
a dab big enough to intersect the first 3 threads is enough.
If you get some on you, it will be on the next 10 things you touch, and you may get in trouble:oogle:

[icebrick]

use a impact gun.

There's no way mine will fit in there.

[ikyikthe1st]

There's no way mine will fit in there.

he was joking

[pooprah]

oh god! :lol: 15 ft pnds is all you need i can tourque a chick with my dick at 40 ft pnds

[2fast242gt]

There's no way mine will fit in there. o god! you didnt really attempt this!?:omg: sorry i shoulda made my BS a little more clear! LOL! but you should always put a little antiseize on the tip of the electrode... lol

[2manyturbos]

o god! you didnt really attempt this!?:omg: sorry i shoulda made my BS a little more clear! LOL! but you should always put a little antiseize on the tip of the electrode... lol

Save the humor for the off topic forum. There are plenty of people with very little experience that may follow your advice, not realizing you are joking. It has happened many times on these types of forums.

[suterman]

I have never used antiseize copper grease) on plug and never had a problem, just use finger to start the plug in the thread, and when removing, be careful on number 4.

I have had about 3 tubes of the stuff, a little 3 inch tube, like toothpaste, always lose them before they run out.

[2manyturbos]

Not a good example to set. I have never installed a spark plug in an aluminum head without anti-seize compound. I have had the unfortunate luck of buying a few Volvos that had plugs installed without anti-seize compound. One pulled all the threads out of #4 on its way out. Several others pulled a few threads on their way out. I have a 14mm plug tap to correct the threads when this happens. You have steel against aluminum. A really bad combination from a corrosion standpoint. To top it off, you run an electric current across the interface.

[suterman]

Ok you win:)

use copper grease.

[icebrick]

There's no way mine will fit in there.

OK, I was just kidding about the torque wrench part.
I really did want to know about anti-seize on plug threads though, it's one of the few parts I never used it on, (anti-seize is a necessity when you live in the rust belt).

[RobSmith]

I use copperslip too and always torque them to 15ft/lb
New plugs feel like they are stripping. This is normal and they eventually tighten once the sealing ring has squashed enough.
Make sure the small threaded plug adapter thing is screwed tight onto the insulator end of each plug. The plug lead clips on these and if they are not tight they come loose, the lead comes free and cause misfires. Some plugs do not have these though.

Rob

[MikeSr.]

GM has a TSB regarding the use of anti-seize on spark plugs. The thin film actually acts as a heat barrier, interfering with the transfer of spark plug heat to the head, which acts as a heat sink. Plugs run hotter,and have less plug life.
I use a thread chaser with a little oil on it before inserting new plugs. This helps the threads stay nice and clean so the new plugs can get a grip. The real culprit is corrosion due to the contact of dissimilar metals between the plug and head. Also- frequently plugs are overtightened, causing stripping. When i install a plug, I use a plug starter and always rotate counter-clockwise first, which seats the threads,then tighten clockwise by hand only, then lightly torque.

[240on280]

I don't want to get into the compound/no compound debate but my advice is always to tighten spark-plugs by hand until they are tight (I use a spark plug socket on a short extension with no bar) and then use a torque wrench to get it to the correct torque. The easiest way to cross-thread and strip spark plug threads is to screw the plugs in with a ratchet to save time.