replacing a 230f with a 940ft

[derosa]

This is basically what I've discovered so far, the project isn't finished yet so there's still room for error. I'm gonna start with part one which covers what to keep.
A number of parts should be saved from the old engine that can be or need to be transfered to the new engine.
Items that need to be saved include
1. distributer, this is held to the block by one bolt and simply pulls out once the bolt has been removed.
2. the drive shaft for the distributer (name?), check the new engine first however, in the spot where your old distributer would be on the new engine is a plug, this can be knocked out with a mallet, a screw driver and a LIGHT tap. If you can see splines on the shaft your in luck and the new distributer can go right in. Fisrt make sure the engine in set to top dead center TDC and that the distributer in pointing to the first spark plug wire and install. If there are no splines removal of the old shaft from your engine is required. To do this the engine seems to have to be out of the vehicle, remove the timing belt cover, the gear on the shaft and the gear next to it (name?), this is best done by leaving the timing belt on, loosening the bolts for both gears and then remove the timing belt. Otherwise a 125.00 tool is needed from volvo which my mechanic was kind enough to lend me. With both gears removed the back of the timing belt cover can be pulled off and you will see a silver cover plate. This is held on with 6 bolts on the front and two on the bottom that also keep the oil pan on. At this point the only thing holding the shaft in is the drive gear for the oil pump, this can be seen by removing the breather box that your flame trap is connected to, the turbo has the box but not the flame trap. this lets you see the oil pump drive gear. With luck by turning the drive shaft the opposite direction its supposed to go while pushing in on it to keep it from popping out will force the oil pump gear up, a decent magnet can pull it the rest of the way out. Note this piece has to come out to get the drive shaft out. This is probably the hardest part to get at that needs to be saved.
3. The engine mounting brackets attached to the engine, the 940, not certain of the 740, use a different mounting set up, despite the fact that these look like they won't fit on the engine at first they do. Make sure you keep the bolts that hold them on as well, I discovered that the bolts that hold the 940 mounts on are just the tiniest bit longer but it makes all the difference in the world.
4. The power steering pump, though I'm not completely certain of this yet it does seem to be the case. The 940 has the steering pump and altinator in the opposite locations from the 240. This means that the hoses that go to the pump are on the opposite side of the vehicle so the altinator and steering pump need to be switched to the same sides they were on on the old engine. The altinator switched right over, no big deal, again not exactly certain on the pump but I'll know in a few days.
Things you may want to save
1. the old intake manifold, after removal of the new one to run wires I discovered there's no cold start injector, this means that the new computer doesn't need it but that doesn't mean you don't want it.
2. the cold start injector :roll: , obviously if you're saving the old manifold you need the old injector to work with it. The bonuses of this is that your old wiring harness is set up to work with it, T'ing into the power line will allow it to be used to pump higher boost later on, look up 5th injector in the search to find out ways of setting this up.
Everything else you need should come with the new engine, take lots of pictures as you go and things won't get too messed up.

[Dr. Volvo]

Great article!!

I just want to add a few things.

[quote:fafe29b833]the drive shaft for the distributer (name?)[/quote:fafe29b833]
It's called the auxillary shaft, you can change this with the engine in the car just remove the radiator, but since you have both engines out at the same time it will be easiest to do this out of the car.

You also need the rear seal for the camshaft

If you want to use the wireing from the new engine (ie. you have a k-jet)
its probably easier to leave the alternator and PS-pump like on the 940/740 so you dont have to splice the wires to the alternator and it will be easier to acess later.
To fit the PS-fliud container you need the coilbracket from a '86+ 240.

[derosa]

If you leave the power steering pump in its new location how do the hoses for the power steering reach the new pump? Wiring wasn't an issue simply cause I left most of the old wiring in.

[derosa]

After messing with the power steering and the alternator it seems like a good idea to save all the mounting hardware from the old engine for the power steering, alternator and AC, the brackets are slightly different and the hoses for the steering rack will not reach to the other side unless new ones are made, I haven't bothered to check the cost of doing so. The second alternative to doing this is to leave the power steering unhooked, take a string and determine the length of belt needed to hook everything up since the belt that drives the PS pump on the 940 also drives the water pump.
To remove the old engine disconnect the engine mounts, I did this by unbolting the rubber mounts themselves, for ease of reinstalling you should remove the brackets that hold the mounts from the subframe, later when you're reinstalling the engine these will already be attached to the block and are the easiest to line up for bolting the engine in place. I chose to leave the transmission in place so that it could be mounted to the new engine and everything installed at once, I'm not certain if this was the easier way to do this or not but it worked ok for me. These diractions are for an auto, won't know till later what is required for a standard. This requires disconnecting the drive shaft, this is held together with 4 bolts, the drive shaft will have to be turned to reach all of them, to do this jack up one real wheel (making sure the e-brake is off and the transmission in in neutral) and turn the wheel. Next is the transmission mount which is two bolt, the shifter, at two of the connections for the shifter is a simple pin and lock mechanism that slides off, and the wiring for the OD and backup lamp. this should leave the transmission completely disconnected.
Well you're under the car also disconnect the exhaust at the cat.
To yank the engine a number of things have to be disconnected.
1. the radiator, some have drain bolts, mine didn't, even worse the straps attaching the lower hose were too rusted to remove, a hack saw solved the issue and took a few seconds, if the hose is new enough to reuse make the cut as close as possible to the radiator outlet, the radiator will be closer to the engine and should still fit after you add the intercooler.
2. Also disconnect the hoses to the overflow and remove the radiator, it'll be in the way when the engine comes out otherwise. Disconnect the air intake and also remove the air filter box.
3. The fuel lines are the next thing to be disconnected, these are held on by some really annoying clamps, I used pliers to simply pry them off and replaced them with regular hose clamps. There are two of them, watch out for any extra gas that might be in them.