Electric Fan Conversion

[WindowsBreakerG4]

My issue is that the fan runs (it seems) when I am on the freeway so I am trying to eliminate that, it doesn't need to run. I'd love to try that.

[badvlvo]

I will set the switch aside. If you don't come up this weekend I can give it to Scott for you.

[bcumby]

Dumb question - the temp switch in the radiator has two prongs - why two? I guess I had assumed this switch grounded through the radiator, but the more I think of it maybe I am wrong.

If one side should be hooked to ground, I assume it doesn't matter which side.

[WindowsBreakerG4]

Doesn't ground through the rad, that could cause electrolysis (which is bad). Technically that switch doesn't need power, I use mine on the ground on my relay. When it closes, it gives the relay a ground completing the circuit.

[doucheNozzle]

Yea I've been happy with the way Alden and I have the system setup on our cars.

Ground through the SAAB thingy, sender in the lower hose and power to the relay.

[Texas240]

Yea I've been happy with the way Alden and I have the system setup on our cars.

Ground through the SAAB thingy, sender in the lower hose and power to the relay.

mine is similar to this but im using the upper temp sensor in the radiator. Im in Dallas and Ive seen temps up into the 103º and the temp gauge goes slightly above center. Im loving the 940 efan relay.

[PaulSimonon]

I apologize for the basic question, but when using a 940 relay and the Saab sensor in the T-fitting will the temp sensor essentially be functioning where the ECU was before and sending the signal to ground? Am I getting this at all?

My conception is that there is one power to the relay, the harness from relay to motor can remain unchanged, and the Saab sensor will be wired from the yellow/brown wire to ground for high speed or from the green/orange wire to ground for low speed...

Are there any tradeoffs between running high or low speed?

If I am confused in my thinking, could anyone explain it to me in extremely simple terms?

[badvlvo]

I kept my e-fan on the key-on circuit and it worked fine all week including at the autocross. Still runs a little cool, so the switch will happen soon, but it's not a priority.

[Texas240]

I apologize for the basic question, but when using a 940 relay and the Saab sensor in the T-fitting will the temp sensor essentially be functioning where the ECU was before and sending the signal to ground? Am I getting this at all?

My conception is that there is one power to the relay, the harness from relay to motor can remain unchanged, and the Saab sensor will be wired from the yellow/brown wire to ground for high speed or from the green/orange wire to ground for low speed...

Are there any tradeoffs between running high or low speed?

If I am confused in my thinking, could anyone explain it to me in extremely simple terms?

Here you go:
http://i394.photobucket.com/albums/pp30/arsiegal86/c70c43d2.jpg

When using the relay and the saab temp sender, ground one terminal to the chasis and the other terminal goes to the Green/ Orange wire on the relay. That is if you want the saab sender to run the low speed.

I keep my high speed on a toggle switch in the dash on my 240 incase I see high temps in Dallas here. The low speed has kept up with 103º here. I am using the radiator temp sender on the top of the radiator which is a little to warm for me. I will be changing that soon.

[vvpete]

Here you go:
When using the relay and the saab temp sender, ground one terminal to the chasis and the other terminal goes to the Green/ Orange wire on the relay. That is if you want the saab sender to run the low speed.

I keep my high speed on a toggle switch in the dash on my 240 incase I see high temps in Dallas here. The low speed has kept up with 103º here. I am using the radiator temp sender on the top of the radiator which is a little to warm for me. I will be changing that soon.

So far my 940 e-fan has been performing great in the Dallas heat, now over 3 yrs.
I use the low speed for general engine cooling, with the upper radiator switch being the NAPA 87 deg on/82 deg off, completing ground for the main fan relay. I switch the main relay by a small 12v/10amp relay with power off the coil + wire to go on only with ignition.

The high speed fan is switched by the pressure sensor in the A/C line to go on when the A/C pressure drops at idle. This has been the best part of the whole conversion, giving me 48 deg at the vents at idle.

Also, I took out the temperature compensaion board and jumpered the pins to by-pass it. This gives you accurate temp readings. My gage is sitting at 8:30 most of the time (winter is about 7:00) and gently rises to ~9:30 then back down to 8:30 when the fan goes on. Prior to putting the lower switching NAPA switch the temp rose to nearly the bottom of the red, then came down when the fan went on.

[PaulSimonon]

Here you go:

When using the relay and the saab temp sender, ground one terminal to the chasis and the other terminal goes to the Green/ Orange wire on the relay. That is if you want the saab sender to run the low speed.

I keep my high speed on a toggle switch in the dash on my 240 incase I see high temps in Dallas here. The low speed has kept up with 103º here. I am using the radiator temp sender on the top of the radiator which is a little to warm for me. I will be changing that soon.

Thank you, the help is very much appreciated. I ought to be good to go.

[bigbret]

Got my ish wired up. 960 e fan, 92 degree temp switch in the rad wired to the low speed. High speed wired to a switch. Fan cycles twice when car is hot and it is not on too much. Very nice.

[dbarton]

Been quite a few years since I updated my original e-fan conversion info. I recently put in a big fan from a Ford T-Bird SC in my 242ti and it is a serious fan. More on it in my e-fan page: http://www.davebarton.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html, but here's what it looks like...
Dave B

http://www.davebarton.com/coolingfan-sc-7.jpg

[Mylesofsmyles]

can i see some pics of the saab fan switch in line?

it's supposed to go in the lower hose, right?

like on my radiator mount fan switch, one peg to ground, other to relay?

[doucheNozzle]

can i see some pics of the saab fan switch in line?

it's supposed to go in the lower hose, right?

like on my radiator mount fan switch, one peg to ground, other to relay?

Yup. Just cut your hose in half, stick the t-pipe in there and get a new fan switch from Amazon.

[Mylesofsmyles]

Yup. Just cut your hose in half, stick the t-pipe in there and get a new fan switch from Amazon.

right on...and can you explain to me the correlation between t-stat temp range and fan switch temp range. want this baby prepped for high temp driving, ie desert at 100+ degrees

[bigbret]

I run a 92 degree Celcius in the rad itself, and the car runs excellent. I verified head temps were exceptable with an infared thermometer. The fan is turned off at 88 degrees celcius. It will cycle three times on a hot day after I turn off the car. Current temps in Sonoma county have been 80's to 90's. This set up is real nice. I am running the 2 speed fan from a 960 with the relay. LOw speed is controlled by the temp switch. High speed is a center console mounted switch. It is nice to be able to turn on the fan in traffic or after shut down if I want to wrench sooner on a hot engine.

[bcumby]

I just completed my fan conversion with the low speed hooked up to a relay switches ground on ignition abd the high speed is hooked to the radiator temp switch.

Should I be concerned about reducing the life of the fan by running the low speed all the time when the key is on?

Btw, the 940/960 shroud and relays look like a factory install is done properly. I'm very pleased.

[Mylesofsmyles]

I run a 92 degree Celcius in the rad itself, and the car runs excellent. I verified head temps were exceptable with an infared thermometer. The fan is turned off at 88 degrees celcius. It will cycle three times on a hot day after I turn off the car. Current temps in Sonoma county have been 80's to 90's. This set up is real nice. I am running the 2 speed fan from a 960 with the relay. LOw speed is controlled by the temp switch. High speed is a center console mounted switch. It is nice to be able to turn on the fan in traffic or after shut down if I want to wrench sooner on a hot engine.

so u didn't do the saab fan switch, but instead did what I did and used a radiator mount fan switch?

[bigbret]

so u didn't do the saab fan switch, but instead did what I did and used a radiator mount fan switch?

Yep I used the rad mounted temp switch. It works great. I run a 92 degree Celsius on, 88 degree Celsius off. Works great can't complain.

[Rectilinear]

I have had problems in the past with the temp switches in the radiator. I just installed an efan on my 242 this weekend and used a relay to power up the low speed anytime the ignition is on. I have a second relay I have yet to wire that will engage high speed when the a/c is turned on, hopefully this will allow the a/c to cool better. So far, low speed is working fine by itself.

[vvpete]

right on...and can you explain to me the correlation between t-stat temp range and fan switch temp range. want this baby prepped for high temp driving, ie desert at 100+ degrees

I use an 82 deg t-stat with an 87 deg on, 82 deg off rad mount switch from NAPA and works, cycles great in the Texas heat, keeps the temp exactly at 9:00 (temp comp board by-passed) without waiver at 100 degrees, A/C on max. 3 1/2 years now on e-fan.:cool:

see post #103

[yellow95]

with my saab switch and the comp board bypassed I see about 3/4 rise before the fan kicks in. Should that concern me? It never goes to the red. Let me know your thoughts.

Gary

[UTAHGTBRICK]

with my saab switch and the comp board bypassed I see about 3/4 rise before the fan kicks in. Should that concern me? It never goes to the red. Let me know your thoughts.

Gary

too bad you didn't have an infrared thermometer, but 3/4 is more than i'd like to see. Perfect place is just a tick or two beyond halfway.

[xylopagus]

I went to O'Reilly's today to see if I could find an 87 degree temp switch, but nobody had any idea what I was talking about. They ended up selling me a "Hayden fan thermostat kit" with a relay, probe, and pigtail. It said it was adjustable from 90 - 210F, but I don't think it has an off temperature as my fan never switched off.

Do you guys just ask for a temp switch and they know what you mean (at NAPA) or do you have to specify a make/model of vehicle that happens to have an 87 on and 82 off temp switch. I think I'm going to re-wire this straight to a 40 amp relay and separate temp switch rather than use a boxed setup. I'd like to simply plug into the temp sender that's already in my radiator and wire a toggle to the interior for high speed.

[xylopagus]

So I've done some more reading. The two-blade temp. connector is a thermostat? I guess it has a set on-off temperature? This would make a whole lot of sense as I was having difficulty trying to figure out exactly what it was that I've been searching for.

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

yeah, it grounds at a certain temp, and then makes no more ground after temp has cooled off.it's a grounding switch really.

the hayden adjustable will turn off where you set it to turn off and likewise turn on with the adjust of a screw.

[bcumby]

So far my 940 e-fan has been performing great in the Dallas heat, now over 3 yrs.
I use the low speed for general engine cooling, with the upper radiator switch being the NAPA 87 deg on/82 deg off, completing ground for the main fan relay. I switch the main relay by a small 12v/10amp relay with power off the coil + wire to go on only with ignition.

The high speed fan is switched by the pressure sensor in the A/C line to go on when the A/C pressure drops at idle. This has been the best part of the whole conversion, giving me 48 deg at the vents at idle.

Also, I took out the temperature compensaion board and jumpered the pins to by-pass it. This gives you accurate temp readings. My gage is sitting at 8:30 most of the time (winter is about 7:00) and gently rises to ~9:30 then back down to 8:30 when the fan goes on. Prior to putting the lower switching NAPA switch the temp rose to nearly the bottom of the red, then came down when the fan went on.

Do you have a part number for the 87 deg on/82 deg off switch? I would like to just order it from my local parts place instead of seeking out a NAPA - unless only they have.

[WindowsBreakerG4]

Do you have a part number for the 87 deg on/82 deg off switch? I would like to just order it from my local parts place instead of seeking out a NAPA - unless only they have.

I had no luck finding it locally which is why I used amazon.

[bigbret]

Well now I have been using the dual speed 960 fan with my AC running and now I need to put in my 100 amp alt. With the car running with multiple accesories I have 12.3 volts at the Battery. I f I turn off the high speed fan and leave everything else on I got 13.4 volts att he terminals.

[mickeys240]

yea, 80 AMP's is really pushing it these days when you start running into electric fans.

I found a way to keep running my engine driven fan with my inter-cooler install on my 240.

It is the only reason why I have not upgraded mine yet.

[klr142]

all 9xx ecu's have the fan controllerEven the 240 951 ecu that my '91 came with? Is it already wired in then and I just need to find the untapped wire somewhere underhood???
I have had problems in the past with the temp switches in the radiator.Go on...?
I use an 82 deg t-stat with an 87 deg on, 82 deg off rad mount switch from NAPA and works, cycles great in the Texas heat, keeps the temp exactly at 9:00 (temp comp board by-passed) without waiver at 100 degrees, A/C on max. 3 1/2 years now on e-fan.:cool:Is your switch a push in or screw in? I have a screw in and will get a 92/87 to try out tomorrow. Whatever is in there now clicks in around 9:30 before cooling down to my 8:30 and I experience some detonation with the higher compression at light loads in the midrange(as well as going from cruise to WOT immediately). When the car's cool though(and cool outside), I don't experience any detonation. I may swap out for a 82C T-stat instead of the current 87C one, and would like to lower the temp switch to an 87/82 at that point too, if I go that route.

[tomasss]

Can someone post here dimensions of the 960 electric fan?

[klr142]

Thanks for bumping, I forgot to post my results.I have a screw in and will get a 92/87 to try out tomorrow. Whatever is in there now clicks in around 9:30 before cooling down to my 8:30 and I experience some detonation with the higher compression at light loads in the midrange(as well as going from cruise to WOT immediately). When the car's cool though(and cool outside), I don't experience any detonation. I may swap out for a 82C T-stat instead of the current 87C one, and would like to lower the temp switch to an 87/82 at that point too, if I go that route.The 92/87 screw in that I installed matched the activation temperatures of the not labeled switch that was already in there. So, I swapped in the 87/82 switch and have been running that with great success. Basically, it holds the temperature very stable near where the thermostat(87*) held the car. If the temp went up any, the fan went on, right about, or just before when it went to 9:00 on the gauge. So, quite perfect, really. The downside, if it is one, is that the fan comes on relatively often in warmer weather. Then again, if you want stable temperatures, that's how it's going to be to remain stable.

I then put in the 82* thermostat to try and reduce detonation on initial WOT, but there's still a tad if I'm not nice with the throttle. I might go back to the 87* for "increased combustion efficiency".

[fst64_v8pwr]

Thanks for all the great information. Helped me...

[bigbret]

Still chuggin along. I should switch to an 87 on 82 off switch to keep this ish cool. I read an article about bore wear in relation to cars equipped with mech-fan and E-fans, significant increase in wear on the e-fan equipped car! Going to NAPA soon.:roll:

[klr142]

I read an article about bore wear in relation to cars equipped with mech-fan and E-fans, significant increase in wear on the e-fan equipped car! Going to NAPA soon.:roll:Makes no sense in my mind.

[alujaimaantoinette]

I just started this project. putting in new radiator as well. Im using 2 relays and a 40 amp fuse off the battery. Wireing 2 fans... routing to A/C, coolent switch, and override to a toggle switch. When I first started looking at the wireing diagram I was pretty much dumbfounded but once you figure out how relays work its super simple and the results are well worth it. I wired in an electric fan in my wagon and worked way way better than the stock fan and I had no idea what I was doing. This time Im doin it factory style +1. Ill post my results after this weekend

[Coupe' de Grace]

find the fan controller mini-game
http://i38.servimg.com/u/f38/15/18/67/20/nothin10.jpg
Spal PWM v.3

controls one fan as is, add a simple relay and it controls two. easily wires to your stock temp gauge sensor and provides for AC and/or overrride switch, status lamp. wiring is the perfect length, just long enough to route everything, add some heat shrink vinyl tubing and it looks factory.

i also have one in the Chicken, another easy install.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/picture.php?albumid=66&pictureid=1036

[tomasss]

Does anyone use some kind of M14x1.5 dual temperature switch (real switch, not NTC)? I searched many brands and have found only the BMW used these, but they are little pricey...

[B-lennium]

Vw are using a 3 pole switch in there type 3 water cooled busses ('84)

CLICK (http://www.statracing.com/oem-replacement/wizard.asp?eng=DH1.9&cha=&year=1984&make=VW&model=VAN--002&category=G&part=Auxiliary+Fan+Switch)

iam not sure of the M14x1.5 thing, could be m22

[Captain Bondo]

find the fan controller mini-game


i also have one in the Chicken, another easy install.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/picture.php?albumid=66&pictureid=1036


Don't mount the controller in front of the rad though, dude.
The whole point is to draw air through the rad. ;-)



I use the later style 850 fan with the spiral blades mounted in a custom shroud, using the stock 850 2 speed controller that comes with it. Power comes straight off the alternator positive with an inline blade style fuse.

This cools 400whp with a stock Nissens rad quite well.

Speed 1 is connected to the ems to switch on at 180 degrees (170 degree t-stat)
Speed 2 is connected to the temp switch in the radiator and comes on at 200 degrees (never does, this is just a fail safe feature if the wiring or the ems output ever failed).



The 850 fan and controller is an excellent choice and cheap/reliable/strong.

[linuxman51]

Don't mount the controller in front of the rad though, dude.
The whole point is to draw air through the rad. ;-)



I use the later style 850 fan with the spiral blades mounted in a custom shroud, using the stock 850 2 speed controller that comes with it. Power comes straight off the alternator positive with an inline blade style fuse.

This cools 400whp with a stock Nissens rad quite well.

Speed 1 is connected to the ems to switch on at 180 degrees (170 degree t-stat)
Speed 2 is connected to the temp switch in the radiator and comes on at 200 degrees (never does, this is just a fail safe feature if the wiring or the ems output ever failed).
The 850 fan and controller is an excellent choice and cheap/reliable/strong.

it's the same as a 940/960 fan and controller as well. all good choices, same thing I have on mine.

[tomasss]

One more question - when my thermostat opens at 87°C, at which temperature shall the low speed of efan be activated?

[Captain Bondo]

The fan switch in 240 radiators comes on at 100c which IMO is too hot.

87c is the point at which your thermostat if fully open, cooling system is maxed out. Therefore I would set the fan to come on around 92c and see how it is. If your fan runs more than seems necessary try 97c. Keep an eye on your temp gauge of course.

You trying to keep the engine close to the t-stat value but without needlessly cycling the fan like a psycho.

I switch speed 1 on at 87c (via my engine management) but I have a colder tstat than stock. I have the 2nd speed wired up to the switch on the rad for in case things get crazy or my ems fails to switch the fan on. Speed #2 never comes on.

[WindowsBreakerG4]

As I have said before the 82/77 switch in the lower hose seems to keep these cars rock solid on the temp gauge

[Captain Bondo]

Having a fan switch temp that is lower than your thermostat temp makes no sense...

[WindowsBreakerG4]

If it's after the rad sure it does, you don't want the water coming back in at thermostat temp. Like I said it keeps temps completely consistent around town and through traffic. It's the same way the saabs ran it in "tropical" climates, I figure they probably had figured something out. Why wouldn't you want water cooler than your thermostat coming into the engine? The thermostat regulates it, not the fan.

[urbanwheeler]

Be sure to put the sensor on the bottom hose. Mine has it on the top and it turns on sporadically, like when it sits in the parking lot after driving it.

[doucheNozzle]

Be sure to put the sensor on the bottom hose. Mine has it on the top and it turns on sporadically, like when it sits in the parking lot after driving it.

Yea that's the point. Mine does too.

[Captain Bondo]

Yeah fair enough if the sensor is on the cold side it'll need a different temp, or if it's at the top of the rad.

The important thing is that the cylinder head temp (ie your gauge) operates in the appropriate range, and that may take some fiddling although there are of course some good experience based recommendations in this thread per WindowsBreaker.

Since I switch my fan based on cylinder head operating temp my numbers are different.

[WindowsBreakerG4]

Mine sits about 1/3rd of the way up maybe a little more, wideband says anything above the line idles at 14.7 :rofl: (truthfully many times this car doesn't even show anything lower than 14 on warm up)

[tomasss]

Done that on B280F 760:

http://forum.volvoklub.cz/download/file.php?id=31738
http://forum.volvoklub.cz/download/file.php?id=31739

Fan from 850, original shield. Now going to route wires, sensor etc...so pictures "in car" later...

[bigbret]

Makes no sense in my mind.

The logic was that temperatures spiked with E-Fans, and with the clutch fans they remain more stable.:nod:

[klr142]

The logic was that temperatures spiked with E-Fans, and with the clutch fans they remain more stable.:nod:Ah, I see. Well, that totally depends on your fan's temp switch...

[bigbret]

Well I run a 92c on 87c off. If I ran a cooler switch I think I would constantly have the fan on. I have checked teh temp with an infared thermometer and temps are fine when the gauge reads just past 9 oclock.

[klr142]

Well I run a 92c on 87c off. If I ran a cooler switch I think I would constantly have the fan on. I have checked teh temp with an infared thermometer and temps are fine when the gauge reads just past 9 oclock.Yeah, that temp would work well with most cars and 87 deg. thermostats. On my car, I couldn't get away with it because my car will detonate depending on which EZK chip and cam I'm using at the moment.

[Mortar]

Mines on the top hoes. I read on here that you set it with the turn off temp, rather than when it kicks on. Works for me.

[tomasss]

I have mentioned it in another thread, but just to be in the right topic - I recommend you the BMW switch - it has M14 thread (instead of M22 that has all others) and it is DUAL. So one output for low speed, one for high speed. Perfect solution for all double speeds efans. Used in all BMW's 3/5/7. Thanks the small thread, you have much more options where to mount it in.

http://www.mjauto.cz/_kfoto/fc75617.JPG

[Mylesofsmyles]

just read through this thread...beginning to end.

still, nobody has covered the correlation between the fan switch and thermostat temperature ratings.

based on a few reccomendations, it appears as though the fan cut-off temp rating should match the thermostat rating.

i just want to hear from a few others about this.

Also, any advice for selecting an optimum temp range for these parts. 88/82 vs 88/92, etc, etc. guess it all has to do with your climate, just wondering what you all do.

[tomasss]

In my mind this is the optimal configuration. If thermostat is fully open at 87C (system is fully warmed), the switch has to kick the fan to low speed at slightly higher temperature, for example 91C (which means cooling by the naturally coming air is not enough). Then, temperature for switching off shall be somewhere around the full-opening thermostat temperature (you don't want to over-cool it).
The second temperature shall be around the switching temperature of the genuine efan in ECC (in my case it is something about 95C).

[M.H. Yount]

When I originally configured the electric fans on mine, I went with temp switches and relays. I found later that there is a MUCH more elegant solution. Delta Current Control (and others) makes a variable current/speed controller. ( http://www.dccontrol.com/ ) By varying the current, startup voltage/current spikes and the associated wear/tear on the electrical system and the fan motors are eliminated. The fan only runs as fast as it needs to to keep the system at the set point which minimizes parasitic losses and noise. And - perhaps most importantly - the engine is kept in a much tighter operating range of coolant temps. This type of controller often allows a one-size smaller alternator to be used in those cases where an upgrade of the alternator is necessary to manage the fan load.

I have a 180F t'stat in mine that begins to open around 177F and is completely open by 182F (substantially open at 180F). I established the set point of the DCC variable speed controller at 187F. When cruising in the 25-40mph range the fans turn completely off as there is enough air flow across the rad to allow the t'stat to control operating temp - in the 180F range. At speeds below that the fans come on at whatever speed necessary to keep the operating temps in the 187-190F range. I have a 'fan tach' in the gauge cluster (modified Volvo 52mm tach and Volvo turbo boost gauge face) that tells me how fast the fans are turning. As I'm cruising, the needle shows no fan movement. As I come to a stop -- gradually the fans begin to increase speed cooling the car as necessary. Even in 100F ambients, they rarely run at more than 50% speed (SPAL dual 11" fully shrouded). As I pull away from the light - usually within 15-90 seconds depending on ambient temp - the fans drop gradually back to zero speed as cooling needs are met by flowing air. Works pretty slick.

The same controller that drives the dual 11" cooling fans also drives a smaller 8" fan on my oil cooler.

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad214/MichaelYount/fantach.jpg

[will740turbo]

MH - what do you use for sensors? At that temp, I imagine you mileage (could be) very good. That and no mechanical fan to consume gobs of energy.
Which model did you buy?

[M.H. Yount]

Mine is one of the original (very early) 35A models. It's not available any longer. DCC's bottom of the line variable controller should be capable of driving safely just about any fan that's needed to cool most of our cars. The sensor comes with the unit and simply pushes into the fins in the radiator near the outlet hose.

I'm sure the unit/set-up helps a bit with mileage. But the main reason mine gets about the same mileage it did with the 4cyl (if you keep your foot out of it) is because it was set up to make GOBS of torque down low. 16-19 city depending on how much stop/go; 24-27 highway. Best interstate tank of 27.5 mpg running about 65 mph.

[RS1]

According to this: http://www.stonis-world.net/lh_ezk.html there is a cooling fan output on the LH2.4 fuel ecu. Have anyone used it or know at which temperature it actives? It's not present in the 240 loom. Is there a program for it in the chip?

[KwikBrik245]

According to this: http://www.stonis-world.net/lh_ezk.html there is a cooling fan output on the LH2.4 fuel ecu. Have anyone used it or know at which temperature it actives? It's not present in the 240 loom. Is there a program for it in the chip?

Yup. I just picked up a 960 fan, 960 fan relay/harness, and a 2.4 940 ecu yesterday. Xmas Eve is the install date. I will just have to run two wires (low and high speed) from the ecu to the fan

[will740turbo]

Yup. I just picked up a 960 fan, 960 fan relay/harness, and a 2.4 940 ecu yesterday. Xmas Eve is the install date. I will just have to run two wires (low and high speed) from the ecu to the fan

No relays? Are those wires from the ECU carrying the power to the fan?

[WindowsBreakerG4]

well the 960 fan has a relay on the harness so I am assuming he's using that

[KwikBrik245]

No relays? Are those wires from the ECU carrying the power to the fan?

No, the 960 fan relay/harness carries the power. the ecu just send the low current (signal) to the relay to turn on the fans

[xylopagus]

On Thursday of last week I was driving in bad Houston-city traffic and noticed that my temperature got to the 10 o-clock mark. I wondered why my fan had not clicked on so I used my dash switch. Still nothing.

Apparently the motor died : (. I tried bypassing the relay and still no fan. Luckily I still had my MFAN so I bolted that on and took a trip to the JY to get another. I had only used the thing for 4 months or so!

[miguel.760ti]

Did this swap last week on my 760 using a saab temp switch in the upper rad hose for low speed and the switch in the rad for high speed, works great so far, the real test will come in the AZ summer...

[bcumby]

Yup. I just picked up a 960 fan, 960 fan relay/harness, and a 2.4 940 ecu yesterday. Xmas Eve is the install date. I will just have to run two wires (low and high speed) from the ecu to the fan


Which model of ECU is this that has the functionality?

I have an intermittent ECU problem so while I am solving that one, I could automate my e-fan operation.

[Mr Yuck]

OK, my turn:

Car: '88 240 DL NA
-Fan/shroud and attatched wiring to the relay: From a 960
-Relay and wiring/connector from relay to radiator
-Wiring from relay to battery
-Wiring from relay to driver's fender: From a 940

What else is needed before I start? Will the stock 240 alternator be good enough or should I take the alternator from the 940 at the yard? I drive in temperatures up to 110F in the summer, down to -10F in the winter.

[swedishiron.com]

Stock 240 alternator from '89? and newer with 80 amp unit should be fine.

[Mr Yuck]

Not sure which alternator I have, it's from a parts car.

Would the alternator from a '95 940 fit?

FCP Groton shows same part number for '87-'93 240 and '87-'91 740.

At the junkyard, there's an '87 740 and '95 940.

[klr142]

Your stock one will be good enough, but the '95 940's should be better. It may take some slight modification to work, but it should work. I put a 100A denso on my car a month or so ago, only mods were opening up the main positive terminal and splitting the insulation tube that contains the oil pressure switch wiring to allow it to come away from the positive terminal a bit farther. Nothing special, really.

[Mylesofsmyles]

I just found a SAAB fan switch in my pile of stuff.

82/92*C....is this the right one?

[Mylesofsmyles]

^

I hope so, cuz that's what I put in, with my SAAB t connector in the upper radiator hose

[bcumby]

Which model of ECU is this that has the functionality?


Still looking for this info - and it isn't as easy as "go find an lh 2.4 940 in a JY :lol:" - our JY's are fairly picked over and not many 9's - I will most likely have to buy the ECU with the on-board fan control from someone on TB.

[Mylesofsmyles]

I just found a SAAB fan switch in my pile of stuff.

82/92*C....is this the right one?

still wondering if this is the right switch...


anybody got any input?

[Mr Yuck]

Your stock one will be good enough, but the '95 940's should be better. It may take some slight modification to work, but it should work. I put a 100A denso on my car a month or so ago, only mods were opening up the main positive terminal and splitting the insulation tube that contains the oil pressure switch wiring to allow it to come away from the positive terminal a bit farther. Nothing special, really.

I was back at the yard and there were NO alternators left in the bricks....apparently they're pretty well sought after.

I just got to my parents' house and my dad happens to have a switch from a 740 radiator, we'll be checking if it works, the fan tested functional for both high and low speed.

I'm thinking of wiring the radiator switch to one speed and a toggle switch on my dash for the other....haven't decided whether I want high or low speed to be automatic though....I'm thinking low speed should come on automatically and high speed with the toggle? That way, I can give my charging system a break, by selecting between foglights, heater fan, and the engine fan.

Maybe I'll put LED bulbs in for my tail-lights and turn signals to save every little bit of power I can...I'll make sure the stock alternator is good enough. :lol:

[klr142]

Run the low speed off of it. You'll never need to use the high speed. Your stock alternator will be fine, mine was, but I wanted something better anyway, just for the peace of mind.

[Mr Yuck]

Done...all I had to do was snug 3 zip ties. :lol:

My dad did all the work while I took pictures of their house for the real estate ad. (It took me longer to prep rooms and shoot the pictures than it did for my dad to install the E-fan, new radiator, and fresh coolant.)

Anyway, a new radiator was needed because my stock radiator didn't have the hole for the temperature switch, and we figured it would be better to sell the stock radiator to someone that needed it than to attempt making a hole just the right size....low speed was wired to that switch, high speed was wrapped up and zip tied under the fan relay in case I deem low-speed insufficient. My voltmeter reads perfectly happy when the fan is on.

<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#1"><img src="http://i.min.us/jesw3k.jpg" border="0"/></a>
Fan is from a '95 960
<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#2"><img src="http://i.min.us/jexv3U.jpg" border="0"/></a>
Relay is from a '95 940
<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#3"><img src="http://i.min.us/jexxCc.jpg" border="0"/></a>
Switch is from a '92 740

Radiator is brand new from Napa, for my '88 240, came with the hole for the switch. Tested on the stock 740 and that's what triggers the low speed.

[Xovaan]

Those pics are helpful!

So if I have that exact same setup right now, and am running my low speed to the temp sensor, how would I splice in a cabin-mounted switch that would activate the high speed fan?

Do I just take the high speed wire and put a switch on it then ground, like so?

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8893/volvorelay.jpg

Anybody wanna clarify this for me?

[Crazychopstick]

Those pics are helpful!

So if I have that exact same setup right now, and am running my low speed to the temp sensor, how would I splice in a cabin-mounted switch that would activate the high speed fan?

Do I just take the high speed wire and put a switch on it then ground, like so?

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8893/volvorelay.jpg

Anybody wanna clarify this for me?

That's correct, the switch would just connect to ground whenever switched.

[leslie_s]

Thats funny, my 82 has that sensor in the radiator, but it was never plugged into anything. I had been wondering about that. I wonder if it works. I found a fan from a 740 at the junkyard, have to trim the shroud to make it work though..

so what turns the fan on for high speed? ac?

[Tick]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-31147/

[Mylesofsmyles]

still wondering if this is the right switch...


anybody got any input?

Anyone, anyone?

Bueller, Mueller?

[klr142]

Anyone, anyone?

Bueller, Mueller?Possibly, try it. It may work perfect or it may turn on a little late. Either way, nothing will blow up or overheat.

[Jorn]

I'm trying to install a 740 elec. fan in my 780: not enough room; the fan/belt pulley touches the electric fan just by 1/4 of an inch. Would have thought it would be the same as a 740/760. :-(

[leslie_s]

I'm trying to install a 740 elec. fan in my 780: not enough room; the fan/belt pulley touches the electric fan just by 1/4 of an inch. Would have thought it would be the same as a 740/760. :-(

you did take the fan clutch off the pulley, and not just the fan off the clutch, right....? I've never had a 780, but this doesnt sound right, at all. I have a 740 electric fan in my 240 and theres so much room between it and the pulley its crazy...

[Crazychopstick]

you did take the fan clutch off the pulley, and not just the fan off the clutch, right....? I've never had a 780, but this doesnt sound right, at all. I have a 740 electric fan in my 240 and theres so much room between it and the pulley its crazy...

If you've never had experience with the subject or don't have an answer, why did you even bother to respond. These threads are for technical how-tos, not OT banter about your 240.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=2545270#post2545270

[leslie_s]

If you've never had experience with the subject or don't have an answer, why did you even bother to respond. These threads are for technical how-tos, not OT banter about your 240.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=2545270#post2545270

Because it doesnt sound right at all. The electric fan from a 740 is TINY..... Seriously, sorry I had a comment.

[propav8r]

Because it doesnt sound right at all. The electric fan from a 740 is TINY..... Seriously, sorry I had a comment.

I thought you weren't ever going to post on TB again?

[leslie_s]

a**** you troll

[Jorn]

Done...all I had to do was snug 3 zip ties. :lol:

My dad did all the work while I took pictures of their house for the real estate ad. (It took me longer to prep rooms and shoot the pictures than it did for my dad to install the E-fan, new radiator, and fresh coolant.)

Anyway, a new radiator was needed because my stock radiator didn't have the hole for the temperature switch, and we figured it would be better to sell the stock radiator to someone that needed it than to attempt making a hole just the right size....low speed was wired to that switch, high speed was wrapped up and zip tied under the fan relay in case I deem low-speed insufficient. My voltmeter reads perfectly happy when the fan is on.

<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#1"><img src="http://i.min.us/jesw3k.jpg" border="0"/></a>
Fan is from a '95 960
<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#2"><img src="http://i.min.us/jexv3U.jpg" border="0"/></a>
Relay is from a '95 940
<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#3"><img src="http://i.min.us/jexxCc.jpg" border="0"/></a>
Switch is from a '92 740

Radiator is brand new from Napa, for my '88 240, came with the hole for the switch. Tested on the stock 740 and that's what triggers the low speed.

Did you buy the temperature switch or is it the one that came with the radiator and is used for the AC fan?

[Mr Yuck]

Did you buy the temperature switch or is it the one that came with the radiator and is used for the AC fan?

The temp switch is pulled directly from a stock '92 745, when I grounded the leads while it was installed on the 740, it triggered the low-speed main fan. Apparently the ECU triggers high speed on a stock '92 740.

I'm not sure I like it as it is, I might change the radiator port switch to trigger high speed and have low speed triggered by a dash switch or an adjustable temperature switch. I'll remove my temperature compensation board in the summer to help me decide, but it's still too cold out to tell right now.

[Jorn]

I've got it to work with the existing temp switch; got it hooked up to the low speed. The fan came on after idling for five minutes, so I guess that's good. I was thinking about the switch on the dash for the high speed. But what a great upgrade; the shaking is gone and the car is so silent, almost a hybrid when coasting...

He, and tnx for the pictures helped a lot!

[leslie_s]

i havent hooked mine up yet since i intend to pull my engine...but i have put some thought into just hooking the high speed up to the switch....that way i can be more obnoxious....

i love how much room there is in the engine bay without the huge clutch fan..

[WindowsBreakerG4]

I'm trying to install a 740 elec. fan in my 780: not enough room; the fan/belt pulley touches the electric fan just by 1/4 of an inch. Would have thought it would be the same as a 740/760. :-(

Depends on the rad that you have. I have that issue with my 3 row nissens, so I used a chinese fake spal though I suspect it doesn't move enough air so I am going to try to move to a ford Thunderbird SC fan (18"!, supposed to move a metric **** ton of air) and I am putting a 360 water pump and pulley into my car.

[tryingbe]

Are you looking for high impedance or low impedance injectors?

[Hog Hauler]

So I have read through this whole thread from start to finish. I am also trying to do the e-fan conversion on my 87 740ti and it appears that there just isn't enough room to put the 940 fan in there. I have tried removing the studs on the water pump and putting bolts in there and still not enough room. Is there any way to make this e-fan fit or do I need a slimmer fan? I already have the whole setup so I'm hoping I can make it work. Is there a slimmer water pump and pulley setup?

[miguel.760ti]

Ditch the 940 shroud and adapt the fan to the stock shroud by using zip ties. The kind that auto zone sells to mount e-fans/oil coolers to radiators work great, I can get you a part number/UPC if needed.

Posted via Mobile Device

[leslie_s]

I wish there was a way to get my 740 fan and shroud on my 240 without any zipties. I'm going to have to use them on the bottom though, it seems. :(

[Texas240]

So I have read through this whole thread from start to finish. I am also trying to do the e-fan conversion on my 87 740ti and it appears that there just isn't enough room to put the 940 fan in there. I have tried removing the studs on the water pump and putting bolts in there and still not enough room. Is there any way to make this e-fan fit or do I need a slimmer fan? I already have the whole setup so I'm hoping I can make it work. Is there a slimmer water pump and pulley setup?

are you serious, I have a 940 fan/ shroud on my 240 and I have a food 2" of space. I think you can do it on your 740

[Hog Hauler]

are you serious, I have a 940 fan/ shroud on my 240 and I have a food 2" of space. I think you can do it on your 740

Yes I am serious! I already know it fits in a 240 there is even tons of pics on here of people that have installed them on 240's. There is a ton more room. Again the fan just physically doesn't fit in my 740 turbo. Even if I ditch the 949 fan shroud and adapt it to my factory shroud still doesn't fit. So if anyone has any suggestions (shorter water pump or different pulley) it would be much appreciated.

[doucheNozzle]

You have one of those triple core radiators. PM windowsbreakerG4 and ask him how he did his. I can't remember. I think he used a china fan.

[Texas240]

You have one of those triple core radiators. PM windowsbreakerG4 and ask him how he did his. I can't remember. I think he used a china fan.

I have the triple core radiator and the 240 has less engine bay space

[WindowsBreakerG4]

Engine sits back a bit further, nissens 3row+ 740 turbo + 940 fan =s no fit. The one that i could get it to almost work was mounting the fan in the stock shroud but even that was no go.

[Hog Hauler]

Engine sits back a bit further, nissens 3row+ 740 turbo + 940 fan =s no fit. The one that i could get it to almost work was mounting the fan in the stock shroud but even that was no go.

So was there a different fan that you got to work?
What about that duel Toyota fans in the modification section has anyone done that?

[WindowsBreakerG4]

I used a chinese spal knock off though i have cooling issues and IDK if they are related to the fan or not.

I am hoping with a 360 waterpump I can squeeze in a thunderbird fan. Might try it now but I think it's too thick

[Texas240]

Engine sits back a bit further, nissens 3row+ 740 turbo + 940 fan =s no fit. The one that i could get it to almost work was mounting the fan in the stock shroud but even that was no go.

thats a damn shame

[swiftjustice44]

Engine sits back a bit further, nissens 3row+ 740 turbo + 940 fan =s no fit. The one that i could get it to almost work was mounting the fan in the stock shroud but even that was no go.
I suppose there may be a tiny amount of variation between individual cars. Granted my 84 760T had a B23, but I was able to do it by using the stock fan shroud. I had to grind down flush the centering snout that comes through the water pump pulley. I also had to grind down the heads of the bolts holding the pulley onto the water pump...pretty sure I ended up with a solid 1/8 inch clearance! And that was w/ a 3 row...
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/760%20Gle%20Tic%20B23FT/101_0017.jpg

[leslie_s]

I used a chinese spal knock off though i have cooling issues and IDK if they are related to the fan or not.

I am hoping with a 360 waterpump I can squeeze in a thunderbird fan. Might try it now but I think it's too thick

are the cooling issues worse when youre idling/driving in heavy, slow traffic, or when youre cruising down the highway at speed? the fan makes a lot more difference on the slow side of things, unless its ridiculously powerful, like the fan on semi engines which wastes up to 70 horsepower. rather than some knock off fan, you're better off getting an oem fan that'll fit. tape measure plus junkyards are awesome. i especially like how at my junkyards, i can grab a part like a fan, with a 20 foot tail of electrical wiring for it, relays, etc, for it, without them paying attention to the tail. I paid $20 for an e-fan from a 92 740..not bad. there's GM fans, etc, that'll fit, thats what the tape measure is for..

[miguel.760ti]

I'll take some pics of my 940 fan setup, it's adapted to the stock clutch fan shroud with the stock rad & an NPR with a 1/2" or so clearance.

You guys are doin it wrong

[Lord_Athlon]

I'll take some pics of my 940 fan setup, it's adapted to the stock clutch fan shroud with the stock rad & an NPR with a 1/2" or so clearance.

You guys are doin it wrong

They dont have ME installing fans =P

[miguel.760ti]

Alex has the magic e-fan touch!

[sandrock740]

I'll take some pics of my 940 fan setup, it's adapted to the stock clutch fan shroud with the stock rad & an NPR with a 1/2" or so clearance.

You guys are doin it wrong

i did the same i use the fan clutch shroud too :-P

[leslie_s]

i did the same i use the fan clutch shroud too :-P

the only important part is that the shroud is ducting air through the entire radiator, and that it looks good (which is important to me, but not others...heh!). I probably would have done that, but i got my e-fan at the same time as installing a turbo and intercooler, and the stock shroud wasnt even close to fitting. I cut down the 92 740 shroud to fit though. I'll have pics after i get the damn thing in the car. F my job.

[WindowsBreakerG4]

I suppose there may be a tiny amount of variation between individual cars. Granted my 84 760T had a B23, but I was able to do it by using the stock fan shroud. I had to grind down flush the centering snout that comes through the water pump pulley. I also had to grind down the heads of the bolts holding the pulley onto the water pump...pretty sure I ended up with a solid 1/8 inch clearance! And that was w/ a 3 row...
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff67/swiftjustice44/760%20Gle%20Tic%20B23FT/101_0017.jpg

Well I guess if I ground it down i'd have about an 1/8th" of clearance too but that seems crazy close to me. I had about a 1/16" if I only attached it on 3 sides but that was too close for comfort for me.

are the cooling issues worse when youre idling/driving in heavy, slow traffic, or when youre cruising down the highway at speed? the fan makes a lot more difference on the slow side of things, unless its ridiculously powerful, like the fan on semi engines which wastes up to 70 horsepower. rather than some knock off fan, you're better off getting an oem fan that'll fit. tape measure plus junkyards are awesome. i especially like how at my junkyards, i can grab a part like a fan, with a 20 foot tail of electrical wiring for it, relays, etc, for it, without them paying attention to the tail. I paid $20 for an e-fan from a 92 740..not bad. there's GM fans, etc, that'll fit, thats what the tape measure is for..
I don't have issues at highway speed unless i am climbing a fairly steep long grade. My 2.5" thick knock off spal barely fits which makes finding an OEM fan that fits almost impossible. That's why i started this thread http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=3721986 so i can put a ford fan in. If you'd like to help me figure out my issue please post in there :)

the only important part is that the shroud is ducting air through the entire radiator, and that it looks good (which is important to me, but not others...heh!). I probably would have done that, but i got my e-fan at the same time as installing a turbo and intercooler, and the stock shroud wasnt even close to fitting. I cut down the 92 740 shroud to fit though. I'll have pics after i get the damn thing in the car. F my job.
I used the mech fan shroud too 940 fan with the cut should also rubbed

[propav8r]

Gonna go grab a 960 fan tomorrow. That one looks the cleanest, and plus it plugs right up to a stock relay. Great read! So much good info on this site.

[WindowsBreakerG4]

late 940 and 960 have the same fan as far as I know.

[Hog Hauler]

Well I got my 940 e-fan installed today and it's working great. My first attempt didnt go so well because I used the cut down 940 shroud and it just wouldn't fit. So today I tried again and adapted it to my factory shroud and with a few minor adjustments it's working great with a good 3/16" of clearance between the water pump bolts and the fan motor. I know it's pretty close but I think I can live with that. Thanks for everyones input.

[wooble]

Ass. Turns out the ECU in my '93 240 doesn't have E-fan control, so not all 9xx series ECUs have it as standard as I was told. I think I'll have to go with the BMW 50042 fan switch in a tee on the upper rad hose.

EDIT: Or I would if you could get a rad hose too with an M14 thread in it, which you can't apparently. Anybody know what car I could get a 2-speed fan switch like the BMW one out of, but with a 1/8 NPT thread to fit the rad hose adapters on the market? or hell, even a 1/8NPT to M14 adapter would work if I could find one the right way round.

[klr142]

Just use the switch in the radiator, if it has one. I put a colder switch in mine though. It works great and holds the temp solid with the 87 deg. Celsius tstat in there.

[wooble]

No rad switch, I'm using a 960 radiator, I didn't want to hack up the fan shroud and I figure it can't hurt to have some reserve cooling capacity if I'm turbocharging the car. I've found a rad hose insert that has M14x1.5 thread in it now, and I've got the BMW fan switch and pigtail from the scrapyard so I'll have it running as soon as the hose insert arrives. I know it's not really necessary, I just like the idea of having both speeds functional on my 2-speed fan and having it looking as 'factory' as possible.

[Ursan]

Maybe this will help some people:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=176269

[jonah]

I've found a rad hose insert that has M14x1.5 thread in it now...Where did you find the rad insert? I need to do something like this also.

Edit: I see Revotec do one with the M14 thread.

[wooble]

Where did you find the rad insert? I need to do something like this also.

Edit: I see Revotec do one with the M14 thread.

It's the Revotec one I'm using, just waiting for it to be delivered. Combined with the BMW fan switch from a few pages back and stuck in the top hose, and a 960 rad/fan/relay setup it should all be pretty compact and reliable, and look stock. I'll post some pix of it finished when the insert gets delivered.

[boosted_nonv]

i have a 12" hayden slim fan that pushes 800cfm, is that gonna be good enough, if i take off my clutch fan?

[leslie_s]

i have a 12" hayden slim fan that pushes 800cfm, is that gonna be good enough, if i take off my clutch fan?

im sure it will. sounds like overkill though....

[WindowsBreakerG4]

800 CFM sounds really low to me cause once put on a rad it's probably like 600 max :e-shrug:

[mickeys240]

The answer is never really that simple. It can be enough IF:

1. Your radiator is not all gummed up OR the one you got flows to it's original specification.


2. The Pump flows to it's original specification.

3. Your head/block flows to it's original specification.

4. You don't sit around in hot traffic jams all day.

Then yes you can get buy with what you have.

Going to a 160' thermostat can help.

the OEM fan with a shroud does pull more air under real world conditions with a functioning fan clutch.

The fan should meet the envelope as long as you use it under optimal daily driver conditions in cold ambient air conditions. My math says you need more if the ambient air temps see the normal summer heat in that part of the country.

I.E. If it is a hot day and you are stuck in traffic, you might have to use the heater in your car to supplement the loss of cooling of deleting the OEM fan.

Another side effect that you might see is that the ~800 CFM fan might be on full speed more of the time rather then at low speed.

The question still remains, is the fan that you are using push ~800 when at full speed, Is the fan also rated at it's low speed, and how much CFM does push when at that setting.

For example Here is a 4-6 cyl Dodge cirrus fan that is measured at 12.5 volts with 2 fans.

Dodge Fan (both fans are always on - 2 speed)
Slow speed - 3700 cfm
High Speed 9000 cfm (http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=350404)


So it is my opinion that a fan that is rated for 800CFM might push more or less depending on how the fan was measured.

Taking into account of how large the frontal air intake area (grill area) is in a Volvo, and provided that your hood does not seal on the sides or the rear of the hood (no foam or Rubber seal that I have seen) You should have a larger envelope of convention? cooling.

If anything is not optimal, ( like the fan shroud only covering a small circumference of the radiator instead of pulling air through the entiire surface
I.E.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41tY8at7yeL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

(Pt cruiser referred)

Vs this
http://www.partstrain.com/images/product_images/thumbs/replacement/j160602_1ftbk.jpg

Then IMO, Keep your OEM fan in the trunk, and a small tool box to put it on when you need it. :cool:

[leslie_s]

Wow, i never realized a fan had to push that much air. 800 sounded a lot til the 3700 came up..

[tryingbe]

My GLH was slowly over heating at idle with a 1700cfm 14inch Hayden fan, with no shroud. It's fine once the car is moving.

Made a shroud, installed a 2,785 cfm ZFU14S Zirgo fan. Issue is completely gone.

Stock 940/960/850 pulls even more air than my ZFU14S fan, and if it is good enough for a 940/960/850, it's good enough for a 240, (with a shroud).

[mickeys240]

Truer words have never been spoken.

[boosted_nonv]

I got rid of the 12" and got a 16" that flows a lot more, I think the 16" would be a lot better, but ima stll go get a 960 fan

[chriselalto]

Pulled a 16inch fan from a 87cutlass. Installed it in about an hour. I LOVE IT it looks so much better and far more efficient. Thanks Dave B

[BDKR]

My GLH was slowly over heating at idle with a 1700cfm 14inch Hayden fan, with no shroud. It's fine once the car is moving.

Made a shroud, installed a 2,785 cfm ZFU14S Zirgo fan. Issue is completely gone.

Stock 940/960/850 pulls even more air than my ZFU14S fan, and if it is good enough for a 940/960/850, it's good enough for a 240, (with a shroud).

Yeah! Shrouds are super important. Found that out the hard way back in '05.

I was using one of those 960 fans at first. The amount of power from those things is ungodly! If you don't use any OE fan control, Summit has excellent adjustable dual speed controllers. This will be my next controller.

[Mylesofsmyles]

Sooo, anyone wire in a fan switch before?

Going to do this, just want someone to critique my method.

I'm using a 960 fan in my 240, with the 960 relay.

All of the wiring will be consistant, power and ground and fusable link.

For the switch, I'm going to use a Hi/Lo switch on the dash...which'll ground out the high or low speed circuit in the relay.

My question is that since, I'm using grounds and not (+), do I just ground out the switch for it to work...say instead of a rear defroster switch, which get's its (+) trigger and switched power?

Maybe I could use a switched power source for a switch light though.

[Mylesofsmyles]

Sooo, anyone wire in a fan switch before?

Going to do this, just want someone to critique my method.

I'm using a 960 fan in my 240, with the 960 relay.

All of the wiring will be consistant, power and ground and fusable link.

For the switch, I'm going to use a Hi/Lo switch on the dash...which'll ground out the high or low speed circuit in the relay.

My question is that since, I'm using grounds and not (+), do I just ground out the switch for it to work...say instead of a rear defroster switch, which get's its (+) trigger and switched power?

Maybe I could use a switched power source for a switch light though.

[tryingbe]

You don't need a fusible link with the fan. There isn't one on the stock 940, 960, nor 850. Just connect the red wires to 12v, and black to neg. You ground the two little wires to either get high speed or low speed. You can either ground the switch or run a relay to make the fan work. Or get an adjustable thermostat for $20 and have the thermostat do the turning on/off for you.

[Mylesofsmyles]

You don't need a fusible link with the fan. There isn't one on the stock 940, 960, nor 850. Just connect the red wires to 12v, and black to neg. You ground the two little wires to either get high speed or low speed. You can either ground the switch or run a relay to make the fan work. Or get an adjustable thermostat for $20 and have the thermostat do the turning on/off for you.

Ummmmmmmm........


What kinda thermostat?

Rockin the 960 relay for now, but wanna make my MS handle that...but that's later!

FYI...there's a fusible link in the (+) cable to the battery...pulled it myself.

[tryingbe]

http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Inc-3653-Cooling-Control/dp/B000C39C6I/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1310216714&sr=1-2

[Mylesofsmyles]

Soooo, why would I want me one of those, instead of the 960 relay??

I've got a good temp sensor in the hose and it works just fine...I'm just trying to afford myself the ability to control it manually...as well!

I suppose, just give switched power to the bulb, and then just ground the other prong on the switch and then the other to the high setting on the relay.

Orrrrr, I could do that, plus another lead to the low setting on the relay, spliced in with the temp sensor...so I've got it all.

http://secure.shorewaymarine.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=SSM&Product_Code=SCP12441&Category_Code=HS

Found this...three position, illuminated rocker switch...it'll fit in a standard 240 switch hole.

[miguel.760ti]

You need a thermostat to tell the relay to kick the fan on whether if it's a sensor in a hose or the probe style harry posted earlier.

You're wanting to make the install more complicated than what it is, you don't need a switch at all if you wire it correctly. Just a power, ground and signals for the low/high speed. The volvo e-fan relays rarely fail, but if they do they're plentiful enough in junkyards that you could pocket 10 spares for you and your tb buddies.

[Mylesofsmyles]

So I"m the only one that finds it beneficial to have a cockpit mounted fan switch???

Uhhh, what???

Complicated? Were talking about running two extra wires.

I'm setup with a in-hose thermostat as we speak, and it works...

Just saying, it's a good thing to have as a back-up, or alternative.

[Mylesofsmyles]

...

[chriselalto]

Im sure there are benefits of the incab switch. But i feel like Miguel is asking "why?" or "whats the point!" if the relay and temp. sensor will power and switch the fan on and off.

If you were to wire up the thermostat and the switch whats the point of the switch other to run the fan before the engine heats up. I keep a spare relay in my car for that just in case scenario, just like a spare tool set and various wires and fuses.

[Mylesofsmyles]

Seems like a nice thing to have...just in case. I'm not saying it'll be used on the regular, but I can't see why I wouldn't want it. Got the idea from the last '84 Ferrari I was in, and when I'd sit in traffic, I'd switch the fan on manually, via a cockpit switch...don't think it had a thermostat.

Again, I think it'd just be a smart idea. And, besides, unless I fit a second thermostat, I'm only making use of one out to two available speeds..........which gets me thinking, would the fan be sufficient to be a puller fan for the AC condensor, as in, get the AC system to power the high speed one, and suck air from where it is, behind the radiator?

[bigbret]

I run a 92 degree Celcius in the rad itself, and the car runs excellent. I verified head temps were exceptable with an infared thermometer. The fan is turned off at 88 degrees celcius. It will cycle three times on a hot day after I turn off the car. Current temps in Sonoma county have been 80's to 90's. This set up is real nice. I am running the 2 speed fan from a 960 with the relay. LOw speed is controlled by the temp switch. High speed is a center console mounted switch. It is nice to be able to turn on the fan in traffic or after shut down if I want to wrench sooner on a hot engine.

Is this how you want to run it Myles?

[Mylesofsmyles]

You got it Bret....but was saying I'd use a two position switch to also have control of both speeds via cockpit...just cause.


I'm serious though.....would the high setting be enough for the radiator and ac condensor?

[Brandon]

Not sure if it helps at all, but I've got a Chrysler Lebaron fan in my 245. I simply cut the shroud to get it to fit, wired in a relay, and I run it completely manually from the cabin. I thought about doing a thermostat, but then I decided not to. Either way it works perfect. I usually flip it on once it's at or just below the 1/2 way mark and it cools it off super fast. Even idling in traffic on a hot day it'll almost bring the temps down to a point on the temp gauge near the 'C' where I'm almost afraid it's running too cold.

This is a car with A/C in it. I also ran the same set-up (same fan and everything) on my 244T. There was a condenser in the car as well as an intercooler, and when the fan was switched on in hot traffic I'd almost never see it above 1/2 on the temp gauge.

[miguel.760ti]

So I"m the only one that finds it beneficial to have a cockpit mounted fan switch???

Uhhh, what???

Complicated? Were talking about running two extra wires.

I'm setup with a in-hose thermostat as we speak, and it works...

Just saying, it's a good thing to have as a back-up, or alternative.

If you plan on running the fan just with a switch then I see your point, if you're going to use a manual switch with a temp switch then it's more redundant than anything. Sure if the temp switch fails you can flip the manual switch and keep going, but if the relay fails you're ****ed no matter what.

[Mylesofsmyles]

If you plan on running the fan just with a switch then I see your point, if you're going to use a manual switch with a temp switch then it's more redundant than anything. Sure if the temp switch fails you can flip the manual switch and keep going, but if the relay fails you're ****ed no matter what.

Sure, sure....Just saying, you can't have a car that lacks adjust ability...redundent, maybe, but also a nice fail safe.



This is a car with A/C in it. I also ran the same set-up (same fan and everything) on my 244T. There was a condenser in the car as well as an intercooler, and when the fan was switched on in hot traffic I'd almost never see it above 1/2 on the temp gauge.


So you used the fan from behind your radiator to cool the ac condensor too??/

There won't be an intercooler in my way, so just a radiator behind the condensor...I hope that'll pull enough air...gonna wire the high speed to my ac, i think.

[miguel.760ti]

Sure, sure....Just saying, you can't have a car that lacks adjust ability...redundent, maybe, but also a nice fail safe.

True, but the dealerships & shops made money when people brought their cars in when they over heated when the fan failed and didn't have such a fail safe.

[Mylesofsmyles]

^I'm trying to make it home, not make a dealership money.

[Brandon]

Sure, sure....Just saying, you can't have a car that lacks adjust ability...redundent, maybe, but also a nice fail safe.





So you used the fan from behind your radiator to cool the ac condensor too??/

There won't be an intercooler in my way, so just a radiator behind the condensor...I hope that'll pull enough air...gonna wire the high speed to my ac, i think.


The turbo car doesn't have working A/C, so I really didn't care what it did. The 245 that the fan is on now has a fan up front of the condenser. I hope I understood you're question correctly.

[Mylesofsmyles]

^

Looks like I got my answer...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=240465

Trying to eliminate the condenser fan all together and, instead, use the high speed setting on a 960 e-fan relay to trigger my radiator mount fan...for the purpose of cooling the condenser. Didn't know this, but I guess the later 940's came with this setup, so instead of having a fan behind the radiator for the cooling system and one in front of the condenser for A/C, they just wired up two speed settings on the radiator mount unit.

So, I've now taken out my condenser fan and will make the adjustments in my new harness, so that my A/C pressure sensor triggers the high speed setting on my radiator mount e-fan, instead of the, now non existent, condenser fan.

[Mylesofsmyles]

^

Looks like I got my answer...

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=240465

Trying to eliminate the condenser fan all together and, instead, use the high speed setting on a 960 e-fan relay to trigger my radiator mount fan...for the purpose of cooling the condenser. Didn't know this, but I guess the later 940's came with this setup, so instead of having a fan behind the radiator for the cooling system and one in front of the condenser for A/C, they just wired up two speed settings on the radiator mount unit.

So, I've now taken out my condenser fan and will make the adjustments in my new harness, so that my A/C pressure sensor triggers the high speed setting on my radiator mount e-fan, instead of the, now non existent, condenser fan.

[bigbret]

Yeah I dont have a pusher fan. High speed on the 960 fan seems to work fine for MY ice cold AC.

[SB1]

Short question for the AC afficianado's;

My 88 NA sedan has (non functioning) AC and the electric pusher fan in front of the radiator. It seems however that my radiator does not have a temp switch. The relay and fan are controlled by just the pressure switch on the AC.

Is there a simple way to divert the wires from the AC pressure switch to a temp sender in the radiator? And if so, what sensor do I need?

Since everything is in place and working (at least the relay and fan are) it seems stupid not to have a tad of extra cooling when idling on a hot day.

[Mylesofsmyles]

^^

Sooo, you've got the clutch fan on the water pump pulley, or you've got a proper RADIATOR e fan too?

I took the gray lead from the inside of the car to the ac fan relay, spliced that with the gray wire to the ac pressure switch and spliced in the lead to the high setting on the 960 relay.

I'll let you know how it goes when I put my harness back in the car.

[Marauder03]

For my '89 244, which did not have a pusher fan, only the clutch fan on the water pump pulley, I needed more cowbell to help the AC cool at idle/low speed in heavy traffic. I roamed the local pick-n-pull looking for something to put in front of the ac condenser. I found an electric radiator fan from a late model Caddy and fabbed its mount in front of the condenser. Wired its leads in reverse (to make it a pusher fan) through a relay triggered by the ac compressor's clutch signal wire. It comes on whenever the ac compressor engages. This made a big difference in the ac's cooling at idle. This was an LKQ yard, charged $27 ($20 for the fan + $7 core). Relay, wire, connectors and various screws and metal flats for brackets I already had in the garage. Won't win any car shows, but I hope it's in true TB style. ;-)

[Marauder03]

doppelganger

[tryingbe]

a late model Caddy and fabbed its mount in front of the condenser

How thick is the fan?

[Marauder03]

How thick is the fan?

I'll have to check this weekend.

[Jorn]

Be careful when you install an inline fuse-box from RadioShack. With me the fuse already came loose twice; fortunately both times I discovered it just in time.

[Marauder03]

I'll have to check this weekend.

The blade is 1 and 1/8 depth, 15 inch diameter, thickness of assembly including bracket is 3 inches. The blade is one of those which integrates a rim, like a wheel. I'll have to download a pic from my phone to illustrate.

[tryingbe]

Thanks for measuring. It's too big for my use. I only have 1.5 inch of space to work with.

[amgvr4]

I have read through the entire thread, and I have yet to find an answer to one set of questions. When using the factory fan control wire from a 9xx ecu how are people tying into them? Are they running new wires all the way back to the ecu plug and directly splicing them into ecu pin #7 and #22, or using vampire clips? Is there a spot closer in the engine bay the wires from pin #7 and #22 go to? And finialy is there a place I can find the wiring schematic for my '91 945 so that I can truly verify that pins #7 and #22 are for the fan control? Thanks, if I can figure this little detail out the install will be a snap.

[vvpete]

I have read through the entire thread, and I have yet to find an answer to one set of questions. When using the factory fan control wire from a 9xx ecu how are people tying into them? Are they running new wires all the way back to the ecu plug and directly splicing them into ecu pin #7 and #22, or using vampire clips? Is there a spot closer in the engine bay the wires from pin #7 and #22 go to? And finialy is there a place I can find the wiring schematic for my '91 945 so that I can truly verify that pins #7 and #22 are for the fan control? Thanks, if I can figure this little detail out the install will be a snap.

First, I don't believe the 940 had ECU fan control until '93 or '94, and then it needs to be a 9XX ECU, which the '91 may not have fan control pin-outs or wiring and youy will have to add the wires.

In any case, the wires from the relay are ground wires completed through the ECU, so all you need to do is run the blue/blk or wht/blk to those pins. Check at the pins to see if the're grounded after the engine is warm and at temp. Note: the ground can be either/or the temp sensor in the head OR the radiator mounted sensor. It's wired in parallel.

Normally the high speed (blue/blk IIRC) is wired to the hot-side radiator switch and/or the A/C pressure switch, and low speed goes through the ECU

[photoman327]

finally got around to putting in a 2 speed 940 fan on my 87 244. Used the 940 relay with a Saab T in the lower hose. It is a sweet setup. I tried one on the 91 with the adjustable temp hayden and blew a relay 600 miles from home. Lucky it was in the fall or Also to the time to clean the radiator that had nothing for a few years. Going to the same setup on my 91 since it works so well with just the low speed hooked up. Should be able to run a wire to the green wire on the AC compressor for the high speed. Thanks for the pictures of the relay on page 14.

[will740turbo]

The wiring doesn't look too bad to me, but what about a fan shroud that will make use of the full radiator? Are we talking 960 radiator+shroud? If so, will it fit into a 90 740T?

What I'd love to find is a radiator switch that has 2 switches inside that close at different temps. It seems simpler than a fan controller.

[photoman327]

The wiring doesn't look too bad to me, but what about a fan shroud that will make use of the full radiator? Are we talking 960 radiator+shroud? If so, will it fit into a 90 740T?

What I'd love to find is a radiator switch that has 2 switches inside that close at different temps. It seems simpler than a fan controller.

I use a 940 fan on a 240 so I had to trim some. May be a good fit on a 740.

[miguel.760ti]

The wiring doesn't look too bad to me, but what about a fan shroud that will make use of the full radiator? Are we talking 960 radiator+shroud? If so, will it fit into a 90 740T?

What I'd love to find is a radiator switch that has 2 switches inside that close at different temps. It seems simpler than a fan controller.

Re-use the stock shroud, the 940/960 shroud is way too thick to fit pre-92 7/9 with the mechanical fan.

As for fan switches you can use a t-fitting and switch (make sure it's not the one rated at 115*c) from a saab 9000. Put it inline one of the rad hoses and wire that to the low speed side of the volvo relay. Then if your radiator has the switch for the baby pusher fan in front of the a/c compressor, disconnect that and hook your high speed side to that switch.

[will740turbo]

Re-use the stock shroud, the 940/960 shroud is way too thick to fit pre-92 7/9 with the mechanical fan.

As for fan switches you can use a t-fitting and switch (make sure it's not the one rated at 115*c) from a saab 9000. Put it inline one of the rad hoses and wire that to the low speed side of the volvo relay. Then if your radiator has the switch for the baby pusher fan in front of the a/c compressor, disconnect that and hook your high speed side to that switch.

The T-fitting would work, but I don't want to add in more things that may break - especially plastic things. I'm thinking more like this:

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/474243000/V_W_Radiator_Fan_Switch_85.html

With that(in the right thread pitch and length), splice in a pigtail straight off the relay (and add a dash switch that switches that wire from the sensor to the switch) and who needs a fan controller?

[miguel.760ti]

The saab t-fittings are metal and aren't likely to break unless if you get one that's corroded to ****.

Not many people use a fan controller, the 2 speed volvo relay covers most everyone's needs.

[miguel.760ti]

The saab t-fittings are metal and aren't likely to break unless if you get one that's corroded to ****.

Not many people use a fan controller, the 2 speed volvo relay covers most everyone's needs.

[wooble]

I've got my fan finished, finally, and it works a treat. I'm using the medium 960 rad (590x420 core), 940 e-fan and relay, and BMW 2-speed fan switch in a T fitting in the top hose.

The relay gets it's power direct from the battery via a 30A slow-blow fuse which sits in a spare fuse holder already on the + terminal. It doesn't run at all while driving, kicks in occasionally in traffic, and it usually cycles itself once after I shut the car off. If it really bothers me I might put the fan on ignition-switched power instead.

http://i.imgur.com/GU4Kxl.jpg

Fan
http://i.imgur.com/xYofPl.jpg

Relay
http://i.imgur.com/zkPfVl.jpg

Switch
http://i.imgur.com/mxi3Ql.jpg

[jonah]

Excellent, I shall be copying this set up for mine. ;-)

[photoman327]

I've got my fan finished, finally, and it works a treat. I'm using the medium 960 rad (590x420 core), 940 e-fan and relay, and BMW 2-speed fan switch in a T fitting in the top hose.

The relay gets it's power direct from the battery via a 30A slow-blow fuse which sits in a spare fuse holder already on the + terminal. It doesn't run at all while driving, kicks in occasionally in traffic, and it usually cycles itself once after I shut the car off. If it really bothers me I might put the fan on ignition-switched power instead.

http://i.imgur.com/GU4Kxl.jpg

Fan
http://i.imgur.com/xYofPl.jpg

Relay

http://i.imgur.com/zkPfVl.jpg

Switch
http://i.imgur.com/mxi3Ql.jpg

what is the the temp switch set on got mine in the lower hose sand love it. Also what type of copler ? Looks billet.

[photoman327]

I've got my fan finished, finally, and it works a treat. I'm using the medium 960 rad (590x420 core), 940 e-fan and relay, and BMW 2-speed fan switch in a T fitting in the top hose.

The relay gets it's power direct from the battery via a 30A slow-blow fuse which sits in a spare fuse holder already on the + terminal. It doesn't run at all while driving, kicks in occasionally in traffic, and it usually cycles itself once after I shut the car off. If it really bothers me I might put the fan on ignition-switched power instead.

http://i.imgur.com/GU4Kxl.jpg

Fan
http://i.imgur.com/xYofPl.jpg

Relay

http://i.imgur.com/zkPfVl.jpg

Switch
http://i.imgur.com/mxi3Ql.jpg

what is the the temp switch set on got mine in the lower hose sand love it. Also what type of coppler ? Looks billet.

[donalson]

I've got my fan finished, finally, and it works a treat. I'm using the medium 960 rad (590x420 core), 940 e-fan and relay, and BMW 2-speed fan switch in a T fitting in the top hose.

The relay gets it's power direct from the battery via a 30A slow-blow fuse which sits in a spare fuse holder already on the + terminal. It doesn't run at all while driving, kicks in occasionally in traffic, and it usually cycles itself once after I shut the car off. If it really bothers me I might put the fan on ignition-switched power instead.


Switch
http://i.imgur.com/mxi3Ql.jpg

very nice... where did you get the T fitting from?...

some quick research shows that switch to be pretty common in BMW's...

as per napa's info...
Coolant Fan Switch Temp Rating : No. 1 On At 194 Deg. F., No. 2 On At 207 Deg. F.
Coolant Fan Switch Thread Size : M14 x 1.5"

some cross reference on summit for it Beck/Arnley 143-2011520
looks like it was used in everything from the 318 all the way on up to the v12 750 and everything in between from '87-97...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCK-201-1520/Application/?prefilter=0

will def peek under a few bimmers next time i'm at the JY

[wooble]

The T fitting I'm using is this one (http://www.revotec.com/details.asp?ID=267), there are probably plenty more makes available with M14x1.5 thread. The BMW switch is handy because there are plenty in the yards and they're easy to get at (find it in the left rad end tank as you look into the bay), it's on most BMWs made in the 90s that have AC. The temp rating of the switch I'm using is Lo on at 90°C, Hi on at 95°C. There are a few different temp ratings of the BMW switch I think for different applications.

[lankytim]

Hey Wooble- Nice to see you over here!

I have a V90 fan with shroud complete with relay wiring which I hope to fit to my 240 soon. This thread has been very useful!

[OKflyboy]

FYI some part numbers and equivalents for the temp switch, 22mm thread for the aftermarket 3 row radiator:

Vernet p/n ??? on 92 off 82
NAPA p/n FS150 on 87, off 82 C (198/188F)
FAE p/n 201-0809 on 87, off 82
Wahler VWW022209 on 87, off 82
-
I'm using the stock Bosch relay dirrectly from the battery, I don't use a fuse, and wonder why anybody would think they need one, as this power control relay is designed to be a fuse in itself, which is the way it was used in the 940.


Incidentally, the NAPA FS150 crosses over to an Autozone SW533. I've been running it for almost a week now and its working great.

[Dakar09]

This 22mm thread is the same found int he nissen radiator no? Upper end tank on passenger side?

[OKflyboy]

This 22mm thread is the same found int he nissen radiator no? Upper end tank on passenger side?

Don't know about the nissen part, but the rest is right.

[tomasss]

The T fitting I'm using is >this one< (http://www.revotec.com/details.asp?ID=267), there are probably plenty more makes available with M14x1.5 thread.
Switch
http://i.imgur.com/mxi3Ql.jpg
Very good find wooble! I was searching a lot, but almost all T pieces has 1/8 NPT thread. So in the end I bought one of these and redrilled/rethreaded the sensor hole.

[thebornotaku]

I'm running the late Volvo 940 dual-speed fan, low speed is at 92c right now (just ordered an 82c switch because 92 is too high), high side is currently unwired but is going to get put on a hard switch in the cockpit.

In the OP, Dave Barton mentions an adjustable temperature switch -- anybody else have any experience or suggestions for this? I would love to be able to fine tune my temperature range rather than spending $25 on a Saab-style switch whenever I want to change the range. Being able to adjust it to match my thermostat and everything would be nice, plus I'm a bit of a control freak.

[eddiec]

anyone familiar with the e-fan from a 99 s-80? just pulled one today and it has a purple wire i am not sure if it gets a voltage signal or some sort of ground.

[Dakar09]

How have the results been with the 3 prong switch listed above (Coolant Fan Switch Temp Rating : No. 1 On At 194 Deg. F., No. 2 On At 207 Deg. F. - Coolant Fan Switch Thread Size : M14 x 1.5")?

I'm planning on running that on a car with an 82* thermostat and really want to keep the install as clean as possible using one switch with that thread pitch.

edit: Holy moses, i found the mother of all 2 speed electric fan switch listings for EU cars...

http://www.adapart.eu/katalog/200.pdf

[Dakar09]

Questionni,

I have a full efan setup from a 940 ready to go in. Modified the shroud, mounted it, relay already wired, etc. Only wires I need to hook up now are the low speed, high speed, and power cable for the rig.

The switch I'm using is a Wahler 2 speed thermo switch from a Porsche 944, terminals marked 1 and 2, and the third terminal has none. Does this get grounded itself to the chassis or can it be left unplugged?

Thanks.

[wooble]

3rd pin should be grounded. the 940 relay works by activating low/high speeds when the appropriate pin on the relay is grounded, in this case via the temperature switch.

[digital.aaron]

Those pics are helpful!

So if I have that exact same setup right now, and am running my low speed to the temp sensor, how would I splice in a cabin-mounted switch that would activate the high speed fan?

Do I just take the high speed wire and put a switch on it then ground, like so?

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8893/volvorelay.jpg

Anybody wanna clarify this for me?


So assuming I rig up something like this as well, the high speed switch would trigger the fan whether the low speed temperature switch had been flipped or not, correct?

[PDX240]

That's the idea yes, and looks good on paper, one thing I noticed in my set-up is that if I trigger the high-speed when the fan is off- i.e. not going low-high but going from off-high, it CAN blow the 30a fuse because it spikes pretty hard kicking it on. Fix=bigger fuse? Or always make sure you are already running on slow before you trigger high speed.
If you are wiring high-speed to a cabin mounted switch, you might consider a 3-position switch, off-low-high so you can manually "warm-up" the fan for a sec before switching to high speed. Also gives more user-control.
EDIT: 5/08/2012 Fan works great, using a Saab T in the bottom hose with an 87/92 for the low speed, and haven't used the high speed yet

Here's some pics of the little 'fitment' issues I ran into when putting a 940 fan in a 240 (sorry it's dirty, but that's how I roll!)

Typical 940 E-fan on typical '86 240 DL radiator.

http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l535/Adavolt/cr3003.jpg

In order to cut it where I wanted to on the opposite side, I ended up notching out for the middle-return hose
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l535/Adavolt/cr3004.jpg

Had to notch the bottom where the core of the radiator meets the end-caps, once on each bottom-corner. Then zip-ties and hay-wire FTW!
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l535/Adavolt/cr3005.jpg
http://i1122.photobucket.com/albums/l535/Adavolt/cr3006.jpg

[digital.aaron]

If I use a 3-way switch, would I still be able to wire the low-speed up to the temp sensor for automated kick-on as well?

[doucheNozzle]

That's the idea yes, and looks good on paper, one thing I noticed in my set-up is that if I trigger the high-speed when the fan is off- i.e. not going low-high but going from off-high, it CAN blow the 30a fuse because it spikes pretty hard kicking it on. Fix=bigger fuse? Or always make sure you are already running on slow before you trigger high speed.
If you are wiring high-speed to a cabin mounted switch, you might consider a 3-position switch, off-low-high so you can manually "warm-up" the fan for a sec before switching to high speed. Also gives more user-control.

I use a Maxi-fuse. Works every time.

[Dakar09]

Or you could just get a wahler 2 speed switch that fits in the radiator.

[doucheNozzle]

Or you could just get a wahler 2 speed switch that fits in the radiator.

After using both I much prefer the SAAB sender in the lower hose.

[klr142]

After using both I much prefer the SAAB sender in the lower hose.Because?

I have a switch in the radiator that comes on at 82C and it holds my temps with the 87C thermostat PERFECT. I love it. Sends the signal to the low speed on the 940 e-fan and life is perfect.

[digital.aaron]

<a target="_blank" href="http://min.us/mvoQVeu#3"><img src="http://i.min.us/jexxCc.jpg" border="0"/></a>


does it matter which side of the switch goes to the ground and which goes to the relay? I have a switch in my radiator, but I can't tell which side is which,

[OldSchoolEuro]

No it does not matter

[Fraktion]

So I finally want to be cool like everyone else, grabbed a relay and some wires from a 940.

However looking at my efan, which was from a s60, it only has two wires going to it, when the fan that the relay was attached to had 3. I read that the red/green are for the different speeds.

Does this mean that my fan is only single speed? I was planning on using the sender in my Nissens for the low speed (possibly swapping for a lower temp one) and then the Saab sender in the lower hose for the high speed.

I would have just grabbed the 940 fan but I am cheap and someone smashed part of the shroud, my s60 one is already trimmed to fit.

Thanks, read this entire thread before, skimmed it again but I'm still kinda unsure.

[Dakar09]

I would definitely lean towards that fan being single speed, but I don't know much about the S60 fans.

[Josh]

Anyone know a place where I can buy the saab t fitting new?

[klr142]

The S60 fan has something else controlling it, or maybe(likely!) something built into it that is controlling the fan speed based on whatever signals it is receiving. It might be better to grab a different fan, Ansel.

[digital.aaron]

Not sure if this was ever mentioned (I sure never saw it anywhere), but if you're removing your fan and fan clutch, please remember to replace the water pump pulley studs, assuming yours has an unthreaded section near the water pump flange. You should replace them with m6x12 cap bolts, otherwise the pulley won't cinch to the flange and you'll end up with something like this:


http://i.imgur.com/8WaPb.jpg

[Fraktion]

The S60 fan has something else controlling it, or maybe(likely!) something built into it that is controlling the fan speed based on whatever signals it is receiving. It might be better to grab a different fan, Ansel.

Boo, well I will probably buy the fan that goes with the relay then when one pops up at the junkyard. I may test it first.

[Manimal]

Ansel, grab some alligator clips and test the fan against your battery, if it spins(and sparks at the batt terminals) when you hook up the wires, then the fan will be fine. Just go to the auto parts store and buy a 5 pin relay socket and relay with 30, 85, 86, and 87 terminals. If it has a 5th 87a terminal, that is fine, you won't use it. You can find those sockets/relays at the jy too, my pockets always end up full of relays and fuses...

Super simple to hook up. The most time consuming part is mounting the fan. I used the + terminal of my coil for my switched 12v source, not sure if that's the best place, but it hasn't failed me yet:rofl:

[impolvo]

just put a 960 efan in the 740,
960 fan and relay
saab T and 92* switch in upper hose-
works great

[audihenry]

Guys,

Got the relay and the fan, but couldn't find the T fitting from a Saab for the life of me. Which models did these come in? Was this in the upper rad hose? Anyone have a photo of what it looks like on a car?

The place I went to mostly had 98+ convertibles and I couldn't find it in any of them, they appeared to be in a different housing closer to the engine. Help! :oops:

[miguel.760ti]

Mostly late 80s 900/9000, its in the upper hose
Posted via Mobile Device

[impolvo]

Mostly late 80s 900/9000, its in the upper hose
Posted via Mobile Device

correct- you can buy generic T fittings though
saab is just cheapest and fits right

[miguel.760ti]

Also look at the side of sensor and make sure it reads 87/82 or 92/87 and not 115/110 before you install it.

[audihenry]

Hey guys,

Thanks for the response. I scoured a couple of local yards and nothing. However, I found this guy on an LS1 forum, seems like it's a good deal mostly because the yard will ask at least half as much for it and it will be used. In addition, you can just drill and tap the other side and have a dual sensor / dual speed setup to allow for a high and low speed setup with the volvo relay block. Much simpler, and only about $13.

I AM NOT AFFILIATED WITH THE GUY AND I HAVEN'T BOUGHT ANYTHING FROM HIM, JUST TRYING TO HELP EVERYONE OUT.

http://stores.ebay.com/Zero-Point-Cooling?_trksid=p4340.l2563

[swedishiron.com]

I sell Saab T-fittings with temp senders for $30 shipped. Plug & play!

[miguel.760ti]

I sell Saab T-fittings with temp senders for $30 shipped. Plug & play!

This works

Or if you have working a/c and want things to be a little cooler you could wire the low speed to a relay triggered by the a/c clutch.

[impolvo]

960 e fan installed in 244, took under an hour, yay!

[dobber13]

I have the fan,shroud and relay out of a 940 and I want to know if there is a rad. fan switch other then the 212 on 202 off is available that pushes into a grommet. I haven't been able to find one ( plugs into grommet) that has a lower temperature setting. Anyone know of one? I would like to use that for the high speed side of the fan and use the low side with a Saab inline sensor or could I use a adjustable temp. relay?

On my 84 244ti some times the original pusher fan will stay on for a short time after shut off. What controls that and will using the 940 set up do the same? I like the idea of the fan staying on after shut down because it also helps cool down of the turbo.

Any thought's on what I want to achieve?

[impolvo]

I have the fan,shroud and relay out of a 940 and I want to know if there is a rad. fan switch other then the 212 on 202 off is available that pushes into a grommet. I haven't been able to find one ( plugs into grommet) that has a lower temperature setting. Anyone know of one? I would like to use that for the high speed side of the fan and use the low side with a Saab inline sensor or could I use a adjustable temp. relay?

On my 84 244ti some times the original pusher fan will stay on for a short time after shut off. What controls that and will using the 940 set up do the same? I like the idea of the fan staying on after shut down because it also helps cool down of the turbo.

Any thought's on what I want to achieve?

i tried to find a push in for my radiator- but ended up using a sab t with a 92 on 87 off switch, on just the High speed setting, but it will work even after the car is off if the coolant temp desires:-P
you can get a jegs inline and tap it for a second switch or 2 saab Ts?
Vw makes some wider ranges of switch
an adjustable is a good option or a radiator fin probe
i have heard of people using a dome light delay relay to run the fan a short time after car cut off

[tryingbe]

I have the fan,shroud and relay out of a 940 and I want to know if there is a rad. fan switch other then the 212 on 202 off is available that pushes into a grommet. I haven't been able to find one ( plugs into grommet) that has a lower temperature setting.

You can set it whatever temperature you want.

http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Inc-3653-Cooling-Control/dp/B000C39C6I/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1310216714&sr=1-2

[dobber13]

i tried to find a push in for my radiator- but ended up using a sab t with a 92 on 87 off switch, on just the High speed setting, but it will work even after the car is off if the coolant temp desires:-P
you can get a jegs inline and tap it for a second switch or 2 saab Ts?
Vw makes some wider ranges of switch
an adjustable is a good option or a radiator fin probe
i have heard of people using a dome light delay relay to run the fan a short time after car cut off

I think I will use the Saab Switch for the low speed and the push in switch for the high speed.

[dobber13]

You can set it whatever temperature you want.

http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Inc-3653-Cooling-Control/dp/B000C39C6I/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1310216714&sr=1-2

I was looking at the Hayden adjustable temp. relays and some had good reviews and some didn't so I'm not sure where to go with that. Are you running the 3653 Hayden? Have you had it in your car for a while?

[dobber13]

What ever way I decide to go with I think I want to put in a LED to show when it's on. Where would you wire it into on the 940 fan relay or fan wiring? I have a hard time trusting relays and electric fans but I like the idea of removing the mechanical fan.
l

[impolvo]

What ever way I decide to go with I think I want to put in a LED to show when it's on. Where would you wire it into on the 940 fan relay or fan wiring? I have a hard time trusting relays and electric fans but I like the idea of removing the mechanical fan.
l

id wire it into
+ to fan(low speed)
and ground between relay and saab t
then another for the high speed


i keep a spare relay in all my e fan cars, but they almost never fail , and ive never had a fan die, but have had em get noisy and replaced it cause the bearings were getting noisy

[klr142]

For those people that have a two speed fan and are using the high speed setting, have you ever tried NOT using the high speed setting at all and not had good results?

I know on my measly N/A 240, the low speed is more than sufficient at all times that I've experienced, thus far. Then again, the car still has the factory pusher fan as well that comes on above a certain temp with the A/C, I think.

To the person with an '84 240 turbo in the recent posts, there is no factory pusher fan on your car, to my knowledge. It sounds like someone already equipped your car with an e-fan of sorts to help keep it cool, or improve A/C operation. :)

[impolvo]

For those people that have a two speed fan and are using the high speed setting, have you ever tried NOT using the high speed setting at all and not had good results?

I know on my measly N/A 240, the low speed is more than sufficient at all times that I've experienced, thus far. Then again, the car still has the factory pusher fan as well that comes on above a certain temp with the A/C, I think.

yes i have and it worked fine but stayed on longer

[excessive101]

I know I'm missing something because the fan will only turn on when I have the + on the temp switch grounded.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y221/excessive101/FANWIRING.png

As this point, I'm ready to put the clutch fan back on until I can figure this out.

I pulled the fan setup out of a late 960.

[impolvo]

I know I'm missing something because the fan will only turn on when I have the + on the temp switch grounded.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y221/excessive101/FANWIRING.png

As this point, I'm ready to put the clutch fan back on until I can figure this out.

I pulled the fan setup out of a late 960.

i think i might see your problem-- 1-and 2 on the relay must ground to turn on
therefore the temp switch must ground

#2 is high speed

so relay 2--- to one prong on the temp switch-- the other prong on the switch to ground

assuming its a 2 prong switch-- if not then 3rd prong ground
if 3 prong then 1- to lower temp, 2 to upper

[joereese2]

For those people that have a two speed fan and are using the high speed setting, have you ever tried NOT using the high speed setting at all and not had good results?

I know on my measly N/A 240, the low speed is more than sufficient at all times that I've experienced, thus far. Then again, the car still has the factory pusher fan as well that comes on above a certain temp with the A/C, I think.

To the person with an '84 240 turbo in the recent posts, there is no factory pusher fan on your car, to my knowledge. It sounds like someone already equipped your car with an e-fan of sorts to help keep it cool, or improve A/C operation. :)

The factory Intercooled cars with a/c had a pusher fan installed as well as a full throttle a/c cutoff switch , I have swiped that whole setup several times over the years from those 84 models :)

[klr142]

The factory Intercooled cars with a/c had a pusher fan installed as well as a full throttle a/c cutoff switch , I have swiped that whole setup several times over the years from those 84 models :)
Sweet!

[Redwood Chair]

E fans suck on turbo cars.

Get a tropical fan clutch.

[Jorn]

E fans suck on turbo cars.

Get a tropical fan clutch.

Why is that?

[Redwood Chair]

Heat soak from the turbo.

[rightpedal]

wtf heat soak from the turbo? what does that mean?

and where does one acquire said "tropical fan clutch"?!lol

[wooble]

Heat soak is when the radiated and conducted heat from the turbo heats the rest of the engine bay to the point that performance is affected, especially the cylinder head, intake manifold and intercooler. The idea is that a mechanical fan keeps a constant stream of cooler air moving through the engine bay at all times, keeping underhood temperatures lower and more consistent, versus an electric fan which runs intermittently, allowing heat to build up in the engine bay.

The tropical fan clutch is for the standard mechanical fan intended for vehicles used in hotter climates, volvo part no. 1357433. I don't know that much about it, but I'd imagine it allows less slip and hold a higher fan speed than the standard clutch.

[Redwood Chair]

wtf heat soak from the turbo? what does that mean?

and where does one acquire said "tropical fan clutch"?!lol

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=242100

Or on a later 940 turbo.

http://i255.photobucket.com/albums/hh136/redwoodchair/240%20Turbo%20Parts/240HDFanClutch1.jpg

[klr142]

I thought all 940s had e-fans just like every other Volvo from 1992 and newer?

[miguel.760ti]

All 92+ 7/9 had e-fans. As far as I know the tropical clutch was optional, but not standard on anything.

[wooble]

I guess it depends on the market, as a far as I know the e-fan wasn't standard on the 940 until later in production over here -I had a '94 940 with a mech fan on it from the factory. I have no idea if the fan clutch was the HD kind, though.

[Fraktion]

Also look at the side of sensor and make sure it reads 87/82 or 92/87 and not 115/110 before you install it.

derp missed this part, the one I got at the jy is 115/110...

[PDX240]

For those people that have a two speed fan and are using the high speed setting, have you ever tried NOT using the high speed setting at all and not had good results?
. :)

- I swapped a 940 Efan/shroud/relay in to my 240 (NA 1986)and just hooked up the low speed to a 87C T-fitting in the lower hose. I haven't needed the high speed yet at all, my temps hover right at the sweet spot. Although I rarely sit in traffic on hot days or any of that mess, if I can help it that is.. And there is no AC in the car.
derp missed this part, the one I got at the jy is 115/110...
I think you can use the one in the top of the HD radiators (it's an 87C-92C), which can be found throughout the yards if you don't have one in place already.

[klr142]

I think you can use the one in the top of the HD radiators (it's an 87C-92C), which can be found throughout the yards if you don't have one in place already.That one allows the car to get too hot before it kicks on. If you were building a car for fuel efficiency and were able to run it that hot with a higher temp thermostat(I typically run an 87 degree), then it might work, but for normal use having it kick on that late can allow detonation if your car is set up pretty aggressively. It'll be over halfway up the gauge before it turns on. I use the 82/87 switch in that location and it works GREAT.

[impolvo]

92-87 works great in my cars

[Fraktion]

That one allows the car to get too hot before it kicks on. If you were building a car for fuel efficiency and were able to run it that hot with a higher temp thermostat(I typically run an 87 degree), then it might work, but for normal use having it kick on that late can allow detonation if your car is set up pretty aggressively. It'll be over halfway up the gauge before it turns on. I use the 82/87 switch in that location and it works GREAT.

Would that be ok for the high speed though?

[cantorhome]

Good timing, I just picked up an electric fan to install in my '91 940se (turbo). I'm hearing from the discussion here that maybe it's a bad idea to put an electric fan in a turbo? Where I live in San Diego it reaches 100 degrees a few times each summer, and I use the a/c. My car severely lacks power, and I'm doing everything I can to boost power (don't ask, I've already tried everything to get it back to stock power before mod'ing it). I know the electric fan will improve fuel efficiency, but also improve power a bit I imagine?

[klr142]

Would that be ok for the high speed though?Yes, as long as you have something else triggering the low speed at a more appropriate temperature. It would at least keep you from blowing the motor due to forgetting to turn on a switch if you don't actually wire it up to come on automatically. :)

The downside to running straight high speed over using the low speed first is that it puts a pretty good strain on the wiring/relay/fuse when it goes from being off to high speed. It may not be a big deal, but still.Good timing, I just picked up an electric fan to install in my '91 940se (turbo). I'm hearing from the discussion here that maybe it's a bad idea to put an electric fan in a turbo? Where I live in San Diego it reaches 100 degrees a few times each summer, and I use the a/c. My car severely lacks power, and I'm doing everything I can to boost power (don't ask, I've already tried everything to get it back to stock power before mod'ing it). I know the electric fan will improve fuel efficiency, but also improve power a bit I imagine?I'd put an e-fan on anything. If you're worried about it not cooling well/constantyl, just have it turn on all the time with the ignition on and wire up the high speed as a back-up that comes on with a higher temperature. Heat soak can be avoided by wiring the fan to a switch inside the car in addition to having an actual forced on by temperature switch. Or, don't bother because it'll be ok anyway as long as you have the fan kick on soon enough. Or, do bother because you want to be anal about keeping the engine compartment cool all the time. Or, just wire the low speed to come on with the ignition all the time and high speed off a switch as previously mentioned.

I don't live in a hot climate, but all new Volvos come only with e-fans that are NOT on all the time. If you use the A/C, the fans will typically run, but not even all the time, still.

[HonestJhon]

so i have a flexalite lowboy 16" in the stock mechanical fan shroud on my 940 (yes 91 940's came with mechanical fans)

my only issue with this fan is quality.

problem is fitment requires a thin fan...
dont really want to ditch the NPR and change over to the later radiator...just wish there was a good thin fan that fit between the radiator and the waterpump pulley.