E-fan wiring, is mine correct?

[lunar240z]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y98/hansonicochico/fanwire.jpg

Does the polarity on the saab switch matter?

The fan works when I wire it directly, I just finished wiring it in and haven't gone for a drive yet. I ran it for a little bit and got it just up to operating temp but the fan hasn't turned on yet. I didn't run it for very long though

[Morley]

100% correct. Yes there are no polarity issues on the SAAB switch.

[lunar240z]

Went on a test drive. Fan works. BAAAAAYYYBAY!

The car felt a little but lighter. :) I'm going to testing it much more thoroughly tomorrow. :nod:

[tryingbe]

Unless you're using a Maxi Fuse, take the fuse out.

30A regular fuse is going to burn out.

[towerymt]

I've run a 30A blade fuse inline with my 940 e-fan for a few years and it does not blow during normal use. I only run the low speed.

[Bones]

Where does it connect to the ignition?

[lunar240z]

It's wired straight to the battery, it stays on maybe 10sec after the car is off so it's not really a problem. If it does become a problem I can always change it.

[Volvo Heretic]

I need to fix my nightmare cooling contraption. Is the Saab temp. sensor the way to go or do i want an adjustable one? My two Subaru elect. fans are wired in parallel with 8 gauge wire through a Ford remote starter relay. I have a VW rabbit temp switch plumbed into the cold side of the radiator that doesn't turn the fans on until the thing is boiling over. (thats how the VW one was plumbed that I copied and I don't rember the on/off temperatures)

I hooked up a switch so I could just turn it on when I want. If I run it for a long time, it seems to be draining the battery and the car starts to run badly. I think that whatever size of Delco altenator I put in isn't big enough. Are those fans each as big as 30 amps or 60 total?

[Bones]

Another question about your wiring diagram, for the left and middle side on the 850 relay (looking at it from the front), there's two wires, and the right side has one. What are the extra wires on the left and middle side for?

[JE Jr]

www.facet.it is a manufacturer of for example temp switches, has a complete listing on their webpage that includes switching temp, wiring, and threads used etc.

"lingua" is language.

In Sweden we buy their parts from the auto parts store next door, don't know if it is the same in US?

[lunar240z]

Another question about your wiring diagram, for the left and middle side on the 850 relay (looking at it from the front), there's two wires, and the right side has one. What are the extra wires on the left and middle side for?

Controlling a second speed on the fan

My fan has only 1 speed so I took them out. some people wire the second temp sender wire to the overheat pusher fan on 7's, not sure if 240s had those, or you could run the high speed to a switch in the car if you so desired.

a 2speed fan would have 3 wires coming out of it. 1 you ground, and the other two would be set up to the 2 wires coming from the relay

[Bones]

Ah.

How would you feel like drawing a diagram for using a high / low speed fan? My car came stock with the relay and two speed fan, and was controlled by the ECU up till I switched to an older ECU- so it's no longer controlled by the ECU, hence I have to wire it anew.

I'd love a simple two speed fan diagram, I'm sure it would be useful to others like me who are scared about messing up wiring.

Also, what temp SAAB sensor are you using? 75/70? 82/77? 92/87? And it's in the lower radiator hose, right?

Thanks for all the info!

[24DinCT]

Also, what temp SAAB sensor are you using? 75/70? 82/77? 92/87? And it's in the lower radiator hose, right?

Thanks for all the info!

If I remember right I used the 82/77 switch in the lower hose. Using a single speed fan off of a single SPDT relay. One side of Saab switch to ground...other side to relay for activation. Also wired in a factory 2XX A?C switch in the dash to turn the fan on if I wanted. This setup keeps my temp gauge a c-hair above dead-center. The little light inside the switch in the dash turns on when the fan kicks on. Now no-one bite off of me:-P

[lunar240z]

Ah.

How would you feel like drawing a diagram for using a high / low speed fan? My car came stock with the relay and two speed fan, and was controlled by the ECU up till I switched to an older ECU- so it's no longer controlled by the ECU, hence I have to wire it anew.

I'd love a simple two speed fan diagram, I'm sure it would be useful to others like me who are scared about messing up wiring.

Also, what temp SAAB sensor are you using? 75/70? 82/77? 92/87? And it's in the lower radiator hose, right?

Thanks for all the info!


Yea it's in the lower rad hose. It's a bit of a tight squeeze down there though.

I don't remember the temp offhand. It's the one that comes in the SAAB radiator, not the one thats in the hose. I just asked for the SAAB radiator temp sensor at kragen.

A two speed diagram wouldn't look much different.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y98/hansonicochico/fanwire-1.jpg

[Bitchinvolvo]

why not just wire it to your fuse box to run constant with the car being on?

[Mr.Borrie]

what are the values the saab temp switch gives.. mine seems dead ?

[lunar240z]

why not just wire it to your fuse box to run constant with the car being on?

It doesn't need to be on all the time.

what are the values the saab temp switch gives.. mine seems dead ?

You could try testing a circuit with the sensor in some hot water maybe.

[Mr.Borrie]

You could try testing a circuit with the sensor in some hot water maybe.

Yeah does not work but i guess i'm doing it wrong

[Morley]

why not just wire it to your fuse box to run constant with the car being on?

Cause then the point of the e-fan would be lost.

[24DinCT]

what are the values the saab temp switch gives.. mine seems dead ?

Yeah does not work but i guess i'm doing it wrong

The Saab radiator temperature switches are a normally open type of switch. Which basically means when it is not at it's activation temperature...the switches internal circuit is open...meaning there is no continuity between it's 2 poles. When the temperature gets hot enough the internal circuit closes and causes continuity between the 2 poles, completing the circuit and thusly kicking your e-fan on.

The switch that normally comes in that Saab T housing is for the A/C cutoof and is a normally closed switch...which you do not want....mine was red in color(A/C) and I ditched it.

To do a basic test on a Saab switch...get a digital multimeter and put its 2 probes on the sensors 2 poles on top. Place the sensor in a pot of water on the stove with a thermometer and turn on the heat to high. Once the proper temperature of the water is reached...the multimeter will show that the switch has continuity between it's poles(my multimeter beeps as long as there is continuity). Double check that the temp activated is the temp stamped on the side of the switch. If not the right temp...your car could overheat before it kicks the fan on.

Some people on here are using the "stock" Saab temp switch for e-fan activation, but I found a lower temp sensor kept my coolant temps just a tiny bit over the halfway mark in the cluster gauge. I'd have to take a look and see exactly what sensor I am using. I have the little box for it lying around somewhere.

[Ursan]

It's wired straight to the battery, it stays on maybe 10sec after the car is off so it's not really a problem. If it does become a problem I can always change it.

Ten seconds? Does it have an internal timer or something that detects voltage drop?

What gauge wire should be used on the #30 (power)terminal? #10? #8?

[JohnMc]

If you have A/C, you'll want the fan on when the compressor is on as well.

Otherwise it will overheat the condensor and will vent out the pressure relief.

Like mine did when I was first goofing around with it.

PS: I like it to cycle on a few times with the key off. Helps prevent boil over on a hot shutoff, helps cool things down under the hood for less hood paint baking. So on mine I wired it to constant 12V. The A/C compressor and MS manage the low speed circuit, which won't ever come on with the key off. But the rad temp sensor is a dumb switch that runs the high speed, it will cycle a time or two if it's hot. It's a good thing.

[lunar240z]

Ten seconds? Does it have an internal timer or something that detects voltage drop?

What gauge wire should be used on the #30 (power)terminal? #10? #8?

I think its probably just that the temp drops and the sensor stops the circuit.

I used wire that was the same thickness as the other power wires. I just had some lying around.

[yama]

what are the values the saab temp switch gives.. mine seems dead ?


Normally open.(high resistance) closes when it reaches a certain temperature.(zero resistance)
When I pulled a Saab setup from the yard the sensor was dead.


Replaced it with this:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=4086708

[F1reBird]

Normally open.(high resistance) closes when it reaches a certain temperature.(zero resistance)
When I pulled a Saab setup from the yard the sensor was dead.


Replaced it with this:

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=4086708

if i get that ^ is there a stock location i could thread it on?

also.. i have a 960 relay.. looks the same except the 1 2 on the box i is 2 1 ( so im assumign it'll be the same except the 2 1 are on diff sides)

i was about to go to pep boys and pick up one of these
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/hda-3652_w.jpg
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HDA-3652&N=700+4294860934+115&autoview=sku
but now that i'm thinking about it.. iono how i would wire it...

[yama]

if i get that ^ is there a stock location i could thread it on?

also.. i have a 960 relay.. looks the same except the 1 2 on the box i is 2 1 ( so im assumign it'll be the same except the 2 1 are on diff sides)

i was about to go to pep boys and pick up one of these
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/hda-3652_w.jpg
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=HDA-3652&N=700+4294860934+115&autoview=sku
but now that i'm thinking about it.. iono how i would wire it...


I grabbed a saab temperature sensor housing at the yard and spliced it into the lower radiator hose. If you don't have a local yard it looks like you can find them on EBAY. This is just an example, you would need to get the correct housing for sensor and hose diameter. I used a 940 fan control relay. Low speed is controlled via sensor like your diagram and high speed via a dash mounted toggle switch.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WATER-TEMPERATURE-SENSOR-ADAPTER-36MM-1-42_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el1262Q QcategoryZ33602QQihZ010QQitemZ200315834718#ebaypho tohosting

[BDKR]

why not just wire it to your fuse box to run constant with the car being on?

Pulling that kind of voltage from the fuse box isn't very smart.

Now OTOH, if you are talking about using a relay, then it's another story.

But still, the fan doesn't need to be on all the time anyway. Here is what I did for the wiring.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=3158&stc=1&d=1179770502

And I use this fan/shroud combo.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/der-16926_w.jpg

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DER-16926&view=16383&N=700+