'Ncase you was wonderin

[EricF]

Between working around the clock to help keep the company on its feet (it is Sunday afternoon, I am at my desk, answering e-mails and doing paperwork), having an offer on a house and actively trying to get it to go through, house and multiple pet-sitting, and all the other silly little projects the day tends to present you randomly, I have had little time to work on what I've started.

A couple of weeks ago I started tearing into the 850, got it up on jackstands and prepared to do some serious work to it.

There it sat, lots of things partially unbolted, until the following weekend's Saturday night where I caught another couple hours to work on it. Then last night I got another shot at doing things. I also found my camera, so here's the update.

Emptiness becomes the 850.... And after a couple cans of pblaster, engine degreaser, and 3 cans of brakleen, it still looks dirty and cluttered :lol:
http://www.pbase.com/image/112086127/original.jpg

Past and future occupant of the space, still dirty
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086130/original.jpg

Inside's all tore up and coming along
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086133/original.jpg

Out with the old (btw on a pallet and for sale if anyone's interested. Shifted like butter I tell you! Hundred bucks picked up, or 100 plus you pay a trucking company to come pick it up and whisk it away, we have a loading dock here.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086136/original.jpg

In with the new
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086137/original.jpg

Sweet ass downpipe/wastegate setup. Too leaky, going away in favor of my ATP internal gate. If anyone wants the piping and flanges (going to hack off the first 10 inches of the downpipe and replace it with straight 3" terminated in a nice v-band flange), let me know.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086139/original.jpg

Sad face :(
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086141/original.jpg
We'll see how much Turbonetics charges to fix it.

Home made angle-outlet flange, so now all the blue car needs a foot or two of pipin and some weldin. Then it's back on the road.. (by the way)
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086142/original.jpg

Nice clutch, PP, and new throwout bearing.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086147/original.jpg

Scene of the crime
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086150/original.jpg

Another angle of the mess
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086151/original.jpg

Oh but what is this?
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086153/original.jpg

Spaghetti
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086155/original.jpg

Spaghetti posing for a picture
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086157/original.jpg

How it's going to talk to me
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112086159/original.jpg

So I still need to resurface the flywheel (was planning on sticking some 150 grit sandpaper on a slab of granite or something but couldn't find any), drop the pan on the engine and replace all the o-rings and crap I can get to, hopefully encountering my loss of initial startup oil pressure along the way, run the wiring for the standalone, get an IAT sensor, hang the pedal assembly and hydraulic shiz, and I guess just put it all back together. Next weekend is a possible finish date, but I think more realistically I will just get the engine/trans in and get bogged down in all the little things before Sunday's over.

Anyway, that's what's going on in my neck of the woods. House is a 10,000+ sq ft waterfront ocean access lot in Hollywood FL, with a huge tiki hut, a 1400 sq ft 2/1 house, a 1 car garage that opens into the backyard as well as the driveway, no code enforcement or homeowner's association, and lots of resident iguanas.

Have a good week!

[fige]

mmmm spaghetti

[volvo 4 life]

Looks good, how much power are you going for?

[JustFord0099]

looks good Eric, when are you havin the house party!?

[GabAlmighty]

oulala, that's pretty

[MikeJr.]

Are you gonna tune the Vems yourself?

[EricF]

Thanks guys!

Looks good, how much power are you going for?

Eh I dunno. 300 whp is a number that sticks out, we'll see. I think 320 whp should be possible but I'd be happy with 280.

looks good Eric, when are you havin the house party!?

Gotta get the house first :-P

Are you gonna tune the Vems yourself?

Yes, a bit. Then I'll probably get some dyno time. I think I know of a load-holding dyno about 20 minutes away... But not sure if I'll tune this longblock to that level.

[amargill19?]

omg RWD conversion?

[narancs]

a whole lot of fun :lol:
I'm curious about the VEMS. What I know so far that the documentation is horrid. :wtf:

So I'm sticking with MS for a while, which hasn't arrived since february :-(

What wideband are you using?

[Captain Bondo]

Cool man- any details on the clutch?

I hate to say it but my R clutch blows.

[EricF]

Cool man- any details on the clutch?

I hate to say it but my R clutch blows.

This is the R... I should have taken a picture of it side by side with the PP and clutch used in my old 19T setup that saw all the track abuse and was trapping in the 105-107+ range consistently. The PP is obviously much more stout, and the clutch is way way beefier.

I only ever used an R in my car once before, and it was with the 104-105 trap T3/T04E stg 3 / 57 trim turbo setup with the higher redline, and it did get a lot of abuse on the track as well with drag radials, but not quite as much as the 19T setup. I will tell you that the big turbo setup was around 300 whp though for sure.

What is going on with yours? Engagement issue, holding issue?

[Captain Bondo]

What is going on with yours? Engagement issue, holding issue?

It's just a typical volvo clutch. You can't just take your foot off the clutch and hit the loud pedal, it's like you're waiting for the clutch pedal to return to full height and everything to re-engage all the time.

I only have 250 miles on it, maybe it'll get better, I doubt it. I just hate the slow pedal return/engagement. When you release the clutch pedal the pedal should "snap" back up IMO, volvo clutches just don't do that and I find it less than confidence inspiring.

I am intentionally avoiding beating it for a little while still, but it really feels like it would slip on a quick 2-3 or 3-4 shift. I instinctively/automatically back off the throttle and wait a split second before getting on it, because it doesn't feel like it wants to hold right away.

It's silky smooth though. With a 50% over pressure plate it'd be sweet.

[EricF]

It's just a typical volvo clutch. You can't just take your foot off the clutch and hit the loud pedal, it's like you're waiting for the clutch pedal to return to full height and everything to re-engage all the time.

I only have 250 miles on it, maybe it'll get better, I doubt it. I just hate the slow pedal return/engagement. When you release the clutch pedal the pedal should "snap" back up IMO, volvo clutches just don't do that and I find it less than confidence inspiring.

I am intentionally avoiding beating it for a little while still, but it really feels like it would slip on a quick 2-3 or 3-4 shift. I instinctively/automatically back off the throttle and wait a split second before getting on it, because it doesn't feel like it wants to hold right away.

It's silky smooth though. With a 50% over pressure plate it'd be sweet.

Are you using new clutch master/slave cylinders? How well is it all bled out? I absolutely loved the characteristics of all the M56 clutches I've owned. FWIW the 244's stock turbo 8.5" clutch prefers to have a very very fast shift rather than a slow one :) Sometimes it slips a tad if I shift real slow in a WOT pull.

[Captain Bondo]

Master is new, slave is rebuilt. It could potentially use another bleed though. I'll try that!

Also the master ends up way at the far most extent of its travel when I press the clutch, I left it becuase I figured once everything bedded in a bit that wouldn't be the case, but it still is. So there's some shimming and general pissing about I could do there...

:cheers: sorry for the threadjack

[Volvorules]

When you release the clutch pedal the pedal should "snap" back up IMO, volvo clutches just don't do that and I find it less than confidence inspiring.

Weird, my cable clutch snaps right back up....:-D

Back OT, good work Eric, get that beast back together ASAP!

[Lord_Athlon]

Weird, my cable clutch snaps right back up....:-D

Back OT, good work Eric, get that beast back together ASAP!
Mine does too.

[Captain Bondo]

Not with a stock pressure plate they don't.

[Lord_Athlon]

Mine snaps up far faster than the accelerator.

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

Mine does too.

must be a 240 thing....

[84 Blue 240]

Mine snaps up far faster than the accelerator.

Mine snaps up plenty fast too!

[EricF]

Engine/Transmission are hooked up and ready to go back in, pending a new rear mount as turns out mine was cracked. Ran the wiring through the firewall for the EMS, mounted the ECU... Have also done the hydraulics for the clutch since last post.

So, need to drop the engine/tranny back in still, hang the brake/clutch pedal ass'y, bolt everything back together and plug it all in.

I did sand down the leading edges of the turbo's compressor fins and put it all back together. It's the older series of Turbonetics CBB turbo with the larger diameter turbine wheel shaft (it's a 5/8" nut on the turbine wheel, they're normally what... 1/2"?) and larger CHRA bearings. Given the much larger mass in the turbine wheel/shaft than normal, I figure it will be a small enough overall balance issue that it will last at least for awhile until I figure something else out. Also if you went by journal bearing standards, the shaft play is pretty nominal. Whatever, we'll see :lol:

Edit: Pedals hung, mount fixed.

[740Weapon]

It's just a typical volvo clutch. You can't just take your foot off the clutch and hit the loud pedal, it's like you're waiting for the clutch pedal to return to full height and everything to re-engage all the time.

I only have 250 miles on it, maybe it'll get better, I doubt it. I just hate the slow pedal return/engagement. When you release the clutch pedal the pedal should "snap" back up IMO, volvo clutches just don't do that and I find it less than confidence inspiring.

I am intentionally avoiding beating it for a little while still, but it really feels like it would slip on a quick 2-3 or 3-4 shift. I instinctively/automatically back off the throttle and wait a split second before getting on it, because it doesn't feel like it wants to hold right away.

It's silky smooth though. With a 50% over pressure plate it'd be sweet.

My father insists that most hydraulic clutch systems have a bleeder orifice somewhere in the system to delay clutch engagement to keep the shifts super smooth regardless of the idiot driving. he also insists this orifice is the reason why clutches wear out.

sounds like you need to do some diging and make a 'shift kit' for your manual transmission.

[linuxman51]

it also lessens the severity of driveline shock.

A lot of honda people keep them or make them a bit more restrictive on the high hp cars so the transmissions don't explode on the first pass (rather, the 5th or maybe 6th pass)

[EricF]

Woke up in time to do some work before rib cookin today.

Engine had been painted ...poorly. Aluminum ceramic high heat header paint.
http://www.pbase.com/image/112948274/large.jpg

Up she goes, after syncing the cam wheel as needed for the VEMS and doing other misc ****.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112948276/large.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112948278/large.jpg

I've now put an engine/trans combo into an 850 3 times by myself, and it still damn well sucks.

After much raising, adjusting, and re-lowering: Ahh, like a glove.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112948282/large.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112948284/large.jpg

Somehow I forgot to put the damn VR plug of the harness through the firewall, so next time I need to get that done.

I so badly wanted to get the shifter cables hooked up so I could sit in the car and shift through the gears, but alas, the rubber bushings put up more than 5 seconds of fight and I've got brass bushings and ribs waiting to be cooked.

I did, however, manage to tend to the flatness (or lack thereof) of the ATP internal gate.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/112948280/large.jpg

It is still not totally flat, if I have time at work tomorrow I'll dick with it some more. It's getting there though!

Anyway that's what's going on. Looks like the Karl Buchka harness reaches everywhere it needs to and need not be hacked up to lengthen in any place that I can foresee. Joy.

Happy Memorial Day, go get sunburnt and drunk.

[Alex Buchka]

Looking awesome Eric. Can't wait to see how it runs with the VEMS.

[Captain Bondo]

Ouch, you install 850 motors from above? I can imagine that sucking. I have always dropped them out the bottom and reinstalled in the same fashion, but then again the car was always on a hoist. I guess it might be hard to raise the car high enough without one... :-(


BTW I discovered that the clevis that attaches my clutch pedal to the master cylinder is actually on a threaded adjuster. I threaded out the clevis and got an extra ~1/4" of master cylinder travel and the R clutch feels really good now. :rofl:

VEMS FTW. Awesome man.

[EricF]

Thanks Alex! We shall see...

Ouch, you install 850 motors from above? I can imagine that sucking. I have always dropped them out the bottom and reinstalled in the same fashion, but then again the car was always on a hoist. I guess it might be hard to raise the car high enough without one... :-(

Yeah, I've seen one person do it that way with floor jacks, and it was scary to say the least (lots of concrete blocks and the car at about 30-40 degrees off the ground :o )


BTW I discovered that the clevis that attaches my clutch pedal to the master cylinder is actually on a threaded adjuster. I threaded out the clevis and got an extra ~1/4" of master cylinder travel and the R clutch feels really good now. :rofl:

VEMS FTW. Awesome man.

Sweet! I thought there had to be something a little fishy the way yours was set up. I have always really enjoyed my 850 clutches and transmissions. Just for people reading, the 850 master cylinder is totally different, just a solid plastic lever that attaches to the pedal.

I am excited for the VEMS, I'm trying to be methodical with wiring and setup so I can have a clean turn-key setup the first time around.

Anyway, more next time :cheers:

[Slobodan]

I have always done whiteblocks from above like any other car. no problem quick and painless.

[Nick]

If nothing else, this is the most professional anything you've ever done has looked. Great shop. If this wasn't at work for you, I'd expect to see a ****load of empty beer cans, and progress would be at a standstill.

[EricF]

OK...

So, I'd gotten all the **** put back where it belongs, most of the bolts and clamps and wires back where they belong, had to improvise some new bolts from the hardware store to make up for some that apparently walked off over the last few months. New serp belt, new fluids, battery and tray back in, wiring mostly buttoned up.

Time to start. Nothing! I spy a 4 gauge ground wire hanging an inch away from a boss right under the starter. Doh.. .Hard to get to, so substitute a wire on the valve cover. Still nothing. Reconnect the OEM ground, still nothing.

Oh, what's this? I forgot the whole ****ing purpose of taking this car off the road was primarily to swap it from an automatic. Automatics only let you start in park and neutral. What's that? The PNP selector switch is still bolted to the old auto tranny? Son of a $%&$#^#&$!

Plugged the damn thing in, now the car cranks, has fuel pressure and cranking oil pressure, VEMS is seeing RPM (as long as cranking RPM is like 150-160)...

Have to re-seat the driver's side axle as half the trans oil escaped from the inexplicable gap, add a little more oil, do some finishing touches on the wiring and put the injector and ignitor fuses back in, then start the bad larry up!

Anyway, that's my Friday night. Pictures to come tomorrow perhaps.

Remember kids: Whenever you get too into a project, and you are strapping your brain for the most oddball explanations you can to explain something seemingly inexplicable, step back and have a beer (or 12), and approach the situation as a (drunken) outsider. Success is soon to follow you!

[EricF]

Car's done, going to start it in the morning when I can be methodical and rested...

[norcal505]

awesome.
videos and pics must ensue!

[Captain Bondo]

Sweet!

And hey it's 1pm your time! Videoz!

[iEatBrains]

I think I screwed up the cam timing, not getting any start. Plug I pulled was dry too so I'm thinking RPM signal woes.. Back at it soon though :)

[linuxman51]

you guys need to work out the computer thing.

[iEatBrains]

you guys need to work out the computer thing.

Comcast just visited the house so I'm posting from Leah's laptop... It's plugged directly into our cable modem at the moment, everything else is boxed up :rofl:

Anyway, I guess RPM signal is fine if 150-160 is normal for a fully loaded whiteblock.

The plug I pulled was dry though, so I am not quite sure what else could kill the fuel (and presumably spark).

[Captain Bondo]

I wouldn't call 150-160 fast, but it's not abnormal.

Remember that below the "cranking rpm" (usually around 300) the injectors are just firing at a fixed pulsewidth, so even if the rpm signal sucks, if it's enough signal that it's turning the fuel pump on, and the cranking pulsewidth is a reasonable amount of time, it should try to fire.

Do you have a test light you connect to an injector plug to verify they're getting a pulse? Assuming that basics like the fuel pump is coming on etc...

[EricF]

I wouldn't call 150-160 fast, but it's not abnormal.

Remember that below the "cranking rpm" (usually around 300) the injectors are just firing at a fixed pulsewidth, so even if the rpm signal sucks, if it's enough signal that it's turning the fuel pump on, and the cranking pulsewidth is a reasonable amount of time, it should try to fire.

Do you have a test light you connect to an injector plug to verify they're getting a pulse? Assuming that basics like the fuel pump is coming on etc...

I'm about to do some diagnosing with the multimeter. Also, I have an in-cabin fuel gauge and left the fuel pump wiring stock, the rail pressure is good/there.

Guess I need to check voltage across one of the injector pigtails... Don't think anything's going to be there though.

[EricF]

So today I had to leave for a week in Tampa at 4 a.m... Leaving from the office, I got there a half hour early to dick with the car. I had been a-thinkin.

I knew my dangum cam synching was correct. What else could it be?

It was those dang Swedes and their purty pre-made harness that looked so damn nice I didn't even think twice of it after I'd plugged it all in.

Turns out that the cyl#1 and cyl#2 ignitor pigtails were reversed (the correct way was counterintuitive to me... should have ****ing asked Karl!). Switched them around, and it started right up. Reqfuel was way off though and the laptop was dead. More when I return from Tampa...

[TurboBrickMan]

Glad to hear it runs man.

[EricF]

http://www.pbase.com/image/116331398/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116331399/original.jpg

Ran it for awhile last night, ran through a few gears on the jackstands. Had visions of Ferris Bueller's day off...

Realized I need to plumb the PCV to stop faint oil puffs out of the tailpipe, wire up the coolant fan with an independent circuit, and do the same thing for the fuel pump. Motronic will prime the fuel pump and then shut it off. I jumpered the stock relay pigtail with a wire so I could run the car a bit. Runs and revs buttery smooth. Camera died in the middle of a video, sue me! So we get one picture and one video thumbnail.

[The Aspirator]

What the heck kind of blow off valve is that? That thing looks weird.

[EricF]

What the heck kind of blow off valve is that? That thing looks weird.

Sard R2-D2 :lol:

Sounds a lot like a Greddy Type S, but a little cooler IMO. A little crisper... Video to come obviously :)

[EricF]

So I drove it around today.

Had to make a circuit for the coolant fan and for the fuel pump, had to plumb a PCV to cut down on blue smoke. I think 850s are horrible about crankcase pressure...

Also, I realized my serp. belt was riding off two of the pulleys. I realized that the idler pulley was pushed out a bit because there was a stud underneath it that was jutting into it. Turns out it needs to screw into it... Had to take off all the accessories to get it corrected.

Car drives very nicely, I must say VEMS is at least as smooth as Motronic. The idle was at first only at 500 RPM. It was rock solid at 500-510 RPM... That's impressive! Turned it up to 900.

It did seem to have a stalling issue, I'm not sure what's going on there. The car was only at 4 psi, so it was underwhelming.

I parked it back in the office though, because the power windows aren't working, the front brakes decided to make themselves horrendous after a mile or so, and there is something goofy with the shifter.

Any 850/70 guys:
On the M56 shifter, there is the delrin/plastic retainer piece that goes over the shifter ball, and this holds it down. Mine is flying about, and as I result I can't get into first or second without lifting up the shifter boot and holding it down. Are there clips to hold this down, or is it a bolt or something?


So far, I'm impressed. The car is buttery smooth, I have a feeling one or two of the plugs are very fouled though as it has an intermittent stumble at idle.

Pics and videos once I find my camera battery charger :)

Thanks for the help/opinions throughout this process :cheers:

[Karl Buchka]

That's how ****ing awesome I am at tuning.

[EricF]

That's how ****ing awesome I am at tuning.

Now now, I hadn't had the wideband hooked up or anything... At 12-14 psi with the wideband and a little more driving, we'll see ;)

Why do you suppose the thing stalls when I come off the throttle in second and push the clutch in? Idle's at about 900. You didn't use an IAC did you?

[Karl Buchka]

Now now, I hadn't had the wideband hooked up or anything... At 12-14 psi with the wideband and a little more driving, we'll see ;)

Why do you suppose the thing stalls when I come off the throttle in second and push the clutch in? Idle's at about 900. You didn't use an IAC did you?

If you had bought my injectors you would be pretty home free, but you just had to cheap out.

I did not have an idle motor. Is it a 900 rpm hot idle? I had it set to idle around 900 cold, which came out to about 1300-1400 hot.

[badvlvo]

It's alive!

[300+_T5R_855]

Congrats on getting everything in and running.

Dropping the engine in from the top is a bitch with a chain, but a cable sling works daddy-o.

http://primets.hs.llnwd.net/image.php/TILT01.jpg?legacy=1&image=/products/TILT01/images/TILT01.large.jpg

I am wondering why you went with VEMS system if your goals are only 320hp? The Turbo-Tuner would have been a much easier solution and would easily support your hp goals. Was the VEMS that much cheaper including harness and extra time involved.

FWIW, that's a bad place to mount your Aquamist pump.

I am sure you already know this, but Volvo 850 stick cars WILL start in gear. For a company so proud of it's safety record I find this hard to believe. Evens my wifes Honda won't start in gear, and it's the poverty model.

[blkaplan]

I am sure you already know this, but Volvo 850 stick cars WILL start in gear. For a company so proud of it's safety record I find this hard to believe. Evens my wifes Honda won't start in gear, and it's the poverty model.

I would rather have the option to do that. Works in a jiffy if you have a dead battery and some incline or a group of friends.

[EricF]

Congrats on getting everything in and running.

Dropping the engine in from the top is a bitch with a chain, but a cable sling works daddy-o.

http://primets.hs.llnwd.net/image.php/TILT01.jpg?legacy=1&image=/products/TILT01/images/TILT01.large.jpg

I am wondering why you went with VEMS system if your goals are only 320hp? The Turbo-Tuner would have been a much easier solution and would easily support your hp goals. Was the VEMS that much cheaper including harness and extra time involved.

FWIW, that's a bad place to mount your Aquamist pump.

I am sure you already know this, but Volvo 850 stick cars WILL start in gear. For a company so proud of it's safety record I find this hard to believe. Evens my wifes Honda won't start in gear, and it's the poverty model.

Hi CJ,

The VEMS is a fully standalone high resolution high capability engine management system... The turbo-tuner is nice for its integrability into the stock EMS-- it is basically the stock EMS. But there are a number of reasons I went with VEMS. Price was one ($700 with a fully terminated harness that utilized the stock sensors, and base map, can't beat that). This is also just a stepping stone engine. I want to see what one can do with a Volvo clutch, stock transmission, completely stock longblock, stock many things, just with good tuning and a decent turbo. I will also be building a longblock at some point, which will certainly utilize the full power of a very nicely featured fairly high resolution standalone. Consider my stated goals more or less temporary :)

The turbo-tuner is a nice system, but it is really apples to oranges.

As for starting in gear... Funny story time!

Had the car in second inside the shop, hadn't had the starter working for some reason (auto wiring), turned the key to start briefly and put the engine hoist arm into some drywall (buckets pushed into engine hoist which pushed into the wall).


Ben, the not-starting-in-gear is really only for whether the starter will engage. It has nothing to do with the car actually starting in gear (in any car with any kind of starter gear lockout, you can still start in gear by a push start).


-----

Update on the car, seems I'm to a one step forward two steps backwards kind of situation.

The power window circuit is fully connected and none of it works. I have the console out now troubleshooting that... With momentary monsoons pretty much throughout the day, that is one primary factor as to why I'm not driving the car right now.

Additionally, the said shifter bushing has tabs cracked off of it and hence does not stay in place. I also pulled it off the shifter ball and currently defies my replacement of it. I am going to figure out a way to bolt it down to the housing once I get it back in place to overcome the broken off tabs. Until I find a way to secure it, first and second gear are not really useable. I'm surprised I don't see more of this issue in the manual swap threads...

Karl, I had the idle hot around 900. I'll turn it up or tune it out...

:cheers:

[EricF]

Bracketed the shift ball bushing down earlier and buttoned up the interior (a little bit... not really). Now first and second work.

Low down and dirty:
http://www.pbase.com/image/116475796/original.jpg

Leaves, unloomed wires, uncleaned surfaces, water in the coolant expansion tank... What is this turbobricks?
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475798/original.jpg

PCV improvisation. Yes, the ziptie has quite a tail. Actually a number of them in the bay currently do.. Once everything works I'm going to trim the tails and loom all the wiring.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475799/original.jpg

Super blubbery welds, planed ATP wastegate housing, ground down Ford actuator fitting to allow the clip to fit over it and to move freely. No leaks!
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475800/original.jpg

Artfully confusing termination of the ignition wiring..
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475801/original.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475802/original.jpg

Heh.
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475803/original.jpg

:)
http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475804/original.jpg

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/shOfRodB6tw&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/shOfRodB6tw&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

I almost stalled it by trying to turn the throttle wheel the wrong way. Have only adjusted throttle cable so far, once I get the idle point right I'll set the stop on the throttle itself. Revs nice and cleanly though youtube doesn't really convey much of the experience.

Still at a loss over the power windows:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/122090-850-power-windows-circuit-diagram/

[narancs]

coming together nicely :spin:


http://www.pbase.com/thatcantbeavolvo/image/116475798/original.jpg


but this picture is reallllly frightening :wtf:

[linuxman51]

meh, you just haven't seen too many of eric's cars.

[Steve-O740]

meh, you just haven't seen too many of eric's cars.

he took lessons from Isaac:rofl:

Eric its looking good man. Can't wait to see it at the next meet.

[olov]

nah, at least he uses new-ish wire and tries to tie stuff off