Boost control completed, getting reset

[Roger-Dee]

I installed the valve tonight (found on a cadillac) and it's working good 'till about 15psi.
MS1 v3.0 with the daughter board. I put the diode between the two leg, didn't cure anything. It seems to happen whenever I go over 50% DC on the boost control DC gauge, I got it loged 2-3 times.

On my way home it would reset once while waiting at a stoplight. I disconected the valve and no problem...

Can my valve be the wrong resistance even if it seems to work? I would like to know where to start my search, damn reset they are killing me....

[Roger-Dee]

Found a topic on the msextra forum that suggested to add a 10uf caps at the valve. I only have a 470uf so I put it in for tonight. I'll test it tomorrow morning to see if it reset and I'll go grab the right capacitor. Did too high of a capacitor can mess with the valve?

If you have any other idea please throw them here.

[Roger-Dee]

Well, still reset.

I might try to mock up the circuit myself today and see if it would still reset, maybe it's the daughter board... ??

[JohnMc]

Dunno, are you sure the diode is installed correctly (and it's a good diode)?

I noticed some nasty spikes coming off my Syclone boost valve when it was working. Enough to give you a shock if you touched the wires, and MS wasn't appreciating that at all.

[Roger-Dee]

I bought a new one yesterday, used a 1n4004 instead of 1n4002. I put it as per john's instruction, cathode bar on the positive lead.

Last time I was getting nasty reset was with my tach output. I had to take my +12v outside of the ms to have the circuit working and not resetting the ms.

The odd thing is it will reset at idle, when the valve is not powered at all.

[crazy0000]

something strange is going on here, recheck all your connections. Though I'm sure youre not stupid like me (I hooked my boost control to the wrong pin on MS, took a week to realize, ms wasn't happy)

[Roger-Dee]

My problem wasn't boost control related, at least it doesn't look like it. With everything disconnected and the output turned off, it still reset. My Ms was working flawlessly for over a year and it started to reset on heavy load since last week. To get rid of the problem I opened the case and turned the two pot's on the board. I also put my dwell setting to 3.0ms instead of 4.0, seem to have helped too. From there I start to believe it is voltage related.

My problem looks a lot like the one Poik had a week or two ago. No dead ms, but reset coming out of nowhere. I think I must have discovered/created the problem when I tried the boost solenoid without a diode.

I've read about the U4 modification but I need clear instruction for these kind of thing. I'd like to do the few modification to have a more stable board.


On another note, I've read somewhere that the caps for the coil pack shouldn't be those electrolitic one, but back when I installed mine I didn't knew about it. My boost control solenoid was taking it's +12v from the same wire that power up my coils. I'm trowing it out here in case it can have an effect, could I have killed the caps when the valve was closing without the diode installed?

Sorry I hope my post make some sense... :roll:

[Roger-Dee]

Gonna try to replace the caps with new one tonight.

Can someone tell me how to test the caps and/or if they are tolerent to over-voltage?

[Roger-Dee]

Here is a log of a reset. See something wrong here?

http://i667.photobucket.com/albums/vv37/Wecklt/graph.png

So far;
Replaced the caps on my coil positive and negative wire
Added a 10uf mylar caps to pin6 of U1
Disabled all boost control setting
Put the dwell to 3.0ms running

Still reset. I will change the plug tomorrow along with a smaller gap.

[Roger-Dee]

Tonight I cleaned all my ground even if they were all looking healthy. However the positive battery pole was oxyded a lot so I decided to clean it. Guess what? Car now haul ass and I was even able to put the dwell back to 4.0ms.

I feel so stupid... :doh: