Tuning warm start on B234F+t

[Cornercase]

Hi guys. I'm working on my B234f+t here and I have the car idling nicely. The cold start isn't perfect (it stumbles a little on start), but warm start isn't working out for me. I'm talking about when the car is at ~140 degrees. I've been messing around with the warm up wizard, cold start enrichment, and other things, but haven't had much luck. So, if people could help me out with how I would go about determining what needs to be changed, that would be awesome.

FYI I'm running 029t MSnS-E with a stock distributor setup, stock 29 lb/hr injectors, stock 16v cams and gears, and an Innovate LC-1.

Thanks
Eamon

[Captain Bondo]

The board is running low on members with ESP/Telepathy/Psychic powers these days. Post your settings, or better yet your whole msq. :)

[740ATL]

Do you have an idle valve installed? They really help starts of any kind. Your idle air demands change drastically from cold start to warm start. The idle valve helps even it out.

I always tune the enrichments this way, but only after I have the basic VE table down... So assuming your VE table is ok...

1. starts and dies immediately, increase cranking (at whatever temp, but only a little bit... a little means 0.1ms increments) If you go too far here, you'll flood it... slow and steady wins the race.
2. starts, runs, then dies after 3-5 seconds, increase afterstart enrichments
3. starts, runs, but is really rich, decrease warmup enrichment. Vice versa if you're lean. I like 13:1 to 13:5 to 1 warmups, but ramping to 14.7:1 idles.

... Never do everything all at once.

Make sure you enrichments look smooth... try to imagine a curve fitting them all... is it up and down or smooth... make it smooth.

[Cornercase]

MSQ Here (http://www.cornercase.net/rand/megasquirt200909222049.msq)

Thanks
Eamon

[Cornercase]

I don't have an idle control valve yet. I plan to eventually. The VE table is not perfect, but the car can at least idle and rev through the no-load range (with some stumbling)

Also, I do have starting and dying on cold starts but on warm starts, I get nothing. It just cranks.

Eamon

[Captain Bondo]

I'm talking about when the car is at ~140 degrees.

Warm up wizard shows no enrichment when hotter than 120 degrees....

It drops from 140% @ 100 degree to 100% at 130....

I would try some more enrichment from 100-140. Like 105-110% at 140, 115-120 ish at 120

[Cornercase]

That's an artifact from things I was trying. I had it at 130% originally, then tried 115, 120, 125.

Eamon

[Cornercase]

I toyed with it some more and discovered that my cranking pulsewidths were WAAAAAY too low. I was at 1 ms. Changed everything above 100 degrees CLT to 3-4 ms and now the car starts at all temperatures (well, between 65 and 160 degrees F). It still takes a few cranks, so I'll be fine-tuning it, but it starts. Now it's time to tune the hunting idle.

Eamon

[WolfDK]

I don't have an idle control valve yet. I plan to eventually. The VE table is not perfect, but the car can at least idle and rev through the no-load range (with some stumbling)

Also, I do have starting and dying on cold starts but on warm starts, I get nothing. It just cranks.

Eamon

Use stock Volvo IAC system, the one with the black box (have two 6 pin connectors), and the stepper type IAC valve. You only need to ground the wire that originally goes to the TPS ,switch to activate the IAC system. Use a MS output for this, and program that OP to become active when "Throttle Position < 1". Remember to connect a RPM signal to the IAC computer box, or it will act very strange :p

The mentioned setup works perfect on my car.