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rallyvovo
10-21-2009, 01:13 AM
Think I installed the flywheel on the crank incorrectly, as in the missing teeth arent in the correct orientation with respect to TDC of #1.

This matters with LH2.4 and Im using the same trigger system with MS and im wondering if itll still screw things up. I havent been into my config settings for megatune in months, but is there a way to adjust for this sort of thing? Im not using wasted spark, but am using DSM dual coils driven by the DSM ignition module.

Its not a huge deal to yank it back out and spin the flywheel around some, but obviously itd be pain in the ass

Thanks

wennstroma
10-21-2009, 01:20 AM
I would just put the flywheel in the right place. You could maybe fudge the settings, but you would have to know the position of the missing teeth and it might not work anyways.

If you didn't know, the easiest way to line it up correctly is to set the #1 cylinder to tdc and put the missing teeth pointing to the starter bulge.

rallyvovo
10-21-2009, 01:23 AM
ya thats what i read after the fact...tried to decifer what the green book said, but my flywheel didnt really make sense compared to their write up. ****. Ill make sure im wrong, but oh well. couple hours wasted

740ATL
10-21-2009, 05:10 AM
I think it's tooth 15 is under the sensor when #1 is at TDC. If you know what tooth is under it, you should be able to recount the trigger pattern and run it as is. No?

dbh86
10-21-2009, 08:14 AM
I think it's tooth 15 is under the sensor when #1 is at TDC. If you know what tooth is under it, you should be able to recount the trigger pattern and run it as is. No?

Ya, if you can figure out what tooth is under the sensor at TDC you should be able to get MS to run without changing the wheel.

JohnMc
10-21-2009, 10:14 AM
Yeah, I'd spend some time farking around with the toothed wheel decoder settings at this point, rather than pulling the trans and reclocking the damn flywheel.

Actually, depending on how the flywheel is mounted, you might be able to do as little as swapping the plug wires around (assuming you are using the 2.4 dist still?). There are only 8 discrete ways to mount the flywheel, and I think half of them would work with the plug wires moved around. The other half, however, would require some tinkering with the trigger angle setting (+45 degrees?)

Matt Cramer
10-21-2009, 10:18 AM
With MS, you can compensate for different wheel alignments with the trigger wheel settings. Which MS version do you have?

rallyvovo
10-21-2009, 12:27 PM
Still running the MS1 chip as i couldnt get MS2 to do the dual coils successfully back when i was setting everything up (over a year ago).

I think you guys are right, i just havent peeped at the megatune settings for the trigger wheel in a while so i couldnt remember what flexability i had to mess with. But what i can do is find a blank in the bell housing opening for the sensor and count the holes off form TDC. Should i be counting counter clockwise (ie towards the starter opening?)?

JohnMc
10-21-2009, 01:04 PM
Taking the starter out would probably be the nest pt. Nice view of the sensor holes. In normal running, the flywheel is moving down in that hole.

Oh, and forget what I said earlier about it working fine on half the mounting options, I think it's only 1/4 of them. I.e. correct and 180 degrees off, assuming sotck LH2.4 and an appropriately clocked distributor. But still, if you are way off, just move the wires around and use a closer trigger angle setting, i.e. not more than 180 degeres.

rallyvovo
10-21-2009, 01:33 PM
Thanks man. Im not using the volvo distributor (or coil). Im sneaking a pic in this thread, but its on the hush hush:)

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/5323/p1010061a.jpg (http://img136.imageshack.us/i/p1010061a.jpg/)

JohnMc
10-21-2009, 02:09 PM
Gigitty.

I've got a 16VT in my 245. Fun stuff.

I need to do something different with ignition at some point. I'm thinkng wasted spark COP. It's still using a block mounted distributor now.

dbh86
10-22-2009, 09:29 AM
You should be able to do everything from the wheel decoder page in megatune.

Also, what cam gears are those?

Cameron
10-22-2009, 12:32 PM
Also, what cam gears are those?

Look like SPM to me.

rallyvovo
10-22-2009, 12:34 PM
You should be able to do everything from the wheel decoder page in megatune.

Also, what cam gears are those?

Thanks guys, i was really startin to kick myself for about 10hrs until i thought about it rationally. Ill just count teeth and each tooth is 6*, so if Im off 10 teeth past where OE placement is, ill just add that to the setting number i had in MS already that ran it. Think its 84* i read.

Cam gears are SPM (Sten Parner Motor) in Sweden. Its a whole set of wide gears (crank and 3 adj. gears (ya, my oil pump drive is adjustable, suck it!). They are great, but no easy way to do accurate timing changes beyond 'feel'. THere are no tick marks. Also it was a but of a headache fitting the wider set in. Had to lathe the harmonic balancer down to align the pulley belts and the woodruff key had to be edited minorly. Seems to rock hard now though. And they were cheap comparatively.

rallyvovo
10-22-2009, 12:35 PM
Look like SPM to me.

beat me to it, good eyes:)

Cameron
10-22-2009, 12:41 PM
Had to lathe the harmonic balancer down to align the pulley belts and the woodruff key had to be edited minorly.

Why not just shim the other pulleys out to align w/ the harmonic balancer? How thick is the crank gear from SPM? Thicker than a stock B234 gear? I suppose shimming depends on that and also depends on your accessory set up. Water pump pulley is easy to shim out, alternator pulley should be easy to shim out a little. I guess power steering pump pulley is tough if you aren't using one with a removable pulley.

I mainly bring this up because I just went through the same thing on my motor. I am using the B234 crank gear and I just got some longer bolts and shimmed out the accessory pulleys to realign them w/ the crank pulley grooves. Although I'm using an early power steering pump w/ a removable pulley.

/thread derail :-P

rallyvovo
10-22-2009, 01:03 PM
No worries.

Ya it was a pain sorta, but i had access to a full machine shop and it was free apart from some time. I didnt really think of shimming the accessories out but it might have been a little harder in a sense seeing as there are 3 of them. It did, however, bring the harmonic ballancer pretty close to my aux shaft pulley, but nothing scary. I think the gears are 35mm? Its a 25mm belt and there is about a 1/4" on each side i think. But ya man, as long as you got stuff lined up and its sturdy, you are ready to rock im sure. Im also using a B234 balancer.

Cameron
10-22-2009, 01:19 PM
I think the gears are 35mm? Its a 25mm belt and there is about a 1/4" on each side i think. But ya man, as long as you got stuff lined up and its sturdy, you are ready to rock im sure. Im also using a B234 balancer.

35mm, that's pretty big! The cam gears and aux gear I'm using on mine are about that (see pic) size, but the crank gear I'm using is a stock B234 which is nowhere near that large. Sounds like milling yours (especially w/ a full machine shop at your disposal!) was a great way to do it to make up for the larger distance. I'm only going a few mms out on the pulleys so it was pretty straight forward. If I had to pull them out a lot more I might rethink that approach.


https://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/images_teammembers/454.jpg

rallyvovo
11-04-2009, 04:23 PM
OK. My missing holes start 45 teeth away from TDC (opposed to the stock 15 holes away). That equates to 264 degrees past TDC referencing this http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=183560&highlight=trigger+wheel.

MS can deal with that, yes?

linuxman51
11-04-2009, 04:30 PM
you should be able to set it up however you want to, so no, it should not matter. (but I haven't tried, so I cannot say with 100% certainty)

rallyvovo
11-04-2009, 04:55 PM
close enough for government work.:)

linuxman51
11-04-2009, 04:58 PM
what I do every day.

JohnMc
11-04-2009, 05:50 PM
Might need to reclock the wires and do the 'b' trigger first. If that makes sense. If you try to do the #1/4 trigger first and then the #2/3 trigger you might end up going over 365 degrees, and MS probably won't like that.

Reclocking the wires vs. just rotating the int shaft around is probably best because you can keep the stock timing mark alignment.

EDIT: I have a hard time making sense of what I just said. Hopefully it makes some sense, it's something that's easier to visualize than verbalize.

wennstroma
11-04-2009, 11:58 PM
I sometimes forget that not everyone has easy access to a lift. Thats why I suggested just yanking the trans back out.;-)