Lets get my car running tonight

[VolvoPunch]

I have a few more questions to be answered. I have wired up the EDIS system and I am getting a spark, the fuel pump is turning on as it should but I still have to wire up the injectors.

I have a green and silver cables coming off of the original Volvo injector connectors. Which cable color is for power green or silver.

Also Cylinder one is the piston in the front or rear of the engine?

The green MS injector wire (pin 35 and 34) should be connected to injectors 1 & 2? and the blue injector cable (pin 33 32) should be connector to injector 3 & 4.

Thanks in advance, I cannot wait to start driving this car again. It's been almost two years in the making and I am finally approaching the finish line. :-P

[B-lennium]

The cilinder in the front (at the nose of the car) is cilinder 1
A injector is just a coil, so it don't matter witch cable you connect to your MS.

connect 1 wire of both injectors (1+2) for example green to the blue MS wire
Connect the other wire to your 12v (mainrelay) use a 5A fuse

connect 1 wire of both injectors (3+4) for example green to the green MS wire
Connect the other wire to your 12v (mainrelay) use a 5A fuse

You can use this diagram

http://www.finkbuilt.com/static/images/articles/megaWiring.gif

[VolvoPunch]

MS2 EDIS Strong spark, Smelling fuel, no start :-(

These have all been set
Settings/MegaTune

In MegaTune, set:

* Trigger offset = 0° (this will vary slightly, depending on the wheel/pickup configuration),
* Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge', ('Falling Edge' for MicroSquirt® only if using the VR input circuit - not recommended),
* Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated',
* Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS',
* Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)', ('Going High (Inverted)' for MicroSquirt).
* Trigger Wheel Teeth to '0' (zero)

Sitting in the car with oil on my hands typing on the lappy.

[Bob]

Did you reverse the 1/4 and 2/3 plug wires? You want to go by colors, the diagrams I see the most often reverse pins 10 and 12.

[domox]

Are you sure you have the trigger sensor lined up right? I had mine off a little when I first set mine up and it caused me fits. Set your engine to TDC and make sure the tooth count is right.

[VolvoPunch]

Did you reverse the 1/4 and 2/3 plug wires? You want to go by colors, the diagrams I see the most often reverse pins 10 and 12.

My coil pack is numbered so I connect coil one on the pack to cylinder one at the front of the engine etc.

Someone informed me in another thread that the MS diagram was incorrect I had to rewire the ignition module correctly.

Are you sure you have the trigger sensor lined up right? I had mine off a little when I first set mine up and it caused me fits. Set your engine to TDC and make sure the tooth count is right.

This has been checked.

The car turns over with spark and fuel but it will not even putter or backfire nothing. It just turns over and over.

[linuxman51]

ether in the intake and see if it runs.

[VolvoPunch]

ether in the intake and see if it runs.

Do what to the intake?

[kyle242gt]

Starting fluid.

Make sure your battery is fully charged, and that you have 12V to the injectors in CRANK and ON position. Verify if you need resistor packs or not. Be sure the RPM signal shows up in Megatune.

Remove all the plugs, get #1 close to ground (so it'll arc) and hook your timing light up. Have someone crank it over (with no plugs in, it should go good n fast) and see what your actual timing is.

Getting the trigger angle and so forth set can be exceptionally trying. BTDT.

If you can (easily) put the OEM distributor back in service, try that. Often easier to deal with fuel first, spark second.

You may very well have flooded it as well with all the cranking attempts, so removing the plugs and drying them out would be a good call anyway.

If that all checks out, remove the fuel rail and/or injectors, see if you're getting a priming pulse and pulses while cranking. Verify what your ReqFuel is (or whatever the term has become over the last three years) about right for your injector size.

Good luck, you'll get it.

[VolvoPunch]

Make sure your battery is fully charged, and that you have 12V to the injectors in CRANK and ON position. Verify if you need resistor packs or not. Be sure the RPM signal shows up in Megatune.


The battery is brand new and charged. I am using a resistor pack. I don't see any RPM activity in TunerStudio when cranking.


Remove all the plugs, get #1 close to ground (so it'll arc) and hook your timing light up. Have someone crank it over (with no plugs in, it should go good n fast) and see what your actual timing is.

I have not used a timing light yet, but I sent the engine to TDC and double checked the EDIS gear alignment.



If you can (easily) put the OEM distributor back in service, try that. Often easier to deal with fuel first, spark second.

Putting the old distributor back on is not an option.



You may very well have flooded it as well with all the cranking attempts, so removing the plugs and drying them out would be a good call anyway.

Trying this now


If that all checks out, remove the fuel rail and/or injectors, see if you're getting a priming pulse and pulses while cranking. Verify what your ReqFuel is (or whatever the term has become over the last three years) about right for your injector size.

I am using green tops that were rebuilt and flow tested a few years ago. I can also hear the fuel pump and injectors prime when power is given.

[VolvoPunch]

New development, I no longer have spark now :grrr: I checked the fuses and everything is good. Do I push the car down the hill now and catch it on fire or later?

[VolvoPunch]

The ignition model was not fully plugged in :oops:. I now have a strong spark again but still not running engine.

[linuxman51]

Do what to the intake?

Get a can of starting fluid (Ether), spray some in the intake, and see if the car runs. if it does, you've got a fuel problem of some sort. if it does not, you have an ignition issue. Spark power means nothing if it's not occuring at the right time.

[500dollar744ti]

yeah, if it runs on starting fluid, move on to fuel, have you got an RPM signal showing on the laptop? it ain't gonna start without one, provided MS is properly connected to the laptop and you're getting a readout on the other parameters.

is your trigger angle set correctly for your ignition?

[VolvoPunch]

yeah, if it runs on starting fluid, move on to fuel, have you got an RPM signal showing on the laptop? it ain't gonna start without one, provided MS is properly connected to the laptop and you're getting a readout on the other parameters.

is your trigger angle set correctly for your ignition?

No RPM signal is showing. MS gets the RPM signal from the VR sensor correct?

[linuxman51]

if you're using EDIS, no. you get the rpm signal (pip) from the ignition module. the spark output (saw) is what determines the advance.

[VolvoPunch]

if you're using EDIS, no. you get the rpm signal (pip) from the ignition module. the spark output (saw) is what determines the advance.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/4599/edis4ewm.gif

Um I will look over those connections again tomorrow in the light but I am pretty sure I did a nice job soldiering them. I also made sure to twist all of the wires along with pin number 7 (shield) and ran that the whole way back to the MS box.

What kind of RPM numbers should I see when turning the engine over?

[Obeharskad122s]

What kind of RPM numbers should I see when turning the engine over?

250-400 ish, depending on starter/battery charge.
It should update rapidly, but not fluctuate wildly.

[VolvoPunch]

When I did the shielding I ran a cable from the EDIS pin 7 and wrapped it around pins rpm signal (pip) 24 spark output (saw) 36 back to my MS box. I wrapped the cable the whole way then clipped it at the very at near the MS box and soldier the other end on my EDIS module. Was I suppose to bring the cable back up to the ignition module again. Did I explain that clearly enough? Do you understand what I am trying to say? Could that shielding be causing a problem?

[linuxman51]

the shield is only connected on one end, correct? or is it not connected at all? You did tell it you're running EDIS, correct? you don't set up wheel decoder stuff for edis, you just tell it it's running edis and move on.

[VolvoPunch]

the shield is only connected on one end, correct? or is it not connected at all? You did tell it you're running EDIS, correct? you don't set up wheel decoder stuff for edis, you just tell it it's running edis and move on.

Correct the shielding cable that I wrapped around pins 24 and 36 ends at the MS box and is soldier to pin 7 on my EDIS module. I am also using a nice wiring harness. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirt-wiring-harness-ready-p-43.html

Correct I just setup the ignition to edis like it says here.
Settings/MegaTune

In MegaTune, set:

* Trigger offset = 0° (this will vary slightly, depending on the wheel/pickup configuration),
* Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge', ('Falling Edge' for MicroSquirt® only if using the VR input circuit - not recommended),
* Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated',
* Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS',
* Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)', ('Going High (Inverted)' for MicroSquirt).
* Trigger Wheel Teeth to '0' (zero)

Set the predictor algorithm option to 'last interval'.

DO NOT set the missing tooth settings to 36-1 - set the Trigger Wheel Teeth to zero - the EDIS module takes care of the 36-1 wheel - MegaSquirt-II sees it as a regular distributor.
http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

[linuxman51]

v2.2 or v3? if its a v3 did you set the correct jumpers on the board?

[VolvoPunch]

v2.2 or v3? if its a v3 did you set the correct jumpers on the board?

I did not know I needed to do that. Let me go and check.

BTW I am running MegaSquirt-II EMS System - SMD PCB3.57
http://www.diyautotune.com/images/products/ms2357-c/ms2357-c_open.jpg

[linuxman51]

then get on the horn with DIY, that's their baby.

[500dollar744ti]

even with the newest board there and MSII aren't you still required to reconfigure the board for EDIS?

[500dollar744ti]

and how about simple clearance for the VR sensor and the tone ring? what are you using to mount the VR... could you possibly have the clearance off?

closer doesn't always mean better.

[VolvoPunch]

even with the newest board there and MSII aren't you still required to reconfigure the board for EDIS?

DIY Said
There are jumpers into and out of the two different tach signal conditioning circuits. There is a VR for a round wave input and there is a hall / optical for a square wave input. For EDIS you will want Hall / Optical. On yours, with the top cover off and the heatsink facing up, at the bottom right (JP1) you will want pins 2&3 jumpered together, and right in the middle of the board (J1) you will want pins 1&2 jumpered together. This will send the PIP signal from EDIS into and out of the proper conditioning circuit.

I checked my jumpers and they were setup correcting from the beginning.

[linuxman51]

ok. so you're saying that while cranking-
the ms has power
you have spark
there is no rpm reading on the ms

and

you have it wired correctly.

[VolvoPunch]

ok. so you're saying that while cranking-
the ms has power
you have spark
there is no rpm reading on the ms

and

you have it wired correctly.

Yes that's correct.

[domox]

IF the EDIS is correctly configured (wiring/VR pickup clearance/tooth alignment) but not receiving a SAW signal, it will still fire in limp home mode. What this means to you: with clean, dry plugs have someone spray a little starter fluid into the throttle body while you crank it. If it's set up correctly the engine will fire (at 10 deg BTDC IIRC) without the MS doing a thing, provided your EDIS is sparking.

[VolvoPunch]

even with the newest board there and MSII aren't you still required to reconfigure the board for EDIS?

I contacted DIY auto and verified that the jumper order was setup correctly. I also just pulled off my edis module connector and tested the connective between that and my VR sensor and pin 24 and 36 that runs to my MS box. All 4 of the cables are reporting a strong currency so the connectivity is good. Even with the cables being connected properly and showing a strong continuity I am not still getting any RPM actively on MS when I turn the car over. Yes I still have spark and fuel. This is frustrating :grrr:.

[domox]

...All 4 of the cables are reporting a strong currency so the connectivity is good. Even with the cables being connected properly and showing a strong currency I am not still getting any RPM actively on MS when I turn the car over...

So, your lines are showing strong money? :lol: Or do you mean 'good continuity'?

Since at this point you're not getting a PIP signal to the MS I'm betting you probably don't have a SAW signal getting to the EDIS module. I think that for ****s and giggles you ought to run two new lines to make sure. I've seen lines showing continuity that don't carry a signal for some reason or other. At this point you have nothing to lose, it's just wire.

[VolvoPunch]

Since at this point you're not getting a PIP signal to the MS I'm betting you probably don't have a SAW signal getting to the EDIS module. I think that for ****s and giggles you ought to run two new lines to make sure. I've seen lines showing continuity that don't carry a signal for some reason or other. At this point you have nothing to lose, it's just wire.

I have already tested the connection from the DP37 connector to the EDIS module connector for both pins 24 and 36. It's a good cable/connection. That's why I am still struggling to figure out what's going on. My cabling is brand new high quality. My connections have been soldered well then heat shrink wrapped. I am going to poke around bit more and see what I can find out.

[domox]

Do you have a MS stimulator? You need to verify that the ignition input circuit is receiving a signal. If you're not getting a tach signal in to your MS you may have a bad opto-isolator (U3/4N25).

[Stamperman]

Do you have a MS stimulator? You need to verify that the ignition input circuit is receiving a signal. If you're not getting a tach signal in to your MS you may have a bad opto-isolator (U3/4N25).

Have you checked the ignition settings to makes sure that they are set up correctly for the EDIS?

It's a basic question, but sometimes......

Alan

[The Aspirator]

IF the EDIS is correctly configured (wiring/VR pickup clearance/tooth alignment) but not receiving a SAW signal, it will still fire in limp home mode. What this means to you: with clean, dry plugs have someone spray a little starter fluid into the throttle body while you crank it. If it's set up correctly the engine will fire (at 10 deg BTDC IIRC) without the MS doing a thing, provided your EDIS is sparking.This is a really good point, do this and report back. It'll tell you if the problem is before or including the edis module (VR, edis module itself) or if it's wiring past the edis module or MS board related. The fact that you're not getting a tach signal means that the problem lies somewhere between the MS optoisolator and the VR sensor, and it's most likely something simple. I don't know if tunerstudio has a toothlogger program, but megatunix does, so that will tell you if MS is reading teeth AT ALL, which is pretty sweet. Then again, if it's reading teeth but they're all wrong, the engine should still fart and fire.

Wait, so you have fuel (well, smell fuel), have spark, but no RPM. So the EDIS module must be working in limp home mode, key word being workin. But without a tach signal MS won't fire fuel. Maybe a priming pulse, but that's it. If this is all the case, starting fluid should make it run with MS off, and your problem is between the EDIS output and the MS input.

Best of luck.

[500dollar744ti]

this is true, MS will only control the timing, if everything is setup properly it should still run at base timing, which is 10* iirc like someone else said.

you should be able to start the car with MS ignition control wires completely disconnected if it is setup right.

[linuxman51]

Get a can of starting fluid (Ether), spray some in the intake, and see if the car runs. if it does, you've got a fuel problem of some sort. if it does not, you have an ignition issue. Spark power means nothing if it's not occuring at the right time.

IF the EDIS is correctly configured (wiring/VR pickup clearance/tooth alignment) but not receiving a SAW signal, it will still fire in limp home mode. What this means to you: with clean, dry plugs have someone spray a little starter fluid into the throttle body while you crank it. If it's set up correctly the engine will fire (at 10 deg BTDC IIRC) without the MS doing a thing, provided your EDIS is sparking.

I'm not sayin', I'm just sayin'.

[VolvoPunch]

I am about two days off for poring gasoline all over this POS and setting it ablaze! I am suck ****ing sick and tired of working in the cold, always being dirty and still not being able to show anything for all of my time spent in this stupid pos car. ****! I have put thousands of dollars and many miles of driving time into this car and still it does not run or move! Its no longer is sparking, I checked all of the fuses they are good, I swapped out the ford coil it is also good. I checked the MS pin 24 and 36 both are good on the voltmeter, I checked the VR sensor cabling both are good on the voltmeter. It's still not reporting any RPM actively on the MS box. asdfhio;hipyu8902y80awetlasf nkl http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y120/Fatalis_Prime/Rage.gif If this car is not running within a week I am soo sooooo close to killing it and blowing it all the fock away.

[domox]

Do you have a MS stimulator? You need to verify that the ignition input circuit is receiving a signal. If you're not getting a tach signal in to your MS you may have a bad opto-isolator (U3/4N25). (or whatever the equivalent is on the 3.57 board.)

Also, are you sure your EDIS module is still functional?

[500dollar744ti]

even with MS disconnected, can you get a timing light to read base timing with the engine cranking? step back, look at your EDIS hardware, get a spark for base timing and then worry about the MS controlling spark.

the EDIS pins can back out of the connectors, check all pins and make sure they are still in place, all of your connecting and disconnecting may have dislodged one of the pins. then try another EDIS controller, get a couple to try, if you somehow shorted it trying to make it run you will be wasting your time here.

with MS ignition pins disconnected you should be able to get it to start on starting fluid if the EDIS is functioning, start there and work forward.

don't overstress yourself and let the actual problem slip past your sight. i only say this because i have been there, done that, you have the capacity to make it work, and you can do it.

[linuxman51]

tow it down here noob. it can't be that bad.

[domox]

Well? Anything?

[VolvoPunch]

Tested out the coil pack on my escort, it seems fine. Replaced the EDIS module with another unit I pulled from the junkyard today. I even took my harness over to DIY Auto Tuners and Russ checked out my harness said it was fine and my MS box was working. I cut and resoldered my shielded RPM signal gauge wire. I double checked my engine timing by setting everything to TDC it seemed to be a bit off before. Now it's alignment is correct. It's been about a week since I had spark and I am still not getting any RPM information back to the MS box. My fingers are freezing and my MS temp sensor says it's 60f degress in the intake manifold atm. I focking hate life right now.

[domox]

OK. I'm going to say it again: Have someone crank it over while you spray starting fluid in the throttle body. If it runs, your EDIS is properly set up and you can look elsewhere. Start with the basics.

[VolvoPunch]

OK. I'm going to say it again: Have someone crank it over while you spray starting fluid in the throttle body. If it runs, your EDIS is properly set up and you can look elsewhere. Start with the basics.

Yes used a lot of starting fluid, I got a bang last week but it came out of the intake manifold and below off all of my houses. That was before I adjusted the timing on the engine. Today I get no bangs. I think tomorrow I am going to redo my edis wiring from scratch.

[linuxman51]

my offer still stands.

[domox]

Remember, you don't need alot of fluid, just a little spray. It takes surprising little fluid to run an engine at idle - I've run a Chevy 350 at idle with a squirt every couple of seconds.

Where are you setting the empty tooth on the trigger wheel? Are you setting the engine at TDC first, then aligning it? If you make sure the engine is at TDC then make sure that you count clockwise away from the sensor.

Good luck.

[VolvoPunch]

A friend of my and fellow turbobricker came over today to give me a hand and point me in the right direction. We ended up spending about 6 hours working on the car and we were still unable to get it to spark. We tested the resistant on the VR sensor, swapped out my EDIS module, swapped out my coil, cut and resoldered the VR wires to the EDIS module then tested the resistant at the edis module plugin. Unplugged MS and just worked solely with the EDIS system.... I will add more later. Anyways I think I am further from finishing now then I was a week ago. A week ago I had spark and fuel, now I know I don't have spark and I am not to sure about the fuel thing just yet.

my offer still stands.

Thanks for the offer but I will have to pass because of logistical and monetary restrains. If I had a truck, trailer and steady income I would be at your door step by tomorrow evening.

[dbh86]

My guess would be EDIS is reading the position of the engine wrong or not at all. I.E. toothed wheel is aligned wrong...

And yes, I know you said you checked it.

Also, can you post your msq?

[VolvoPunch]

My guess would be EDIS is reading the position of the engine wrong or not at all. I.E. toothed wheel is aligned wrong...

And yes, I know you said you checked it.

Also, can you post your msq?

There would be nothing to post since MS cannot tell the engine is turning over from what I can see because no RPM information is getting back to the MS unit.

Tomorrow I am going to pull another VR sensor from the junkyard along with an edis connector and resolder my edis wiring. Also does the coil pack need to be grounded? Because right now I have two screws that I drilled through my firewall holding it so I guess its semi grounded.

[domox]

I know you're frustrated. If you're going to start over then take the time to get it right.

1 - Find top dead center. Is your distributor still in there? I left mine in to get close on #1 cylinder. Then I pulled the plugs and with a soft wire (you can use anything that won't mark the piston) find TDC. Put a mark anywhere on the wire (tape works) and slowly rotate the engine back and forth to find where the piston stops moving at TDC. It won't be 'perfect' but it'll be pretty close.

2 - Unlock your trigger wheel and put the missing tooth 9 teeth away, clockwise. In other words, there will be one tooth under the VR sensor, nine teeth, then the missing tooth going with the engine rotation. This will put the sensor the required 90 degrees BTDC. Lock the trigger wheel down.

3 - Make sure the VR sensor harness to the EDIS module has the correct polarity, i.e., make sure the wire colors match on each end.

4 - Make sure that the harness to the coil pack is correct so you're firing the correct pair.

5 - Verify that the power to the module and coil pack switches on with the key the way it's supposed to. It is fused through a relay, right?

6 - Make sure the PIP and SAW are disconnected from the MS for now.

That's ALL you need. It should fire in limp home mode.

That's your baseline - make sure the ignition works.

[Nick]

Zach, why not post pics of everything, that way we can get a better idea of what you're working with... Maybe we can spot something obvious as the problem.

Like I told you on the phone, not getting RPM signal to MS pretty much has to be that the board isn't set up right, or you don't have connection to the module.

I don't think I'd go tearing it all out, just take pics, step back for a second and think logically.

[VolvoPunch]

I took a short break from working on the car because I was simply getting too frustrated with my lack of results. Anyways I went over the wiring harness again and everything seems ok. I also swapped the coil and VR sensor00 from my escort and installed it in the Volvo so I know for a fact that they work. Instead of fallowing the MS harness diagrams I just ran a 12v wire from the panel in my engine bay to the EDIS unit to simplify things until I EDIS is confirmed and working. I also removed all of my spark plugs to dry out the cylinders since there was quite a bit of gas in them and to help with the rpm turn over rate when I crank the car to test the ignition.

Remember I was getting spark with this setup in the beginning.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/479/picture012f.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/i/picture012f.jpg/)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/273/picture001nw.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/i/picture001nw.jpg/)
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5650/picture003r.th.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/i/picture003r.jpg/)
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/332/picture004vr.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/i/picture004vr.jpg/)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/8151/picture005jo.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/i/picture005jo.jpg/)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/6588/picture006tu.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/i/picture006tu.jpg/)
http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9596/picture007jr.th.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/picture007jr.jpg/)
http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2078/picture008xs.th.jpg (http://img338.imageshack.us/i/picture008xs.jpg/)
http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9287/picture009o.th.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/i/picture009o.jpg/)
http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3731/picture010uk.th.jpg (http://img69.imageshack.us/i/picture010uk.jpg/)
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/930/picture011b.th.jpg (http://img526.imageshack.us/i/picture011b.jpg/)

[B-lennium]

Hey! where did you get your spark wires from?

[domox]

Hey! where did you get your spark wires from?
They're standard Ford EDIS.

[domox]

Is it possible to get a picture of your crank pulley and sensor setup at 0-deg TDC?

[VolvoPunch]

Is it possible to get a picture of your crank pulley and sensor setup at 0-deg TDC?

I recheckrf the alignment recently. When I tried to start the car the first time the alignment was slightly off. That's why I think it would not start even though I had fuel and spark at the time. I will take pictures tomorrow but I don't think the alignment would prevent the EDIS form sparking.

[domox]

It won't stop EDIS from firing, true. But if it fires out of sequence, it won't run. I'll go back to my previous post, re: verifying that the EDIS is working by making it fire on a squirt or two of starter fluid. Only when you've verified that this one system works should you move on to the MS. Good luck.

[VolvoPunch]

It won't stop EDIS from firing, true. But if it fires out of sequence, it won't run. I'll go back to my previous post, re: verifying that the EDIS is working by making it fire on a squirt or two of starter fluid. Only when you've verified that this one system works should you move on to the MS. Good luck.

MS is disconnected, I am not even worried about the firing order right now because I am not getting any spark at all. I have swapped out the VR sensor, the EDIS module and the coil pack. I have pulled out all of the plugs and I hold one up to the strut mount studs and watch/listen for a spark.

How does my wiring look? Did I wiring up the interference/shielding cabling correctly?

[domox]

I think this is part of the problem. The VR sensor wiring is supposed to be shielded twin-axial cable (two wires inside a shield), not twisted wires. The shield is there because you're dealing with tiny voltages (relative to the noisy engine compartment) and you don't want the voltage swings compromised. If you look at my harness below, you can see that on my harness, one leg goes down to the sensor and the other main one to the coil pack and then on to the actual MS with the PIP/SAW lines, and they're also in a twin-ax cable (just to make sure). I used the original twin-ax that came with the VR sensor (I cut it out of the harness) and figured that with the length I had I could mount it in the same location as the original ignition box, so that's where it went. So, I would suggest starting with the VR sensor wiring. If the EDIS module can't tell the engine is turning - no sparkey.

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f386/domoxaz/Car%20Stuff/Volvo%20Stuff/MegaSquirt/DSC00002.jpg

[VolvoPunch]

:dance::spin::dance: Success! We have spark again, I believe it was the VR sensor wiring that was causing the problem. When I use starter fluid the car fires right up and spins over quickly for about 3 seconds then dies. :-( Fixed one problem now onto another. Also I am still not seeing any RPM signals getting back to the MS unit.

[domox]

YEAY!!!:dance::boink::spin:

Well, where there's smoke, there's fire. Time to check the wiring. Is the PIP from the EDIS connected to the MS Tach Input? Even if the PIP is the only thing working the EDIS should still fire in limp home mode for the MS. Congrats and keep going!

[VolvoPunch]

YEAY!!!:dance::boink::spin:

Well, where there's smoke, there's fire. Time to check the wiring. Is the PIP from the EDIS connected to the MS Tach Input? Even if the PIP is the only thing working the EDIS should still fire in limp home mode for the MS. Congrats and keep going!

Great I will look over that part of the wiring again.

Also right now I am powering the MS system by simply wrapping the two wires that are suppose to go to the ignition. This is how I'm turning on my relays and MS unit. I just taped the wires together and I connect and disconnect the power at the battery. Which cables from the 240 ignition can I use to connect my MS harness to? Can I connect my MS harness 12v power cable to one of the stock fuse panel connections below the drivers side steering wheel?

[domox]

What I normally do is run a line from the fuse panel, from one of the fuses that is hot while cranking and in run mode. I don't have my manuals in front of me so I don't remember which one. This line triggers a relay that provides power to the EDIS and the MS through a 10A fuse from the distribution box, this way they both get juice when you hit the key. I'll look it up later if you still need to know which fuse.

[VolvoPunch]

So I checked over the wiring again.

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/5325/picture028j.th.jpg (http://img260.imageshack.us/i/picture028j.jpg/)
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2695/picture030f.th.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/picture030f.jpg/)

I connected my multimeter to pin 1 on my edis connector
http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/5788/picture029o.th.jpg (http://img690.imageshack.us/i/picture029o.jpg/)
then went back to my MS harness and plug the positive end into pin 24 (PIP/IGN)
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/9688/picture032s.th.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/picture032s.jpg/)

I did this test for both the PIP (24 at DB37) and SAW (36 at DB37). So it appears that they have a solid connection. What else should I try? I'm still not seeing any RPM active in Tuner Studio.

[domox]

Does anyone near you have a stimulator? You need to rule out the MS, i.e., that the input on your MS is actually working. You can trace wires 'til you're blue in the face but that won't tell you if the MS is receiving. Oh, are you sure that your MS is set up properly for EDIS? (Probably asked/answered before.)

[VolvoPunch]

Does anyone near you have a stimulator? You need to rule out the MS, i.e., that the input on your MS is actually working. You can trace wires 'til you're blue in the face but that won't tell you if the MS is receiving. Oh, are you sure that your MS is set up properly for EDIS? (Probably asked/answered before.)

I recently took my MS unit over to DIY Auto Tuners the place were I purchased the unit. Russ put it on their simulator and said everything was working fine.

I also sent him an email asking about MS-ll jumper settings and this is what he had to say.
There are jumpers into and out of the two different tach signal conditioning circuits. There is a VR for a round wave input and there is a hall / optical for a square wave input. For EDIS you will want Hall / Optical. On yours, with the top cover off and the heatsink facing up, at the bottom right (JP1) you will want pins 2&3 jumpered together, and right in the middle of the board (J1) you will want pins 1&2 jumpered together. This will send the PIP signal from EDIS into and out of the proper conditioning circuit.

MS Manual
Installing the Ford EDIS System

Note that the PIP signal from the EDIS module to MegaSquirt® is like a Hall sensor signal (positive only square wave). As a result, you use the Hall input circuit, On a V3 board, jumper D1 and D2 (or install jumpers in their place when assembling).

The SAW signal from MegaSquirt-II to the module comes out on pin #17 of the 40 pin socket (labeled IGN), and is connected to the 5th hole of the JP1 socket (pin 8 of the MC9S12C64) on V2.2 boards (JS10 on V3.0 boards). The PIP signal goes to MegaSquirt-II via the DB37 pin 24. This is connected to pin 14 of the 40 pin socket (IRQ), and pin #1 of the MC9S12C64 processor.

To install EDIS with MegaSquirt-II, you connect:

V2.2 main board:

* the 5th hole of JP1 to the SAW pin (#3) on the EDIS module (which you can jumper to an unused DB37 pin, if you want),
* the PIP pin (#1 on the EDIS module) to DB37 pin #24,
* Make sure D8 (the 'John' Zener diode) is jumpered.

V3.0 main board:

* DB37 pin #36 to the SAW pin (#3) on the ignition module
* DB37 pin #24 to the PIP pin (#1) on the ignition module
* On the V3.0 main board:
o use the 'Hall sensor circuit' (step #50.a in the assembly guide) - jumper D1 and D2,
o jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink,
o jumper TSEL to OPTOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.
* jumper JS10 to IGN (this uses the processor port for the SAW signal directly),
* jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket,

If you are using the relay board with a v3 main board:

* the SAW signal connects to the S5 terminal (#11 on the 20 position terminal strip) on the relay board, it comes from DB37 pin 36 (make sure you have a wire connecting pin 36 to pin 36 in the MegaSquirt/relay board connecting cable),
* the PIP signal connects to the Tach terminal (#15 on the 20 position terminal strip) on the relay board, it goes to DB37 pin 24.

Here is my boards current jumper setup. I believe the pins are setup correctly.
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/440/picture041e.th.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/picture041e.jpg/)

[VolvoPunch]

Here is are a few screen shots of my ms controller settings.

http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/5937/ps1.png
http://img252.imageshack.us/img252/5937/ps1.png
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3853/ps3a.png

[domox]

Just out of curiosity, have you tried using MegaTune for the ignition setup? I'm not using TunerStudio because my poor little old thinkpad doesn't have the horsepower for it but MT works just fine. I haven't seen anyone use TS for the EDIS setup so I can't follow along with you there.

[VolvoPunch]

WooHoo! The car idles on it's own now. The metal braid shielding on the pip wire was touching my solder point at the edis connector! I cleaned that up and now the car idles! Thanks everyone for your help and a special thanks to Domox for sticking with me and helping me finish this.

[DNAsEqUeNcE]

Phat! Good to hear. So using an EDIS module MS will still control timing? No sparka/b crap huh? Apologies for the threadjack, good to see your ish running.

[VolvoPunch]

Phat! Good to hear. So using an EDIS module MS will still control timing? No sparka/b crap huh? Apologies for the threadjack, good to see your ish running.

Correct you can adjust the timing using EDIS. I still have a lot to learn this coming week when it comes to configuring MS but the car idles and it sounds good! :oogle: This is the best day I have had in weeks! I think using EDIS is one of the simplest ways to handle ignition. Most of these problems have been caused by simple wiring errors on my part.

[domox]

Outstanding news! Bet you had a big grin on your face when it started up. Now comes the fun part of tuning. Have fun!

[VolvoPunch]

Outstanding news! Bet you had a big grin on your face when it started up. Now comes the fun part of tuning. Have fun!

I have never been happier. :-D Thanks a ton for all of the support and guidance.

[domox]

Phat! Good to hear. So using an EDIS module MS will still control timing? No sparka/b crap huh? Apologies for the threadjack, good to see your ish running.

Yeah, it's easy peasy. Two wires, one for tach input for MS (PIP) and the advance line (SAW). The module controls everything. It's a pretty nice system and like I've said before, one of the best systems to use for spark for newcomers.

[domox]

I have never been happier. :-D Thanks a ton for all of the support and guidance.

Your welcome. But remember, you did all the work. You picked up troubleshooting skills, figured out your wiring problems, and didn't give up. Keep it up!

[VolvoPunch]

Your welcome. But remember, you did all the work. You picked up troubleshooting skills, figured out your wiring problems, and didn't give up. Keep it up!

I cannot talk all of the credit as I had another friend who helped me along the way. ;-)

[500dollar744ti]

I have never been happier. :-D Thanks a ton for all of the support and guidance.

Outstanding! good job for sticking with it! you will be very happy that you didn't give up as well!

[linuxman51]

Phat! Good to hear. So using an EDIS module MS will still control timing? No sparka/b crap huh? Apologies for the threadjack, good to see your ish running.

right, however it is somewhat/fairly limiting as you move on and up. great way to start though.

[Nick]

Nice job, Zac. I knew it had to be something silly like that. Iirc, that car is mostly ready to drive, right? That means the fun is only begining.

[VolvoPunch]

.