ZVOLV
03-04-2011, 05:08 AM
Do you want to know how to install Bosch LH2.4 EFI in your Volvo? Fantastic! It's very simple and only takes a few wires. We installed a 1994 B230FT and LH2.4 into a 1984 240 Turbo and this is how we did it.
Need:
-LH2.4 240 wiring harness.
-B230FT Engine OR drill/tap block for RPM sensor if attempting on a B21/23.
-LH2.4 Fuel Computer and Ignition Computer
-LH2.4 Flywheel or Flexplate and RPM sensor
-Complete rear axle or differential from electronic speedo 240
-Electronic speedo cluster
-LH2.4 Idle air motor
-LH2.4 MAF
-LH2.4 Coolant temp sensor
-Greentop injectors and resistor pack OR high resistance injectors like 850 Turbo orangetops
-2 small Custom fuel lines if converting from Kjet OR fuel lines from an EFI car
Process:
-First remove old engine bay harness
-Install B230FT and transmission of choice
-Install electronic speedo rear axle with gear ratio of choice.
-Install LH2.4 engine harness, run it thru firewall, and hook up computers.
-There is a wiring pigtail that goes from the computers and across the dashboard. There are only 5 wires here that need to be hooked up in order for your car to run.
Wire 1: Thicker Red/Yellow- Powers up the fuel pumps. Simply unplug your old 240 fuel pump relay (under driver dash) and put a male spade connector on the yel/red wire and plug it into the old fuel pump relay plug. You plug it into the terminal that has the old yel/red wire on it!
Wire 2: Thinner Red/Yellow: We put to fuse 5. Fused 12v Pwr for heated O2.
Wire 3: Red/Blk: Switched ign power from fuse 12.
Wire 4: Blue: Connect to male spade on the back of instrument cluster. Speed signal to ECU via cruise control output.
Wire 5: Oh yeah, if you want your ignition to work there is a 5th wire. By the igntion coil you will find a blue wire. Hook that up to your ignition coil! It used to go to your old igntion box mounted there by the coil. This blue wire feeds the 12v+ power to the coil whenever the igntion is on.
-The entire system (fuel pumps and computers) gets it's power from a RED wire from the battery. This has a fuse in it by the battery. This is the fuse for the main pump on a 240 as well, but the in tank pump runs thru a fuse.
- Relocate the MAF wiring to the other side. This was easy. We pulled all of the wires, except the brown/black ground wire, out of the harness carefully and moved them to the other side. For the ground wire (that black/brown) you cant pull it out because it grounds other things. You need to pull it out as much as you can and then attach it back to your MAF plug.
-Plug in 4 wire connector in your new 2.4 harness into the old firewall connector. Its grey.
-There are a few other wires that need to be hooked up for AC, ABS function, and Check Engine Light but the above wires are all it needs to RUN! Pink one is for Check Engine light BTW.
-For fuel lines you can either get a complete set of EFI fuel lines from a donor car, or you can have a custom feed line and return line made. We went to Parker hose fittings and got hooked up with both for about $20!
-For the speedo signal you just need to install a electronic speedo rear axle or attempt to install just the diff and diff cover in your existing housing. You will also need to install a electronic speedo cluster. There are two wires coming off the differential. You run the black wire to the same ground point with the black wire coming of the speedo. The blue wire from the diff cover goes directly to the instrument cluster. Then you need to hook up the red/black wire from the ignition switch to the back of the cluster. This will power the whole cluster up. Use the old wire that powered up your instrument cluster. More on this as I look at that part again.
-We also cut the blue/white wire from the TPS to the fuel ECU. Turbo cars dont need this WOT signal.
Also, this article is IN PROGRESS! This is just a start. I accidentally hit Submit too early also and cant change the thread title!
Need:
-LH2.4 240 wiring harness.
-B230FT Engine OR drill/tap block for RPM sensor if attempting on a B21/23.
-LH2.4 Fuel Computer and Ignition Computer
-LH2.4 Flywheel or Flexplate and RPM sensor
-Complete rear axle or differential from electronic speedo 240
-Electronic speedo cluster
-LH2.4 Idle air motor
-LH2.4 MAF
-LH2.4 Coolant temp sensor
-Greentop injectors and resistor pack OR high resistance injectors like 850 Turbo orangetops
-2 small Custom fuel lines if converting from Kjet OR fuel lines from an EFI car
Process:
-First remove old engine bay harness
-Install B230FT and transmission of choice
-Install electronic speedo rear axle with gear ratio of choice.
-Install LH2.4 engine harness, run it thru firewall, and hook up computers.
-There is a wiring pigtail that goes from the computers and across the dashboard. There are only 5 wires here that need to be hooked up in order for your car to run.
Wire 1: Thicker Red/Yellow- Powers up the fuel pumps. Simply unplug your old 240 fuel pump relay (under driver dash) and put a male spade connector on the yel/red wire and plug it into the old fuel pump relay plug. You plug it into the terminal that has the old yel/red wire on it!
Wire 2: Thinner Red/Yellow: We put to fuse 5. Fused 12v Pwr for heated O2.
Wire 3: Red/Blk: Switched ign power from fuse 12.
Wire 4: Blue: Connect to male spade on the back of instrument cluster. Speed signal to ECU via cruise control output.
Wire 5: Oh yeah, if you want your ignition to work there is a 5th wire. By the igntion coil you will find a blue wire. Hook that up to your ignition coil! It used to go to your old igntion box mounted there by the coil. This blue wire feeds the 12v+ power to the coil whenever the igntion is on.
-The entire system (fuel pumps and computers) gets it's power from a RED wire from the battery. This has a fuse in it by the battery. This is the fuse for the main pump on a 240 as well, but the in tank pump runs thru a fuse.
- Relocate the MAF wiring to the other side. This was easy. We pulled all of the wires, except the brown/black ground wire, out of the harness carefully and moved them to the other side. For the ground wire (that black/brown) you cant pull it out because it grounds other things. You need to pull it out as much as you can and then attach it back to your MAF plug.
-Plug in 4 wire connector in your new 2.4 harness into the old firewall connector. Its grey.
-There are a few other wires that need to be hooked up for AC, ABS function, and Check Engine Light but the above wires are all it needs to RUN! Pink one is for Check Engine light BTW.
-For fuel lines you can either get a complete set of EFI fuel lines from a donor car, or you can have a custom feed line and return line made. We went to Parker hose fittings and got hooked up with both for about $20!
-For the speedo signal you just need to install a electronic speedo rear axle or attempt to install just the diff and diff cover in your existing housing. You will also need to install a electronic speedo cluster. There are two wires coming off the differential. You run the black wire to the same ground point with the black wire coming of the speedo. The blue wire from the diff cover goes directly to the instrument cluster. Then you need to hook up the red/black wire from the ignition switch to the back of the cluster. This will power the whole cluster up. Use the old wire that powered up your instrument cluster. More on this as I look at that part again.
-We also cut the blue/white wire from the TPS to the fuel ECU. Turbo cars dont need this WOT signal.
Also, this article is IN PROGRESS! This is just a start. I accidentally hit Submit too early also and cant change the thread title!