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wesman83
03-31-2011, 09:50 PM
In case anyone else is interested... only 30 bux at Myer's Sandblasting (http://maps.google.com/maps/place?hl=en&safe=off&ie=UTF8&q=myer%27s+blasting+oakland&fb=1&gl=us&hq=myer%27s+blasting&hnear=Oakland,+CA&cid=5567932724976730844&t=h&z=14) in Oakland... looks brand new!

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_BlsUBFGKIZA/TZUfJ8yzUnI/AAAAAAAADTY/ihCriYh_jnI/s1024/IMG_6782.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_BlsUBFGKIZA/TZUfVwpLRAI/AAAAAAAADTc/3LATsKjVaKw/s1024/IMG_6783.JPG

nathaninwa
03-31-2011, 09:52 PM
I like the fresh blast look...my only complaint is its gets dirty so easily and hard to make it clean again.

wesman83
03-31-2011, 09:53 PM
I like the fresh blast look...my only complaint is its gets dirty so easily and hard to make it clean again.

any suggestions for finish?

nathaninwa
03-31-2011, 09:55 PM
if you like the look, see about clear coating it? I personally scotch brite all my stuff like that....its way easy to scotch it again at any time.

smokeyfan1000
03-31-2011, 10:09 PM
Paint it with hi temp engine paint? Clear will yellow.

I would also remove the NPT nipples & blow all the sand outof the intake, NPT threads, and the nipples, then wash it with soap & water a few times.

Sand + engine components= bad noises & much work

RCArmy434
04-01-2011, 01:09 AM
wet sand it until the surface is smoother. the thing with sandblasting is it leaves little pits that crud can get in, which will make it harder to clean.

Krisverde
04-01-2011, 03:45 AM
**** maybe I should start charging people to sand blast their parts.

Any idea what media they used to blast it with?

1970_Volvo_142S
04-01-2011, 07:22 AM
If you use high temp paint, make sure you cure it by baking it in an oven or at a minimum use a heat gun (after you're done with your bumpers of course)

wesman83
04-01-2011, 11:35 AM
**** maybe I should start charging people to sand blast their parts.

Any idea what media they used to blast it with?

bead blasted... i dont know the specifics. im probably just gonna run it as is.

smokeyfan1000
04-01-2011, 11:44 AM
Have it polished along with the cam cover, for the WIN.:nod:

euroshark
04-01-2011, 11:45 AM
If you run it like that it will probably get smudged and start oxidizing in no time. Seymour makes a paint called Alumi-Blast which sticks to aluminum very well and looks incredibly close to that freshly blasted finish. I've been using it on BMW projects and it's really nice stuff.

Freshly blasted (with sort of a heavy grit glass bead... they usually look nicer, like yours, with a finer bead, but I ran out)
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n386/euroshark/Euroshark%20II/Ian_Blasted_Diff_Cover.jpg?t=1301668890

And painted with Alumi-Blast
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n386/euroshark/Euroshark%20II/Ian_Diff_Cover_Painted_2.jpg?t=1301668964

Redwood Chair
04-01-2011, 11:49 AM
+1
You need to paint it right away as it oxidizes immediately.
Or use aluminum prep at this point.
I don't like to disturb the factory surface.
Cleaning with kerosene if it's not corroded ftw.

smokeyfan1000
04-01-2011, 12:06 PM
Before bead blasting, always, always tape off the gasket surfaces, especially on aluminum parts. And clean them thoroughly.

volvorod85
04-01-2011, 03:43 PM
Clear, it takes time to yellow, but is easily cleanable. Use a high temp clear and its a nice finish. I do it alot for contrast, bead blast a bracket or pipe then clear

Mark

shellshock
04-01-2011, 03:58 PM
Before bead blasting, always, always tape off the gasket surfaces, especially on aluminum parts. And clean them thoroughly.

Not needed. If you're using the right media, cleans up the gasket surfaces quite nicely. I will always go over them with 1000grit if I don't like the surface after.

euroshark
04-01-2011, 04:33 PM
There's a product by the company that makes POR-15 that is a clear which is designed to be applied to bare metals. Eastwood also sells one that seems to have decent reviews. You can get both of them in gloss or satin finishes I think.