TestPoint
01-13-2012, 09:15 PM
Chapter 2: Removing and installing engine and transmission
You are going to need an engine crane and a load leveler to pull and install the engine and transmission. In order to get the crane close enough, even at the longest reach, the bumper needs to be removed. Unbolt the drive shaft at the rear differential and at the transmission and the center bearing carrier. Use the center bearing carrier bolts to close up the holes in the floor pan if you are moving to a one piece drive shaft.
The front lighting, windshield washer pump and horn wiring to the interior of the car stays in place but the only other electrical connection you are going to use in the engine compartment is the 8 connector plug on the firewall and the A/C clutch wire. You will also need to retain the Volvo engine side female 8 wire connector to splice to the Ford engine wiring harness. Retain the Volvo radiator, AC hoses, PS hoses, and temperature and oil pressure sensors from the Volvo engine, the transmission fluid cooling lines and the drive shaft. Remove the transmission mount cross member for reuse.
Now is a good time to pressure wash and clean, and perhaps paint the engine bay.
The PS/AC bracket should be removed from the engine just for in and out reasons. If you thought that one installation would work then perhaps you could leave them on but I am on my 10th engine install at the moment.
The intake manifold is just too high, when the engine is tilted to clear the cross member, to provide clearance from the firewall to the cross member. It should be removed which will then make engine/transmission install fairly easy. I tried dropping the entire front end cross member and suspension trying to get clearance without success. You will just have to take your chances on an intake manifold vacuum leak. If you insist on attempting the install of the engine/transmission with the intake manifold in place please take a moment to remove the plastic Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve as you will surly break it against the firewall.
Before you begin trying the engine/transmission for fit you need to address the clearance issues with the right exhaust, the transmission tunnel shift switch and linkage and other transmission and drive shaft issues.
The heater hose connections are difficult to get to with the engine in place so any clean up and connections are best done early.
Also, there is an engine ground connection dead center top rear of the engine that is just about impossible to get to with the engine in place.
I had to add 6 new wires through the firewall later, after the engine was installed, and it would have been much easier to have done that at this time.
Using the Explorer throttle cable requires that the firewall hole needs to be enlarged to 3/4" with a step drill. It's a little tight after the engine is there.
The PCM should be installed inside the passenger area due to heat and water considerations. Cutting a hole for this is best done before the engine is installed.
See the discussions on these issues in their respective chapters before attempting to install the engine.
The oil pan originally on this engine will not clear the steering rack and cross member. An ’85 – ’93 FOX Body Mustang/Thunderbird double slump oil pan works. There are several other Ford/Mercury/Lincoln sedan 302 cars that also use the same oil pan so they are not difficult to obtain used. I found one on eBay for $5. You will also need the oil pump pick-up tube from the earlier engines.
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy4/tporterellijaycom/71DoubleSlumpOilPan.jpg
Explorer Oil Pan vs FOX Body
The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257
You are going to need an engine crane and a load leveler to pull and install the engine and transmission. In order to get the crane close enough, even at the longest reach, the bumper needs to be removed. Unbolt the drive shaft at the rear differential and at the transmission and the center bearing carrier. Use the center bearing carrier bolts to close up the holes in the floor pan if you are moving to a one piece drive shaft.
The front lighting, windshield washer pump and horn wiring to the interior of the car stays in place but the only other electrical connection you are going to use in the engine compartment is the 8 connector plug on the firewall and the A/C clutch wire. You will also need to retain the Volvo engine side female 8 wire connector to splice to the Ford engine wiring harness. Retain the Volvo radiator, AC hoses, PS hoses, and temperature and oil pressure sensors from the Volvo engine, the transmission fluid cooling lines and the drive shaft. Remove the transmission mount cross member for reuse.
Now is a good time to pressure wash and clean, and perhaps paint the engine bay.
The PS/AC bracket should be removed from the engine just for in and out reasons. If you thought that one installation would work then perhaps you could leave them on but I am on my 10th engine install at the moment.
The intake manifold is just too high, when the engine is tilted to clear the cross member, to provide clearance from the firewall to the cross member. It should be removed which will then make engine/transmission install fairly easy. I tried dropping the entire front end cross member and suspension trying to get clearance without success. You will just have to take your chances on an intake manifold vacuum leak. If you insist on attempting the install of the engine/transmission with the intake manifold in place please take a moment to remove the plastic Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve as you will surly break it against the firewall.
Before you begin trying the engine/transmission for fit you need to address the clearance issues with the right exhaust, the transmission tunnel shift switch and linkage and other transmission and drive shaft issues.
The heater hose connections are difficult to get to with the engine in place so any clean up and connections are best done early.
Also, there is an engine ground connection dead center top rear of the engine that is just about impossible to get to with the engine in place.
I had to add 6 new wires through the firewall later, after the engine was installed, and it would have been much easier to have done that at this time.
Using the Explorer throttle cable requires that the firewall hole needs to be enlarged to 3/4" with a step drill. It's a little tight after the engine is there.
The PCM should be installed inside the passenger area due to heat and water considerations. Cutting a hole for this is best done before the engine is installed.
See the discussions on these issues in their respective chapters before attempting to install the engine.
The oil pan originally on this engine will not clear the steering rack and cross member. An ’85 – ’93 FOX Body Mustang/Thunderbird double slump oil pan works. There are several other Ford/Mercury/Lincoln sedan 302 cars that also use the same oil pan so they are not difficult to obtain used. I found one on eBay for $5. You will also need the oil pump pick-up tube from the earlier engines.
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy4/tporterellijaycom/71DoubleSlumpOilPan.jpg
Explorer Oil Pan vs FOX Body
The parent document for this thread can be found here: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=250257