haltechsupra
09-21-2004, 02:28 AM
ok heres what i have -a 1990 volvo turbo 740-started out turbo and still is-just has a b230 f (1990 model) Normally aspirated motor with a larger turbo bolted up, thunderbird super 60 (modded).
Supra injectors-yes they work. Use the NEW volvo injector seals from volvo-and petroleum jelly to install , bend the stock volvo clips a bit to hold the injectors in and buy a potentiometer from radio shack and tap it into the voltage signal going back to the ecu (blue and red wire from air mass meter) and unhook o2 sensor and use wideband to tune so that at idle it runs at desired air fuel ratio you would want at full throttle (however it will be idleing), plug back in and whala! They fit right into the stock volvo fuel rail with some added elbow grease.The mk3 (1986-1991 turbo supra 7mgte ) injectors are rated at 430 cc. I like them -however on my na/turbo motor i still acheive boost cut at 15 psi :( tons of black smoke tells me that the boost cut and rev limit are both controlled on the fuel side -not spark.
More on tuning.
The idle is not the problem-the ecu will learn in a matter of a few minutes just how much fuel is needed/not needed to keep the car idleing smoothly. The ecu will have to be reset by unplugging the battery or pulling fuse. Then you will have to crank it a few times to get the o2 sensor warm before it will start adjusting the fuel curve to smoothen out the idle. The first time i did this it took almost 10 minutes to get the car started (the o2 sensor is cold people!). Dont be discouraged-its normal learning process. Then you will hear the motor making changes and the idle will smoothen out after about 2-10 minutes.
The problems start when you go drive the car and you start hitting boost-or high revs-because then the 02 sensor basically switches off and the ecu pre programmed fuel maps take over, obviously if the maps were perfect for smaller injectors-they will be too rich now with larger-so you fool the source that tells the ecu what map to run off of. You do that by buying a Potentiometer from radio Shack or the like that has an adjustable knob that adjust from 300 to 10k ohms , expect to pay a bone breaking $3.50 for this fully adjustable vpc-afc whatever you feel like calling it. I call it the "new Hotness", because now you have the fuel to run whatever turbo size you want within reason, with the exception of boost cut. I have found that with an npr isuzu intercooler (had it on for a few days now along with t cam-WOW what a difference!) that my usual 15psi went down to 12/13 psi with the intercooler swap(tube and fin on in and outside causes pressure drop=thus better intercooling affect as air slows down to be cooled then speeds back up as it radiates the heat to the outside. The stock volvo intercoolers dont have hardly any pressure drop- however heat up very quickly and dont intercool much of anything after about 10 seconds of hard boost, because there are no fins to dissapate the heat from the boosted air inside the tubes on a stock volvo intercooler-thus less intercooled effect=less pressure drop. THe isuzu is a trade off-alot better intercooling affect-however the motor sees less boost at the same wastegate adjustment. BUT the air mass meter still reads the same. All this means that boost cut comes in quicker. Ive heard people say that the l.h 2.4 doesnt have boost cut-BS-it does. I heard other say it comes in at 18psi-that i believe on a stock car. Mine comes in at 14.5-15 psi with the npr in and supra injectors, t3 super 60 thunderchicken turbo-na b230f with later 90+ manifold and a few other things. Its not spark cut either-its fuel, just like on the supra-which i found out the hard way useing a fuel controller (only fuel ) from haltech, car revs till it runs out of fuel or blows up or gets too rich. The pulsewidth is usually ramped way up to bog the motor then leaned out a touch to give that rev limiter sound-and Black smoke emits from exhaust, like i said i know this from experience and can now program a rev limiter on my haltech(s) by only reprogramming the fuel side of things. It saves the motor But at the same time is very annoying if your turbo starts getting into its sweet spot at 15 psi!!! I dont know yet how to eliminate the boost cut or if it can be . I sure would like to find out though!
Ok back to the subject at hand. UNplug the o2 sensor after car idles for 10-15 minutes and it smooths out-youll hear the motor ramp up and down and the o2 sensor cyle and the car may even cut off once or twice trying to "see " what fuel it needs at idle. Its perfectly normal. These are big injectors-just be happy you dont have to adjust fuel for the idle part throttle situation-its the hardest to tune-so be happy and sit back and admire the work the volvo ecu takes off your shoulders! After it idles smoothly for about 5-10 minutes, unplug the o2 sensor-the car will fall on its face-and cut off-just to prove what i said is true. Plug back in.
Get a potentiometer from Radio shack-solder it in the signal wire from the amm back to the ecu. Restart the car with the potentiometer bottomed out at its lowest setting(full rich)1 ohm or so. Wow it still idles the same-WERD! Now have a buddy turn the pot or sit in the car and watch your air fuel gauge-wideband-whatever, and start the pot at a baseline 100ohms (use voltmeter and record your results everytime you adjust the pot-it will help you trouble shoot other problems later like boost leaks and such) Get a tube of super glue and keep it handy along with fingernail polish.The super glue holds the knob from rattling to a different setting-you will find the knob is VERY VERY sensitive. Use polish to get the super glue off for and readjustmenst or fine tuning.
For adjustmenst i use this method- let the car run for 10-15 minutes, unplug o2 sensor from ecu-two plugs on firewall-with car running-if car stalls -its too rich or too lean, readjust pot-try to start twice-if no good-plug 02 back in as to not flood the car-restart-readjust , unplug o2, check air fuel ratio. The whole purpose here with the car idleing is to get the air fuel ratio where you would want the car at if it were at full boost at redline, i personaly like the 12.5.1 range -but wouldnt go any leaner than 12.9.1 for a turbo car-thats my preference-to each thier own! So adjust the pot so that the car tries to idle at 12.5.1 a/f ratio or if you have a air feul ratio meter(autometer) set it where it runs 1-3 leds in the green at idle-this equates to 2-4 leds green at wide open throttle(wot) at full boost. Plug your o2 sensor back in , take car for test drive. I cannot stress enough to TAKE IT EASY FOR THE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF DRIVING, the ecu and o2 sensor will be communicating back and forth and the ecu will still be learning the fuel curves for part throttle reg cruiseing fuel maps-so take it easy-let the ecu learn, no boost at first-go uphill -downhill-turn all accesories on-lights-the whole nine and give the car the worst situation possible so that it will know what to do when you do use all the accessories and drop the voltage to the pump by half a volt or so. load the car down with as much wieght as possible for the worst situation-to absolutely make sure that it learns correctly the first time! You dont have to take these precautions but i choose to and my car has been awesome( neck and neck with 20psi half assed programed stand alone mr2 saturday night-when i was bouncing off fuel cut-grainger valve issue!), and i drive it every day hard as hell.
Slowly ease into boost-start at 5 psi , you will notice that your air fuel gauge will cycle on up to about 3-5psi then it should go 2leds or more in the green-i accept no less under 15psi-full boost. Start out on a flat road then load weight into the car or find the steepest road you can find and test up the hill with complete caution for you-your car and everyone around you. Then graudually get into more boost if you like what you see. Check your air fuel ratios-wideband. Then glue down when its where you want it-let sit for 30 minutes for glue to dry and it shouldnt change unless a boost leak develops or other mechanical issues.
FYI i have used this setup for about 7 months now on my stock b230f motor with a t cam, have driven to Virginia from Texas, all around Va, then to North Carolina-then South Carolina, dynoed -got my air fuel ratios somewhat correct but had turbo backing off exhaust manifold-then drove back to Texas. So far i have put approximately 10,000 miles on this motor setup (it probably already had 100,000 on the motor when i got it used) and i havent had to do anything to the motor except cam replacement-and that was by choice. The m cam just plain sucks. The compression on the m cam was 230 on each cylinder-my compression with the t cam is 150 on each cylinder. BIG difference! Top end is very amazing now and i have more useable power-where as with the m cam-at full boost at 3200 rpm the rear end was just lighting the tires up with all that torque which quickly went away as revs increase. With the t cam-the effect is quite opposite. Tons of high end torque, good na power down low.
I take no reponsibility for any damage caused by any reason, for anyone tying to duplicate above procedures and mods without my supervision ;)
http://home.comcast.net/~volvo4life/Index.html
dYNO- air fuel; ratio with pot and 430cc supra injectors-this is my desired air fuel ratio for my 9.7.1 compression ratio-M cam
I just ran a 9.4 at kennedale 1/8 with my set up at 73 mph @ 13 psi (90 degrees out side)
with a super 60 t bird modded turbo and all the other mods i have before mentioned. I see no problem with the L.h 2.4 personally! My Tranny has problems with it though.... But ive driven it really hard for 6 months -dynoed four times-drove from Texas to Va and back, raced it at the track on numerous occasions and raced on the street a *few* times. I didnt run with the vacuum leak like i was planning to do (didnt have access to buddies innovative wideband today) at 18psi-so instead i ran 13 psi-and actually hit fuel cut mid track -which i completely forgot about -until now.Second run tranny RIP...
With the na Junkyard motor -none the less!
Now some say the l.h 2.4 wont learn-thats just not true, if that were the case my car would never idle. It learns up to a point-for my car that point is 1-5psi due to elevation in Tx, i noticed that in Va it was right at boost (0 on my boost vac gauge)-so it changes with elevation-from state to state (via my air fuel ratio gauge and its cycling antics)
. But it does learn, but only in closed loop. So you dont have to tune squat to save gas mileage, and to retain your part throttle cruising. You do have to tune full boost wot runs. And yes the ecu wont learn the wot full boost runs-those maps are preprogrammed(open loop) -so manipulation must be done. Timing is easily cured with octane booster. In my setup its manditory if i want to go anywhere quickly without the ping demons . My setup however seems to be laggy and ive finally figured out why. The supra bypass valve makes it that way to (i had hoped) save my auto from breaking. It did work for alot longer than expected, but she finally did succomb to the demons.Also the super 60 is a little laggy.
Tuning has never been easier and after tuning haltechs,motecs , vafc's, afc's , hondata's, aem,fast, and so on....
-id much prefer breaking out my ohm meter and adjusting my pot as opposed to week after week of endless tuning with a laptop, call me crazy. SOME tune while i replace trannies. LOL. I do like aem though-they are bad ass! Motec is very nice too but $$$, every one of those systems has thier advantages-but to me the disadvantages far over weigh when it comes to getting it relaible , streetable-emmission passable, and daily driver compatiable , and thats all ive been screaming the whole time. You want to run 12's in the quarter-the l.h 2.4 wont do it without some really serious thinking involved(if then)-get a stand alone of what ever caliber. Want to be reliable-yet still dust people on the street -or at the track, and save some money, dont throw out the lh 2.4 .
Anyways -didnt most of us buy a volvo for thier daily driver reliability? I know i did. I like the fact i can pile 6 people into my car and go tool around town reliably. If i want to play with my laptop-i jump in the supra and go blast people- but hell -to be honest-i break it like every other week-that comes with speed-you go fast, you break stuff(usually). But poineering a full fuel map for a car IS NOT FOR EVERYONE! Most dont have half the tools required -or the know how to start such a big transformation-so respect that!
The time some waste in tuning i use to have fun driving, playing, spending time with my family, and that to me is what it is all about. Again this may not be the case for everyone, but its my case scenario. So lets figure out how to get around the lh2.4 limitations -mostly boost cut..
My times at the track. 1/8th mile.
r/t .694
60' 2.111 (hells yes people- peg leg and all -better than the supra with street tires 2.3)
330 6.110
mph 56.74
1/8th 9.405
mph 73.26
Dyno with m cam- low boost -9psi an slightly tuned pot with supra injectors, no npr at the time-stock volvo intercooler.Pot adjusted to 73ohms
http://oregonstate.edu/~mcmullse/Kris's%20Dyno%20Runs/KRISTGLOWBOOST.jpg
High boost run before tuning pot-see it works!I ran so rich i couldnt make it to redline with the na/ turbo motor setup! 13/14 psi Pot bottomed out on full rich 1ohm.
http://home.comcast.net/~volvofourlife/KRISPCHIGHBOOST.jpg
and of course the power figures to go with above dyno charts. All done on Mustang dyno with claimate contol software-mustang dyno typically reads 20% lower than dyno jet.Look on www.p1auto.com for more info and compare my dynos with others on the forum
http://home.comcast.net/~volvofourlife/KRISTGHIGHBOOST.jpg
low boost with m cam
http://oregonstate.edu/~mcmullse/Kris's%20Dyno%20Runs/KRISPCLOWBOOST.jpg
In order to swap in b230 f motor i pulled oil pan off and drilled above baffle towards rear of oil pan three wholes for extra garret turbo oil return line flange -made a stencil to get the wholes perfect, then used stock return line gasket and silicone, and two bolts, nuts and lockwashers to bolt it into place, locktighing the nuts from the inside of the oil pan. I then added silicone around the outside of the pan to make sure there would be no oil leaks-allowed to dry for 24 hours before use. I joined that cut return line to the stock cut oil return line with a high pressure rubber hose with two hose clamps. I used the oil pickup source from the oil pressure sender unit-out fittied with a "t " fitting from the hardware store to run both my stock mechanical oil pressure gauge and the oil feed line to turbo, joining the t fitting with a stainless steel braided hose with hose clamps -clamped to the oil feed line to the turbo.I left the stock head on the stock na block, and left all the sensors on including the stock na knock sensor which turned out to be a awesome choice. I used the remaining turbo hardware like maf and other hoses for the swap. Pretty straight forward and bolted right in-with the exception of switching out the flywheel, i did swap that out from my b230ft motor -make sure to put the motor on tdc and mark the flywheel before pulling off and reinstalling on new motor-or many problems will be had!
Kris Weldy
Arlington Texas
http://home.comcast.net/~volvo4life/Index.html
Supra injectors-yes they work. Use the NEW volvo injector seals from volvo-and petroleum jelly to install , bend the stock volvo clips a bit to hold the injectors in and buy a potentiometer from radio shack and tap it into the voltage signal going back to the ecu (blue and red wire from air mass meter) and unhook o2 sensor and use wideband to tune so that at idle it runs at desired air fuel ratio you would want at full throttle (however it will be idleing), plug back in and whala! They fit right into the stock volvo fuel rail with some added elbow grease.The mk3 (1986-1991 turbo supra 7mgte ) injectors are rated at 430 cc. I like them -however on my na/turbo motor i still acheive boost cut at 15 psi :( tons of black smoke tells me that the boost cut and rev limit are both controlled on the fuel side -not spark.
More on tuning.
The idle is not the problem-the ecu will learn in a matter of a few minutes just how much fuel is needed/not needed to keep the car idleing smoothly. The ecu will have to be reset by unplugging the battery or pulling fuse. Then you will have to crank it a few times to get the o2 sensor warm before it will start adjusting the fuel curve to smoothen out the idle. The first time i did this it took almost 10 minutes to get the car started (the o2 sensor is cold people!). Dont be discouraged-its normal learning process. Then you will hear the motor making changes and the idle will smoothen out after about 2-10 minutes.
The problems start when you go drive the car and you start hitting boost-or high revs-because then the 02 sensor basically switches off and the ecu pre programmed fuel maps take over, obviously if the maps were perfect for smaller injectors-they will be too rich now with larger-so you fool the source that tells the ecu what map to run off of. You do that by buying a Potentiometer from radio Shack or the like that has an adjustable knob that adjust from 300 to 10k ohms , expect to pay a bone breaking $3.50 for this fully adjustable vpc-afc whatever you feel like calling it. I call it the "new Hotness", because now you have the fuel to run whatever turbo size you want within reason, with the exception of boost cut. I have found that with an npr isuzu intercooler (had it on for a few days now along with t cam-WOW what a difference!) that my usual 15psi went down to 12/13 psi with the intercooler swap(tube and fin on in and outside causes pressure drop=thus better intercooling affect as air slows down to be cooled then speeds back up as it radiates the heat to the outside. The stock volvo intercoolers dont have hardly any pressure drop- however heat up very quickly and dont intercool much of anything after about 10 seconds of hard boost, because there are no fins to dissapate the heat from the boosted air inside the tubes on a stock volvo intercooler-thus less intercooled effect=less pressure drop. THe isuzu is a trade off-alot better intercooling affect-however the motor sees less boost at the same wastegate adjustment. BUT the air mass meter still reads the same. All this means that boost cut comes in quicker. Ive heard people say that the l.h 2.4 doesnt have boost cut-BS-it does. I heard other say it comes in at 18psi-that i believe on a stock car. Mine comes in at 14.5-15 psi with the npr in and supra injectors, t3 super 60 thunderchicken turbo-na b230f with later 90+ manifold and a few other things. Its not spark cut either-its fuel, just like on the supra-which i found out the hard way useing a fuel controller (only fuel ) from haltech, car revs till it runs out of fuel or blows up or gets too rich. The pulsewidth is usually ramped way up to bog the motor then leaned out a touch to give that rev limiter sound-and Black smoke emits from exhaust, like i said i know this from experience and can now program a rev limiter on my haltech(s) by only reprogramming the fuel side of things. It saves the motor But at the same time is very annoying if your turbo starts getting into its sweet spot at 15 psi!!! I dont know yet how to eliminate the boost cut or if it can be . I sure would like to find out though!
Ok back to the subject at hand. UNplug the o2 sensor after car idles for 10-15 minutes and it smooths out-youll hear the motor ramp up and down and the o2 sensor cyle and the car may even cut off once or twice trying to "see " what fuel it needs at idle. Its perfectly normal. These are big injectors-just be happy you dont have to adjust fuel for the idle part throttle situation-its the hardest to tune-so be happy and sit back and admire the work the volvo ecu takes off your shoulders! After it idles smoothly for about 5-10 minutes, unplug the o2 sensor-the car will fall on its face-and cut off-just to prove what i said is true. Plug back in.
Get a potentiometer from Radio shack-solder it in the signal wire from the amm back to the ecu. Restart the car with the potentiometer bottomed out at its lowest setting(full rich)1 ohm or so. Wow it still idles the same-WERD! Now have a buddy turn the pot or sit in the car and watch your air fuel gauge-wideband-whatever, and start the pot at a baseline 100ohms (use voltmeter and record your results everytime you adjust the pot-it will help you trouble shoot other problems later like boost leaks and such) Get a tube of super glue and keep it handy along with fingernail polish.The super glue holds the knob from rattling to a different setting-you will find the knob is VERY VERY sensitive. Use polish to get the super glue off for and readjustmenst or fine tuning.
For adjustmenst i use this method- let the car run for 10-15 minutes, unplug o2 sensor from ecu-two plugs on firewall-with car running-if car stalls -its too rich or too lean, readjust pot-try to start twice-if no good-plug 02 back in as to not flood the car-restart-readjust , unplug o2, check air fuel ratio. The whole purpose here with the car idleing is to get the air fuel ratio where you would want the car at if it were at full boost at redline, i personaly like the 12.5.1 range -but wouldnt go any leaner than 12.9.1 for a turbo car-thats my preference-to each thier own! So adjust the pot so that the car tries to idle at 12.5.1 a/f ratio or if you have a air feul ratio meter(autometer) set it where it runs 1-3 leds in the green at idle-this equates to 2-4 leds green at wide open throttle(wot) at full boost. Plug your o2 sensor back in , take car for test drive. I cannot stress enough to TAKE IT EASY FOR THE FIRST TEN MINUTES OF DRIVING, the ecu and o2 sensor will be communicating back and forth and the ecu will still be learning the fuel curves for part throttle reg cruiseing fuel maps-so take it easy-let the ecu learn, no boost at first-go uphill -downhill-turn all accesories on-lights-the whole nine and give the car the worst situation possible so that it will know what to do when you do use all the accessories and drop the voltage to the pump by half a volt or so. load the car down with as much wieght as possible for the worst situation-to absolutely make sure that it learns correctly the first time! You dont have to take these precautions but i choose to and my car has been awesome( neck and neck with 20psi half assed programed stand alone mr2 saturday night-when i was bouncing off fuel cut-grainger valve issue!), and i drive it every day hard as hell.
Slowly ease into boost-start at 5 psi , you will notice that your air fuel gauge will cycle on up to about 3-5psi then it should go 2leds or more in the green-i accept no less under 15psi-full boost. Start out on a flat road then load weight into the car or find the steepest road you can find and test up the hill with complete caution for you-your car and everyone around you. Then graudually get into more boost if you like what you see. Check your air fuel ratios-wideband. Then glue down when its where you want it-let sit for 30 minutes for glue to dry and it shouldnt change unless a boost leak develops or other mechanical issues.
FYI i have used this setup for about 7 months now on my stock b230f motor with a t cam, have driven to Virginia from Texas, all around Va, then to North Carolina-then South Carolina, dynoed -got my air fuel ratios somewhat correct but had turbo backing off exhaust manifold-then drove back to Texas. So far i have put approximately 10,000 miles on this motor setup (it probably already had 100,000 on the motor when i got it used) and i havent had to do anything to the motor except cam replacement-and that was by choice. The m cam just plain sucks. The compression on the m cam was 230 on each cylinder-my compression with the t cam is 150 on each cylinder. BIG difference! Top end is very amazing now and i have more useable power-where as with the m cam-at full boost at 3200 rpm the rear end was just lighting the tires up with all that torque which quickly went away as revs increase. With the t cam-the effect is quite opposite. Tons of high end torque, good na power down low.
I take no reponsibility for any damage caused by any reason, for anyone tying to duplicate above procedures and mods without my supervision ;)
http://home.comcast.net/~volvo4life/Index.html
dYNO- air fuel; ratio with pot and 430cc supra injectors-this is my desired air fuel ratio for my 9.7.1 compression ratio-M cam
I just ran a 9.4 at kennedale 1/8 with my set up at 73 mph @ 13 psi (90 degrees out side)
with a super 60 t bird modded turbo and all the other mods i have before mentioned. I see no problem with the L.h 2.4 personally! My Tranny has problems with it though.... But ive driven it really hard for 6 months -dynoed four times-drove from Texas to Va and back, raced it at the track on numerous occasions and raced on the street a *few* times. I didnt run with the vacuum leak like i was planning to do (didnt have access to buddies innovative wideband today) at 18psi-so instead i ran 13 psi-and actually hit fuel cut mid track -which i completely forgot about -until now.Second run tranny RIP...
With the na Junkyard motor -none the less!
Now some say the l.h 2.4 wont learn-thats just not true, if that were the case my car would never idle. It learns up to a point-for my car that point is 1-5psi due to elevation in Tx, i noticed that in Va it was right at boost (0 on my boost vac gauge)-so it changes with elevation-from state to state (via my air fuel ratio gauge and its cycling antics)
. But it does learn, but only in closed loop. So you dont have to tune squat to save gas mileage, and to retain your part throttle cruising. You do have to tune full boost wot runs. And yes the ecu wont learn the wot full boost runs-those maps are preprogrammed(open loop) -so manipulation must be done. Timing is easily cured with octane booster. In my setup its manditory if i want to go anywhere quickly without the ping demons . My setup however seems to be laggy and ive finally figured out why. The supra bypass valve makes it that way to (i had hoped) save my auto from breaking. It did work for alot longer than expected, but she finally did succomb to the demons.Also the super 60 is a little laggy.
Tuning has never been easier and after tuning haltechs,motecs , vafc's, afc's , hondata's, aem,fast, and so on....
-id much prefer breaking out my ohm meter and adjusting my pot as opposed to week after week of endless tuning with a laptop, call me crazy. SOME tune while i replace trannies. LOL. I do like aem though-they are bad ass! Motec is very nice too but $$$, every one of those systems has thier advantages-but to me the disadvantages far over weigh when it comes to getting it relaible , streetable-emmission passable, and daily driver compatiable , and thats all ive been screaming the whole time. You want to run 12's in the quarter-the l.h 2.4 wont do it without some really serious thinking involved(if then)-get a stand alone of what ever caliber. Want to be reliable-yet still dust people on the street -or at the track, and save some money, dont throw out the lh 2.4 .
Anyways -didnt most of us buy a volvo for thier daily driver reliability? I know i did. I like the fact i can pile 6 people into my car and go tool around town reliably. If i want to play with my laptop-i jump in the supra and go blast people- but hell -to be honest-i break it like every other week-that comes with speed-you go fast, you break stuff(usually). But poineering a full fuel map for a car IS NOT FOR EVERYONE! Most dont have half the tools required -or the know how to start such a big transformation-so respect that!
The time some waste in tuning i use to have fun driving, playing, spending time with my family, and that to me is what it is all about. Again this may not be the case for everyone, but its my case scenario. So lets figure out how to get around the lh2.4 limitations -mostly boost cut..
My times at the track. 1/8th mile.
r/t .694
60' 2.111 (hells yes people- peg leg and all -better than the supra with street tires 2.3)
330 6.110
mph 56.74
1/8th 9.405
mph 73.26
Dyno with m cam- low boost -9psi an slightly tuned pot with supra injectors, no npr at the time-stock volvo intercooler.Pot adjusted to 73ohms
http://oregonstate.edu/~mcmullse/Kris's%20Dyno%20Runs/KRISTGLOWBOOST.jpg
High boost run before tuning pot-see it works!I ran so rich i couldnt make it to redline with the na/ turbo motor setup! 13/14 psi Pot bottomed out on full rich 1ohm.
http://home.comcast.net/~volvofourlife/KRISPCHIGHBOOST.jpg
and of course the power figures to go with above dyno charts. All done on Mustang dyno with claimate contol software-mustang dyno typically reads 20% lower than dyno jet.Look on www.p1auto.com for more info and compare my dynos with others on the forum
http://home.comcast.net/~volvofourlife/KRISTGHIGHBOOST.jpg
low boost with m cam
http://oregonstate.edu/~mcmullse/Kris's%20Dyno%20Runs/KRISPCLOWBOOST.jpg
In order to swap in b230 f motor i pulled oil pan off and drilled above baffle towards rear of oil pan three wholes for extra garret turbo oil return line flange -made a stencil to get the wholes perfect, then used stock return line gasket and silicone, and two bolts, nuts and lockwashers to bolt it into place, locktighing the nuts from the inside of the oil pan. I then added silicone around the outside of the pan to make sure there would be no oil leaks-allowed to dry for 24 hours before use. I joined that cut return line to the stock cut oil return line with a high pressure rubber hose with two hose clamps. I used the oil pickup source from the oil pressure sender unit-out fittied with a "t " fitting from the hardware store to run both my stock mechanical oil pressure gauge and the oil feed line to turbo, joining the t fitting with a stainless steel braided hose with hose clamps -clamped to the oil feed line to the turbo.I left the stock head on the stock na block, and left all the sensors on including the stock na knock sensor which turned out to be a awesome choice. I used the remaining turbo hardware like maf and other hoses for the swap. Pretty straight forward and bolted right in-with the exception of switching out the flywheel, i did swap that out from my b230ft motor -make sure to put the motor on tdc and mark the flywheel before pulling off and reinstalling on new motor-or many problems will be had!
Kris Weldy
Arlington Texas
http://home.comcast.net/~volvo4life/Index.html