View Full Version : G80 Locker Mod
DeathWagon
09-28-2004, 02:47 PM
Soo I installed a locker from a 91 740 turbo in my car a few weeks back. I was happy with the way it worked accept for the fact that it wouldent lockup much past 20 mph. Well as yall know i enjoy the high speed drift every once and a while so this lockers performance just wouldent do. I found there is a speed governor that keeps the locker from engageing above 20mph soo all i have to do is mod that. There is a weight inside the carrier that is about 1 1/2 long and about 1 1/2 inches wide. It slings out past 20 mph and keeps the locker from activating. I busted out the grinder and decided to reduce the weight so it would swing out at a higher speed. The real trick is to keep all the particles out of the rest of the diff or it might wear out very quickly. Also I had to use a grinder with carbon disks because the weight is HARDEND Steel. I removed about 15-20 percent of it and tried to remove the weight as far away from the pivot as possiable so the removed weight would be more affective.
The result was a locker that will lock up till about 50mph now and alows for full fun drifting and higher exit speeds out of the corner.
I will try to find some pics to describe this better but for a really good video on how the locker works go to eaton's website and chekc out the link for the G80 locker. http://www.traction.eaton.com/prod2.htm
Here is a pic of the weight you want to lighten
http://www.hardcars.com/thepriestmike/g80mod.jpg
Enjoy
Sam Collier
thelostartof
09-28-2004, 03:58 PM
great write up .. want me to cut and resize and host that pic for ya?
also just kind of my experiance w/ this locker(as its stock in my 91') that i've found once it engages it will stay engaged till i let off the gas @ least on my car. also from higher speeds if i break traction its always both tires spinning ... so yea mine might be one of those odd balls but for some reason mine will always lock when one starts to spin as i've never had this car just spin one wheel always both
http://www.hardcars.com/thepriestmike/g80mod.jpg
volvo9
09-28-2004, 11:13 PM
Nice mod, I was just thinking of something like that the other day.
That's normal operation BTW, once it locks, it stays locked till you let off the gas.
Oh, and the cutoff wheel on the grinder must have made one hella mess, how did you clean it up when you where done?
Chigga 744SE
09-30-2004, 09:32 AM
great idea, I've always hated mine when comes to auto-x and drifting events, I alway spin the inside wheel when on gas and its awfully embarassing, people go "you spun both wheels off the line, how come only one spun at that corner?", I just go "ugh....... the locker is gay.
thelostartof
09-30-2004, 01:26 PM
how is it that my locker doesn't act like anyone elses in the way that around corners @ higher speeds mine will always be locked .... i have never had an issue w/ just one tire spining its always both on mine(makes for some interesting times)
Matt Dupuis
11-16-2005, 01:18 PM
Bumpsy-daisy.
I just picked up a locker of my own and after having a look at it, I came to the same conclusion Sam did. Decided I'd do a write up on it, but I'd better have a look first... found this.
I'll take some pix today and tomorrow & add them to this thread.
Dfer10
11-16-2005, 01:24 PM
sweet sounds good Matt
740ATL
11-16-2005, 01:25 PM
Bumpsy-daisy.
I just picked up a locker of my own and after having a look at it, I came to the same conclusion Sam did. Decided I'd do a write up on it, but I'd better have a look first... found this.
I'll take some pix today and tomorrow & add them to this thread.
Matt, please do... I'd like to see the pics.
Mike
boostdemon
11-16-2005, 02:34 PM
... and then submit it! looks good guys
Matt Dupuis
11-17-2005, 10:18 AM
Got it apart and clean last night - I'm at work right now so no pix yet. Pretty simple in operation, and should be cake to modify properly but you'll have to go a bit further than just pulling the inspection cover and let the sparks fly.
One thing I'm a bit worried about is getting the cross pin aligned properly. It's an interference fit and takes quite a bit of force to get moving. I don't have a press, so I'm thinking that I'll have to heat up the case and chill the pin and work quickly! Fortunately this step isn't mandatory for anyone wanting to modify their locker - I just wanted to fully inspect mine and make sure it was clean - the oil in this unit was DREADFUL.
More work on it tonight, and pix soon.
Matt Dupuis
11-18-2005, 01:04 AM
I think it's pretty obvious to state that by doing this mod, you must have faith in your skills, your tools, and that this is what you want to do. It's un-reversable, and by screwing up at any stage, you can cause eventual failure to your differential unit.
This doesn't just mean that the locker won't lock - this could mean that the bearings will disintegrate, seizing your differential suddenly and unexpectedly (though with PLENTY of aural warning), sending you spinning into the nearest ditch. Ask me how I know!
Also, this locker is designed to unlock above 25 MPH so that you may be safer. If you're on a highway and one wheel starts to spin, you keep going straight. If the locker kicks in and both spin, you can spin into the nearest ditch. Again, ask me how I know.
By modifying your locker, you give up this safety feature in the name of increased performance and dorifto ackshun. You asked for it.
Here's the filthy chunk. Remove the bearing caps after marking their location and orientation for later installation.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2103.jpg
Undo the bolts holding the axle end plates in place.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2104.jpg
Pull the axles out a few inches - it might be necessary to whack on them a bit to break them loose.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2105.jpg
There are two major components to the actuation of this locker. The flyweights (screwdriver, holding them apart) and the governor pawl (to the right).
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2109.jpg
At low speeds (below 25 MPH) the governor pawl sits in this position, held by a torsion spring:
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2110.jpg
And at higher speeds, centrifugal force on the big counterweight overcomes the spring and it sits like this. Remember this for later...
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2111.jpg
Getcher tin snips and cut thru the oil slinger/bolt retainer thingie - no other diff has this so it must be a Volvo thing - I'm sure it has a purpose, but meh.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2112.jpg
Mark the position of the ring gear relative to the differential housing, and remove the gear.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2152.jpg
There are three T27 Torx screws holding the case to the ring side plate. Remove these, and tap the plate off the case. They only go back together one way and it's pretty easy to see, so no marking is necessary.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2151.jpg
Voila! A mess!
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2115.jpg
Matt Dupuis
11-18-2005, 01:06 AM
Here's the mechanism as it sits when it's assembled. There are a few pieces missing, like the caps that capture the clutch ears, but that's not important now. It's plain to see that the flyweight shaft is geared to the ramp, which is driven by the side gear. When one wheel is spinning, either the case will turn faster than this side gear or this side gear will turn faster than the case, depending on which wheel is spinning.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2121.jpg
When the flyweight spread, one of them will hook onto the governor pawl and stop the shaft from turning.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2127.jpg
When the side gear and ramp are in the neutral position, they look like this:
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2119.jpg
But when the flyweight shaft stops the ramp and the side gear rotates a little bit more, the ramp is forced by the matching ramps on the side gear into the clutch pack, which locks the differential.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2120.jpg
Again, at low speed, this is how the governor pawl sits, with the spring pulling the hooks into the flyweight shaft.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2124.jpg
And at higher speeds, the governor pawl counterweight overcomes the spring, pulling the hooks away from the flyweights, which just lets the flyweights spin. This keeps the differential open above 25 MPH.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2125.jpg
Matt Dupuis
11-18-2005, 01:10 AM
Here's the governor pawl. You can see by the general shape that the hooks are oriented to catch the flyweights in either direction. The counterweight is massive enough to overcome just about any spring, so don't bother trying to modify the spring here...
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2137.jpg
Using a thin carbon cut-off blade on my angle grinder, I just whacked the entire thing off. If you're not afraid of experimenting and you want to keep SOME function to the governor, you could hack off some of the weight, reassemble, see where it stops locking, and do it over and over until you got it right.
So after reading that, yours probably looks like mine does. You probably were also amazed at how much gear oil this hardened steel lump "sweat"...
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2138.jpg
After clipping the governor and spring onto the shaft, reinsert the pawl like you see it here:
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2140.jpg
And then, pushing the pawl in while holding the spring out, insert the flyweights.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2142.jpg
Note the orientation of the weight and spring, in this and earlier pictures.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2144.jpg
Reassembly of the ring side plate starts with replacing the shim,
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2146.jpg
reassembling the side gear clutch packs,
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2147.jpg
and inserting them into the side plate. Make sure the ramp and side gear are in "neutral" and that you remembered the clips that capture the clutch ears.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2148.jpg
After you slip the governor and flyweight shafts into the side plate, the assembly slips together. Using a few of the differential bolts to line the cases up, insert the T27 machine screws and work your way around the case a few times, pulling it all together. The diff bolts hold the whole thing together, so don't worry too much about these machine screws - they only hold it during assembly.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2150.jpg
Bolt the ring gear on, using the marks you made earlier to line them up, and you're done. Make sure you have a manual to provide you the proper torque settings and tightening sequence for the ring gear bolts and the bearing end caps in the differential housing. I didn't have the manual, so I used my calibrated impact wrench, in a modified star pattern, working my way slowly and evenly around the case.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c178/mattdupuis/1041%20Locker/100_2153.jpg
Fin.
740ATL
11-18-2005, 06:45 AM
crikey... when you say "pic later" you really mean it! :)
now by just removing and reinstalling as is, as long as you don't much up the shims, you don't have to realign this right?
thanks for the pics Matt... I know what I'll be doing this weekend.
Mike
Matt Dupuis
11-18-2005, 10:34 AM
Now, how does one submit it?
Edit - never mind.
RoadRacer4Life
11-18-2005, 04:51 PM
Matt
Awsome job man that looks great. How well does it work ? I only too some material off of the counter weight but I wish I had taken the whole thing off like you did. Anyways what a great addition to my old thread and I hope it works well for ya..
Sam
coldfusion21
11-18-2005, 04:56 PM
matt, your a god
that is all.
Matt Dupuis
11-18-2005, 05:23 PM
Matt
Awsome job man that looks great. How well does it work ? I only too some material off of the counter weight but I wish I had taken the whole thing off like you did. Anyways what a great addition to my old thread and I hope it works well for ya..
Sam
I'll be bolting it in this weekend, so I'll let ya know. It's a non-turbo automatic so I won't find out the traction benefits until it snows, however...
Spottty
11-19-2005, 01:18 AM
Awsome write up man. I have a line on a stock locker and it looks like i'm going to do some modding before it goes in.
Tha VZA
11-19-2005, 03:30 AM
matt, your a god
that is all.
no shat...sounded way simple'er on the phone...jeebus Matt...
i have a long way to go before i am "confident" in myself to take this project on by myself...
ciao
volvorsport
11-24-2005, 10:11 AM
can one just weld the flywheel weights to keep it shut ?
looks like ill be doing something like that in the future !!!
i need to hear how it works , will you re align the CWP , before its put back in ?
Matt Dupuis
11-24-2005, 12:01 PM
So far it's totally seamless, David, but I haven't been able to actually test it out due to excessive traction/torque ratios. Works in the one gravel parking lot I tried it in, but I was well below 25 mph.
You might be able to weld it up, if you welded a chunk of round bar in between the governor counterweight and the case, but then R&R of the unit suffers and there's always the possibility of welding slag/spatter floating around. With the failure of one welded diff under my belt, I'm trying to keep welding slag/spatter to a minimum!
What's a CWP, and why would it need to be realigned?
volvorsport
11-24-2005, 12:11 PM
crown wheel and pinion , im just thinking out loud - whenever we took a ford diff apart , the side play needed to be adjusted , of course i said that without thinking about it.
Its possible the side to side play in the bearings is done with a shim thats already in there , and the diff is located exactly in the right place when its put back .
Im asking curious questions since ive never needed to take a diff out !!!
are you saying in normal driving you havent made the locker work !!!!lol
TerribleOne
11-24-2005, 12:33 PM
Matt you should be a school teacher! excellent posts.
volvorsport
11-24-2005, 12:38 PM
hmm , so what does the govener pawl sit against , is it the case or does it dangle in free space ?
im thinking a stainless steel band with notch on it that presses the pawl inwards at all times clipped against the case - that way , its completely reversible .
matt, what did this go in? a 700 or 200? if a 200 i'd like to see pics of those extra mods needed as i know where there is a 91 auto tranny 744ti :D
linuxman51
11-24-2005, 01:07 PM
man thats a badass writeup there matt!
hockey930
11-24-2005, 01:13 PM
wow, what a post I may save these pics for the future.
Eamonn
Matt Dupuis
11-24-2005, 01:39 PM
crown wheel and pinion , im just thinking out loud - whenever we took a ford diff apart , the side play needed to be adjusted , of course i said that without thinking about it.
Its possible the side to side play in the bearings is done with a shim thats already in there , and the diff is located exactly in the right place when its put back .
Im asking curious questions since ive never needed to take a diff out !!!
are you saying in normal driving you havent made the locker work !!!!lol
Yeah, I can't remember, but it's either the Ford 9" and Chrysler 8.75" that adjust the ring gear side-side position with threaded collars that get locked down by the bearing caps or some such thing. I've never done one but I've seen a write up on it once or twice.
The side play stays the same as it's a shim captured between the bearing and the differential carrier. The bearing outer races just slide down into the case with the differential, and it's all the same no matter how many times you take it out.
Well, if I'm turning and stomp on the gas at the same time, while I'm in a concrete parking garage, I could probably spin one wheel if I didn't have the locker. I'm not sure if it locks up because it's so smooth... Remember, this is a B230F with an automatic in a 760 wagon, so it doesn't have alot of get-up-and-go.
Matt Dupuis
11-24-2005, 01:44 PM
hmm , so what does the govener pawl sit against , is it the case or does it dangle in free space ?
im thinking a stainless steel band with notch on it that presses the pawl inwards at all times clipped against the case - that way , its completely reversible .
The "hook" end of the governor pawl gets pulled towards the flyweight shaft by the torsion spring. When the counterweight overcomes that spring, the governor rotates around it's shaft, and the inside end of the hook hits that big square thing between the spider gears.
You could probably design some kind of springy band thing that clips the governor weight to the differential case, but I sure wouldn't do it - that weight must develop some pretty good forces at 100+ MPH, and if it flung that springy band thing into the guts of the diff, it sure would make a mess.
I haven't investigated it, but the governor pawl might be available through Eaton, if you're so inclined to replace it.
Matt Dupuis
11-24-2005, 01:46 PM
matt, what did this go in? a 700 or 200? if a 200 i'd like to see pics of those extra mods needed as i know where there is a 91 auto tranny 744ti :D
It went into a 765 (as if you didn't get that from my reply to Dave) and not my 240. Not only would I have to weld on the suspension brackets for the 240's control and torque arms, but the panhard rod is slightly different as well, there is nowhere to bolt the brake line brackets to, the parking brake mechanism is totally different, and so are the tube ends. Way too much work to be worthwhile, especially if you wanted to keep the parking brake.
linuxman51
11-24-2005, 03:54 PM
that locker isnt as violent as the locker that came in the irs cars (well at least the one in my 960), its just kinda "there". in my 960 you can hear it lock and unlock and feel the difference (usually in the rain, gotta put on a show for the natives ;) )
Awesome write up. Diffs are a beautiful thing.
Matt Dupuis
11-27-2005, 02:12 PM
Does anyone have an ABS speedometer convertor they'd like to sell me??? Kinda wasn't aware these were needed, otherwise I woulda pulled it from the donor car... Speedo reads about 7x too high now.
RoadRacer4Life
11-27-2005, 08:40 PM
I pulled the locker out of my old diff and pulled it apart. Matt your pictures helped a good bit when it came to putting it back together. I am going to try to install it into my 91 244 in the next week or so..
Thanks man
Sam
Matt Dupuis
11-28-2005, 11:30 AM
Glad to be of service.
945ti
12-11-2005, 09:50 PM
Hmm, so anyone ever wonder how these things break?
Pics to follow of both breakage and my own G80 modding.
945ti
01-06-2006, 02:35 AM
Here are the pics of the chewed up gear on the flyweight governor and the larger gear that meshes with it on the spider gear/clutch assembly.
http://i.pbase.com/g3/83/464483/2/54464581.Flyweightpic7.jpg
http://i.pbase.com/g3/83/464483/2/54464582.Flyweightpic8.jpg
http://i.pbase.com/o4/83/464483/1/54469823.Chewedspiderfixed.JPG
http://i.pbase.com/o4/83/464483/1/54469867.Chewedflyweightfixed.JPG
Other pics of the mod to the weight can be found in my pbase. http://www.pbase.com/945ti/1041_1031_hybrid_axle_swap&page=all
My weight was a very slightly different shape than Matt's it seems.
740ATL
01-06-2006, 08:11 AM
Thanks for the Pics!
Mike
volvorsport
01-06-2006, 09:17 AM
was that a modified one thats broke ?
945ti
01-06-2006, 09:25 AM
was that a modified one thats broke ?
No, it was stock. The breakage was discovered when I pulled the flyweight governor out of interest after I had sliced the weight off of the pawl thing.
The car has been driven in a lot of snow. I am guessing repeated lash from accel to decel and lock to unlock and vice versa caused its demise. The diff had a good bit of lash play too.
Matt Dupuis
01-06-2006, 09:56 AM
Modified or stock, it won't matter. It'll eventually break if traction is being applied back and forth rapidly and jarringly. The G80 (appropriately sized for the application) is stock in many full size GM pickup trucks, and they hate the thing. If you're rallying or autocrossing, I don't expect the locker to last long. If you're drag racing or use it in the snow, it's probably fine for a while.
Modified just allows you to lock it at higher speeds, which gives you another chance to break it when an unmodified one would just spin one wheel.
Edit - James, can you count the teeth on your tone ring for me?
945ti
01-06-2006, 03:21 PM
There are 48 teeth to the tone ring vs the 12 on the non ABS open diff. The sensor is also a bit different on the ABS 1041 diff cover as you might have noticed. I'll try and dig up a pic of that.
That is interesting about the breakage. I would guess that on pavement on inital lockup, the tire doesn't easily lose and regain traction super rapidly like it would on a rally car etc. This cushons the load on the flyweight governor gear I would guess. The GM guys seem to have problems breaking diffs in the snow from letting off the gas when they spin too. Sometimes I wish I could find the holy grail 740 ZF end loading clutch limited slip (found it mentioned in the docs for mom's 90 744ti) and put some scary clutches in it. Alas, I shall just try to be mindful of the G80 and keep things tight and limited to pavement fun. I'd think it'd be alright in a drag car, in the snow if driven carefully or in a track car maybe.
RoadRacer4Life
02-27-2006, 02:04 AM
Hey i got bored today and pulled a rearend out of my old burned 245 wagon and sliped the chunk from the 91 740 turbo locker into my 88 245 rearend. To my pleasure it seems to fit. I am goning to try to install this locker "g80" into my 91 244gl in the next week. My only consern is will the tone ring from the 91 740 car work in my 91 240??
Thanks again
Sam
945ti
02-27-2006, 02:50 AM
Hey i got bored today and pulled a rearend out of my old burned 245 wagon and sliped the chunk from the 91 740 turbo locker into my 88 245 rearend. To my pleasure it seems to fit. I am goning to try to install this locker "g80" into my 91 244gl in the next week. My only consern is will the tone ring from the 91 740 car work in my 91 240??
Thanks again
Sam
If the tooth count is the same and the sensor is the same on the diff cover it should work fine. Also, if the 240 has ABS you should be fine. I think you will find that the 240 1031 axles bottom out against the G80 carrier though . A cold saw or some means of cleanly shortening the axle shafts ~1/4" or so would probably be needed...
heh, on an audi you cut one grey wire and your locker will lock at 0 mph to 25 mph and above .............. frarrrrr3@$#%@#
kildea
07-13-2007, 01:34 PM
quick question:
anyone have any info concerning different versions of this locker in volvos?
in particular i am interested in info re. the type which has no flyweights out in the open?
just bought one, it's being shipped so it's not in my hands just yet, but i want to know if the modifications would be the same, or if i'll be finding out on my own and posting results :)
thanks.
hockey930
07-14-2007, 01:23 PM
you have to take it apart to cut the flyweights
rallyvovo
03-11-2008, 03:56 AM
great write up. really helped me out. to note, as i noticed also in the above linked gallery, is that there seems to be two (or more) styles/shapes of weights. My 93 locker was the same as in the gallery linked above, but different than the pics in this thread. donno if they weigh any different.
yamahapro
07-19-2009, 02:11 AM
so how do you get the tone ring from an abs car to work in a non abs car?
DaButcher
07-19-2009, 07:34 AM
so how do you get the tone ring from an abs car to work in a non abs car?
I believe you could just cut away the extra metal tabs?
peehound
07-19-2009, 02:48 PM
I believe you could just cut away the extra metal tabs?
Yes, exactly.
hockey930
07-19-2009, 03:08 PM
We used tin snips on mine
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_jVAXDWzoWUA/SmNuItqXlEI/AAAAAAAAAkw/_TrqJK173d4/s720/DSCF9414.JPG
TerribleOne
07-19-2009, 05:05 PM
It's pretty easy to slide it off.. I marked mine so I woudln't goof up and cut the wrong one out by accident..
http://photos-a.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs009.snc1/4451_81311302699_502397699_1731880_2330924_n.jpg
yamahapro
07-21-2009, 02:03 AM
you cant just swap the tone rings? do you also swap the gear that turns the diff? do i need to you use the 740 diff cover?
TerribleOne
07-21-2009, 10:30 AM
Naah.. the tone rings dont swap I'm pretty sure the open diff tone ring is integral to the diff... unless you find a 240 with a 4.10 ratio rear end you'll have to use your old ring gear.. I guess thats what you're talking about or you could be talking about the pinion gear which anytime you change one, you have to change both and keep them as a set.. I also marked the relationship of the ring gear to pinion gear before I removed the diff with a paint marker to make sure when I put the 240 ring gear on the G80 diff and installed it in my car the ring gear would go right back in the same location.
Yes I used the 940 diff cover, but mainly because it's a little more stout being made of cast aluminum vs stamped steel on the stock 240's.. and the pickup was shimmed for that locker and cover combo already..
yamahapro
07-21-2009, 12:09 PM
so the ring and pinion gears from the 740 WILL NOT go in my car?
2manyturbos
07-21-2009, 02:06 PM
so the ring and pinion gears from the 740 WILL NOT go in my car?
The ring and pinion gears from the 740 will go in your 240.
yamahapro
07-27-2009, 06:44 PM
ok i did this. you take the ring gear off, then you take the 3 screws out. seperate it and i think the clutch pack comes out in one piece without removing the c clip. i am not sure but thats how i put it in. then you just pull the weight out along with the other flyweight thing, cut it and intall both pieces again. then either put the clutch pack back in or put it back together first then put it back in. and just bolt it back together. simple
yamahapro
10-23-2009, 07:53 PM
when you install the diff does the original 240 differential plate work or do you HAVE to use the 740 one, because i installed it and my speedometer doesnt work at all.
Also now that its intalled my car squeels really bad from the rear, it sounds like its coming from the right side where you had to cut the half shaft. could i have not cut it enough and the bearing or something is rubbing?
BILLD518
11-09-2009, 12:44 AM
Bumpsy-daisy.
I just picked up a locker of my own and after having a look at it, I came to the same conclusion Sam did. Decided I'd do a write up on it, but I'd better have a look first... found this.
I'll take some pix today and tomorrow & add them to this thread.
I have a G80 in a 97 GMC 4X4.
I popped (broke) one of the bolts on the bearing cap next to the pinion.
Everything looked ok, except for a few dents in the cover where it hit.
I put new bolt in it, and it works fine except for the whine.
I noticed there was a small amount of back and forth slack.
How would I go about adjusting the back-lash?
Thanks,
Billd518
yamahapro
11-11-2009, 05:15 PM
We used tin snips on mine
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_jVAXDWzoWUA/SmNuItqXlEI/AAAAAAAAAkw/_TrqJK173d4/s720/DSCF9414.JPG
did this work for you because this is what mine looks like except smoother and straighter and mine doesnt work well.
Turbeam
11-12-2009, 05:04 AM
It SHOULD work. My 960 axle/ 740 clock combination gives a reading, but goes off the scale at around 30mph, and I plan to trim the tone ring in the same way to correct it.
If you don't get any speed reading at all or a fluctuating needle there could be a pick-up, speedometer, wiring, or other fault that needs to be found as well.
yamahapro
11-12-2009, 11:20 AM
What did you do to the speedo ring?
Turbeam
11-13-2009, 03:37 AM
What did you do to the speedo ring?
Nothing so far (winter job), but just needs 3 out of every 4 tone ring 'ribs' cut out as above to correct.
If you are getting absolutely nothing at the speedo after disturbing/ swapping the axle I'd first check the alignment and air gap between the tone ring and the end of the speedometer pick-up on the rear cover... I would think it likely that the pick up could need moving closer to the tone ring to get a reading... assuming there are no other issues?
yamahapro
11-13-2009, 04:51 AM
Mine reads too fast. Was I supposed to file the cut tabs smooth?
Turbeam
11-14-2009, 07:11 AM
You have removed 75% of the rings ribs and it still reads too fast? :omg:
It is a better looking job if smooth, but if the pick-up is centrally positioned it shouldn't make any difference at all to its function. I don't know whats happening there, it would make more sense if it was reading slow or not at all?
yamahapro
11-14-2009, 03:05 PM
There not smooth but it is cut properly. At freeway speed it shakes around 70 then past that it goes to zero. I'm thinking it's moving on the diff
njbrickwithboost
11-15-2009, 03:41 PM
hmmm...
Turbeam
11-15-2009, 09:36 PM
Still not sure. I'd start be checking the air gap isn't a bit too big first anyway.
dbarton
11-28-2009, 11:48 PM
What oil/lube are you people using for the G80. Does it need limited slip lube or regular?
Dave B.
yamahapro
11-29-2009, 12:31 AM
whats an air gap?
and now my car throws a 311 code- faulty signal from speedometer.
i just hate to pull the whole thing apart and smooth out the rings then it still doesnt work
wagonfetish
11-29-2009, 12:46 AM
it seems the air gap is the gap between the sensor and the "ribs". there might be too much distance there to get a signal?
yamahapro
11-29-2009, 01:42 AM
How could that be off? I used the 740 diff cover
sdturbo
11-29-2009, 02:42 AM
What oil/lube are you people using for the G80. Does it need limited slip lube or regular?
Dave B.
Use straight gear lube. The friction additive is a no no on a G80.
Ruben
11-29-2009, 04:27 AM
Maybe not completely on-topic but how do people who drift, auto-x, race, rally like the G80? (everything but drag racing).
A LSD is the better option I know that but it's also a lot more expensive.
Can a G80 be predictable or does it just kick in when it likes to do so?
745 TurboGreasel
11-29-2009, 05:19 AM
.
Can a G80 be predictable or does it just blow apart when it likes to do so?
fixed
It is perfectly predictable, it engages when wheel differentiation exceeds 100 RPM, and stays locked until not under drive power. Actuation is locked out at speeds over 25 MPH.
Since wheelspin is required for it to engage,a few things can happen when it does:
The other wheel retains traction, nothing breaks, and you continue driving as if nothing had happened.
The other wheel loses traction, nothing breaks, and you go into oversteer.
The other wheel has traction, and the shock load snaps an axleshaft
The other wheel has traction, and the shock load breaks the spider gears
The other wheel has traction, and the shock load rips some teeth off your R&P
The other wheel has traction, and the shock load mangles the friction discs
That said, treat it nicely, and it can hang together a long time, and beats the crap out of an open diff for not getting stuck.
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