Megasquirting a b21ft Step by Step

[Super1800GTR]

I know there's lots of Megasquirting information on this site, but I haven't found anything b21ft (K-jet) specific. This will be a step-by-step guide on how to remove k-jet, & install megasquirt. It won't cover the assemby of ms (Lunixman is taking car of that for me). I'll try & include as many pictures as possible to illustrate the process. I hope this will show those who may be weary about doing a mod like this that it's not THAT hard. Seeing as
how I just started this swap last night, I'll update this thread as I go along & edit where I need to. Hold on... this may take some time.

Step1: PARTS
Sensors:
-Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) [MSD Ignition 2310] http://www.sdpc2000.com/
-Intake Air Temperature (IAT) [MSD Ignition 2320] http://www.sdpc2000.com/
-TechEdge Wide Band 02 sensor (WB02) www.wbo2.com
-02 VW GTI 1.8t front sensor www.1stvwparts.com
-Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) from a Volvo 850

Fuel:
-Injectors-> Either stock b230 turbo injectors or injectors from a Turbo Ford (brown tops)
-Fuel Pressure Regulator (FPR) from a late 80's turbo dodge (4bar) http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1089312&parttype=6124 (1st one listed)
-B230 Fuel Rail
-Resistor pack for the injectors from a b230 turbo
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-Aeroquip Socketless 1/4in Fuel Line & Clamps http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/

Wiring & Connectors:
-My kit from Kenny (Lunix) came w/ a wiring harness :). Depending on where you get your kit you may/may not have to source the harness.
-TPS connector & pigtail. Try to get this when you get the TPS.
-IAT & CTS. If you buy your sensors new they wont come w/ connectors or pigtails (unless you buy the MSD sensors. The connectors are available separatly for the other sensors. Check the MS website (under wiring & sensors) for part #'s & links. If you get your sensors from the junk yard go ahead & get the connector & a good length of wire (pigtail).
-Injectors. I think the connectors from any b230 Volvo will fit just about any injector you plan on using (could be wrong about this). The best source for this is probably the junkyard. Go ahead & grab as much of the FI harness as you can for good measure. **Make sure you get the metal clips that lock them into place**
-Fuel pump relay. 12v bat, switched 12v, fuel pump, ground. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&Ntt=fuel+pump+relay&N=0&part=BGI%2D171035&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch
-Male & female spade connectors
-Universal fuse block (5 fuses) & fuses.
-Spare wire (might be able to get by w/ hacking up your original harness but it's a good idea to have some extra).
-on/off toggle switch

Intake:
-Intake manifold from a b230 engine
-Throttle Body (TB) from a b230
-Cold side IC pipe & rubber elbow from a 740 turbo Volvo.

Gaskets and Seals:
-O-rings for b21ft fuel injectors www.fcpgroton.com
-O-rings for b230 fuel injectors www.fcpgroton.com
-Gasket for b230 TB to manifold www.fcpgroton.com
-Intake manifold gasket www.fcpgroton.com

Misc:
-Labtop for tuning-> Must have windows 98 or newer and a serial port.
-Volt meter
-Zip ties
-Soldering kit
-Shrink wrap, electrical tape
-Heat gun
-Wire crimper
-Basic hand tools
-Teflon tape
-Vac hoses. Save yourself the trouble & go ahead & replace these. You'll also need a little extra that goes to the ms ecu.
-Drill w/ drill bit for IAC

Rob

[kyle242gt]

http://www.sonic.net/~kyle/242/work

Documents my MS install and +T to a B21F

[Felixredwoody]

Nice write up on the list of parts. But correct me if I'm wrong but I'm under the assumption that both of You are MS+S users right? And if this is the case the vital missing parts are distributor/ignition module right? From what I have read LH 2.2 stuff, I'm gathering parts for a B21F+T tight squish(decked to +10) with enlarged combustion chamber 530 head motor and want to make sure I get all the parts in a pile before I do the swap/conversion(building +T motor from original motor from the GT). Tim

[Super1800GTR]

Nice write up on the list of parts. But correct me if I'm wrong but I'm under the assumption that both of You are MS+S users right? And if this is the case the vital missing parts are distributor/ignition module right? Tim

I'm just doing MS for now. I'll convert to 'nS later & do a write up on that conversion. Also this is a work in progress so I'll keep editing the thread as I go along & add more specific information.

Rob

[Super1800GTR]

Step #2: Removal of K-Jet
This is what I did. I'm sure there's an easier way of doing this but... eh? I like to do things systematically. IE: Remove airbox & lines, remove intake manifold, sort out wiring, etc.

-Disconnect battery

-Remove charge pipe from turbo and cold side IC hose.
*It's a good idea to go ahead & remove all hoses & the Intercooler (If your car is turbocharged) & flush the system*

-Undo the 3 bolts that hold the air box. I think they are a 13mm.

-Remove the fuel lines from the back of the air box. Right (17mm), Left (18mm)
http://www.msnusers.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=19

-Unbolt clamp holding k-jet fuel lines @ the front of the valve cover. (10mm)
http://www.msnusers.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=15

-Undo injector retaining bolts. (5mm hex)
*BE CAREFUL WHEN REMOVING (& LATER INSTALLING) THESE BECAUSE OF THE ALUMINUM. IT'S VERY EASY TO STRIP THE THREADS!!!)*
http://www.msnusers.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=16

-Pull up injectors. (requires some force)

-Remove injector from lines. Bottom (12mm) Top (14mm)
http://www.msnusers.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=17

-Unbolt cold start injector line @ manifold. (12mm)

-Remove lines going to... forget the name, but it's below the intake. Right (14mm), Left (12mm)
http://www.msnusers.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=22

- Double check everything is unhooked. I've probably forgotten something.

-Pull airbox & lines out of engine bay.
* You'll have to bend some of the lines a little to get them to clear the intake.*

-Unbolt bracket that held k-jet lines on passenger side of valve cover. (6mm hex)
http://www.msnusers.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=23



Rob

[adrianpike]

-Remove lines going to... forget the name, but it's below the intake. Right (14mm), Left (12mm)

Fuel Distributor?

Also, good writeup so far.

[Super1800GTR]

Step #3: Adapting 850 TPS

-Remove stock TPS using a 3mm hex on the two bolts.
http://groups.msn.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=41

-850 TPS obviously doesn't fit all the way on the shaft:
http://groups.msn.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=42

-So.... you'll have to cut it down:

http://groups.msn.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=48

-This is the 850 TPS sitting down on the newly cut shaft:

http://groups.msn.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=49
-It needs to go down a little farther. As far as I know it should sit flush against the bracket, or atleast far enough to compress the O-ring and make a tight seal. **Please correct me if I'm wrong** Be sure to get a new O-ring for the TPS.

-Make a bracket of some sort with the 850 TPS clocked in the right position:
http://groups.msn.com/MiscVolvo/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=43
I did this using two small pieces of metal cut from some scrap I found laying around. Drilled a 3/16? hole on one end & ??? hole on the other end. I'll use the factory hex bolts on one end but still need to find some nuts & bolts for the other.

-Go ahead & plug the two vac ports on the TB, unless you're going to use an idle control valve.

-Plug the vac port for the cold start injector. A cap (brass, aluminum, etc.) j/b welded would work.

-Plug the cold start injector if you want. I'm personally using the injector itself as a plug. Don't forget to tighten it down if you do this :).


Rob

[The Wizard]

great This Will Help With My Instal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Blackbrick]

Fuel Distributor?

Also, good writeup so far.
control pressure regulator

[84superturbo]

yay!! just after i got my MS too!!! this will be of much help. Can you take a pucture of the 850 TPS after you've made your adapter from the side, or is it still sitting up on the shaft. just waning to know if you modified the throttle shaft or not, or if you put some type of spacer in going up to the TPS. I have more scrap laying around that i know what to do with, so i can pretty much fab up anything that i dont have to weld.

matt.

[The Wizard]

I need an update MAN....
Also a pic of underhood B21FT with MS would make my day....

[Super1800GTR]

Check Kyle's website^^ for pics of a b21ft w/ ms. I haven't been able to work on the car in a while b/c it's @ my other house 45min away. I still haven't been able to fix the white 242 b/c I'm working on the 245... LOL so many cars & none of them work. 245 should be done tomorrow morning, white 242 by sunday & HOPEFULLY I'll be able to make it over to my other house & finnish ripping out the old harness & start putting things back on. All that depends on the weather. We don't have a heated garage & I refuse to work in the cold.

Sorry for the delay.
Rob

[Super1800GTR]

yay!! just after i got my MS too!!! this will be of much help. Can you take a pucture of the 850 TPS after you've made your adapter from the side, or is it still sitting up on the shaft. just waning to know if you modified the throttle shaft or not, or if you put some type of spacer in going up to the TPS. I have more scrap laying around that i know what to do with, so i can pretty much fab up anything that i dont have to weld.

matt.

Thought I took a pic of that... sorry. You actually cut the throttle shaft down a little so the 850 tps sits down on the mount. I'm not sure what you use to seal. I think the stock o-ring will work. I destroyed mine beadblasting the manifold (oops). I'll take a better pic tomorrow.

Rob

[Super1800GTR]

Updage on the TPS mounting w/ better pics. & a little more info. on the parts step.

Rob

[The Wizard]

Anymore updates?? I have MS now and I am waiting. HEHE I also have a 242 Turbo but it already has B230FT intake. Do I need a dizzy out of a newer 240? If so what years?

[84superturbo]

If I am not mistaken, you will need the dizzy out of a '88 to '93 240 volvo(could be wrong might be able to use 86 and 87 not sure). I give fair warning though, they are not easy to remove, and also do not destroy the connector on the side of the distributor, it makes it useless if you do.

matt.

[swedefiend]

I wired mine in ala version 1 on Kenny's pbase account.

http://www4.pbase.com/kdh51/image/28423888

Not the way shown in Kennys original post in this thread. I have had no problems with my setup after about a month. Just make sure you wire it up correctly b/c incorrect installation of the resistor WILL result in a burned up Hall sensor.

I'm not saying Kennys way won't work (because obviously it does) I'm just saying that's not how I have mine hooked up.

http://www.gregables.net/turbobricks/IM001137.jpg

My dizzy is from an 85 240 GL

^^This came from another thread word for word and I'm too lazy to change it. The important stuff is the same.

Later

[The Wizard]

Thanks for the info on the DIZZY. I ahev one already just waiting for the BOX KICKER (UPS) to deliver my map sensor and other components listed above..

[The Wizard]

Updates :uh:

[Super1800GTR]

Sorry.. I wanted to get the car up & runing before I went any farther w/ writing this to make sure I get all the kinks worked out. It's VERY close. Also school's been rough for the last month & I haven't had much time to work on the car. Soon...

Rob

[The Wizard]

You must have it running by now eh.

[Super1800GTR]

Step #4: Removing k-jet harness & wiring:

***Going from memory here... need to check my notes & setup... this will probably be revised a few times***

-Unplug the big connector on the passenger side up by the firewall. Cut the blue wire *PIC* that goes through the terminal block on the firewall. Cut the blue & yellow wire that goes to the drivers side of the starter (make sure it's the blue yellow wire that's connected to this part of the harness!!!!)

-Reroute brown wire that goes to passenger side of starter around the fener. Reroute alt and oil pressure wires around the passenger side fender.

- I'm sure there's more wiring that can be removed. I "kept it simple stupid" b/c I didn't want to cut a wire that I needed.

[Super1800GTR]

Step #5: Mounting sensors

IAT:
-cut a hole in the cold side IC pipe (or intake if you don't have a turbo). **INSERT SIZE HERE**
-j/b weld temp sensor (make sure it's the correct one) & let dry

CLT: (for those w/ gm temp sensors)
-drain coolant (aleast enough so it doesn't pour out all over your engine)
-remove THIS SENSOR **PIC**
-build your adaptor or (if you found the correct one INSERT SIZE HERE ) thread it in w/ teflon tape.
-thread sensor w/ teflon.

[volvo 4 life]

So is that all you got on this?

[thxone]

How did you wire the fuel pump relay?