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760b23et
11-23-2004, 08:34 AM
Hey i was wondering what was involved into cutting done the standard 760 springs. How much should i cut and how? Does anybody have any pics of lowered volvo by cutting springs?

760b23et
11-23-2004, 08:35 AM
oh and can it be done on the car without removing the struts and springs?

grizlyadams
11-23-2004, 08:40 AM
Cutting springs without removing them....er.....no
recently lowered my 945 turbo, heres a link to the article....

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=27667

Hope thats of some help
Griz

blarf
11-24-2004, 06:45 AM
Cutting springs without removing them....er.....no
recently lowered my 945 turbo, heres a link to the article....

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=27667

FWIW I didn't need to take the rear calipers or rotors off to change out the springs or shocks. I didn't use a tie to keep the shock compressed either.

Instead I positioned a floor jack under the shock, and lowered the trailing arm until it was slightly below the shock. Then placed a jack stand under the axle tube (the body was already supported by a jack stand). Rotate the shock piston and it'll drop right out. Similarly you should be able to slide the shock into place without compressing it (just rotate the bottom part so it will slide thru the trailing arm.

Great pictures you got there.

--
alex

Da_Snake
11-24-2004, 07:06 AM
Cutting springs without removing them....er.....no


I always cut the springs with them in place, just cut a little at a time and keep your fingers out of the way when they snap.

Cut allmost thru the spring and then take a pipe or something to bend with and give it a good yank and will break, repet untill you get it as low as you want.

foggyjames
11-24-2004, 02:49 PM
Of course the problem with cutting springs rather than buying stiffer and shorter springs is that you've got more or less the same roll, but less clearance, so you're potentially going to suffer from arch-scrubbing much earlier than you would with stiffening springs. A set of springs ought to cost....erm.....well, sub 100 anyway.

Here's that link you wanted Will...
http://www.reproglas.com/744eng.html

cheers

James

Chigga 744SE
11-24-2004, 04:44 PM
Of course the problem with cutting springs rather than buying stiffer and shorter springs is that you've got more or less the same roll, but less clearance, so you're potentially going to suffer from arch-scrubbing much earlier than you would with stiffening springs. A set of springs ought to cost....erm.....well, sub 100 anyway.

Here's that link you wanted Will...
http://www.reproglas.com/744eng.html

cheers

James


:???:

You have to cut your ass way thru the springs to rub on the fenders, I rub on my front fenders and that's with about 2.5-2.8" lowering.

foggyjames
11-24-2004, 05:36 PM
I was talking in general - I keep forgetting how huge the arches are on a 700. Having said that, reduced body roll is surely a desirable effect, so if the budget is there why not go stiffer too?

cheers

James

Tilstar
11-25-2004, 02:17 AM
Can we cut the springs and install duel swaybars to chop the body roll??? How much can we lower the car if we're intending to use John Lane's duel swaybar set up before you start banging your tie rods?? :???:

I want the duel swaybars for salsa like hip swingin action (all arse no shoulders... ) and the lowered look without losing ride quality??? Is it gonna work?

Any advice from the Vets??

Bernie
11-28-2004, 05:26 PM
Cutting springs without removing them....er.....no
recently lowered my 945 turbo, heres a link to the article....

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=27667

Hope thats of some help
Griz


Couldn't you use spring compressors to clamp the springs down, cut a coil off and then release the spring compressor to let the spring seat itself again?

Just wondering cause I just finished replacing my struts cartridges, balljoints, well errrr just about all of it and now I want to cut a coil or two out and I don't feel like hauling that all down again....

BoxDriver2
11-28-2004, 06:09 PM
Couldn't you use spring compressors to clamp the springs down, cut a coil off and then release the spring compressor to let the spring seat itself again?

Just wondering cause I just finished replacing my struts cartridges, balljoints, well errrr just about all of it and now I want to cut a coil or two out and I don't feel like hauling that all down again....

Ok, let me point something out.

The spring, when its free [i.e. removed from the strut tube] has no force acting on it.

The spring, when installed, has a force acting on it, very large, at that.

The spring, with spring compressors on it, would be compressed probably even *more* than with the body resting on it [proven when the spring is loose on the strut housing for removal etc]. This means a LARGER force..

Now, if you cut the spring, with the spring compressors on it, when installed on the car [which, if i may point out, is pointless and impossible to do, because the area surrounding the strut does not allow for *proper* use for the compressors in there, anyway] is asking for even more trouble, and probably would result in some injury to you or damage to the car because of the spring releasing when you let go of some of the tension in it.

Have you ever seen a spring compressor break and a spring go shooting off -it can kill you.

Plus, it will make removal of the portion you just cut, even more troublesome to get out with the uncut spring pushing down on the cut portion anyway.

So, really, do it right or don't do it at all-this isn't some sort of temporary thing by any means. It takes maybe a few hours to remove and replace the spring, or an entire day fixing what was damaged from doing it in appropriately and possibly injuring yourself as well, so, what is it worth to you?

Just trying to throw my opinion out there...

MikeHardy
11-28-2004, 06:22 PM
FWIW I didn't need to take the rear calipers or rotors off to change out the springs or shocks. a wee bit more reading would of saved the looking like a fool bit of that statment. :-P the calipers and rotors came off because the rotors were being changed.

hence the title

Fitting Lowering Springs, Uprated Shocks and Brakes on 700/900 series

grizlyadams
11-28-2004, 06:30 PM
a wee bit more reading would of saved the looking like a fool bit of that statment. :-P the calipers and rotors came off because the rotors were being changed.

hence the title

Fitting Lowering Springs, Uprated Shocks and Brakes on 700/900 seriesyea, we replaced the disks and the pads all round as they were knackered, my as well whilst we had the rest of the suspention apart... Oh and BTW, you carnt read can you ;-)

Griz

Spottty
11-28-2004, 10:26 PM
Umm, I think cutting the springs is about as low budget as you can get. It doesnt really do anything but for looks. You wont help improve the handling, in fact you could make it worse.

A set of springs is cheap and dont be fooled. Just because you lower your car with tighter springs it wont make the ride unbarable. I lowered my 745 with B&G's and Tociko shocks and its almost a better ride than stock.

pengee
11-29-2004, 02:16 AM
this is funny cause everyone has their own opinion on the matter.
Here's mine:

Sure, cut your springs. If you want the car to be a little lower and don't care about handling then great. If you do care about handing but only a little bit then sure, but don't cut more than 1 - 1.5 coils off. I cut 1.5 then another 1 and then another on my 740. At 1.5 coils missing the car rides about the same w/ sway bars. The lower center of gravity seems to make it corner a little better. At 2+ coils missing the ride starts to suck (bouncy). Very stiff shocks can help, but if you are going to do that, why not get nice springs or coil overs.

Also, go ahead and cut it with out taken them off. I have don't it on a lot of cars. Just jack it up to take the weight off. The spring will still have some tension to it and will pop with you cut through. Watch your fingers!

This is w/ 3.5 coils missing :-P

http://home.comcast.net/~gn242volvo/pengee/pics/740/slides/slamo.JPG

BoxDriver2
11-29-2004, 03:22 AM
this is funny cause everyone has their own opinion on the matter.
Here's mine:

Sure, cut your springs. If you want the car to be a little lower and don't care about handling then great. If you do care about handing but only a little bit then sure, but don't cut more than 1 - 1.5 coils off. I cut 1.5 then another 1 and then another on my 740. At 1.5 coils missing the car rides about the same w/ sway bars. The lower center of gravity seems to make it corner a little better. At 2+ coils missing the ride starts to suck (bouncy). Very stiff shocks can help, but if you are going to do that, why not get nice springs or coil overs.

Also, go ahead and cut it with out taken them off. I have don't it on a lot of cars. Just jack it up to take the weight off. The spring will still have some tension to it and will pop with you cut through. Watch your fingers!

This is w/ 3.5 coils missing :-P

http://home.comcast.net/~gn242volvo/pengee/pics/740/slides/slamo.JPG

Wow, thats low, no wonder the kit [which looks vaguely familiar, btw..] had all those marks on the bottom from chips :-P

That ride had to suck!

Unregistered
12-01-2004, 05:01 AM
Hi,

New surfer here, ex-120, 140 Volvo owner. Nice forum you guys are running.
A bit of a clarification on the spring cutting. Cutting the springs will make them stiffer, so roll would be reduced. Cutting one coil off a 10 coil spring will increase the stiffness ~ 10% (talking about normal, non-progressive springs here...)

regards,

nikos

Dan
12-01-2004, 05:37 AM
Cutting springs does indeed make them stiffer, won't be a big diff, but it is a consideration. I also strongly encourage anyone doing this to do it off the car. there is alot of force in compressed springs. Be sure to cut slowly to minimize heat build-up in the metal. My 760 is lowered about 2 inches with aftermarket springs. Be sure and use appropriate struts and shocks especially if you lower more than an inch (or 25mm)

foggyjames
12-02-2004, 09:34 AM
Well of course, you're removing 10% of the spring, so 10% of the springyness will go! What I meant is that that's usually not enough to overcome the loss in ride height, so you'll proportionally suffer from body-roll and scrubbing worse than before. Typical '40mm drop' (no idea what what is in %!) springs are 30-40% stiffer. That's a fair bit more than the proportion of whatever you cut off, certainly.

Basically, my point is that I'd only cut springs rather than using lower, stiffer ones if I couldn't afford the lower, stiffer ones. I'd also put a vote towards the 'do it off the car' camp.

cheers

James

Eakin
02-01-2005, 07:46 PM
For you guys cutting coils, are you cutting an even number of coils on the back? I want about a 2" drop (2 coils??). Just wondering how much you guys took off the rears to level the car out.

*edit* sorry, should've added the specs.....I have a 88 740 wagon. No IRS here.

yorkbrick
02-01-2005, 08:08 PM
1 coil cut on mine.

budweiser_man
02-01-2005, 08:30 PM
what year is it? do you have IRS? Get some 740 springs and shocks because 760 have nivomats. If you have a car with IRS then you need a special shock adaption and ipd has them.

tjts1
02-01-2005, 09:19 PM
If I wanted to lower the rear end of a wagon (live axle) fitted with Nivomats, can I just leave the existing soft springs and just install regular shocks? The cars i've seen with failed nivos are about 2 inches lower in the back but I don't know about spring rates. My 960 with nivos rides pretty rough even though the nivos haven't failed yet.

Cutting springs without removing them....er.....no
recently lowered my 945 turbo, heres a link to the article....

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=27667

Hope thats of some help
Griz
Nice write up.

foggyjames
02-01-2005, 09:46 PM
No, the springs are too soft for normal shocks.

cheers

James