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ovlov760
02-26-2005, 05:31 AM
My understanding is that there has been some talk that the staged mods list could use some updating? I decided to take a stab at it. What am I missing so far? suggestions?
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<td width="50%" height="514">Stage 0</td>
<td width="50%" height="514">Before you attempt to bump the power on your
b230 there are some things you need to check.<ul>
<li>Cooling system:&nbsp; It's not a horrible idea to replace all your
radiator hoses.&nbsp; If that's not financially possible at least check
them all over and replace any that look suspect.&nbsp; How old is your
radiator?&nbsp; If it is the original aluminum Volvo one with plastic side
tanks you might want to consider upgrading to a Nissens 2 row aluminum or
3 row copper.&nbsp; Consider swapping in a 82<font face="Times New Roman">°</font>C
thermostat.</li>
<li>Do a compression test.&nbsp; This is especially important if you have
a high mileage motor.</li>
<li>Replace your o2 sensor if it is old.&nbsp; You can test it with a DMM.&nbsp;
On a warm engine it should cycle between .1 and 1 volts</li>
<li>Consider replacing your intercooler hoses.&nbsp; At least check them
for soft spots or tears.</li>
<li>Replace your fuel filter.&nbsp;&nbsp; More boost will require more
fuel and you don't want a clogged filter keeping that fuel from your
motor.</li>
<li>Buy a boost gauge and find out how much boost your currently running.&nbsp;
Stock boost should be between 6-8 PSI.&nbsp; if you're running more than
that you may want to check your waste gate rod.</li>
<li>Plan on running GOOD oil and a GOOD oil filter from here on out.</li>
</ul>
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<td width="50%" height="19">Stage 1</td>
<td width="50%" height="19">I suspect that views may differ on Stage 1.&nbsp;
You could start with just a MBC or you could go the more expensive route at
purchase a 3&quot; DP.&nbsp; Doing both is really the best idea in my own opinion
as they will compliment each other.&nbsp; You should at least do a cat-back
exhaust system.<p>You can feel free to gut your stock air-box of the heater
flapper and the foam or alternatively delete the entire thing and run a cone
filter.</p>
<p>Don't plan on running above 12psi of boost unless you have upgraded your
injectors.</p>
<ul>
<li>MBC</li>
<li>3&quot; DP (optional)</li>
<li>2.5&quot; or 3&quot; cat-back exhaust</li>
<li>Boost Gauge!</li>
<li>A/F gauge </li>
<li>Gut your air-box or cone filter</li>
</ul>
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<td width="50%" height="19">Stage 2</td>
<td width="50%" height="19">For Stage 2 you should definitely purchase a 3&quot;
DP and a 3&quot; hi-flow cat.&nbsp; Consider a full 3&quot; exhaust system.&nbsp;
<p>You should also consider upgrading from the stock camshaft.&nbsp; It's
likely you have either a T or M cam which both suffer from dismal top end
power.&nbsp; There are several Volvo cams you consider swapping in: K, A, or
B.&nbsp; The K is the most radical and you will suffer a penalty in low end
grunt.&nbsp; You could also consider a IPD turbo Cam or a Enem V15.&nbsp; If
you plan on running a K cam you may want to purchase a adjustable cam gear.</p>
<p>If you plan to run more than 12psi you will also want to upgrade those
stock injectors.&nbsp; Your best bet for fuel are brown top (E5ZE) injectors
from a Turbo charged Ford thunderbird model.&nbsp; These injectors should
supply you with enough fuel to safely run 15psi or more.&nbsp; Too keep from
running too rich with browntop injectors you can swap in the AMM from a B280
which has a larger housing and allows the metering of more air, build your
own larger housing or use resistor in line with the AMM signal wire to fool
the ECU.</p>
<ul>
<li>3&quot; DP</li>
<li>3&quot; hi-flow cat</li>
<li>3&quot; or 2.5&quot; from cat back</li>
<li>Cam upgrade</li>
<li>Fuel injector upgrade</li>
</ul>
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<td width="50%" height="19">Stage 3</td>
<td width="50%" height="19">In Stage 3 you should consider upgrading your
turbocharger and swapping to a 90+ exhaust manifold.&nbsp; If you're
planning on running a Garrett turbo you'll need to hog out the opening on
the 90+ manifold to match the larger opening found on Garrett turbochargers.&nbsp;
Upgrades will vary depending on whether you have&nbsp; a Garrett or
Mitsubishi turbo.&nbsp; What housing and wheels are swappable to your turbo
should be available on Tbricks or by a quick search of Yahoo.<p>Plan on
purchasing some form of EMS.&nbsp; Mega Squirt &amp; Spark is currently the most
popular form of EMS among Volvo tuners.</p>
<p>Because&nbsp; you have EMS you will also want a way to monitor your a/f
ratio.&nbsp; At this point a narrow band o2 isn't going to cut.&nbsp; You
will need a wbo2 sensor to accurately measure your a/f ratio and keep your
engine from running lean.</p>
<p>Some form of knock sensing should also be considered.&nbsp;&nbsp; You can
purchase a Knock sense unit to monitor any knock recorded by the stock knock
sensor.&nbsp; Be warned the stock sensor is relatively useless over 5K RPM's
because there is so much noise.</p>
<p>Dump the stock intercooler.&nbsp; A NPR intercooler is a drop in
replacement for the Volvo unit.&nbsp; You could also go with a custom unit
or cut down a Power stroke intercooler.</p>
<ul>
<li>Upgraded turbocharger</li>
<li>90+ manifold</li>
<li>Mega Squirt&amp;Spark or other EMS</li>
<li>WBo2</li>
<li>Knock sense</li>
<li>Upgraded Intercooler</li>
</ul>
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<td width="50%" height="19">&nbsp;<p>&nbsp;</td>
<td width="50%" height="19">&nbsp;</td>
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volvogeek
02-26-2005, 05:46 AM
Leak-down test at Stage 0? Vacuum hoses at Stage 0? Upgraded plug wires/coil/ignition amplifier somewhere in there? Replace in-tank pump with Walbro 255lph @ Stage 1-2?

swedefiend
02-26-2005, 04:15 PM
Knocksense is BEFORE stage 1.

Especially on k-jet 240s that don't have any knock sensing capablities.