Hank Scorpio
10-11-2004, 12:16 AM
Eric and I got talking, I figured I'd just copy the entire conversation.
dougvolvodude: seperate out wipers, headlights, park/turn signals
dougvolvodude: the wiper if your willing to only have medium and fast
dougvolvodude: you can remove about 2 lbs of wiring and relays
dougvolvodude: you only need to keep two wires from the switch and the power source
dougvolvodude: the radio is self explanitory
dougvolvodude: the HVAC, all you have to do is power the big yellow wire (iirc) coming off the back of the switch
dougvolvodude: the rest of the wires coming off the switch dives into the heater box, you wont be able to get to it
dougvolvodude: now, you can cut a TON of wiring out IF you delete the stupid bulb out indicator
dougvolvodude: if your like me: isolate the headlight relay down to JUST headlights (it also does park lamps)
dougvolvodude: you have 12v in (headlight switch), 12v Constant (this turns on the high beam. With the lights off it just flashes, with lights on, it clicks over hte relay), 12v back to the car for a high beam indicator, then low and high beam wires
dougvolvodude: you can combine the 2 seperate lows and highs into just a pair of wires
dougvolvodude: the last wire for the headlight relay is a wire to the turn stalk, this GROUNDS the relay to kick on the highbeam
dougvolvodude: the park lamps you can run directly from the headlight switch. Remove ALL the wiring from the harness. If you dont, the bulb fauilure circuit will screw you. White is Park, Green/Blue are turn indicators. The rear colors are the same
dougvolvodude: combine white into one wire, green/blue seperate. The 4 wire bonded "trailer" wire works great for this. Think heavy speaker wire (but with 4 wires instead of 2)
dougvolvodude: (hell the trailer wire is I believe almost exactly teh same colors)
dougvolvodude: if you look down at the bottom left corner of the DS foot well
dougvolvodude: theres a few connectors coming up though the floor. Thats the connector for the rear of the car. Inside of this will be: Turn signals (left/right, same colors as front iirc), tail lights (Brown wires X3, also does liscence plate lights), Reverse light (Black iirc), Brake lights (I want to say red)
dougvolvodude: easiest thing to do. Rig up a 12v test lead (from battery), just power up each wire and see what it turns on. There will be a couple wires that do the same thing (think tail lamps) and one for some reason turns on a tail lamp AND a turn signal (no idea why, might just be my car)
dougvolvodude: There will also be fuel pump (if your fuel lines are unhooked, when you power this up, you'll know it ;-)) and fuel level
dougvolvodude: fuel level is resistance based. Giving it 12v may screw it up (dont think so though).
dougvolvodude: you can also see the connector @ the tank in the trunk, this might be the easiest way to see those. IF you use a custom gauge, Autometers "Universal" application is the same resistance ratings the volvo sender (ie works perfectly).
dougvolvodude: now the fun stuff, DASH and Ignition switch
Preventor 2: (fyi, i'm writing this all down in my notepad, so don't think your breath is wasted :-) )
dougvolvodude: (oh I know :-D I think Im going to copy this as a post)
dougvolvodude: the dash is involved. It varies for your application
dougvolvodude: if your going to stick with the oem (crap) you'll have to figure out the pinouts
dougvolvodude: if you use all custom gauges its more expenisve and a bit more wiring, but I think it works better. Tip to the wise, use quick connectors on the gauge cluster if you do this
dougvolvodude: (not just the individual, but the 6 prong ones)
Preventor 2: btw, think i sunk the ball on my fuel elvel sender anyway, so i may just eliminate it and carry a 5 gallon tank in the trunk lol
dougvolvodude: hahaah (I have 2 balls floating around the trunk. A junkyard trip fixes that)
dougvolvodude: (that sounded strangely homosexual lol)
dougvolvodude: the ignition switch is goofy
dougvolvodude: from memory, the wire that would be one spot past "start" is 12v constant
dougvolvodude: then working back towards off it follows the switch, I would have to look at it again though
dougvolvodude: but from memory: Red 12v C, yellow 12v Run (to fuse block), yellow/blue 12v ACC (to fuse block), Blue to starter solonoid, white red either other side of starter or something else
dougvolvodude: can't remeber exactly, but if you use a DMM you should be able to figure it out pretty quick
dougvolvodude: if you have power windows, I'm not sure exactly how I did it
dougvolvodude: but theres wires that run from left to right (to each door obviously)
dougvolvodude: follow them, there should be a couple off shoots to a relay. You can delete the relay (if your using your own fuse block) and power both wires directly. This *shouldn't* work, but for the last 2 years for me it has
dougvolvodude: lol
dougvolvodude: I think thats about it.... the power mirrors are your guess (if you have them)
dougvolvodude: the parking brake is 12v to a light, the ground to the parking brake light
Preventor 2: sweet, manual mirrors and windows
dougvolvodude: parking brake switch*
dougvolvodude: lets see, if your using MS
dougvolvodude: make sure you use a "coil" output to power it and the fuel pumps
dougvolvodude: or something that stays on while cranking
dougvolvodude: cause that could drive you insane otherwise
Things to add:
The headlight switch has 12v Constant in (red), 12v out yellow (headlight relay) 12v out red/white (park/gauge cluster)
Get ALOT of zipties. The small thin ones. I basicly seperate out all the subsystems and zip tie the related wires together. After I've run them, and everything else is in place I tie everything up. Dont be afraid to use to many ties, I have them every 6".
Soder/heatshrink everything you can. You WILL need crimp connectors but use them only when needed.
Get good rubber lined "hose/cable" clamps.
A wire stripper (not the kind you have to "pull" the automated kind) will be a godsend. My hands are RAW from stripping wires.
I think thats about it :D Have fun folks!
Doug
(btw, MS= Megasquirt)
dougvolvodude: seperate out wipers, headlights, park/turn signals
dougvolvodude: the wiper if your willing to only have medium and fast
dougvolvodude: you can remove about 2 lbs of wiring and relays
dougvolvodude: you only need to keep two wires from the switch and the power source
dougvolvodude: the radio is self explanitory
dougvolvodude: the HVAC, all you have to do is power the big yellow wire (iirc) coming off the back of the switch
dougvolvodude: the rest of the wires coming off the switch dives into the heater box, you wont be able to get to it
dougvolvodude: now, you can cut a TON of wiring out IF you delete the stupid bulb out indicator
dougvolvodude: if your like me: isolate the headlight relay down to JUST headlights (it also does park lamps)
dougvolvodude: you have 12v in (headlight switch), 12v Constant (this turns on the high beam. With the lights off it just flashes, with lights on, it clicks over hte relay), 12v back to the car for a high beam indicator, then low and high beam wires
dougvolvodude: you can combine the 2 seperate lows and highs into just a pair of wires
dougvolvodude: the last wire for the headlight relay is a wire to the turn stalk, this GROUNDS the relay to kick on the highbeam
dougvolvodude: the park lamps you can run directly from the headlight switch. Remove ALL the wiring from the harness. If you dont, the bulb fauilure circuit will screw you. White is Park, Green/Blue are turn indicators. The rear colors are the same
dougvolvodude: combine white into one wire, green/blue seperate. The 4 wire bonded "trailer" wire works great for this. Think heavy speaker wire (but with 4 wires instead of 2)
dougvolvodude: (hell the trailer wire is I believe almost exactly teh same colors)
dougvolvodude: if you look down at the bottom left corner of the DS foot well
dougvolvodude: theres a few connectors coming up though the floor. Thats the connector for the rear of the car. Inside of this will be: Turn signals (left/right, same colors as front iirc), tail lights (Brown wires X3, also does liscence plate lights), Reverse light (Black iirc), Brake lights (I want to say red)
dougvolvodude: easiest thing to do. Rig up a 12v test lead (from battery), just power up each wire and see what it turns on. There will be a couple wires that do the same thing (think tail lamps) and one for some reason turns on a tail lamp AND a turn signal (no idea why, might just be my car)
dougvolvodude: There will also be fuel pump (if your fuel lines are unhooked, when you power this up, you'll know it ;-)) and fuel level
dougvolvodude: fuel level is resistance based. Giving it 12v may screw it up (dont think so though).
dougvolvodude: you can also see the connector @ the tank in the trunk, this might be the easiest way to see those. IF you use a custom gauge, Autometers "Universal" application is the same resistance ratings the volvo sender (ie works perfectly).
dougvolvodude: now the fun stuff, DASH and Ignition switch
Preventor 2: (fyi, i'm writing this all down in my notepad, so don't think your breath is wasted :-) )
dougvolvodude: (oh I know :-D I think Im going to copy this as a post)
dougvolvodude: the dash is involved. It varies for your application
dougvolvodude: if your going to stick with the oem (crap) you'll have to figure out the pinouts
dougvolvodude: if you use all custom gauges its more expenisve and a bit more wiring, but I think it works better. Tip to the wise, use quick connectors on the gauge cluster if you do this
dougvolvodude: (not just the individual, but the 6 prong ones)
Preventor 2: btw, think i sunk the ball on my fuel elvel sender anyway, so i may just eliminate it and carry a 5 gallon tank in the trunk lol
dougvolvodude: hahaah (I have 2 balls floating around the trunk. A junkyard trip fixes that)
dougvolvodude: (that sounded strangely homosexual lol)
dougvolvodude: the ignition switch is goofy
dougvolvodude: from memory, the wire that would be one spot past "start" is 12v constant
dougvolvodude: then working back towards off it follows the switch, I would have to look at it again though
dougvolvodude: but from memory: Red 12v C, yellow 12v Run (to fuse block), yellow/blue 12v ACC (to fuse block), Blue to starter solonoid, white red either other side of starter or something else
dougvolvodude: can't remeber exactly, but if you use a DMM you should be able to figure it out pretty quick
dougvolvodude: if you have power windows, I'm not sure exactly how I did it
dougvolvodude: but theres wires that run from left to right (to each door obviously)
dougvolvodude: follow them, there should be a couple off shoots to a relay. You can delete the relay (if your using your own fuse block) and power both wires directly. This *shouldn't* work, but for the last 2 years for me it has
dougvolvodude: lol
dougvolvodude: I think thats about it.... the power mirrors are your guess (if you have them)
dougvolvodude: the parking brake is 12v to a light, the ground to the parking brake light
Preventor 2: sweet, manual mirrors and windows
dougvolvodude: parking brake switch*
dougvolvodude: lets see, if your using MS
dougvolvodude: make sure you use a "coil" output to power it and the fuel pumps
dougvolvodude: or something that stays on while cranking
dougvolvodude: cause that could drive you insane otherwise
Things to add:
The headlight switch has 12v Constant in (red), 12v out yellow (headlight relay) 12v out red/white (park/gauge cluster)
Get ALOT of zipties. The small thin ones. I basicly seperate out all the subsystems and zip tie the related wires together. After I've run them, and everything else is in place I tie everything up. Dont be afraid to use to many ties, I have them every 6".
Soder/heatshrink everything you can. You WILL need crimp connectors but use them only when needed.
Get good rubber lined "hose/cable" clamps.
A wire stripper (not the kind you have to "pull" the automated kind) will be a godsend. My hands are RAW from stripping wires.
I think thats about it :D Have fun folks!
Doug
(btw, MS= Megasquirt)