Make your 960 ridiculous: Put some paddle shifters on it!

[the poi]

Why?

960's are really slow, thats why. I'm slapping a turbo on mine and Megasquirting it. This means Motronic is out, along with its coded load signal and various torque limiting response commands. The stock transmission controller being as nervous as it is, won't enjoy working without the motronic box, and I didn't really feel like spending a lot of time analyzing the signals simply to replicate stock performance.

So, the obvious solutions is hijackign the electronic controls that cause the problems in the first place, and shift it manually. Naturally, flappy paddles will be the ideal control mechanism.

Also, they look rockin'.

Why not a manual?
Two major reasons: I live in LA, and I like brake boosting. Most people will never understand the concept of LA traffic without actually living here. The idea of pushing in and out on a clutch pedal for literally an hour without ever touching the stick is an experience I'd rather avoid. And as far as brake boosting goes: this car is going to see a lot more drag-strip time than road racing time, and being able to leave the line with a few pounds of boost is something I like.

The other problem is the cost. I don't want to spend a grand or so to get an M90 over here and install it, and get something I wasn't really looking for in the first place.

And hey, how many people have paddle-shifted a 960, eh?




What needs to be done...


Cooling
If I take over the TCM's controls, the lockup clutch will no longer be constantly popping on and off to control heat production of the relatively high stall TC (2700 rpm). Also, when decellerating or bogging the motor in heavy traffic, it's going to heat up, and I'd like capacity to cool it down and a way to keep an eye on it.

Lets start with the gauge, and AutoMeter Cobalt trans temp. It's purdy! (and won't be alone for long). Here's a horrible looking picture in its equally horrible looking temporary mount (sharp-eyed readers will note that that is the box it came in :-D )

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45923146.jpg


Fantastic, now where do we put the probe? The stock location would be the best, right on the exit to the cooler, the hottest point. Should be easy too. Here's how to install it:

Get a 14mm bolt, and chop it down so its short. Drill a hole in its middle and tap for the 1/8NPT thread that's on the autometer sensor. Screw the sensor in real good, and yoink the o-ring off the stock sensor.

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45145481.jpg


Now screw onto the fancy adapter Volvo uses that the stock sensor T's into:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45145482.jpg


Here it's installed with the stock sensor hanging forlorn next to it, cleary upset at its removal:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45145488.jpg


Now that that's taken care of, lets put in the biggest B&M trans cooler Jeg's sells. Here's a nice spot for it:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260825.jpg


Route the rubber lines that come with the kit through the hole conveniently left from aw71 days:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260826.jpg


And connect them to some shiny AN fittings. There's two here, a 6AN to hose barb fitting, connected to a 6an to 3/8" tube fitting. These use compression fittings, so it's a matter of cutting the tube cleanly and clamping the fitting on.

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260828.jpg


Speaking of that tubing... Go down to NAPA, spend 15$ on two 3/8" 5ft lengths, and get to work with your bare hands and a cheap tubing bender. Here's how I fit mine. Re-using stock lines won't be the best for turbo projects, as stock, they come flying up from under the car and go straight through the prime turbo real estate before dropping to the radiator. Pretty dumb really.

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260829.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260830.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260831.jpg


And finally, the trans. I re-used the metric flare fittings, just slipped them over the cut end of the lines (make sure to do this before you start bending :-P ) and they seat against the flares that come on the lines. With the pre-flared lines and the compression type AN fittings on the other end, you don't have to hand-flare a thing!

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45260832.jpg




The electronics!
This is where the fun happens! First, gotta figure out how you want it to behave. I settled on slapping the paddles from 1st to 4th and another "upshift" will engage the lockup clutch in thr torque converter for cruising. The line pressure solenoid will be left disconnected, meaning line pressure will be maxed. This will probably mean harsher reverse and drive engagement, but it shouldn't hurt anything and it will save me a hell of a lot of development.

I was starting from scratch, so I needed to start with some manuals. Thanks to tjts1 (who I generally refer to as "tits" cause really thats what it looks like) I got this helpful info straight from Volvo: http://caunter.ca/volvo960/ce14807.pdf . So the control algortithm is pretty simple:

With the PNP switch not in a "Drive" mode, set to 1st gear. In a drive mode (D,3,L), turn on the paddles. Set the shift solenoids as needed for each gear. Pretty simple algorithm.

But how to get that to happen? I looked into using basic components and IC's (counters and the like) but it was pretty much over my head, and I realized that this is the perfect project for a microcontroller. So thats what I got, in the form of a BASIC Stamp from www.parallax.com . I've heard of stamps before, never used one before though. The code is really easy to use though, and within a couple hours of downloading the compiler, I had the controller code roughed out.

Here's what I eventually came up with:


' {$STAMP BS1}
' {$PBASIC 1.1}

'The Poi's (Chris Wiita's) AW30-40 paddle shifter code
'v1.1

'I/Os:
' 0 is Upshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function
' 1 is Downshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function

' 2 is Solenoid 1 - engages when 1
' 3 is Solenoid 2 - engages when 1
' 4 is Lockup Solenoid - engages when 1

' 5 is Ground for "drive" funcitons of PNP switch. When grounded, flappy
' paddles work. Whenever it loses ground, switches back to 1st

'Shift Table:
' Gear Sol1 Sol2 TCC
' 1 1 0 0
' 2 1 1 0
' 3 0 1 0
' 4 0 0 0
' 4+TCC 0 0 1

' "1st Gear" for P N and R.


SYMBOL Gear = B0 'Current gear

SYMBOL UpBtnWrk = B2
SYMBOL DwnBtnWrk = B3
SYMBOL DriveBtnWrk= B4

UpBtnWrk = 0
DwnBtnWrk = 0
DriveBtnWrk = 0

'Start in first gear
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Start loop by checking that PNP is in drive mode, if its grounded, start loop,
'otherwise, set gear to 1, keep checking till drive
ChkDriveBtn:
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
PAUSE 100
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Clear button work so it keeps checking if its down, chk upbtn
Go:
DriveBtnWrk = 0
GOTO ChkUpBtn

'Check up button, if grounded, upshift, else, check down button
ChkUpBtn:
BUTTON 0,0,255,0,UpBtnWrk,1,UpShift
GOTO ChkDwnBtn

UpShift:
Gear = Gear + 1
GOTO SetGear

'Check down button, if grounded, downshift, else, check drive button
ChkDwnBtn:
BUTTON 1,0,255,0,DwnBtnWrk,1,DownShift
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

DownShift:
Gear = Gear - 1
GOTO SetGear


SetGear:
BRANCH Gear, (SetGear0,SetGear1,SetGear2,SetGear3,SetGear4,SetG ear5,SetGear6)

SetGear0:
Gear = 1
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear1:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear2:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear3:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear4:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear5:
HIGH 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear6:
Gear = 5
GOTO ChkDriveBtn


And a short vid showing how the solenoids work with each shift: < Dead! >


Now, the outputs are controlled by logic level outputs, so I need to step up the power with some transistor switches. The tricky thing is that i need to send 12v to the solenoid, which requires a PNP/NPN circuit. Got some help from usegroups, and figured out the output circuit I needed to use for each of the solenoids.

edit:// This is the previous circuit. I ended up switching the circuit to something a lot simpler. Just use high-side switch ICs, and just wire the output to the HSS input, and have at it. I used Infineon BTS409L1IN

1K
___
.-|___|-o------o +12V
| |
| |< E NTE11
o----B|
| |\C
|/C |
IN oB| NTE12 |
| >E o------o Solenoid
| |
| -
.-. ^ 1N4001
| | |
150 | | |
'-' |
| |
'-------o
|
===
GND


The next challenge was managing to fit all the components onto the pretty limited proto-space on the Stamp project board... but I did get it, and put the whole thing in an attractive case.

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45923150.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45923151.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/45923153.jpg




The frickin paddles!

So now we need something to slap when we want the gear to change. I decided to mount the assembly fixed to the steering column (not the wheel)-- seems more comfortable to me, as I always know where the paddles are. Unfortunately, there is no room really in the plastic case around the column to fit much of any mechanism, so I had to figure out something else. After a failed attempt at moutning something on the bottom, and another failed attempt on the top when using simply the wrong hardware... I settled on this trippy in-line skate bearing voodoo:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46132616.jpg

Some description: The arms come out slots through the side, and are bolted to the bottom of the bearing. The actuator arms are on top (obviously). The nut is a ny-lock, and I slotted the bolt so i get hold it with a screwdriver while tighetening the nut. This lets me adjust the angle between the actuator arm and the paddle arm with the column completely installed.

I put the pivots out as far as possible and the buttons all the way in. This minimizes mechanical advantage, which reduces the throw of the paddle and makes it harder to pull (resulting in a snappy, quick, and positive pull).

The switches are NO microswitches that give a good positive click when actuated. The result of all of this makes for a very smooth actuation, with essentially no drag-related resistance.


Now we get to posistion the arms, which was a right bitch really. There's very little wiggle room with these things. You have to make sure both stalks still work, and the wheel doesn't contact anything during turns. After some time with cardboard models and a lot of swearing, I got this:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46132618.jpg


And now to make it all artistic and crap!


Here's what I came up with:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46131134.jpg

Rockin'.

The paddles came from Home Depot... sorta. Started as 3in by 3ft 1/8" aluminum. After some more cardboard models, I cut the rough shapes out with my angle grinder, filed down the edges, and got to work. I ground the edges round with a Dremel with a sanding roll, and finished them with a wetsanding from 100 to 400 to 600 grit. They look great, and aren't shiny so they won't blind you if they catch the sun right :-P .


They're mounted with 10/32 SS cap screws, cut and smoothed flush with the mounting point.

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46131133.jpg


Those mounts were also kinda annoying. Had to weld em on with a MIG welder, and they're only about 3/4" :-D . Once I got the welds down, I ground them smooth. Then the whole thing got sanded and painted with engine enamel. The holes are drilled and tapped to recieve the moutning bolts.


And that's that. Still need to figure out something to cover the mechanism. I have a good plastic case, but I think I'm going to want to incorporate some nice leather on it somehow...


Some finished pics:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46131137.jpg

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46131132.jpg



Well then... how's it work?!


It's ****ing fantastic.


I never knew you could have so much fun with a mere 200hp and 3700lbs of bulk :-D It's just like a manual as far as putting it in the right gear, so it's pretty damn awesome. The shifts are as fast (as slow...) as full throttle shifts on the stock TCM, so theres a about a half second delay. I could "fix" this by shimming up the accumulators a bit... but I'm afraid of getting too greedy and breaking something. It's awesome as it stands though.

Highway driving is great: no traffic means leaving it in 4th+L, light traffic means a but of shifting between lockup and no lockup, but it's not a problem at all seeing as its just a tap of the paddle. Heavy traffic is way better than witht he auto, which seemed to always pick bad gears, and always making it lug around and making throttle response nonexistant before slamming it into third and shooting you foward. I can keep it in 3 and crawl along without having the annoying lug. Stop and go traffic is just as easy. Leave it in 1st, with the occasional slap into 2nd.

City driving is hilarious, and I'll probably end up with several tickets because of it. I'm probably burning through oil now seeing as I love keeping the big sewing machine at atleast 3 grand :-D .




To conclude: **** ya.



http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/46081234.jpg




edit:// ya ya, I'll get video sometime :) My vid-capable camera is 100 miles away!

[tjts1]

Thank you thank you thank you thank you. Looks like I have a long weekend ahead.

[Marvelous3]

That's the most amazing thing I've ever seen! This topic deserves a sticky like no other!

Are you considering maybe selling portions or all of this kit to the rest of us?

[tjts1]

You realize this would also work on an 850 turbo or R? The trasmission control is exactly the same. I like the way you set up the relay. Thats the part I was missing. Also the torque converter lock up as 5th gear is very elegant. Sure beats my separate switch idea. I think I'll skip on the paddles and just use sterring wheel mounted buttons. And I still want to be able to use it as an auto trasmission. damn. Well I guess its time to bust out the old 8051 again.
Thanks again for the write up. Also yes it is TITS. Most people don't get it. Even my professors. But you can call me Justin.

[Marvelous3]

I was thinking the exact same thing...Do you think this would work on my 40? If so, omg this bring all new life into my car.

[Darmo]

hurray

[volvorsport]

price please ?

[dirtbike]

Well done Chris this is f**king awesome!
Crazy mad props to yo mofo!
Am I right in thinking that the belhousing is removable on the AW30-40?
It sure looks like there is a split around the bellhousing, if so there is potential to put one of these behind a redblock?
Laters
Nick

[740Weapon]

someone is going to steal your car thinking the paddle shifters are a simple bolt on for any transmission and car.

[volvorsport]

nick , the bellhousing does indeed seperate . Didnt they come behind redblock cars anyway ?

[RedFridge]

What a great job....thank you for the writeup and the pics.

I also thank you for introducing me to some new tablecloths. :rofl:


You score high on the Invento-meter.

Bravo.

[Volvo740Ti]

this is what i have been waiting for. You complaints are exactly as mine about the 960 but your solution is fantastic (mine was deal with it). I am also one to agree on how much to get one made? :badboy: absolutly fantastic

[pwschuh]

Chris, you're awesome. Thanks for the great write-up and for tackling an exceptional project that will be useful for the many autobox owners out there.

[Matt Dupuis]

Damn, Chris - I've been watching your project casually, but I've got to say that you've certainly pulled the big kahuna whiz-bang mod of 2005!

[eyes up wife's 855t]<EYES 855t wife?s up>

[choice_of_beverage]

well i didn't understand any of that write up except for "paddle shifters" and i think thats enough for me. awesome job man. very nice.

john-lee

[Fastmoving?]

That´s a serious and cool modifikation, never heard anyone in Sweden wanting to try that. :badboy:

[resa850]

Holy **** man thats incredible!!! I am beyond impressed (not that Im never not) flat out incredible!

Hmm... now running EMS on a 850 and using this for the transmission control seems like an intresting way to go!

[dirtbike]

nick , the bellhousing does indeed seperate . Didnt they come behind redblock cars anyway ?
From what I could see in Vadis the red blocks got lumbered with the AW71, only the white blocks had the AW30-40. But it would be nice if I'm wrong.
Laters
Nick

[olov]

so all you need is an electronically controlled auto box? mmmmmm


great writeup, you are the man

hip hip....

[blkaplan]

great write up, if you need some help packaging it let me know i may be intersested in coming up with something for yah.

my moms got a 960,,,

oh the ideas oh the ideas

[cst805]

Its been said before, but damn nice work. I know what the S90's getting in the event this fookin GT ever gets finished. So you gonna start makin kits? :badboy:

[nohbudi]

Has anyone ever tried to bolt an aw71 bellhousing to a aw30-40?

[manbeard]

do you still have to use the stock auto stick for park and neutral?

[Marvelous3]

It sounds like the paddles don't come into play until the car is put in "D". So Park, Reverse, and Neutral all work with the shifter.


What do you think I would need to adapt this to my S40?

[acbarnett]

that really rocks, and my mom may well be getting a 960. Between the t6+m90+IRS for the 944, the various v8/SHO v6+TT+MS ideas I've been tossing around for the red 945, and the fact that my mom is looking to get a 960/v90, it looks like I will be needing alot more money for the coming year.

[volvo]

nice job, man.
looks sweet
works well
best of all, YOU did it and ACCOMPLISHED...truly unique item on the car, so dont ever sell it.

patent that ****!!!

[volvo]

...hey, what happens if you leave it in 2nd or 1st and come to a stop??

is it a stall, and shift down to neutral, and start up again.......?

[tjts1]

...hey, what happens if you leave it in 2nd or 1st and come to a stop??

is it a stall, and shift down to neutral, and start up again.......?
You can come to a complete stop in every gear up to third. Stock trasmission locks out 1st and 2nd gear as a form of primitive traction control. Its made possible by the high stall speed torque converter.

[the poi]

You can come to a complete stop in every gear up to third. Stock trasmission locks out 1st and 2nd gear as a form of primitive traction control. Its made possible by the high stall speed torque converter.
you can come to a complete stop in 4th too! Pulling away though would be really quite sluggish :-D However, do not, under any circumstances, engage the lockup at a complete stop, as you will become very embarassed as you have just stalled your automatic :)



Anyway, as far as selling these things... I don't really know. I gave you guys the whole guide! :-P The thing is, I can really only make paddles for 960's as they would otherwise have to be fit to the steering column of that particular car. Now, I do have access to an 850, so that would probably be somewhat doable, and the control system is virtually identical. But that brings up another thing--the control box isn't exactly 100% friendly.

There isn't an easy way to switch between manual and automatic short of unplugging one module and plugging in the other. It could technically be done with a large data switch, but that would very bulky and would require splicing into the entire module harness. And that again is contigent on the TCM not flipping out when it gets killed during running, and throwing the trans into safe-mode when it comes back online. You'd also have to go into a "safe" gear before switching from one mode to the other, seeing as theres no way of telling one box what gear you're shooting for without a lot more I/O.

Go ahead and send me a PM if you're interested in paddles or a full-manual control box (really intersted :-P ). I'll see if theres any interest in a only-manual type controller.

If full-manual won't work for you, then you may want to wait for a few more months. As soon as MSII gets "stable" and the trippy msns-e features are ported over, I'll get to work and get its outputs to work as a trans controller too. That'll allow both auto features and manual-mode, and it'll give you an excuse to actually MS your car :-D



edit:// smilies! :omg:

[the poi]

Okay, ya know what guys? Gimme some time, I'll see if I can make a good auto-manual switch thingy. Make use of that econ/sport thingy. I'll get back to all y'all that are interested.

Send me some PM's thoguh if you're really intersted in dropping a little bit of money... I can make controllers here in LA, the paddles are the things that really need resources. So controllers and instructions on how to set up your paddles should be pretty reaosnable for me when I'm at school. If theres actual genuine interest... I'll see if I can find a paddle solution that isnt so time consuming...

[olov]

are there any ford/gm autobox's that could handle 300hp+ and could have this mod done to them? 460le? then us redblock guys could get in on the fun

[the poi]

there's a handful of controllers floating around for 4l60e's already. From a whole lotta companies really, TCI for example. I dunno if I'd really be able to compete with them jsut by their volume ;-) MegaShift does just that, its a full controller. It's been on teh backburner for awhile though. I can guarntee you any Mega- related trans controller will be first made for the 4l60e though...

[olov]

cool, i've never really looked into it, but you made it look so simple :P

[Gizmo]

There isn't an easy way to switch between manual and automatic short of unplugging one module and plugging in the other. It could technically be done with a large data switch, but that would very bulky and would require splicing into the entire module harness. And that again is contigent on the TCM not flipping out when it gets killed during running, and throwing the trans into safe-mode when it comes back online. You'd also have to go into a "safe" gear before switching from one mode to the other, seeing as theres no way of telling one box what gear you're shooting for without a lot more I/O.

Chris, I asked this elsewhere, but, Couldn't you just use a Y-shaped wiring harness (wiring in both the stock TCM and your unit) with a DPDT switch on the 12v powersupply, switching power between one or the other, so that both units are plugged in, but the transmission only "sees" one at a time?

-Evan

[U.N.C.L.E.]

I think you just made manual transmissions un-cool, and that's :cool:

[coldfusion21]

this is amazingly bad ass. ive always had something for the automagics and this just officially made me proud. i cant even begin to say how cool this is. good luck, and keep us updated. and i really want to see a vid.

[JiggyRig]

Wow, man! I am really impressed! Way to charge that project and see it through to fruition. Total ingenuity on your part, and you are making the final product look totally professional to boot. You must be stoked! :-D That looks amazing!

-Tyson

[volvogeek]

I've always, ALWAYS hated autos. With this mod, I might just be a convert. Damn. I hate you, Chris. Really. God damn that's awesome. *sigh*

[DaButcher]

VERY NICE!!

I want one too, in my volvo 242 with b6304fs..
ps. my car handles great with the new engine :)

[volvorsport]

Hmm , paddles in carbon ??

im more interested in the 850/s70 thing here , since if you can kit it out and it works , i think ill definitely buying something , i need to see it work on an S70 auto tho first .

like i said , paddles are easy for me to do - autoelectrickery , and wiring a PCB somebody else can handle

[BDKR]

I can't say just how much I am completely floored by your efforts. You are quickly becoming a legend here.

:urgod: :urgod: :urgod: :urgod: :urgod: :urgod: :urgod: :urgod:

[steve s]

sweet! :volvo:

[rallyvovo]

I'm probably burning through oil now seeing as I love keeping the big sewing machine at atleast 3 grand :-D .




haha welcome to my world!

[Hoggster]

Wow. Cool!

Is that the same tranny they used in Jeeps?

[The Aspirator]

I was thinkin maybe you could make a little LED panel with numbered faces to show you what gear you're in, that would be sweet! It should be do-able right? Since the controller knows what gear you're in, could you just have another output to power the proper LED?

I was watching that old yahoo megashift forum for a while now, never saw any progress on anything. I'm really glad that you took control and actually DID it.

John

[the poi]

I was thinkin maybe you could make a little LED panel with numbered faces to show you what gear you're in, that would be sweet! It should be do-able right? Since the controller knows what gear you're in, could you just have another output to power the proper LED?

I was watching that old yahoo megashift forum for a while now, never saw any progress on anything. I'm really glad that you took control and actually DID it.

John
my original fear that everything was gonna break kinda bit me in the ass in that regard :-D I used a (much) cheaper basic stamp 1, which only has 8 i/o pins. I onyl have two left as it stands, so not enoguh to control a gear display :-( If I get around to doing my new guage cluster before I have an MS-II solution set up, then I'll just get a BS2 with its 16 i/o pins, and strap it up to a 7 segment display. that oughta look rockin :)

[PRVersion]

ok 1st of all: holy ****ing **** goddamn, that is the coolest ****ing thing i've seen in recent history.

secondly: i skimmed the original write up like 4 times now, (if i try to read it all the electrical mumbo jumbo makes my eyes cross and i involuntarily reach for some sort of bottle...) and i still cant find what tranny you are using for this...is it just the factory 960 tranny?

and will this ever work in a 760? :badboy:

[the poi]

ok 1st of all: holy ****ing **** goddamn, that is the coolest ****ing thing i've seen in recent history.

secondly: i skimmed the original write up like 4 times now, (if i try to read it all the electrical mumbo jumbo makes my eyes cross and i involuntarily reach for some sort of bottle...) and i still cant find what tranny you are using for this...is it just the factory 960 tranny?

and will this ever work in a 760? :badboy:
the stock aw30-40LE in the 960 yes. and it won't work for a 760 or anything with a fully mechnical transmission :-( doesnt mean you cant try to retrofit a aw30-40 to the redblock though, heh

[PRVersion]

doesnt mean you cant try to retrofit a aw30-40 to a redblock tho, heh

i take that as a subtle way of saying thats a difficult task? this coming from somebody who figured out how to put paddle shifters on a volvo is somewhat disheartening :-P

[acbarnett]

Now I'm going to wait and see someone put this system on a T5-R or 850R, or better yet, a p1 v70R. AWD + a paddle shifter would be sick nasty

[the poi]

i take that as a subtle way of saying thats a difficult task? this coming from somebody who figured out how to put paddle shifters on a volvo is somewhat disheartening :-P
heee. compare some pictures of both, theres some whispers floating around that you could put the aw71 bellhousing on the aw30-40, but my foggy memory of the aw71's bell makes me think it isnt that easy....

[coldfusion21]

how different is the aw30-40 from an 4l60e? as in if i built your basic stamp, would it control a 4l60e, or are most e trannys different?

[Neil Peart]

awesome work man!!

[Gizmo]

my original fear that everything was gonna break kinda bit me in the ass in that regard :-D I used a (much) cheaper basic stamp 1, which only has 8 i/o pins. I onyl have two left as it stands, so not enoguh to control a gear display :-( If I get around to doing my new guage cluster before I have an MS-II solution set up, then I'll just get a BS2 with its 16 i/o pins, and strap it up to a 7 segment display. that oughta look rockin :)

Aren't two pins enough to run one of the LCDs off of the paralax website?

[the poi]

not without a PWM output or that sort of thing. technically only 2^2 available combinations, and thats only 4. couldnt run a pwm output as it could not run while the main loop ran : (

[740TurboPerformance]

To quote Jeremy Clarkson "uggggh, floppy gear box" (freakin' floppy paddles) . . . .

[CountOfNowhere]

To quote Jeremy Clarkson "uggggh, floppy gear box" (freakin' floppy paddles) . . . .

he likes the automatic trans w/ flappers, he just doesnt like the manual trans w/ flappers 'cause they don't work.

werd...

[740Weapon]

how different is the aw30-40 from an 4l60e? as in if i built your basic stamp, would it control a 4l60e, or are most e trannys different?

you could do it.

even if they were different.

megasquirt is/was working on a 4l60e controller at one point.

or im making stuff up....

[Boosted2003]

curious you going to make a box to cover up the switches on the top of the steering column

[Dr Dokeh]

AWESOME work, where's the video :-P

[Unregistered]

Help me I'm lost, I was out surfing and I've popped up in a bloody Volvo Forum. Oh s''''t, I can't find my way out! Is this what hells like? I've gotta stop taking those drugs. Ohhh.....

[DaButcher]

Damn I want this in my car!!

[edz]

Aren't two pins enough to run one of the LCDs off of the paralax website?

Yes, I agree with the Poi, from my very basic knowledge of this, you would need 4 outputs. Check out this link below it shows how to interface with just 4 outputs to a 7 segment display. It uses a 4511 chip, if you used the BS1 you would only have 4 i/o left to detect stuff with which is not enough to control the gearbox..
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_7/9.html

A very helpful supplier gave me this info to do this with the BS2, which has all the commands like button branch lookup etc etc. It has 5 times more program space and you could hook the 7 segment display straight onto it as well (15 i/o's).

( pin 0 >> 3 all input effectively called inA in BS2 lingo ) inA is a short for 4 input on pin 0 -3)
pin 0 Drive button input
pin 1 up shift input
pin 2 downshift input
pin 3 spare ? set to whatever needed...

( pin 4 thru to pin 7 all outputs)>> ( called outB in BS2 lingo)
pin 4 solenoid lock up
pin 5 solenoid 1
pin 6 solenoid 2
pin 7 spare output

(pin 8 thru to pin 15 all outputs via dropper resistor in series or a ULN 2803 driver chip)
Effectively called outH ( the last 8 bits ) outL would be pin 0 to pin 7
pin 8 segment a
pin 9 segment b
pin 10 segment c
pin 11 segment d
pin 12 segment e
pin 13 segment f
pin 14 segment g
pin 15 spare or dot on 7 segment display.

In 1 command you can update the outputs to the solenoids
outs>> 7654
For example outb= %0111 All outputs 4 + 5 + 6 are on.

To turn on the character 2 ( your in gear 2 do the following)
segm >> . gfedcba
outh=%01011011 ( C + F + dot are not on so are Zero + output pin 15 is not on as well)

Hope this helps. My 2 cents worth, if it helps! If it's not accurate, don't flame me as I'm a humble beginner, however I'm attempting to build this controller (and went with the BS2 to hopefully control a gear display lcd).

I have also rewritten the BS1 code to BS2?? - I'll post it for Poi to check as I'm only guessing I got it right. :omg:

Ed

[the poi]

Yes, I agree with the Poi, from my very basic knowledge of this, you would need 4 outputs. Check out this link below it shows how to interface with just 4 outputs to a 7 segment display. It uses a 4511 chip, if you used the BS1 you would only have 4 i/o left to detect stuff with which is not enough to control the gearbox..
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_7/9.html

A very helpful supplier gave me this info to do this with the BS2, which has all the commands like button branch lookup etc etc. It has 5 times more program space and you could hook the 7 segment display straight onto it as well (15 i/o's).

( pin 0 >> 3 all input effectively called inA in BS2 lingo ) inA is a short for 4 input on pin 0 -3)
pin 0 Drive button input
pin 1 up shift input
pin 2 downshift input
pin 3 spare ? set to whatever needed...

( pin 4 thru to pin 7 all outputs)>> ( called outB in BS2 lingo)
pin 4 solenoid lock up
pin 5 solenoid 1
pin 6 solenoid 2
pin 7 spare output

(pin 8 thru to pin 15 all outputs via dropper resistor in series or a ULN 2803 driver chip)
Effectively called outH ( the last 8 bits ) outL would be pin 0 to pin 7
pin 8 segment a
pin 9 segment b
pin 10 segment c
pin 11 segment d
pin 12 segment e
pin 13 segment f
pin 14 segment g
pin 15 spare or dot on 7 segment display.

In 1 command you can update the outputs to the solenoids
outs>> 7654
For example outb= %0111 All outputs 4 + 5 + 6 are on.

To turn on the character 2 ( your in gear 2 do the following)
segm >> . gfedcba
outh=%01011011 ( C + F + dot are not on so are Zero + output pin 15 is not on as well)

Hope this helps. My 2 cents worth, if it helps! If it's not accurate, don't flame me as I'm a humble beginner, however I'm attempting to build this controller (and went with the BS2 to hopefully control a gear display lcd).

I have also rewritten the BS1 code to BS2?? - I'll post it for Poi to check as I'm only guessing I got it right. :omg:

Ed
yup, thats about all you gotta do for the gear output. i actually have a bs2 version floating around-- i started the code first in that, before deciding to try fitting it onto a bs1 :-P . I think the only change to the code is the variable declarations up top...other than that it should be pretty much the same.

And funny you should bump this thread now--- I've been fighting the strangest bug in the controller for a while now, it sometimes randomly shifts into 2nd. Completely at random and very, very rarely (its happened three times...). I have a hunch its something onscure in the output circuit... but how its been going from two low outputs for 4th gear to two high one's for 2nd is beyond me. Not quite sure how to troubeshoot it yet either, since I have no idea how to replicate the problem :-(

[edz]

my original fear that everything was gonna break kinda bit me in the ass in that regard :-D I used a (much) cheaper basic stamp 1, which only has 8 i/o pins. I onyl have two left as it stands, so not enoguh to control a gear display :-( If I get around to doing my new guage cluster before I have an MS-II solution set up, then I'll just get a BS2 with its 16 i/o pins, and strap it up to a 7 segment display. that oughta look rockin :)

Does this look ok for BS2 code? Modified yor BS1 code?

Ed

' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.0}

'The Poi's (Chris Wiita's) AW30-40 paddle shifter code, modified to BS2 by Edz

'I/Os:
' 0 is Upshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function
' 1 is Downshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function

' 2 is Solenoid 1 - engages when 1
' 3 is Solenoid 2 - engages when 1
' 4 is Lockup Solenoid - engages when 1

' 5 is Ground for "drive" funcitons of PNP switch. When grounded, flappy
' paddles work. Whenever it loses ground, switches back to 1st

'Shift Table:
' Gear Sol1 Sol2 TCC
' 1 1 0 0
' 2 1 1 0
' 3 0 1 0
' 4 0 0 0
' 4+TCC 0 0 1

' "1st Gear" for P N and R.


Gear VAR Byte 'Current gear
UpBtnWrk VAR Byte
DwnBtnWrk VAR Byte
DriveBtnWrk VAR Byte

'Start in first gear
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

UpBtnWrk = 0
DwnBtnWrk = 0
DriveBtnWrk = 0

'Start loop by checking that PNP is in drive mode, if its grounded, start loop,
'otherwise, set gear to 1, keep checking till drive
ChkDriveBtn:
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Clear button work so it keeps checking if its down, chk upbtn
Go:
DriveBtnWrk = 0
GOTO ChkUpBtn

'Check up button, if grounded, upshift, else, check down button
ChkUpBtn:
BUTTON 0,0,255,0,UpBtnWrk,1,UpShift
GOTO ChkDwnBtn

UpShift:
Gear = Gear + 1
GOTO SetGear

'Check down button, if grounded, downshift, else, check drive button
ChkDwnBtn:
BUTTON 1,0,255,0,DwnBtnWrk,1,DownShift
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

DownShift:
Gear = Gear - 1
GOTO SetGear


SetGear:
BRANCH Gear, [SetGear0,SetGear1,SetGear2,SetGear3,SetGear4,SetGe ar5,SetGear6]

SetGear0:
Gear = 1
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear1:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear2:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear3:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear4:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear5:
HIGH 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear6:
Gear = 5
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

[Boosted2003]

you can come to a complete stop in 4th too! Pulling away though would be really quite sluggish :-D However, do not, under any circumstances, engage the lockup at a complete stop, as you will become very embarassed as you have just stalled your automatic :)



Anyway, as far as selling these things... I don't really know. I gave you guys the whole guide! :-P The thing is, I can really only make paddles for 960's as they would otherwise have to be fit to the steering column of that particular car. Now, I do have access to an 850, so that would probably be somewhat doable, and the control system is virtually identical. But that brings up another thing--the control box isn't exactly 100% friendly.

There isn't an easy way to switch between manual and automatic short of unplugging one module and plugging in the other. It could technically be done with a large data switch, but that would very bulky and would require splicing into the entire module harness. And that again is contigent on the TCM not flipping out when it gets killed during running, and throwing the trans into safe-mode when it comes back online. You'd also have to go into a "safe" gear before switching from one mode to the other, seeing as theres no way of telling one box what gear you're shooting for without a lot more I/O.

Go ahead and send me a PM if you're interested in paddles or a full-manual control box (really intersted :-P ). I'll see if theres any interest in a only-manual type controller.

If full-manual won't work for you, then you may want to wait for a few more months. As soon as MSII gets "stable" and the trippy msns-e features are ported over, I'll get to work and get its outputs to work as a trans controller too. That'll allow both auto features and manual-mode, and it'll give you an excuse to actually MS your car :-D



edit:// smilies! :omg:




What would keep us for getting a BS2 box (assuming it has more memory) when a switch is flipped the control module will automatilly shift at presets you program into the box. Say 2500rpm? You could mount the switch on the paddle shifter or something.

[the poi]

What would keep us for getting a BS2 box (assuming it has more memory) when a switch is flipped the control module will automatilly shift at presets you program into the box. Say 2500rpm? You could mount the switch on the paddle shifter or something.
that would work, obviosuly would require a window switch of some sort--if MSing it, then an RPM input would work.

edit:// obivously aslo would need one for downshifting too, otherwise you'd get stuck in gear. A fun thing to do si a window set up to keep it above 4000rpm. that would be a whole hell of a lot of fun for flogging motors :-D

[tjts1]

At this point im waiting to get the 3.91 in before I do anything. There is no point in having the paddle shifter if 6000rpm happends at 40mph in first and 80mph in second. I'm still jealous.

[jwernerny]

Wow, It looks like this may be my next project on my 960 Rally Car.

Two big questions:

1) How has it been holding up for the last 3 months?

2) If you are doing 40mph in 2nd, can you get the car to go down to 1st gear?

The second question is the big one for me, since 40 - 45mph is the typical speed we maintain on the steepest, twisty back roads. On the stock '94 960, there is not enough power in 2nd gear at 40mph to maintain speed up a real hill, and the car will not shift down to 1st until you get down to something like 20-25mph. When I am running a rally, the last thing I want to do is have to slow down so I can go faster. :-)

- John

[mAydAy]

Go on and hack it on your brothers 850R so I can do it to mine :)

[Renny_D]

Would it also be possible to have lock up engage in any gear on full decel? That would make it almost manual like for twisty stuff. Guess you'd have to get a signal from the TPS but hat would be really cool. I know they do this for some of the fully manual lockup gm stuff.

Thanks
Renny

[tjts1]

Would it also be possible to have lock up engage in any gear on full decel? That would make it almost manual like for twisty stuff. Guess you'd have to get a signal from the TPS but hat would be really cool. I know they do this for some of the fully manual lockup gm stuff.

Thanks
Renny
Yes but im not sure the trasmission is designed to take that kind of torque in first and second gear.

[klr142]

Wow, It looks like this may be my next project on my 960 Rally Car.

Two big questions:

1) How has it been holding up for the last 3 months?

2) If you are doing 40mph in 2nd, can you get the car to go down to 1st gear?

The second question is the big one for me, since 40 - 45mph is the typical speed we maintain on the steepest, twisty back roads. On the stock '94 960, there is not enough power in 2nd gear at 40mph to maintain speed up a real hill, and the car will not shift down to 1st until you get down to something like 20-25mph. When I am running a rally, the last thing I want to do is have to slow down so I can go faster. :-)

- John
The best thing to do would be to change the gearing... Either way you're going to run out of first gear, and you'll have to shift to second... Rallying is all about having shorter gearing, so I'd think about swapping rear end gearsets so you can stay in second through there and have some power...

[the poi]

Wow, It looks like this may be my next project on my 960 Rally Car.

Two big questions:

1) How has it been holding up for the last 3 months?

2) If you are doing 40mph in 2nd, can you get the car to go down to 1st gear?

- John1) not exactly very well:-D had a bug where the thing would randomly and at very occasional intervals shift into 1st. My money is on the PNP switch being set a little less than perfect-- it thinks im shifting out of drive. I'm gonna throw in either some code or something on the circuit that will keep it from dropping out instantaneously when the shifter is moved. Shouldn't be too hard to fix.

2) you can indeed. You can even shift into 1st at 70mph, and contrary to popular belief, nothing all that bad happens:-P The TC's stall speed works in both directions, and it apparently works "backwards" very inefficiently (as you'd imagine). In short, even if the transmission is spinning fast enough to be wanting the motor to go to an ungodly rpm, the engine itself is only brought up to about 4 grand.



mayday-- jsut follow the directions, its seriosuly just as easy on the 850 as it was on mine:) i keep both TCMs in the car, i can swap form one to the other in like 5 minutes:rofl:

as for the lockup, tits is right. the clutch is very very very weak. you can't put much torque (backwards or fowards) on it or it'll start slipping.


in any event, I'm gonna try to actually fix it this weekend. It's current problem is it not wanting to go into 4th gear. Used to work, now it doesn't... one of those annoying things :roll:

[PWRPUFF]

Used to work, now it doesn't... one of those annoying things :roll:
The more you work, the cooler it becomes. :cool: :twisted:

The less you work, the less likely things will break. :-P

-- Kane

edit: I am considering such my Buick though, since the 4L-slippie loses its mind at times, and a T56 swap is out of the question. Kinda hard for a 6-speed on the tree, y'know.

[jwernerny]

The best thing to do would be to change the gearing... Either way you're going to run out of first gear, and you'll have to shift to second... Rallying is all about having shorter gearing, so I'd think about swapping rear end gearsets so you can stay in second through there and have some power...

With the stock rear-end, first is still good for just over 45 mph. That's just enough for me. With the early motor, it is actually much nicer up there where all of the power is.

Back when I had my 145 rally car, I solved the problem of gear even simpler. The car ran a M41 gearbox with the separate OD. The OD was engagable in any forward gear. With a peaky engine, 4:30 rear-end, and 8 forward gears, it moved really well.

For the 960, I am thinking about something like the paddle shifters, hacking the original TCM, or rolling something that acts mostly like the original TCM but also does paddle shifting. I aquired an MCU "starter kit" that comes with a nice processor with lots of IO and a reasonably complete tool chain to work with it. Right now, I am in the information gathering phase.

- John

[DaButcher]

are you considering selling theese kits?

[the poi]

are you considering selling theese kits?
Well, I could probably supply the elctronics, but I just don't have the facilities to make the paddle switches in a reasonable amount of time. The price would just be way too high to make it worth my while:-P

[tjts1]

Well, I could probably supply the elctronics, but I just don't have the facilities to make the paddle switches in a reasonable amount of time. The price would just be way too high to make it worth my while:-P
Its raining up here so im working on the bread board as we speak.

[wingnut]

How many people have tried paddle shifters?

Chris have you finally got the programming perfect, well since it broke?

This is gonna be schweet on my c70.

[Deimos]

Nice mod, only thing I would have done different would be to mount the paddles on the wheel rather than the column.

[2fast242gt]

? why?

[Deimos]

? why?

to make shifting through turns easier? I thought that'd be obvious.

[the poi]

to make shifting through turns easier? I thought that'd be obvious.

shouldn't be shifting in turns. All the cool makes mount them on the column like they should be http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/73788984.jpg

[Deimos]

Ok, call me a freak, but I occasionally downshift through turns...

[jpbturbo]

what about when you have the wheel cranked way over and you accidentally upshift instead of downshifting or vice versa?

[Series #8217]

Yeah, paddles are supposed to be column mounted to prevent that. Unless of course you have less than 1 turn lock to lock....

[Deimos]

Yah, well this is why I'd rather just have a geartronic, personally.

[2fast242gt]

:roll: well do it, he did somthing basicly non of us could do why complain and if he mounted them on the wheel he wouldhave to come up with soem crazy linkage that wouldnt bind upwhen he turns, he deffinetly put alot more thought in this than you...

[wingnut]

Ok, can we stop playing with the newb and get back to the topic?

Has anyone besides tjts and the poi done this yet.

[swede®]

I'm going to bump this thread a little :) I have an "overdrive" question, i want to be able to modify the stock software and change the lock-up (e.i what gears the lock-up should work in)?

Sense the LU is a very weak point in the 30-40 and 50-42 trans and it goes in both third and fourth gear (second if the fluid is hot enough) i would like to change the software so i have no lock-up at all when i selected sport mode.
In Economy mode the trans will shift as normal with LU in third and fourth gear.

Is there any software out there that will allow me to read the TCM, i'v been searching every where without any luck :(

[the poi]

Changing the software wouldn't be possible outside of some hardcore EE. In any event, why would you want to shut off the lockout? It doesn't engage whenever you beat on it.

edit:// and for anyone caring--I added a quarter second delay to "confirm" the shifter is out of drive before dropping it back to first. Works perfectly, drove it to Carlsen a while back, and didn't have any annoying drop-to-first-at-80mph "incidents".

[LloydDobler]

I wanted to ask if you ever got a cover for it. If not, I was thinking you could just take another upper column cover and cut off a bunch of excess and stack it on top of the existing one. With the right tweaks it could look almost factory.

[the poi]

I wanted to ask if you ever got a cover for it. If not, I was thinking you could just take another upper column cover and cut off a bunch of excess and stack it on top of the existing one. With the right tweaks it could look almost factory.

Made the ultrajellybean a while back:

http://www.pbase.com/765ti/image/57854215.jpg

I actually was going to use the top of another column, but it just wasn't going to work, for one reason or another. I don't really remember now...

[swede®]

Changing the software wouldn't be possible outside of some hardcore EE. In any event, why would you want to shut off the lockout? It doesn't engage whenever you beat on it.


That's true, when you WOT it the lockup will not engage. But when you go part throttle with 15-17 psi boost the lockup will engage and it' slipping like crazy when that happen :):)
That's the reason i want to be able to control it, sure i can just install a on/off switch for the lu solenoid but that's no fun :):)

[the poi]

That's true, when you WOT it the lockup will not engage. But when you go part throttle with 15-17 psi boost the lockup will engage and it' slipping like crazy when that happen :):)
That's the reason i want to be able to control it, sure i can just install a on/off switch for the lu solenoid but that's no fun :):)

Iiiiinteresting. Anyway, i have a simple idea for you! Get a hobb's switch and a relay. wire the relay in to the lockup solenoid output and a resistor of similar impedance. Set the hobb's switch to 3-5psi, and just have it switch over to the resistor at that point. The ECU won't flip it because it still thinks its turning on the lockup, and the lockup works otherwise the same. And on top of that, it's set-it-and-forget-it, don't need to worry about flipping a switch before punching it

[swede®]

Iiiiinteresting. Anyway, i have a simple idea for you! Get a hobb's switch and a relay. wire the relay in to the lockup solenoid output and a resistor of similar impedance. Set the hobb's switch to 3-5psi, and just have it switch over to the resistor at that point. The ECU won't flip it because it still thinks its turning on the lockup, and the lockup works otherwise the same. And on top of that, it's set-it-and-forget-it, don't need to worry about flipping a switch before punching it

Damn poi http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/images.ls1/smilies/sm_pray.gif why didn't i think about the hobb switches, i used them alot when i lived in US for water injections. That is a great idea thanks a million :):)

You know we could do the same with the oilpressure soleniod :) = full pressure over a set psi boost. http://www.ls1.com.au/forum/images.ls1/smilies/woohoo.gif

How much are they in the US today, maybe you could send me a bunch b/c i think they are kind of pricey here in sweden.

[DaButcher]

I want to buy your paddlebox v2.. preferrably modded on a TCM plug, so I could just plug and play it..
I'm unable to solder those small feet.

[SouthSideSlider]

oh yes i want to try and do this on my RX-740 instead of the Supra 5 spd. imagine a B230ET in a 2400lb FC with a 4 spd paddle shifted tranni :cool:. i love you....

[linuxman51]

oh yes i want to try and do this on my RX-740 instead of the Supra 5 spd. imagine a B230ET in a 2400lb FC with a 4 spd paddle shifted tranni :cool:. i love you....

can't do it with the auto thats behind the turbo 4.

[initialD]

woooou:)

[edz]

edit:// and for anyone caring--I added a quarter second delay to "confirm" the shifter is out of drive before dropping it back to first. Works perfectly, drove it to Carlsen a while back, and didn't have any annoying drop-to-first-at-80mph "incidents".[/QUOTE]

Hi the Poi.

I'm not totally up to speed on the code, can you show us the code changes you made to fix this. Cheers Edz

[the poi]

here ya go. The "pause 100" is the delay. Works perfect. Hopefully sometime soon I'll upgrade the whole system to work on an atmel avr, to get a gear display, and maybe load determined lockup control. might also have to see what state Megashift is in...


' {$STAMP BS1}
' {$PBASIC 1.1}

'The Poi's (Chris Wiita's) AW30-40 paddle shifter code

'I/Os:
' 0 is Upshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function
' 1 is Downshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function

' 2 is Solenoid 1 - engages when 1
' 3 is Solenoid 2 - engages when 1
' 4 is Lockup Solenoid - engages when 1

' 5 is Ground for "drive" funcitons of PNP switch. When grounded, flappy
' paddles work. Whenever it loses ground, switches back to 1st

'Shift Table:
' Gear Sol1 Sol2 TCC
' 1 1 0 0
' 2 1 1 0
' 3 0 1 0
' 4 0 0 0
' 4+TCC 0 0 1

' "1st Gear" for P N and R.


SYMBOL Gear = B0 'Current gear

SYMBOL UpBtnWrk = B2
SYMBOL DwnBtnWrk = B3
SYMBOL DriveBtnWrk= B4

UpBtnWrk = 0
DwnBtnWrk = 0
DriveBtnWrk = 0

'Start in first gear
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Start loop by checking that PNP is in drive mode, if its grounded, start loop,
'otherwise, set gear to 1, keep checking till drive
ChkDriveBtn:
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
PAUSE 100
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Clear button work so it keeps checking if its down, chk upbtn
Go:
DriveBtnWrk = 0
GOTO ChkUpBtn

'Check up button, if grounded, upshift, else, check down button
ChkUpBtn:
BUTTON 0,0,255,0,UpBtnWrk,1,UpShift
GOTO ChkDwnBtn

UpShift:
Gear = Gear + 1
GOTO SetGear

'Check down button, if grounded, downshift, else, check drive button
ChkDwnBtn:
BUTTON 1,0,255,0,DwnBtnWrk,1,DownShift
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

DownShift:
Gear = Gear - 1
GOTO SetGear


SetGear:
BRANCH Gear, (SetGear0,SetGear1,SetGear2,SetGear3,SetGear4,SetG ear5,SetGear6)

SetGear0:
Gear = 1
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear1:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear2:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear3:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear4:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear5:
HIGH 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear6:
Gear = 5
GOTO ChkDriveBtn


edit://looks like I actually updated first post with the new code. also code tags are broken woo

[2fast242gt]

thats some complacated shiz!

[Raz]

Heh, looks good...

What are you using to talk to the tranny? TLDR

[edz]

Thanks for the quick response Poi, that makes sense.

Edz

here ya go. The "pause 100" is the delay. Works perfect. Hopefully sometime soon I'll upgrade the whole system to work on an atmel avr, to get a gear display, and maybe load determined lockup control. might also have to see what state Megashift is in...


' {$STAMP BS1}
' {$PBASIC 1.1}

'The Poi's (Chris Wiita's) AW30-40 paddle shifter code

'I/Os:
' 0 is Upshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function
' 1 is Downshift button input - set to input with BUTTON function

' 2 is Solenoid 1 - engages when 1
' 3 is Solenoid 2 - engages when 1
' 4 is Lockup Solenoid - engages when 1

' 5 is Ground for "drive" funcitons of PNP switch. When grounded, flappy
' paddles work. Whenever it loses ground, switches back to 1st

'Shift Table:
' Gear Sol1 Sol2 TCC
' 1 1 0 0
' 2 1 1 0
' 3 0 1 0
' 4 0 0 0
' 4+TCC 0 0 1

' "1st Gear" for P N and R.


SYMBOL Gear = B0 'Current gear

SYMBOL UpBtnWrk = B2
SYMBOL DwnBtnWrk = B3
SYMBOL DriveBtnWrk= B4

UpBtnWrk = 0
DwnBtnWrk = 0
DriveBtnWrk = 0

'Start in first gear
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Start loop by checking that PNP is in drive mode, if its grounded, start loop,
'otherwise, set gear to 1, keep checking till drive
ChkDriveBtn:
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
PAUSE 100
BUTTON 5,0,255,0,DriveBtnWrk,1,Go
Gear = 1
GOTO SetGear

'Clear button work so it keeps checking if its down, chk upbtn
Go:
DriveBtnWrk = 0
GOTO ChkUpBtn

'Check up button, if grounded, upshift, else, check down button
ChkUpBtn:
BUTTON 0,0,255,0,UpBtnWrk,1,UpShift
GOTO ChkDwnBtn

UpShift:
Gear = Gear + 1
GOTO SetGear

'Check down button, if grounded, downshift, else, check drive button
ChkDwnBtn:
BUTTON 1,0,255,0,DwnBtnWrk,1,DownShift
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

DownShift:
Gear = Gear - 1
GOTO SetGear


SetGear:
BRANCH Gear, (SetGear0,SetGear1,SetGear2,SetGear3,SetGear4,SetG ear5,SetGear6)

SetGear0:
Gear = 1
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear1:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear2:
LOW 4 'Lockup
HIGH 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear3:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
HIGH 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear4:
LOW 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear5:
HIGH 4 'Lockup
LOW 2 'Sol1
LOW 3 'Sol2
GOTO ChkDriveBtn

SetGear6:
Gear = 5
GOTO ChkDriveBtn


edit://looks like I actually updated first post with the new code. also code tags are broken woo

[fattmatt805]

so when are you going to sell these to the rest of us! oh, and bump of doom!

[the poi]

so when are you going to sell these to the rest of us! oh, and bump of doom!

Would you buy a control box that allows switching between auto and manual mode, but no physical shifters? Youd have to source your own...

[fattmatt805]

would this come with the switches and whatnot for the shifter (or could it) and the metal bracketing be sourced by consumer?

[the poi]

the switches/brackets are the annoying part. If you mount them on the wheel, you need to deal with two coiled wires that can wrap around the wheel. If you mount them to the column, you pretty much need some fabrication... blehk

maybe i'll look into making some sort of universal column mount thinger.

But for right now, 400$ buys you a controller with no switches or paddles are anything, jsut two wires that you can ground to shift up and shift down :-P

[jwernerny]

But for right now, 400$ buys you a controller with no switches or paddles are anything, jsut two wires that you can ground to shift up and shift down :-P

Would this plug into the existing harness, or would it have to be spliced in?

[the poi]

It would have to splice since I wouldn't be able to get mating connectors for the trans controller. There'd be about 4 splices and two wires would have to be cut and reconencted with 4 butt connectors.

[cuaz64]

Good Work!:cool: Why don't try with a geartronic style shifter? Would work?

[badvlvo]

This looks so good in person!
I'm interested to see what happens with Tiebird and his paddle shifter build.

[edz]

the switches/brackets are the annoying part. If you mount them on the wheel, you need to deal with two coiled wires that can wrap around the wheel. If you mount them to the column, you pretty much need some fabrication... blehk

maybe i'll look into making some sort of universal column mount thinger.

But for right now, 400$ buys you a controller with no switches or paddles are anything, jsut two wires that you can ground to shift up and shift down :-P

I came across this link the other day, this controller should work with the Volvo transmission, costs $135 US plus post (cost me $170 Au landed in Australia). http://www.awshifting.com/pictures/controller.jpg

http://www.awshifting.com/controller.htm

Has lots of reviews from happy clients, fits jeeps, Toyotas, Hondas, so no reason why it wouldn't work with Volvos. You can see a video of it working here -
http://de.youtube.com/watch?v=FhbsMnw1Rr8

http://www.tacomaterritory.com/forum/showpost.php?p=546184&postcount=35

[the poi]

I came across this link the other day, this controller should work with the Volvo transmission, costs $135 US plus post (cost me $170 Au landed in Australia)....

The cost I pulled out of my ass was the minimum price I could be bothered to make anything:-P

[Lord Tentacle]

This looks so good in person!
I'm interested to see what happens with Tiebird and his paddle shifter build.

it works
my shifters are the total ghettto... but the differences in the 940 stalks prevent me from doing anything nice like what shris has

and I'm talking to glen about making an improved version with a dedicated silk screen
things like 4 outputs to deal with the 5 speed trans on the S40
also with dedicated LED outputs to display current gear
cost for a kit from glen would be in the $40 range(yes chris if it does get sold you WILL get some $$$ for every controller sold)

[mmad]

What a nice mod. is it possible to use it on a zf4hp22eh gearbox.
-MMAD

[JVC]

this is amazing... that has to be some of the funnest shiz to drive of all time. thats super sweet and if you were able to make a kit for the paddle shifter thing, and if I had a 9 series (wouldnt this work with 7 series also?) then I would totally buy it and have a sick setup.

Nice Work
-John

[linuxman51]

it only works if you have an electronically controlled transmission. to do that with an aw71 would require retrofitting an A43DE into your car for the sake of paddle shifters.

[SouthSideSlider]

Would you buy a control box that allows switching between auto and manual mode, but no physical shifters? Youd have to source your own...

i know this is old but about how much would you want for the Shifttronic(auto and manualmode switching) box? i already have a kia SHifttrnic gear selector laying around iand firuge this on a 1999 XC70 would be bad ass.

[Aga_Diff]

Paddle shifters on 960? love it! :lol:

[Nils]

the idea is cool, but how's the actual gearchange quality? any big differences between shifting at full throttle and no throttle? since actuating the solenoids without taking rpm's and stuff into account, adjusting line pressure and solenoid actuating times is a bit crude shifting method if you want your gearbox to last as long as it does with the stock module.
clutch filling pressure, clutch filling time, pre-filling, holding pressure, actuator delay times and all that is whats used to make the shifts comfortable and more important they make sure you're not slipping/burning clutches.
again the idea is cool but i'm worried about the gearbox life.(and the possibility of overrevving the gearbox on downshifts...once you've seen an auto box explode on a downshift leaving holes in the transmission tunnel and roof i'm not too fond of modding auto box controllers)

[stylngle2003]

When I drove Lord Tentacle's car around, it shifted fine regardless of what RPM we were at, and regardless of the throttle position. slow, comfortable shifts are what kill an auto trans anyway, since they lead to increased clutch pack heat loads and increased friction contact time.

[Lord Tentacle]

the idea is cool, but how's the actual gearchange quality? any big differences between shifting at full throttle and no throttle? since actuating the solenoids without taking rpm's and stuff into account, adjusting line pressure and solenoid actuating times is a bit crude shifting method if you want your gearbox to last as long as it does with the stock module.
clutch filling pressure, clutch filling time, pre-filling, holding pressure, actuator delay times and all that is whats used to make the shifts comfortable and more important they make sure you're not slipping/burning clutches.
again the idea is cool but i'm worried about the gearbox life.(and the possibility of overrevving the gearbox on downshifts...once you've seen an auto box explode on a downshift leaving holes in the transmission tunnel and roof i'm not too fond of modding auto box controllers)

the trans is not that advanced....
it will last longer with the paddle shifts

[the poi]

/\ aye. the comfortable shifting is delivered via slipping the clutches. Minimize slip, minimize wear. Nothing will explode unless you downshift into too low a gear (but in "D", that's impossible, as the brakes don't engage on 1st and 2nd, so you can't really over rev anything)