typical coolant temps?

[ovlov760]

I realize this isn't exactly a EMS question but I figure the only people who can accurately record this info are the ones with EMS. What is the outside temp where you live and what kind of coolant temps are you getting in and out of boost?

[kyle242gt]

192-198, in or out of boost doesn't seem to matter, but I haven't been boosting much these last few logs.

[linuxman51]

yea thats usually where mine are with the a/c on, its been a bit warm tempered since the cooling jackets in the motor and head had a bunch of **** built up in em from sitting for a while, i'm slowly getting it flushed out.

[coldfusion21]

179 unless i beat on it, then usually around 190+

[ovlov760]

makes me wonder cause sitting in traffic temps were 207-210. Spiked in boost to 281F and then went down. Guess I will start by replacing the thermostat...

[tequila_gundam_no_chaser]

hmm. I get around 170ish to 180 when riding around. Sometimes idling, it will sit at 195, and with the aircon, it likes to max out at 215. Maybe my car is warm tempered as wel.

[kyle242gt]

what's your factory gauge doing throughout this? Where's the CLT located? If your temp spikes like that I'd be a'feared of a HG leak :omg:

[ovlov760]

factory gauge never moves beyond 12'clock. My aftermarket gauge doesn't react that fast. CLT is coming from the stock volvo sensor in the head. I'm not loosing any coolant.

[JayPSC]

Gah is mine running hot then, getting 99C constantly (210F) needle doesn't move off centre on stock gauge. Brand new stat in mine too...

[Boris740]

makes me wonder cause sitting in traffic temps were 207-210. Spiked in boost to 281F and then went down. Guess I will start by replacing the thermostat...
Mine is something like thet but it does not spike to to 281 Are you sure the you didn't mean 218?

[own6volvos]

Not getting "digital" readouts, but I have a calibrated VDO coolant gauge. With ambient temps around 40-90 my engine temps stay around 185-190 driving around, and up to 193-195 if the thermostat is just starting to open up. Never goes under or above that. Cooling is provided with a massive OMG earth weather changing flexfan. With my electric fan it always moving around. Enjoyed going to 200F easy driving around unless the fan was always on. I always run the same thermostat of 87C.

EDIT: This is all n/a stuff. If I had a turbo on with my old electric fan setup it might have been riding even higher.

[benflynn]

205 when my gauge reads at red it is 225-230

[The Aspirator]

My car stays between 190-200 all the time, but in hot traffic after a long hard run it'll maybe read 205. My e-fan turns on and off at about 195. My brothers car doesn't get above 180* with the e-fan on all the time.

[ovlov760]

Mine is something like thet but it does not spike to to 281 Are you sure the you didn't mean 218?
According to the datalog it jumped to 281 in one cell as I was accelerating and then by the next cell was already coolling off. Could a bad thermostat be causing it to get this hot? The car does not leak or burn coolant period. I've never had to add coolant and the coolant always looks clean.

[medfurd]

factory gauge never moves beyond 12'clock. My aftermarket gauge doesn't react that fast. CLT is coming from the stock volvo sensor in the head. I'm not loosing any coolant.

87+ 740s got the compensated coolant temp gauge. I used to have one on my 764ti and it was useless. My 85 actually registers different temps.

[ovlov760]

87+ 740s got the compensated coolant temp gauge. I used to have one on my 764ti and it was useless. My 85 actually registers different temps.
That's why i'm using MS as the gauge. The compensated temp gauges will move once the coolant temp goes beyond a set point.

[The Aspirator]

281 is probably way above the boiling point [/guess], but you sure that wasn't just a glitch spike? Sometimes my RPM and MAP will spike to 8000/255 for just a split second, then back to normal without affecting driveability.

[ovlov760]

281 is probably way above the boiling point [/guess], but you sure that wasn't just a glitch spike? Sometimes my RPM and MAP will spike to 8000/255 for just a split second, then back to normal without affecting driveability.
my coolant isn't boiling over. It reads 281 in one cell and out of boost in the next cell 207. I don't see anything unusual about the log. Other places in boost it read a steady 245F. Could a buggered thermostat cause the temps to get this high?

[ovlov760]

Kenny thinks my problem could also be related to noise on the wire. Does the recommended Gm CLT sensor thread into 530 heads?

[yozsi]

for some reason, im reading 220 on ms and below middle on the guage?? help?

[own6volvos]

for some reason, im reading 220 on ms and below middle on the guage?? help?

If this is in a 740, they are known to really dampen the reading, and not even move out of the middle area till its too late.

[ovlov760]

I put in a new tstat but it didn't make any difference that I can tell. Temps still rise in boost rapidly. .. this time to 260F. However my sunpro gauge stays pegged at 180-190 and the stock gauge never moves? The CLT sensor is grounded to the intake manifold with everything else and nothing seemed odd about the wiring. I could however rewire it for ****s and giggles. If my car is really getting to 260-280F wouldn't I have popped something by now? I'd be knocking like crazy but i'm not. :grrr:

[ovlov760]

One thing that concerns me is that my CLT is connected to the white wire of kenny's harness and oranga is IAT. I think that's what his article said to do at the time. Now it says they should be wired the opposite?? I rewired the CLT(still using the white wire though) and it still is acting weird. Spiked to 295F for two cells in boost and was holding steady at 214F everywhere else. However it doesn't feel any hotter under the hood and my coolant isn't boiling over. :roll: Sunpro gauge still reads 180F.

[The Aspirator]

If it's spiking for only two cells in a datalog, there's NO way that's accurate, just some noise in the wire. How new is the sensor? Wiring may be too thin or next to something that puts off bad vibes. I seem to get it too sometimes. 214* is the upper limits of coolant temps I would think, I believe my tank boils over when hotter than ~215 ish.

[ovlov760]

The CLT sensor is the orignal Volvo one. CLT cells will read 228,270,281,239,219 and in another place 228,223,270,295,281,233,219 or 253,245,295,295,214? Only in boost when i'm accelerating.

[Boris740]

The CLT sensor is the orignal Volvo one. CLT cells will read 228,270,281,239,219 and in another place 228,223,270,295,281,233,219 or 253,245,295,295,214? Only in boost when i'm accelerating.

I have a theory here and it needs to be verified. I have noticed slight fuzz or noise on my CLT trace only when in boost especially when really straining. It might be that the CLT sensor has become somewhat microphonic or noise sensitive. Change it and see.

[The Aspirator]

Yeah my coolant temps always rise very steadily, no jumping around like that. The datalogs are always like 191,191,191,192,192,192,193,194,194,194, etc. I'm using a new stock sensor.

[ovlov760]

Even while MS gives me those readings the aftermarket gauge stays steady at 180-190F. The aftermarket gauge sensor is in the upper radiator hose, I assume that's an ok place to get a reading from for accuracy?

[ovlov760]

I have a theory here and it needs to be verified. I have noticed slight fuzz or noise on my CLT trace only when in boost especially when really straining. It might be that the CLT sensor has become somewhat microphonic or noise sensitive. Change it and see.
Before it was like this the CLT would always go up a bit in boost. Now it just plain skyrockets. Autozone claims to have a new sensor for $16.99 so I guess i'll pick one up tomorrow.

[kyle242gt]

Even while MS gives me those readings the aftermarket gauge stays steady at 180-190F. The aftermarket gauge sensor is in the upper radiator hose, I assume that's an ok place to get a reading from for accuracy?

I think that's a bad place for a temp sensor; it will read stone cold until the thermostat cycles open, then will rapidly rise to temp, then will start to drop when the stat closes back up a bit. I imagine in a longer term, it's fine, but for short term I wouldn't trust it.

[ovlov760]

swapped in the temp sensor for a new Wells unit and I'm getting the same readings. The sensor is grounded to the intake manifold with everything else and a I have strap running from the manifold to the (-) terminal on the battery. Should I try grounding it somewhere else? Shielded wire? Is there anything in 24s9 that changed the resistance/temp values that could do this?

[Boris740]

swapped in the temp sensor for a new Wells unit and I'm getting the same readings. The sensor is grounded to the intake manifold with everything else and a I have strap running from the manifold to the (-) terminal on the battery. Should I try grounding it somewhere else? Shielded wire? Is there anything in 24s9 that changed the resistance/temp values that could do this?

So much for my bad sensor theory. Can you check if the three resistance values for three different temperatures were entered correctly in Easytherm?
Try also connecting a volt meter across CLT line and see if it takes off so disproportionately at boost. The voltage should be dropping as the temperature rises. BTW I am using 24s9 without any problems.

[ovlov760]

No difference after changing the resistor values. I could try shielded wire for the sensor since it is near the TPS and hall sensor? worth the effort? Tried a different ground and again no luck. :grrr:

[Boris740]

No difference after changing the resistor values. I could try shielded wire for the sensor since it is near the TPS and hall sensor? worth the effort? Tried a different ground and again no luck. :grrr:

Changing the resistance vales? Changing them to what? You are supposed to enter three resistance values for three different temperatures for that particular sensor. Easytherm will generate the new s19 file by modifying the new version of XYZmegasquirt.s19 which you have renamed to megasquirt s19 It is this s19 file that you have to upload to MS. As far as shielding goes, I do not think that this is your problem. Why would the temperatures jump only at boost? Besides the input line for CLT is filtered on MS board.

[ovlov760]

Why would the temperatures jump only at boost?
If I knew that I wouldn't have made this thread. :-P

[Boris740]

If I knew that I wouldn't have made this thread. :-P

I sympathize with your frustration. Mine a rhetorical question hinting that there could be some error with the data that you entered in Easytherm. Since thermistors are not linear devices, Easytherm needs three values to calculate the equivalent temperature points. If some of those values are incorrect you may get a situation where some of the temperature reading will be correct but not the others.

[ovlov760]

I'm using these values posted by the poi:
-4/15000
104/1200
212/180
I didn't change any of the other values in easytherm.

[Boris740]

I'm using these values posted by the poi:
-4/15000
104/1200
212/180
I didn't change any of the other values in easytherm.

hose are the same values as what I am using. If it wasn't for the correct reading at below boost I'd swear the the CLT and IAT sensors were swapped. Can you email me your MSQ?
borism@sympatico.ca

[ovlov760]

So tonight it's not going over 215F. It maxes out there in boost. Oddly my wideband is constantly reading a 18.XX AFR and occasionally reading correctly but mostly not. Ughh :grrr:

[ovlov760]

Tonight I drove the car for about 30 min and did some tuning and hard driving. When I got home I immediately siphoned some hot coolant out of the overflow tank and measured the temp with the candy thermometer I bought last night. The candy thermometer read about 165F. At the same time MS says 215F?

Edit:before I started I measured it cold and it was 100F. MS also ready 100F.

[Boris740]

Tonight I drove the car for about 30 min and did some tuning and hard driving. When I got home I immediately siphoned some hot coolant out of the overflow tank and measured the temp with the candy thermometer I bought last night. The candy thermometer read about 165F. At the same time MS says 215F?

Edit:before I started I measured it cold and it was 100F. MS also ready 100F.

The temperature of the coolant in the overflow tank that went through the
radiator is not the same as the temperature of the coolant in the head. BTW
I took a look at your MSQ and it needs some serious attention. I am getting
very busy for next month so I will not be able to help you but I really think
that you can do better. Your VE table is really bumpy for instance. Look
at it carefully and smooth out the huge variances from bin to bin. Have a
look at other peoples tables.
Also enable the rev limiter and overboost protection.

[ovlov760]

The temperature of the coolant in the overflow tank that went through the
radiator is not the same as the temperature of the coolant in the head. BTW
I took a look at your MSQ and it needs some serious attention. I am getting
very busy for next month so I will not be able to help you but I really think
that you can do better. Your VE table is really bumpy for instance. Look
at it carefully and smooth out the huge variances from bin to bin. Have a
look at other peoples tables.
Also enable the rev limiter and overboost protection.
I know but is it normal for them to be that far off or is the MS gauge still freaking outa bit? Any clues to the temp thing? Now it just reads 215F all the time after the car warms up.

Serious attention in what ways? Just the VE table and the other two things you mentioned? The VE table will probably remain rough as I made some changes and was working with Jays program on it and now my wb02 is freaking out leaving me unable to safely make adjustments.

BTW putting in a new knock sensor and replacing the bolt seems to have gotten rid of the high rpm knock. The old knock sensor might not have been at fault though since the bolt was messed up apparently.