No longer mom's grocery getter(1991 244)

[klr142]

Summary of current setup(updated 03/14/10):
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/48251-2/IMG_1197.JPG
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/klrclean244/IMG_0251.sized.jpg
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/48285-1/Img_0867.jpg
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/48165-1/Oldvsnew.jpg
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/47907-2/IMG_1138_001.JPG

Car's full gallery seen here with the newest pictures at the end: http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/MY244/

Standard details:
-M47 transmission with RSI modded flat flywheel(15.4lbs) - had lightened LH2.4 flywheel(pedastal'd + more, 22.2lbs vs. 28.7lbs)
-Keyless entry(was working, now solenoid or something in door is weak, need to look into it)
-Heated seats
-Air-conditioning converted to R134
-Pioneer deck with 5.25" front door speakers and 4" rear door speakers, RF amp, and Kicker 10" sub(thanks Dan!).
-Dash mat, floor mats(blue cloth and black rubber)
-Large tachometer, small clock conversion
-VDO vacuum gauge
-De-pinstriped
-Removed front amber reflectors, installed clear upper parking light bulbs, kept amber turn signal bulb
-Black on blue interior theme

Suspension/Brakes
-17x7.5" Tethys wheels from a S60T5, wheel and hub centric 35.5/38.5mm adapters(additional 5mm spacer on each rear), rear fender lips "rolled", 225/45-17 Hankook Ventus V12 EVO tires just installed, was running 215/45-17 General Exclaim UHP tires(great for a daily driver tire, especially in the wet when new, not the best for autoxing with though, they're a little on the soft side and don't have as much contact area as they could)
-IPD braided stainless steel brake lines
-ATE Type 200 brake fluid
-Poly control arm bushings up front
-Poly torque rod bushings, original front lower TABs with new rubber rear TABs
-IPD adjustable panhard rod
-25/22mm swaybars with poly bushings and solid/adjustable end-links from Kaplehnke racing(currently stock links w/poly)
-Stripped of undercoating and painted front subframe, control arms, strut assemblies and front calipers
-Volvodan upper strut brace, Volvo GT strut to firewall braces(currently removed for less interior noise/vibration), IPD Cherry lower brace(heavy, but so worth it)
-GT strut tower reinforcement plates
-Bilstein HDs up front, Koni Reds/Specials set full stiff(still not quite perfect but better than anything else I've tried...)
-10x200lb coil-over springs up front sitting in stock perches with help and 2.75-3ish coils cut from wagon springs on the rear(now dead coil removed from TME rear springs)
-Trimmed rear bump stops, none up front except whatever's in the Bilsteins

Engine
-RSI head with 46/38 valves, street valvespring kit(7500rpm), Jonathan's port work and valve grind, shaved .040" and using a .040" MLS headgasket for .033" squish - 10.8:1 compression
-ENEM K13 advanced a tooth or so(feels similar to H cam in this setup on stock intake/LH, etc.)
-LH2.4 ECU and EZK chips(custom 7500rpm)
-Ishihara-Johnson crank scraper(*should* remove until I have piston oil squirters)
-Oil pan drilled in optimal position for turbo oil return(that I don't plan to use)
-KG Trimning Type 1 header with 44mm primaries and secondaries, NEED a larger one...
-RSI full 2.5" mandrel bent S.S. exhaust with 2.5" metallic spun Magnaflow cat, Dynomax Race Bullet and Magnaflow 5x8x18" oval(swapped out for my old 4x9x14" version because it was too loud with the engine/header work)
-16V white top injectors(cleaned/flowed) - (stock ones were still providing enough fuel in this setup, but...)
-3.0bar FPR
-Bougicord shielded spark plug wires after multiple aftermarket plug wire failures
-K&N air filter in modified airbox
-NGK BP7ES spark plugs
-Wideband o2 sensor

Appraised at $8500, "fair market value".

Performance:
-Weight: 2900lb
-Dynoed 139whp and 146wlb-ft, best AT setup pre-head/cam with RSI NA cam was 115whp and 128wlb-ft on a Mustang dyno.
-Fastest pass at the drag strip is a 15.608@85.34mph, with a 2.036 60' on the current setup(25psi in the Generals). I had a 15.5 in me but didn't make it happen.
-Best gas mileage so far is 30.0mpg, car seems to be capable of 400+mi on one tank... w000! This was with the H cam, headwork, m47 and 3.73 rear end. Even with the ENEM cam I'm averaging 24mpg mixed.

To do list:
-Tint
-Suspension geometry correction when available from BNE
-MSnS or some other sort of programmable stuff
-larger header
-ITBs or custom plenum style intake
-Maybe 250-300lb front springs and 200lb rears on coil-overs at some point
-bottom end rebuild with lighter parts and higher compression...


When I first got the car:
So, I've been driving it around for almost two months now while my 142's chillin at the shop, and a couple of weeks ago, I put down the money to buy it. It just "grew" on me, a LOT. Now 105.6k, with a b230F, LH2.4, and a tragic auto that for some DUMB Volvo reason, doesn't have a lockup converter. If only it did *sigh*, I'd be much happier. So, here it was, while my mom was trying to sell it:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_1483.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_1485.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_1486.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_1488.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_1489.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_1490.sized.jpg

The plan is, nice, comfy, relatively luxurious(coming from a '68 142) with keyless entry, four speakers(instead of one), heated seats, a REAL rear window defroster, power brakes, power steering, AC(needs to be changed to R134), power windows, etc.

[kahlua240]

that exterior is rediculously clean... :rockon:

[klr142]

Thanks! Other than the broken passenger side pocket and the plastics on the rear deck, it is REALLY clean. I love it. :-D Now I need some dark tint to protect everything else, and the dash is just STARTING to have a little crack in it... Any ideas? I need to get a dash cover for sure, but will that stop the splitting?

Another post coming soon, with starting mods... :badboy:

[klr142]

Custom work begins!

Out with the preheat hose, preheat thermostat, old rotor, old cap, old air filter... Just put new NGK plugs in a few months before, as well as some Mobil 1 w/Purolator filter, which today, 1500 miles later, is still clean looking! In with the Aurora 8.5mm spark plug wires, new Bosch cap and rotor, Mann air filter... Also gave it a little water treatment, as I don't have any seafoam. Gas mileage didn't really seem to budge much, if at ALL after doing all this. Even though the old air filter was rock hard(not THAT dirty though), and the plugs, cap, and rotor, were only 14000 miles old, but they looked bad-ish.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3760.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3764.sized.jpg
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http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3761.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3762.sized.jpg

As you can see, I also added the Virgos and Virgo replicas I got a while ago, with massive 225/50-15 Grand Spirit tires on them... I did NOT purchase the tires, and they are NOT what I would've gone with, but that's what I got for $150, new tires on Virgos, much better! The grip, is insane. 240s ROCK! The front wheels have less dish, are slightly lighter, and easier to clean, IPD Replicas. I have the "real" virgos on the back because they have a deeper dish :badboy: lol. I get rubbage on the outside of the Pass. side rear wheel, and MAJOR rubbage on the inside of the Driver's side... :-\ Only over large bumps though. Or just when I'm flogging it on the mountain roads on my way to work. :twisted:

Yesterday, I gave the car a wash... Now I need to vacuum it out, and clean the engine bay... Should be getting it all buffed sometime in the near future too. I'll probably take off the pinstriping before that, and I MIGHT remove the Volvo and 240 emblems too, but I'm not sure if I want to or not yet. I DID take off the Herzog Meier and stupid Dove thingies though.
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3792.sized.jpg
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http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3800.sized.jpg
^BEEFY!^
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3801.sized.jpg

And now, for the differences between the Virgos and the IPD Replicas. Yep, different colors I know. :-(
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3803.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3804.sized.jpg

V15 cam, 240 Turbo exhaust, and tranny flush are next on the mods list... Well, they were going to be, but then Pat came up with this other idea... I don't have pictures on this computer yet though, so I'll hold off on that post...:twisted:

[kahlua240]

tranny flush is the fastest, easiest thing you'll ever do.

[olov]

+t it and go for the record for breaking that pos tranny :P

great car, i wish mine was in that one;s shape when i got it

[Hank Scorpio]

Man thats one clean 240. Reminds me of my first one :D

[CountOfNowhere]

there were a couple of purdy 42/63's at the Tigard yard.... one of those would be a good match for a naturally aspirated big-rod b230f like they put in the 90+ 240's...

jussss sayin'

It's definately purdy as **** tho. I'd love to have a quiet, clean car like that.

[klr142]

I'll do the +T thing later... For now I'll settle for the V15 and Turbo exhaust(minus the S bend at the end). I've got some other projects and money I need to take care of before I start going crazy(ish) on my DD. But when the time comes, I'll be ready to boost 5-8psi with a 90+ manifold... I'll need a bigger exhaust and a different cam though, so that will probably not be until next next summer, and if people pressure me too much, I might not get other work done on the 142, and I'll have to +T this instead... We'll see. Do those T3s mount up to the 90+ manifolds?

[volvogeek]

Nice! Looks good with the virgos on it. Can't wait to see it in person, either before or after mods. :)

[klr142]

Hey, how come there's no link to info about your Chrysler van in your sig? I'd love to hear what you've done to that baby! Lol.

The Virgos DEFINITELY worked wonders on the car. With the way it looks now though, it REALLY needs some 17"s or 18"s though... :twisted:

[PWRPUFF]

You need center caps ... I propose some nice black plastic ones, courtesy of engine degreaser cans.

http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/gallery/wheels/Virgo3.jpg

-- Kane ... I know that even you can afford 0.99 a can. :)

[klr142]

Hmmm.... I dunno man... Money's pretty tight these days... I think I may be in luck though, I think there are some cans lying around here somewhere. But maybe, they're in the 145, which is at Ethan's house, lol. Oh, and that doesn't account for the smaller hole in the IPD replica though, so I don't think it'll work. :-(

[klr142]

Dayum. What is it with 240s? Maybe it's just who I live with now or something. Progress on the 142 was always slow, and I still haven't done THAT much to make it handle better or faster. Maybe it's also part of having a car that's pretty close already to stage 0, but seriously. Work is progressing FAST on this car!

Last wednesday night, we lowered it.(so far, 2.5 coils off the right front, 2.4ish off the left front, 2 each off the rears) Looks hip hoppin, yesterday, we tossed in a tach and small clock, and tomorrow night, we toss on the panhard rod I got from IPD, cut some more off the rear springs, and install bigger sways. We removed those heavy plates behind the rear axle on both sides too. The left side rubs on the inside still, and we even have a 5mm spacer on it! After we put the bar in though, I'll have 5mm spacers on both sides, giving the back wheels an effective offset of +15 each, and better filling the rear fenders... Loving it!

And, I think I might even get dumb and toss the V15 in this week as well... Maybe...

Oh, and I might try to get a good condition 13c this week as well. Uh oh. No, it won't be installed for a GOOD while, but, since it's in good condition, is local, and cheap, I might as well grab it while I can.

Oh, I know of some Poly torque rod bushings as well... I don't think those'll make it in until next week possibly. I'll have to pick them up on Saturday. If I find the time that is.

Beefy!!!
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3827.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3831.sized.jpg
Hmm, what's inside this box?
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3834.sized.jpg
(Yes I know the pictures need to be lightened, I just wanted some quick pics)

More pics coming tomorrow... :) This is soooooo awesome. I love my roommate. It's all his fault, I blame him. The asshole... :-P

Thanks Pat! Thanks Ethan! Thanks Mom! Thanks Collan! Thanks Lee! Thanks TB! And everyone else too of course.

[klr142]

And just for fun... The next next things on the to do list, not in any particular order or time frame:
-Tint
-Bilsteins
-Alignment
-Turbo exhaust
-Speaker/deck upgrades
-Strut bracing+maybe lower brace as well

All sooner rather than later though. So hopefully that means within a couple/three months. Insurance is just about to hit me though, so we'll see how much that hurts...

[klr142]

Got a little more off of the rear springs, not necessarily enough for optimum handling, but I don't want the car to be any lower than it already is, so I'll have to go to alignment settings and swaybar setups to tune that out... I also forgot to take pics of the panhard installed, and the car lowered in the light of the shop... So, here's all I can manage for now, along with a picture of a Ferrari F430 Spider I saw on my way to work.
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3838.sized.jpg
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http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3847.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3849.sized.jpg

EDIT: This is with the 5mm spacers installed on both sides... The car is so low, that the panhard rod goes PAST parallel with the ground and causes the DRIVER'S side to rub when I go over bumps(on the outside of the tire) now. I might adjust the panhard rod a little bit, but I might just leave it where it is and take the 5mm spacers off. I don't like the way it handles right now with them on. This weekend we'll install the V15 and some bigger sways. Was supposed to do sways tonight, but I didn't bring them to work with me...

Anyone know of some cheap bilsteins for sale? I need some quick... After those and the coming strut tower bars, I need an alignment! Then the car will handle, OH so well. Mmmph, can't wait!

[Crazychopstick]

You need center caps ... I propose some nice black plastic ones, courtesy of engine degreaser cans.

http://www.powerpuff.net/volvo/gallery/wheels/Virgo3.jpg

-- Kane ... I know that even you can afford 0.99 a can. :)

HAHAHA. You really roll like that?

[linuxman51]

e-fan! e-fan! its seriously like +10hp (straight up rice style, but fo real tho), esp if the fan clutch is old.

[klr142]

e-fan! e-fan! its seriously like +10hp (straight up rice style, but fo real tho), esp if the fan clutch is old.
Oh fo sho man, I believe it... It'll be in the works. Later today we do the cam swap, new shocks(just KYB GAJs for now), and some bigger sways.

[b4_ford]

Did you get the 25/25 bars? If you need poly bushings, I've got plenty...

[klr142]

Did you get the 25/25 bars? If you need poly bushings, I've got plenty...
Nope, don't have any. We went to Damascus earlier today, picked up 24 poly torque rod bushings(three cars worth) for free, hehehe, I smuggled them all into my pockets in my jumpsuit and big coat, and Turbo sways(23/21), better than nothing!

Right now I'm in the VShop, Pat's in there replacing the seals on the front of the engine, timing belt tensioner, and installing the cam... :cool: I put turbo sways on his car, my car, put some used KYB GAJs on the rear of my car, and some new KYB GR2s on the front.

Strut tower bars should be in the mail soon. I want to get the lower chassis brace and the GT strut mount reinforcements next(well, suspension wise next). And install the torque rod bushings.

Next on the list is some tint I think, and accumulating parts for +Ting it! Then, m47, red/clear rear taillights(current ones have cracking/leaking issues), e-codes... And whatever else I've mentioned before. Pictures coming tomorrow of some stuff that we did tonight.

w0000! Can't WAIT to drive it!

[klr142]

BuDunkaDunk!

It's hip-hoppin! Initial start-up was rough like a mad cam until the car warmed up a tad and got used to new cam, but now it idles smoothly and makes more power per throttle application everywhere! Well, MAYBE not under 2krpm, but MAYBE yes even under 2krpm. Timed straight up. It feels better. The 6k rev limiter is definitely not going to be holding me back, the car doesn't STOP pulling per say, but it definitely drops off(after maybe 5-5.2k? gotta try it out some more), just not as bad as the stock cam. We'll see how much more it improves when I chop off the front of the airbox and put on a Turbo exhaust... Should help nicely up there and everywhere else as well. Dyno coming soon I think, but that'll be before the exhaust for sure, and maybe before the further intake mods as well. I'm going to route the preheat hose out to the front spoiler as well as cut the front off of the box. I'd like to do the exhaust and the intake at the same time, just for a bigger seat of the pants difference, but, I think I've spent more than enough on the car for the time being. The exhaust will be January stuff... Probably anyway... :twisted:

When going 40-50mph, and I'd floor it, dropping into second, it pushes me back in the seat noticeably now. Partially also because I tightened the kickdown cable, which I need to do some more because it shifts way too soon still, but mainly because the car makes that much more mid and upper rpm torque(thus HP). Going up hills in OD should be better on the highway now, which will be nice, because before it just wasn't adequate enough and I'd lose speed unless I downshifted on some hills(OUCH!).

So, installed parts for today list:
-5k old V15 NA cam
-New KYB GR2 front struts
-Used KYB GAJ rear shocks
-Used (red)poly torque rod bushings for new front bump stops
-23/21mm 240Turbo swaybars
-New timing belt, tensioner
-New rear cam cap, front cam seal, front main seal, intermediate shaft seal

I'm going to change the oil in about 500 miles or so(after only 2500 or so) on this Mobil M1 0w40. I tried this weight out without reading up more on it first, I was just being noobish and figuring that it is better all around, and many newer german cars use it, but I'm going to go back to 10w30 M1... Hopefully the valves will be quieter or get quiet quicker on cold start-up. I don't need any better protection than 10w30 anyway with the climates we get here.

Handling? Car seems much more willing to turn, although doesn't seem to have any more oversteer than it did...? So that's cool. The roll stiffness doesn't really FEEL like it's been improved that much, but I know it is... The car also feels like it might ride better over bumps, BUT, I do feel more of everything even though it isn't as harsh feeling over bumps and stuff. Or maybe I'm imagining it/forgetting what it was like before. But I think it does feel like I feel everything in the road, like I have the tires pumped WAY up again. I don't like that though because it makes the car want to rattle more... So it seems to rattle more, but absorbs bumps better. And it definitely controls body movement better, that's for sure. It'll work for now. With the little GT strut reinforcement plates I hope to lose a little oversteer and gain a little ride height in the front. So, maybe I'll have to get those before I get the alignment as well. Argh. So I guess I'll order some of those soon here, and I'll toss them in when I put the strut braces in(maybe I'll get the lower brace at the same time, damnit, I'll call that a christmas present, right?) and the torque rod bushings. THEN I can get it aligned to something along the lines of 1 deg. neg. camber, as much camber as it'll evenly allow at that setting, and zero toe.

Yup.

[klr142]

Sorry about the crappy pics... I wasn't paying attention to the fact that the camera was on the wrong settings... Oh well, here's what I've got.
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3858.sized.jpg
Just another shot of how low it is(well, was before the new shocks, which didn't seem to visibly raise it much)
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3859.sized.jpg
The new GR2 front struts with the old factory ones...
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3860.sized.jpg
ENEM V15 NA! w0000
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3862.sized.jpg
It flies!
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3863.sized.jpg
KYB GAJ's in the rear
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3866.sized.jpg
And, a picture of the panhard rod installed...

[PWRPUFF]

Looking good, Kyle. Still, the KYB's aren't supposed to work that well on lowered cars, so :???:

The e-fan will really help higher up in the revs.

HAHAHA. You really roll like that?
Yes I did. Hard to tell it's just an engine degreaser can cap, really. No longer own the Parabox, though.

-- Kane

[Tuff240]

.

[PWRPUFF]

Well he was going to install his custom Ohlins with remote reservoirs that are built exactly to the specifications of his car ...
:rofl:

-- Kane ... I know, I know, this is Kyle we're talking about. :badboy:

PS: granted, they at least work better than 14 year old OEM's, so.

[Tuff240]

.

[PWRPUFF]

Now you are beginning to see the light.
Sometimes we are restricted by budgets (or lack of) and have to make do with what we have available to us.
Nah, I know how it's like. In my instance, though, I would've waited until all the pieces come together first, then do it properly. Not do it partially, then have to redo it again shortly thereafter.

They will work until he has an extra $150 ...
It'll be a while. :badboy:

-- Kane ... though try and prove me wrong, Kyle! I'm giving ya until the next iPd swap meet ...

[klr142]

Well he was going to install his custom Ohlins with remote reservoirs that are built exactly to the specifications of his car, but he opted to go with the off the shelf KYB's because they are supposed to work so well on lowered cars. :roll:
Damn, who's this guy? He seems like an ASS! :-P

Lol, Kane, I know that on 140s, the KYBs are outside their operating range and don't work well on lowered cars, but I haven't really heard anything like that on 240s, although I can't imagine that not being the case, considering how low my car is... In any case, the car feels A LOT better how it is now, and for less than $100, it was more than well worth it for the shocks that I now have on the car.
Nah, I know how it's like. In my instance, though, I would've waited until all the pieces come together first, then do it properly. Not do it partially, then have to redo it again shortly thereafter.


It'll be a while. :badboy:

-- Kane ... though try and prove me wrong, Kyle! I'm giving ya until the next iPd swap meet ...
I couldn't wait. My car was so low, and I love to push the car so hard, and everyday on my drive to work I'm on the mountain roads, that the stock shocks with lowered suspension were no where near enough to keep me planted safely. I don't mind doing it again in a few months, if I even need to yet, because it isn't THAT hard to do it all when you're in a shop with a lift and air tools. :cool: Currently, the shocks are up to the task, we'll see how long they last, if they do indeed wear out. If they don't wear out, I might not want to get Billy's yet. If they wear out, then I'll do it, but in the meantime, I'd much rather get some other stuff taken care of... :twisted: Including a slow launch, due to some autotragic of a tranny. Which will in turn, give me better gas mileage. The lower braces(upper SHOULD be on their way, gotta PM that guy) and the strut tower reinforcement plates. And also of course the e-fan, and the airbox cutting(tonight probably) and the turbo exhaust, which will help the car run more efficiently at all rpm, especially up top. Then there's the stereo situation, the tint, the +Ti... So, if the shocks are still up to it by the next iPd swap meet, I will have no reason to change them, and I can get other stuff fixed.

I have a real job now though Kane, not in school, and have another little job on the side as well, I've got money to play with, kind of... Still paying off debt, but, I've got it nonetheless. :-P

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

Are you sure? Doesn't seem like it sometimes. GET BACK TO WORK!

[Tuff240]

.

[luke242ti]

Nice work Kyle. Quite the progress since you starting driving the car! Here I thought u didnt like 240s :-P

[klr142]

Nice work Kyle. Quite the progress since you starting driving the car! Here I thought u didnt like 240s :-P
That's because I had never driven a NICE one... Lol. It's changed me. I don't really think they look as good as a 140 does, BUT, the drive is nicer... Granted, I haven't driven a NICE 140 either, so... :)

[PWRPUFF]

Yep I'm sure. ;-)
:-(

(As a sidenote, Kyle and I have sorta known each other even before either of us were here on t-bricks, hence references go back to those days. I suppose it's awkward to anyone else, though. Back then, my 144 was still a daily driver, he was just learning about maintaining and repairing his 142, and I only had 3 Volvos, so that's saying something!)

-- Kane

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

Lol, Kane, no one is saying anything about you, Pat and I have lived together for almost 6 months now, so we've got some of our own references and ish-talking going on too. :-D

I played with my intake yesterday after work... I adjusted the kick-down cable to allow for full throttle, bent the tab that stops the throttle spool at idle and full throttle for a longer range, adjust linkage from throttle body to throttle spool, removed rear AMM screen, and cut out some of the front of the airbox. Now it pulls MUCH better up top and sounds great doing it! Definitely time for an exhaust to make it REALLY happy and even MORE fast and better sounding. Can't wait! I just need to pick it up from down in Albany...

BUT, before that, there are other things that I actually NEED to take care of. The car's alignment is OFF. Mainly the toe, and then the camber needs to be evened out, I'm going to go for -1 degree in the front, and is caster adjustable at all? Probably not... Before I can get it aligned though, I need to get the strut reinforcement plates and my strut tower bars! They should be arriving early next week, and I can get the reinforcement plates then too, and then FINALLY get an alignment. Currently the car hops a little bit, a quick bouncing, almost like the shocks are blown, but they're not, when taking hard turns at lower/medium speeds. With the strut tower bars and the alignment and reinforcement plates, the front of the car will be a little higher, and the suspension will effectively be a little a little stiffer, so we'll see how that pans out with the correct toe(zero).

I think after the exhaust, which follows the alignment, I'll be getting tint and gathering parts for the manual swap.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=57980

[Tuff240]

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[klr142]

In lamens terms...
Camber is how much the top of your tire leans if you are looking at it from the front or rear of your car. Think of an old VW Bug that is really low in the rear. It is adjustable, but limited.

Caster is not adjustable stock, or easily modifiable. That is how much your strut assembly leans for or aft if looking at the car from the side.


Sounds like it is bottoming out and skipping. You need to take me for a ride and show me as that is NOT good.
I know what camber is... :roll:

I really don't think it's bottoming out, this is after I get off the brakes,(thus the front lifts up a tad), and just go through the turn. It's similar to how my car "skips" when at full lock in reverse... One tire is trying to turn more than the other, and causing one of them to slip more than the other.

I just found a set of IPD sways at a junkyard... I think they're the 25/22 setup as they're on a wagon, but the front of the car was smashed HARD, and the front swaybar isn't quite where it's supposed to be, so I don't know if it's straight or not. Hopefully it IS.

[b4_ford]

I just found a set of IPD sways at a junkyard... I think they're the 25/23 setup as they're on a wagon, but the front of the car was smashed HARD, and the front swaybar isn't quite where it's supposed to be, so I don't know if it's straight or not. Hopefully it IS.

No, it isn't bent. The only thing that was trashed was driver's side mounting bracket. It was a pain in the ass to pull! I broke a serious effin sweat! I haven't measured yet but I think the rear is 23mm. I grabbed both of them for ya. Also got a manual and some guages that I think you wanted. Any tranny that he has is $75.00 if you pull it for the rest of the month. The bars were $50.00.

[Tuff240]

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[klr142]

You already pulled them???? Glad to hear it isn't bent... Lol, he better have given you that manual and guages for free... I think let him charge me too much for the correct tach... $20! There was also a fog light switch which I nabbed, some Virgo lug nuts that I put in the glovebox of the car that you pulled the sways off of, and then there was some other stuff there as well. Including some ok-ish black headrest inserts, but one of the tabs broke off I think when I pulled it off the seat, the calipers and maybe the rotors as well off of the 164, and a 16v engine... Looked like a very mildly touched yard indeed! The guy definitely wanted money for things though. I don't know how much I want to pull that tranny, and damnit, I forgot to check what year the car was! I was going to check that, but forgot. I want to know if it's LH2.4 or not. I wonder if the pedal assembly is in decent condition anymore, probably not... I called Ross and told him about the 164, it has some stuff that he'd like for his car...

[klr142]

If you know what it is, then why did you ask if it was adjustable?
I asked if CASTER was adjustable. Well, that's what I was supposed to type if I typed camber instead... I know what both are, I just didn't know if there was some sort of way of adjusting the caster on the car that I don't know about yet. Guess not...

EDIT: Damn, I did say Camber... Idiot... That's already "maxxed", lol. Fixed it.

[b4_ford]

You already pulled them???? Glad to hear it isn't bent... Lol, he better have given you that manual and guages for free... I think let him charge me too much for the correct tach... $20! There was also a fog light switch which I nabbed, some Virgo lug nuts that I put in the glovebox of the car that you pulled the sways off of, and then there was some other stuff there as well. Including some ok-ish black headrest inserts, but one of the tabs broke off I think when I pulled it off the seat, the calipers and maybe the rotors as well off of the 164, and a 16v engine... Looked like a very mildly touched yard indeed! The guy definitely wanted money for things though. I don't know how much I want to pull that tranny, and damnit, I forgot to check what year the car was! I was going to check that, but forgot. I want to know if it's LH2.4 or not. I wonder if the pedal assembly is in decent condition anymore, probably not... I called Ross and told him about the 164, it has some stuff that he'd like for his car...

Yeah, the only bent thing is my hand after my pry bar slipped. As I recall it is an '88. It has the newer style seatbelt assembly. Kane, do you know what year they started that? If you want to do a tranny pull I'm going to be getting a floor jack and a pair of stands soon. At least that yard has an asphalt surface instead of the usual mud, dirt, and gravel yards.

[Tuff240]

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[b4_ford]

That started in 87 iirc, along with the m47. ;-)

Better design, I think. I'm thinking of swapping out on my '86.

[Tuff240]

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[b4_ford]

It gives you an extra cubby hole if nothing else. I think you need the actual belt also though.

Yep, need the belts. The anchoring point on the newer style doesn't interfere with the armrest. Call me lame but I like having a cupholder...

[klr142]

Strut tower bars came in the mail today... Strut reinforcement plates were supposed to be ordered today, but I think someone, who works at the Vshop but with an Orange V, forgot to do so... Alignment coming soon! Oh, of note, the right front strut tower-firewall brace will be a hard fit. For some reason the bolt hole in the firewall doesn't want to line up easily with the strut brace, so we'll see how that turns out when we get it on a hoist.

I hope to put on a turbo exhaust this saturday, but reeferman's hiding, and I don't blame him. I almost want to just plop the money down for one from IPD instead of going down to Albany and getting a used turbo exhaust for free that's in decent condition(as far as I know anyway).

Torque rod bushings need to go in as well... And I need to pick up the 25/22 IPD bars I found in the yard and put them in as well.

And the stupid construction people need to hurry the F up and give me a proper road and driveway back. I hate scraping the damn ground!

[klr142]

Did the strut tower braces, strut tower reinforcement plates, oil/filter change(M1 10w30 and MANN 917), and lengthened my panhard rod one turn last night. Oh, and added awesome V Shop license plate frames... :) The car rides noticeably better now with the stiffer structure up front, awesome mod! Now, I just need to figure out why it didn't want to get as much negative camber at the right front with everything bolted on... :( We'll see what the alignment peoples can do, hopefully get 1 degree up front on both sides, that's all I want...

My mom needed a picture of me "at work", so I'm using this posed substitute of me working on nothing at the V Shop(instead of on work at my work, Eurocar)...
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3920.sized.jpg

And here's a pic of the braces installed. Will eventually paint the GT braces black to match... And the engine bay will be cleaned when it stops being freaking freezing outside.
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3915.sized.jpg

And, FWIW, I just started gathering parts for a +T... 90+ manifold! w00.

[klr142]

omg KLR, dad....

EDIT: (my dad posted that after I showed him the thread)

[klr142]

I'm tired. Quick update for now:

Tranny flush, IPD 25/22 sways, alignment, and 94whp and 106wtrq.

[klr142]

Dyno and alignment sheets:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3778.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3782.sized.jpg
Full size images here:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3778.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_3782.jpg

Plans are to stick a cone on the end of the AMM for now, with the eventual setup being a cone near the stock airbox location, boxed from the engine heat. Exhaust of some sort, and an E-Fan. m47... Yeah.

[240Psycho]

nice car, who would have thought two Kyles who both own 91 244s mines white/blue tho with one of them turbo thingys

[stylngle2003]

kyle, you definetly need something to help breathing up top....i think a well thought out 2.5" catback is just the ticket. try to get pat or peter to part with a b230 header also, that would make even more improvement.

i'm really surprised (well, that's not the right word) at how well that cam holds tq up high, and also holds hp past 5500! really a nice improvment over even my VX characteristics:
http://i.pbase.com/o4/45/322545/1/55010748.dynorunscopy.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/Kyle_Eisenbach_91_244_Volvo.jpg

notice your torque never gets as high as mine (auto?), but still manages to stay well above 100lb-ft from before the graph starts (i mean, i would imagine...) until right about 4950rpm, while mine dips down below 100lb-ft at around 4250rpm. Also, your horsepower, in addition to being 6hp higher than mine at peak, blows it's shape and duration out of the water. my horsepower is above 80 (aka 10/11ths of peak)from about 4250rpm until redline, peaking at about 5300rpm, while yours is above 80hp from 4100rpm-redline, but is also above 90hp from 4500rpm-5650rpm! that's just insane

must be really fun to drive also, can't wait to see how you love a manual in there

i think you're knocking on the door of at least 115hp no problem with the efan, exhuast setup, m47, and CAI

[klr142]

Kyle, lol, no joke! I'll be turbo too though, no worries. I've been talking to people about gathering more of my turbo stuff, and it just makes me want to do the +T sooner and sooner!!!!!!!!! ARGH! I was even considering doing the +T before the tranny swap... The only thing that is making me rethink that is the exhaust. Maybe I'll just get a 2.5 catback for my NA, and use that for my +T as well, but with a 3" dp and cat... :) That way I can continue with the NA tuning for a bit, and see where it all gets me before I do the +T.

Man, the fact that my pull doesn't really start until that late in the RPM is really throwing my perspective off... I was thinking the HP and TRQ REALLY dive off hardcore at the top. I really want to know how much the eFan, cone(not necessarily cold, but it's all good), exhaust, and tranny get me. I'd love to do them one at a time and dyno in between, but I don't really think I want to spend THAT much... :-D We'll see!

[stylngle2003]

What I should do, is make a graph of our two runs on top of each that has the same scaling... One with the trq values, and another one with the hp values. I don't have much time though, so I don't know if I'll get around to it. It'd be cool though.

send me the winpep file and i can mess with it if you'd like....carzrock at aol.com

[B20Paul]

Hi guys, have you got any specs on the V15 cam?

[klr142]

Hi guys, have you got any specs on the V15 cam?
Yeah, Fred put together a spreadsheet with some information on most of the available OHV Redblock cams. Here ya go Paul: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=48858&highlight=cam+table

I want something more aggressive when I go turbo... :) Granted I'll have a manual tranny then, so I don't have to worry about the lower rpm so much.

[klr142]

Not too much new on the car yet... I did some damage though... :( Destroyed the front suspension and right front wheel. Well, I can probably get the wheel repaired, but it's got a nice dent in it. More on that later when we tear into it, and pictures as well.

I'll be putting on new ball joints, strut mounts, motor mounts, tranny mount, poly control arm bushings, oil pan, different steering rack, control arms, and subframe(fukked them all up), got a couple of REAL Virgos to replace the IPD ones on the front for now, SS brake lines all around and GT-LMA brake fluid. I think I'll finally get around to installing that lower chassis brace as well...

As far as M47 swap goes, I'll be getting a stock pressure plate and disc with very low mileage on them, but I still don't think I'll be doing this anytime soon. Turbo addition will definitely be first. I'm getting an intercooler and the turbo this Sunday, and then I already paid for the computers, injectors, resistor pack, and a turbo fuel pump(don't think I need to use this, and probably won't until I have reason to do otherwise), so I'm just waiting for them to be shipped. Even once I have all this, I won't get around to doing it because I don't have an exhaust, and I want an exhaust. A good one. From the start. :)

Peace!

[b4_ford]

I want to see pics of the damage! Did you have a camera handy right after the, err, incident? BTW, spousal unit is beginning to ask about when she can have the lawn back! I'll hold her off for awhile longer but we'll need to find a home for the blue (or is it green?) box sooner or later. Sounds like you're getting some in depth suspension knowledge...

[stylngle2003]

Turbo addition will definitely be first. I'm getting an intercooler and the turbo this Sunday, and then I already paid for the computers, injectors, resistor pack, and a turbo fuel pump(don't think I need to use this, and probably won't until I have reason to do otherwise), so I'm just waiting for them to be shipped. Even once I have all this, I won't get around to doing it because I don't have an exhaust, and I want an exhaust. A good one. From the start. :)

Peace!

haha, kyle, that's one of my reasons for not having a completed +T yet :rofl:!

sucks to hear about the destruction...now's your chance to make it better than it was before, i'm sure it will come out just fine.

also, you might wanna think about doing a single walbro in tank 255LPH high pressure pump, and maybe selling the turbo pump instead. they are usually under $100 from places online and pretty easy to install also. gives you some headroom when you start to turn the wick up ;-)

[klr142]

Yeah, I've given it some light thought, but I'm not sure... I'll be hanging around lower boost levels(well, low enough, 8-12psi), starting at the lower levels and working my way up. We'll see how long it's been before I get an exhaust, and how much other money I have... Lol.

[DurableSwedish]

hurray! V15 ftw! :-D Glad that thing is working out for you...my K gives better powerband, but n/a ftl :-/

[klr142]

hurray! V15 ftw! :-D Glad that thing is working out for me...my K gives better powerband, but n/a ftl :-/
I don't get it, how's that working out for you? My V15's wayyyy better than your K... For an auto anyway, not sure about top power so much, I haven't seen any dyno sheets with one installed. :-P

Anywho, I got my 240 style intercooler and my 13C yesterday... 2.4T computers, 804 greentops, resistor pack, 2.4 flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, and turbo fuel pump should be in the mail from the east coast any day now... Intercooler pipes will be on their way as well soon.

Then, it'll be the multiple month wait for some real, turbo back 3" mandrel bent exhaust... In the meantime I'll have to get the manifold and turbo ported, gotta make the most of the little thing!

Also, I might be swapping over to some Multi-x Bertone wheels... Put them up next to my car on Saturday, and it was SICK looking!

I'm waiting on my tax return before I start ordering the parts for my front end rebuild... And then also, my car's blowing the power window fuse randomly...!?

[klr142]

So I got my federal tax return... Ordered some of the stuff needed for the front end fix. Just waiting on someone to pay me for my last ebay auction before I order some poly control arm bushings from Dale. SS brake lines should be at the V Shop already I think... I need to pick up a plastic wheel well liner for the right front as well.

Now, I need to decide if I want to tap a nice deep hole in the block or weld a bung onto the replacement oil pan, while it's off, for the turbo oil drain...

[klr142]

My poor baby wants an oil change... It's been over 5k now... Mobil 1 and Mann though, so I'm not tooo worried. Also, it's been leaking a bit, and I burned a bit(when I did Seafoam again recently), so I've added a quart.

Anywho, just transfered some money to my paypal account so I can send money to the crank scraper guy and Dale... Strut mounts, oil pan gasket and some brake lines for my 142 have arrived. Just need to tell my boss to order the remaining things and he should be able to have them within the day I think... Still need to go to the shop and clean up/disassemble the "new" suspension though.

Here's the news... I swapped over to a 25mm rear bar from my 22mm bar... It feels sooooo much better. More neutral, and more planted. The rear end used to roll a good bit more, felt less stable... Now, when going around those tight hairpins in the hills and stuff, like 15mph ones, it barely pics up the inside rear tire! Not quite what I was expecting, but boy do I like it. :-D

[klr142]

I'm supposed to have pictures right now, but someone's slacking on the emailing of them to me...

Anywho, not toooooo much going on over here. Yesterday I washed it and took some pictures. A few weeks ago I washed it and took pics as well, but then I accidentally deleted the pictures before I uploaded them!!! Damnit. I still don't have any clean, lowered pictures yet. Oh well, these upcoming ones will be well worth the wait.

While cleaning the car, I found that I suffer from some oxidation. I'm not sure if I'm going to worry about it and wax/polish it, or just wait until I get it buffed and de-striped and de-badged. If I get it debadged. Still not decided on that yet.

New news:
I cut off the rear muffler a couple weekends ago after hearing Jordan's(valvesprung) 245 with the same setup. It sounded damn sweet, although a bit loud. So, anyway, I did it, and am VERY pleased with it. It's definitely loud, but it's not going to get me pulled over, and it doesn't resonate too annoyingly. I put a nice and dirt cheap flex pipe on it that exits right behind the pass. side mudflap. You can see it in the pictures that'll be coming. I should paint it flat/matte black though so it blends in more and doesn't rust too bad. I like the performance, sound, and mileage increase I've gotten from it.

Poly control arm bushings, torque rod bushings, strut mounts, ball joints, tie rod end, replacement rack and subframe, replacement oil pan with O2 bung welded in for turbo oil return, motor and tranny mounts, 2 coil cut front springs, 2 coil cut wagon rear springs, and a crank scraper going in next weekend(not this one, but the next). Then, I'm going to drag race it. And have a sh!tload of fun.

When I drag race it I'm planning on doing tons of runs, trying out different things to see what's fastest, and just to have some things to compare and post up for everyone to learn from.

BTW, that rear 25mm swaybar? OMG I love it soooo much. If my car handles like this, with maaaaad toe in, too low front suspension with the geometry all thrown off, 185/70 oooooold crappy tires, bent subframe, old bushings, I can't IMAGINE what it's going to be like with proper tires, and all the other new stuff. Seriously. It's NUTS!!!

I LOVE IT!!!

[klr142]

PICTURES!

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=68367

[Tuff240]

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[klr142]

I hope it drives better after the front end is straightened out and has a new rack in it because it sure is a hooptie rice mobile right now. :barf:
Fawk man. Just because it IS doesn't mean you have to TELL everyone. Jeez. It's a temp exhaust, it was free, and it improved my gas mileage, so I'll let it go until my other "muffler" and full exhaust goes on. The tethy's will remove most of it's ricer status as well(currently has sh!tty flat black steelies while my suspension's F'd up). We'll see how much of a ricer it is when we go to the track. (not that it'll be fast, but something decent is something decent)

[klr142]

Progress seen here:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=68951

[klr142]

Glad that's over with. Front suspension/steering/brakes overhaul:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=778236&postcount=52

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_4513.sized.jpg

[Addicted242Boost]

Phat front end work, looking good!

[DurableSwedish]

We'll see how much of a ricer it is when we go to the track.
:rofl: :rofl: loud, big wheels, slow...yep pretty much a ricer :-D

[klr142]

:rofl: :rofl: loud, big wheels, slow...yep pretty much a ricer :-DWell, at least I don't have stupid graphics on it, or any fake aero modifications. That pretty much makes me not a ricer, :-p. Just not fast... And it's not like you're faster than me...

Thanks Addicted!

[klr142]

Drag day write up: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=781897&postcount=70

Best run:
RT: .125
60': 2.693
330: 7.444
1/8: 11.356 @ 62.78 mph
1000: 14.752
1/4: 17.769 @ 76.54

[Renny_D]

Drag day write up: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=781897&postcount=70

Best run:
RT: .125
60': 2.693
330: 7.444
1/8: 11.356 @ 62.78 mph
1000: 14.752
1/4: 17.769 @ 76.54


+T now... ;-)

then do the other stuff.

get the show and go going. We need more cars in the 14s.


Renny

[klr142]

Lol. But that costs more money! I just need an e-fan, but going that route I'd need a custom downpipe, and a full exhaust...(3" all the way baby!) So we're looking at maybe $15-$50 vs $300-500... Right now I'm trying not to spend ANYTHING until I pay off 1600 on my credit card(which still leaves me with another 1000 on it...) and I make hardly an extra 3-500 a month. I have some stuff to sell, so that'll help, but still. Also, cancelling my insurance on the car and just riding a motorcycle might help too. Speaking of which, I've been meaning to make some calls to the dealers...

[klr142]

It's been a while, eh? I bought a motorcycle, got a flat, and am having to spend more money on it. I didn't cancel car insurance, because I need a car too, obviously. Anywho, not much new with the car... Tried out a cone filter and taking off the AC/PS belts at the drags, but didn't give the car enough time to learn the filter, and sucked hardcore.

That'll be it for drags with this car until it's turbo though, don't feel like wasting any more money. But, here's the thing, I will NOT be turboing it until probably next spring at the earliest. I want to get rid of some of the debt that I'm in.

I did get an alignment though... And learned to my dismay, that the subframe does not sit centered in the car, it's off to the passenger side a bit... Either partially because of the frame being a little cockeyed, and/or the subframe not being centered, which doesn't make too much sense. When I brought it in, I had about -.6 camber on the driver's side, and -1.3 on the passenger side! Now I'm at about -.6 on both sides... I really would've liked an even -1 on both sides though, damnit!

I need to update the first post with the car's current "spec" list and pictures. I also actually want to replace the lower cherry brace with some custom aluminum bracing that I want to make for it, but who knows when I'll get around to that.

Also, I've decided that this car is not going to get any further cosmetic mods, other than tint, new taillights, and a buffing after removing the pinstriping. It'll remain stock, and relatively low key. Oh, another thing I did was remove the amber reflectors in the front corners, and replace the parking lights with clear bulbs, but left the turn signal bulbs ambers.

[klr142]

Poly torque rod bushings are in, and DAMN does it feel a lot better!!! And my old ones weren't even split yet!!! Definitly a very highly thought of mod for ANYONE in my book. I love them!

[klr142]

Bump to the first page... Edited the first post to include basically everything done to the car, along with pictures...

[240Psycho]

Poly torque rod bushings are in, and DAMN does it feel a lot better!!! And my old ones weren't even split yet!!! Definitly a very highly thought of mod for ANYONE in my book. I love them!

DOESNT IT! Love looking at pictures of your car. i love haw the car stops with them in.

All you need is turbo so your car can be broken like mine!!!

[klr142]

DOESNT IT! Love looking at pictures of your car. i love haw the car stops with them in.

All you need is turbo so your car can be broken like mine!!!
No brokenness! Only fixxedness! I'll be getting the AC converted and working sometime in the next couple of months... Might toss in some stiffer, cut wagon springs in the rear too. But, the car's for sale still...

[VolvoPunch]

I am planing on doing an entire suspension, steering and brake over haul as well and just wanted to know how you cleaned off your strut housing and other components. Also what was the total cots of all the replaced parts. Thanks and sweat car man

[klr142]

Basically we threw stuff in the parts washer to get it warmed up and get the dirt off, then used a plastic knife to scrape off as much of the undercoating as possible, while warm. Then used laquer thinner and carb/brake cleaner to finish getting the stuff off. Major pain in the ass, major mess. Price wise, I don't know if anything I got will compare to what you'll be doing.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=68951

[VolvoPunch]

What brand did you use for the ball join, tie rod ends? Also do your 17" Volvo wheels rub?

[stylngle2003]

What brand did you use for the ball join, tie rod ends? Also do your 17" Volvo wheels rub?

use oem (moog, trw, etc) and you won't be disappointed

i don't think kyle has mentioned anything about rubbing

[VolvoPunch]

Where is the cheapest place to buy moog and trw parts?

[klr142]

If I were buying stuff online, I'd get as much as I could from Taylorautomotive.com, they have some of the best prices. There's another place with sometimes even cheaper prices, but I can't think of it right now.

I used mostly Meyle parts, but moog and TRW are also ones I'd consider. Actually, I think some of my stuff was Moog as well...

Regarding the wheels, I assume you haven't actually read this thread? They do rub, but only because the tires are too large, and my suspension drastically lowered and not stiff enough for how low it is. I also have an adjustable panhard rod to help as much as possible in the back. The rubbing isn't bad enough to stop me from driving the piss out of it when opportunities present themselves. For the most part. I try to stay away from big bumps at high speeds though.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, there's about 30 minutes worth of heavy plastic mallet "work" on the rear fender lips...

[VolvoPunch]

Are you sure www.taylorautomotive.com is the right site? Because it does not seem to be working correctly. Yes your correct in your assumption that i have not read though all the posts but i will put that on my list of things to read. I can't think of any thing else to ask you right now but i am sure i will come up with something soon. Thanks for the info.

[klr142]

You're right... It seems their site is down or something. Try http://www.thepartsbin.com/ and other places. FCPGroton, etc. If you have further questions, please try to ask them in a PM or make another thread for them. I kind of wanted to keep this thread just for my car's information. Less clutter.

[klr142]

Just in case you weren't already aware: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=83265

[HPVolvo240]

Nice ride

[klr142]

Thanks man!

[klr142]

This car's going to be popping back into DD mode pretty soon! YAY!!!

B cam'll go in, some cut wagon rear springs, cut GT springs up front, and maybe some smaller sway bars...

[klr142]

The A cam was a nice improvement in low end torque, but midrange and top end is lacking compared to the V15. I actually got better gas mileage on the highway with the V15! My plans are below to pick up some of the low end torque that I'll be giving up by going back to the V15...

The reason I went with the A cam over the B cam, is that it would be more turbo and DD friendly than the B cam. This car is not going to be turbocharged for at least a couple years. And, FWIW, I drove a B cam equipped LH2.2 version of my car, and came away convinced that the A does indeed have a slightly stronger low end, and a slightly weaker top end. Both have decent midranges, with the B being slightly stronger there as well.


Swapped in an A cam, took it to the drags last weekend, might be swapping the V15 back in later today or tomorrow... I have an adjustable cam gear on the way to wake it up a tad on the low end, and I need to ground a couple of pins coming out of the ignition computer to get some advanced ignition timing as well. Other than that, nothing's new on it really, and there won't be too much, aside from swapping rear springs for some cut wagon springs(I wish I had overloads...) and putting some Billy HD's on it back there as well. I have some GT front springs and some HDs for the front, but those will wait for another weekend sometime this summer. :) After that, it's just going to be getting driven for the most part, getting the AC converted, maybe getting tint towards the end of the summer. Otherwise, I want to pay off some debt before I go any further. Unless I find somewhere that'll do up a 2.5" exhaust for cheap, with mufflers of my choice, but that's highly doubtful. Oh, and of course, I'll be doing some more drag racing throughout the summer... :) There's a long list of things I want to do, but those'll be the sum of them. Oh, and my rear SS brake lines will finally be going on this weekend too(fronts are already on), and I will eventually get new PBR Ultimate pads all around sometime later this summer as well. :cheers:

[stylngle2003]

cool man! can't wait to see how all the power mods turn out...more timing and a 2.5" should wake up the top end nicely

[klr142]

And low end... :)

As for last night and today, I settled for some wagon rear springs, rear bilstein HDs, a MUCH needed car wash(pictures coming in the next day or so), and some exploring of the ignition/fuel computers and how I'm going to attack the ignition advance project. I'm going to go look right now for the turbo fuel computer in the garage, and toss it in in a few minutes. Might I say though, the bilsteins and 2.5(+on one side) coils cut from wagon springs(vs 2 coils cut from the stockers) feels freaking GREAT. No more bottoming out back there! I actually left it a tad higher up than it was with the original springs, almost a 1/4 of an inch higher on the driver's side, and about an 1/8th higher on the passenger side. The passenger side of the car is still about a 1/8th or so higher than the driver's side, with no driver. I'm not to worried about it though because it was a bigger gap between the two with the original cut springs, and the front's more even than it was previously as well. Next route(after cut GT springs and HDs up front) will be coil overs with custom rates and correction for the angles up front. That won't happen for a gooooood few years, if ever. :)

And yeah, didn't get around to swapping the V15 back in yet, because I left it at home! Oops! Last night was freaking awesome though, it was amazing just working away in the shop until 6AM... It was literally freezing outside... I had my car heat the shop for a bit before I started working in it. It was nuts though, time was just flying by and so much stuff was getting done!!! :-D

[klr142]

Me likey:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/Kyles-Photo-Shoot/IMG_0251.sized.jpg

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/klrclean244

More pictures going in there soon after I go and get my camera out of my car and load them up. Those first 14 are from Aaron's camera(evolwun on OVT).

[stylngle2003]

that's sexy as hell!

i could totally see it rocking a group A spoiler and carbon hood

[klr142]

Oooh, you're kind of right... But, I think I'll have to pass. For now anyway. If this thing ever evolves into something somewhat insane(there's a good chance it may), I could see a carbon hood in its future. The group A wing? Not as sure about that, but who knows.

[stylngle2003]

it just kinda looks like it has a wing on it in the picture above, but i know what you mean

and besides, it would only look cool if it was raw carbon and you had that look going with the rest of the car, I think

[klr142]

Yeah, it does kind of look like it has one, and I guess that's why it looks like it could be a good fit for the car, lol. And, by the time I have a carbon hood, you better believe there'll be more carbon on it, and there will be much less chrome, and the windows will be darker... :) I don't think I'll be getting the tint this year, gotta get a new windshield first... I'd rather just get the suspension and other stuff I already have on their way/lying around done for this year. Along with cleaning up some misc. stuff, like the airbag contact reel getting replaced, putting in some new bulbs in some of the switches(AC switch, one seat heater switch, and the rear foglight switch), and converting the AC to 134. I need to pull the radiator out and blow out the debris that's blocking it(along with the ac condensor) and flush the cooling system. Oh, and rear brakes will probably be "serviced" sometime this year as well.

[240Psycho]

im glad you didnt sell the car. you do it justice, keep up the sextastic work. Kyle

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

I didn't bother with that(engine compartment, didn't mean to have it on display, I was just heating the shop...), but yes, I agree... :)

I can't wait for next year when I get some slightly smaller tires on it... And new wheel spacers, hub centric style, of not 25mm thicknesses... :cool:

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

Thank you thank you thank you thank you Pat!!!!!!!!

[klr142]

Some news... The A cam isn't that bad up top in reality... While doing the ignition timing mod(now 3 deg. advanced), I noticed that my spark pattern was a bit F'd up... After only ~15,000 miles, my cap and rotor were spewing extra sparks while skipping others...? New plugs in(bp6es instead of bpr6es, but I think I should've gone with 7s), coolant flush, Mobil 1 15-50, fuel filter...

Car feels much better up top now, even if my Aurora spark plug wires are not actually connected. Well, one is, but the other three have all pulled apart. F'n pathetic. I'm going to contact them and request some money back, or at the very least new wires. I don't even want to run these anymore though because of it.

It was falling pretty much flat on it's face above 5000, now it continues to pull, much more like the V15... Can't wait to get it back on the track! Dyno should be next week sometime, possibly.

[Turbo'd 24erty4er]

I put an A cam in my brother's 1990 245 - could you please give some more information the advanced timing mod ? Does it involve a computer swap? Trying to squeeze a little more performance so every bit helps. By the way, one of the nicest late model 240's I have seen!

[klr142]

Why thank you! I'll be up there later this year for the PNW meet again if you'd like to see it in person...

See this for the second part of advanced ignition timing for LH2.4 equipped cars. I think it has a link to the first part as well.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=98591

[klr142]

Dyno round two:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=1201111

Car needs an exhaust, new spark plug wires, and an E-fan bad. Then it's on to the air conditioning and driveshaft support+bearing. Maybe differential's pinion seal and some synthetic fluid back there too. Front suspension isn't done yet, but the springs should be getting powdercoated this week I hope, and they'll go in with the front bilsteins next week or so. Gotta toss the rear SS lines on too sooner or later.

[klr142]

Dale's cam gear is in and set to 2 degrees advanced, a new 88C thermostat is in to replace the 71C one I toyed with for a week, and my coil is secured. My ignition issue seems to be gone for the most part, and the car now feels better down low, and the same up top, sweetness!!!

Front springs are getting bead blasted, and should be installed along with the Bilstein HDs up front hopefully by the end of next week's weekend. w00000!

The to do list is narrowing down... :) 16V injectors will be getting cleaned/flowed next month and tossed in. I'm going to send John a PM right now about getting me some new red spark plug wires. :nod:

[klr142]

Re-arranged and updated the first post.

[rclark]

read the whole thread; love this car. subscribed. :-D

[klr142]

:) Thanks man!

I might as well mention that my best 60' is 2.531(vs. mid-2.6 with V15 and shorter tires) with the big tires and a burnout to heat them/one of them up. Best 1/4 is 17.802. With smaller tires I'll be faster than ever. But before I go to the track again, I want to get a few more things done to the car, so it'll probably not be until late this summer before I race the car again. The bike'll make it out to PIR though sooner... :)

[DurableSwedish]

have you looked at an 850 wing on the 86+ trunk? I've seen some sweedes with that and it looked pretty nice. (I'll race you in my n/a wagon when it's "finished" in a couple months :-P )

[klr142]

I haven't... I'm not about to do any body modifications to this car anytime soon though. Except for maybe cut out some of the tray underneath the rear bumper maybe for the sake of aerodynamics.(edit: not...)

[klr142]

Driveshaft support bearing/mount, differential seal and gasket, and synthetic rear end fluid getting done this week. I took out the timing mod because I wasn't noticing any difference with the way I had it(may not have had a good ground) and I want to use lower octane gas. I'm really tempted to pull the head and put on a thinner MLS headgasket... Eeek. If i do that I want to clean up the combustion chamber. Eeeek. :-P Whatever, not right now! Must restrain!!!

Well, I didn't restrain quite enough. A recent selling spree has left me with a credit card balance that is much lower than it has been in a long time, sooo... I'm naughty. Bought some PBR Ultimates for the rear, Satisfied GS6 pads for the front(should hold up to the track better, if I ever get out there), and front Brembo replacement rotors(ON SALE FOR $21!!!!!) at Tire rack... I'll get some rear rotors from work, and then I'll finally be ready to toss on my SS rear brake lines and have a completely transformed braking system. Right now I think it has some cheapass lifetime pads on it, that may be glazed. I haven't overheated them yet though, well, one time I came close, but that's it.

Then there's the Jegs order... 2.5" Magnaflow/carsound cat, 2.5" Dynomax race bullet muffler, and a Magnaflow 2.5" 4x9" oval. That'll be going in with mandrel bent piping, a lengthened downpipe with a gasket matched inlet, and an upper manifold section that's also gasket matched(on both ends).

I'll also be looking into relocating my horns for more airflow to the radiator, and maybe modifying the center support brace up there for more airflow as well.

Whitetop injectors should be in the mail tomorrow for getting cleaned/flowed. And then next on the list will be AC fixation! Damnit, who told me to spend all this money.

[sk8daysaweek]

Damnit, who told me to spend all this money.

I think you were getting antsy due to my 2 motor simultaneous buildup... But probably not. Thanks for helping out man, if you need an extra hand let me know. :-P

[klr142]

Exhaust video: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=106577

I'll get pictures of it when it's completed.

[klr142]

More pictures of the further finished exhaust in its own gallery. Still more pictures on my cell phone, I'll get around to them some time.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/klr240exhaust

[klr142]

Re: Exhaust,
I'm beginning to think I should've gone with a 4" round muffler instead of the bullet, or maybe something a little larger than just a 4x9" standard length main muffler. It's perfectly fine, but just a tad quieter would be preferred. I'm wondering if there are any resonated tips out there that might fit the bill... I haven't seen much in the way of 2.5"ID tips though...

Oh, one more thing, that's actually somewhat annoying... I did install a gasket, and it seals fine, but it still sounds like it has an exhaust leak. I'm pretty sure it doesn't(haven't confirmed yet) though, and it might be because of the thin walled pipe used for the downpipe extension? Or at least that's the only reason I can come up with. Or maybe my porting of the stuff has thinned the walls of the downpipe and/or manifold so much at the flanges that they transfer more sound. I'll have to take a closer look. It's just that when I'm at low speeds/low throttle openings/idling there's a lot of exhaust leak sound that comes from the downpipe area, and I hear it more than the actual exhaust in those situations.

That being said, between the exhaust, cleaned 16v injectors(tossed them in last week without the FPR), and (possibly) the 3 deg. advance mod, I managed a best ever 25.67mpg. Previous best 4 have been 24.0, 24.0, 23.2 and one other 23. So that was cool. I can't wait to get a 2.5bar fpr on there, hopefully tomorrow or monday at the latest. I might also look into doing some aero mods underneath. I really really need to get at LEAST my Bilsteins installed up front, if not both them and the GT springs before Friday... Blah.

[Gregerivn]

Re: Exhaust,
I'm beginning to think I should've gone with a 4" round muffler instead of the bullet, or maybe something a little larger than just a 4x9" standard length main muffler. It's perfectly fine, but just a tad quieter would be preferred. I'm wondering if there are any resonated tips out there that might fit the bill... I haven't seen much in the way of 2.5"ID tips though...

Oh, one more thing, that's actually somewhat annoying... I did install a gasket, and it seals fine, but it still sounds like it has an exhaust leak. I'm pretty sure it doesn't(haven't confirmed yet) though, and it might be because of the thin walled pipe used for the downpipe extension? Or at least that's the only reason I can come up with. Or maybe my porting of the stuff has thinned the walls of the downpipe and/or manifold so much at the flanges that they transfer more sound. I'll have to take a closer look. It's just that when I'm at low speeds/low throttle openings/idling there's a lot of exhaust leak sound that comes from the downpipe area, and I hear it more than the actual exhaust in those situations.

That being said, between the exhaust, cleaned 16v injectors(tossed them in last week without the FPR), and (possibly) the 3 deg. advance mod, I managed a best ever 25.67mpg. Previous best 4 have been 24.0, 24.0, 23.2 and one other 23. So that was cool. I can't wait to get a 2.5bar fpr on there, hopefully tomorrow or monday at the latest. I might also look into doing some aero mods underneath. I really really need to get at LEAST my Bilsteins installed up front, if not both them and the GT springs before Friday... Blah.
Thats great that you are getting that good of mileage on the car. Is this a new downpipe that is making all the noise. Maybe the new quiet exhaust is making it possible to hear a pre-existing leek? PS time slips should be up soon

[klr142]

Nah, it's not a quiet exhaust, it was quiet before and I still heard this noise actually. But that downpipe had a visible crack in it that was leaking that I assumed the sound was coming from. The sound is now even a bit louder with the new exhaust, I'll have to take a closer look tomorrow.

The mileage could be better, but it's not a manual or a wagon, so I guess it's not bad. I mean, I KNOW it's not bad compared to what I've gotten on this car before... :) w00h00!

[klr142]

WOAH! It was freaking QUICK just now. It's still learning the 2.5bar FPR, but man, it's going to be good, better gas mileage, and MORE POWER!!! It feels GREAT. I'm stoked! Now to get those springs and HDs installed up front... I bought some stuff so I can start doing it at home tomorrow instead of trying to find somewhere else with stuff to do it. KICKASS!

[klr142]

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/0806071716_G.sized.jpg

HDs are installed, I'm not bothering with the springs. At least not for now. Getting the HDs in up front was a big enough PITA of sorts(see the picture above for one reason, man did that feel wrong). The car feels great compared to the KYBs... :oogle: It wants a 23 or 22mm rear swaybar though... Anyone have one for trade with a 25mm one?

Oh, and I found my exhaust leak noise... The downpipe is split open. *sigh* All that work on something that's broken. I'll be on the lookout for a replacement I guess. I wish I had seen that though, damnit!

[TurboBrickMan]

I have my turbo wagon swaybar laying around here somewhere...

[klr142]

Simon dropped one off at my work unannounced today, w000! It's going on tomorrow and I'll be ALL SET! Except for improving the aerodynamics of a brick, but hey, we can't have everything now can we.

[klr142]

Well, I got a new left front turn signal lense, so that's good news, I still need to locate a left front headlight though.(Both were damaged on a rocky logging trail in Canada that I wasn't planning on being on)

On another not so happy note, I noticed some new body damage on my car today... There's an outward dent or two on the right rear 1/4 panel from junk in the trunk flying around. Very likely from all the stuff I had in there on my way up to Canada. NOT COOL!!! I need to look into getting dents repaired, and if it can be done without paint fixing... I doubt it though, they're all small issues(trunk lid has a few, and some on the left front fender, a couple little dings on the right rear door), but still.

As far as plans for the car go, I'm putting the 25mm rear sway back on, in anticipation of some stiffer front springs. Like 200+lb front springs. After that, the car should be pretty balanced, but I'll probably try and get some Konis(either red or yellow) for the rear of the car, as I'm not satisfied with the stiffness of the rear Bilstein HDs. With the stiffer front springs, it'll be nice to stiffen up the rear a bit more too.

I also can't wait to get a good header pipe on there so the car leans out, gets better gas mileage, and makes more power. The exhaust leaks there, before the O2 sensor, and throws off the reading. I assume.

[klr142]

Car had a birthday on the way up to Canada a month ago. 1/8th of the way there...
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/0810071025_G.sized.jpg

It's currently rolling on Rikens and has no inside wheel traction what so freaking ever if I try to turn and accelerate at the same time. I'm looking for a 21mm rear bar, as I'm not going to get around to making the front stiffer any time soon, and a 21 rear bar is cheaper and easier.

Someone forgot to add an inch or two to the outside of these wheels... Bastards...
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/0913071855_G.sized.jpg

I also re-hooked up the timing advance mod, and tossed in some premium gas with a little bit of octane booster as well to make sure it doesn't detonate... It's pulling great right now, and hopefully I can put down some new best 1/4 times tomorrow night. Assuming it isn't raining. :roll:

[GTJordan]

Looks good Kyle. My pops was saying you had the nicest 240 he had seen in a very long time (at the 06 meet)

Thanks again for driving the parts up! Keep up the good work with the two fo fo

Jordan

[klr142]

Thanks! So you managed to get everything, that's good to hear. :)

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

I'm not sure if the LSD would solve things, or just make me tail happy... But yeah, I want a T5 in there before anything else. Turbo is the last thing this'll get. Ok, maybe not the last, but it's way up there.

[klr142]

I can't drive around in the wet with these s**t tires with a 25mm rear bar and cut wagon springs. It's dangerous. Even slowing down is dangerous, I can't accellerate for s**t. I need to corner weight my car and cut the springs some more to balance it out a bit, haha. A limited slip differential will only help so much(not much). Much better tires'll help too, but it still won't be enough.

On another note, I had the thought pop into my head to sell this car again... I couldn't figure out a way to keep it in my life with the projects I want, but now I have it figured out, and it can stay forever! It'll eventually morph into a fast(tuuuuurbo), cool car for weekend fun and teasing other people with. Then I'll have a 142 race car, and a 145 DD. Sweetness.

[sk8daysaweek]

On another note, I had the thought pop into my head to sell this car again... I couldn't figure out a way to keep it in my life with the projects I want, but now I have it figured out, and it can stay forever! It'll eventually morph into a fast(tuuuuurbo), cool car for weekend fun and teasing other people with. Then I'll have a 142 race car, and a 145 DD. Sweetness.

:oogle:
A. Everyone who loves volvos is jealous of this car...
B. Turbo + The Patented Kyle perfection = one badass car
C. Your ratio above is perfect! one240:two140's

also, after riding in this thing, I gotta say, compared to all other volvos I've ever ridden in, this has to be one of the cleanest and most unexpectedly fast ones ever. Throw some widened steelies with hubcaps on em' and you'll have the ultimate sleeper. :nod:

Keep it up!

[klr142]

Haha, why thank you man! I don't know about the steelies though... And I freaking wish the car's speed would make an appearance when we go to the strip on the 7th...

[sk8daysaweek]

Oh it will. You just gotta throw an e-fan on it, and you'll do fine. Cool weather = faster times. I only wish I could run the wagon by then.... :roll:

[klr142]

But an e-fan costs money... And I'm already spending money this month, blah. I might give in though. Or see if I can borrow one temporarily.

[sk8daysaweek]

If I don't run, you can borrow mine.... :-P

[klr142]

So... The car currently has no rear sway bar, no bracing up or down up front... Handles surprisingly well. I'm not overwelmed with understeer as expected. I still pick up the inside rear tire, but not as much. I'm probably going to toss on a stock sized rear swaybar(16mm, maybe 19) and call it good for now until I get around to installing some stiffer springs up front. I will be reinstalling the front bracing, or at least the GT firewall braces and then I'll make some custom alloy lower braces to reduce weight. Everything's off right now in anticipation of the drags on Sunday. I still don't have **** for traction though, off the line the right rear lights up, and once it shifts into second it lights up again(in the wet, :-P). We'll see if disconnecting the front swaybar will help out with that at all.

Currently doing some research about new tires for the Tethys, I want them back on, NOW!

Jason, can I borrow your e-fan and your rear tires? Please???

[NChoy]

I need to look into getting dents repaired, and if it can be done without paint fixing...

Paintless dent removal... my neighbor Jason. Real cheap and quick. He can do it in my driveway (or his, two doors down). He's buffing out the red 142 as I type this, and will soon thereafter press out all the dings/dents.

[klr142]

Yeah, I stopped by a place and got a quote for $100 a panel... I have way too many panels for that, lol. And there are spots that are from the inside of the trunk, and the paint's f'd on those... :-\

I can't wait to see your car!!!!! And drive it. I need to see what it feels like.

And I've decided that General Exclaim UHP 215/45-17s are the next set of tires for the Tethys. Can't wait to get them mounted up with some 32/38 adapters from Dale...

[stylngle2003]

kyle, for drag traction, try a big rear bar and no front bar

[klr142]

But big bars weigh a lot... :-P Haha. I'll see if I can have someone bring a stock sized rear bar. I'm going to at least disconnect the front bar, not sure if I'll remove it all the way. I guess I might as well with how far I'm going with other stuff... :)

[Redwood Chair]

But big bars weigh a lot... :-P Haha. I'll see if I can have someone bring a stock sized rear bar. I'm going to at least disconnect the front bar, not sure if I'll remove it all the way. I guess I might as well with how far I'm going with other stuff... :)

Fill the tires with Helium.

[boosted]

Your 244 is beautiful.. i wish my front suspension could look like that...

[klr142]

Thanks man! It my front suspension doesn't look nearly that nice right now, but that's mainly because it's covered with dust and a little bit of oil seeping from my rear main and oil pan... Blah.

[crandandall]

Damn man, you've been busy. Your car looks awesome on the riken's, too bad they're too skinny. Lookin great as expected, keep it up.

PS, let me know if you want to unload those rear bilsteins, my car is in need.

[klr142]

Fo sho man! I wish they were 16x7.5s and shiny...

Thanks!

[mblue240]

What's with the black wheels? Are they loaners while you get new tires?

[klr142]

Well, they're not loaners as I own them, but they are temporary while I gather funds for tires and new(thicker and hubcentric) spacers. You interested? Or did you already get some Virgos?

[klr142]

I adjusted the rear panhard rod tonight, one turn, I might want to go with two, but it isn't hard to do so I'll start with one. I think it might partially be one of the multiple reasons for my right rear tire wanting to spin so much, and unload so easily coming out of turns. It'll also look like my left rear tire isn't so far inside the wheel well, because it won't be. I didn't realize it was as far off as it was.

I'm going to sell off my upper strut-strut brace, and my lower cherry brace. I'm keeping the GT strut braces, and making my own lower braces out of aluminum instead of the heavy cherry one.

I still need stiffer springs, still undecided if I'm just going to toss on the GT springs after cutting them, or go with something more. If I go with something more, I'll be able to sell a pair of 25mm IPD sways and stick just a 23mm one up front, along with something stock sized(16, 19 or 21mm) on the rear of the car. I might stick a 23 up front anyway so I can sell the pair.

I'm actively pursuing getting the Tethys back on now, going to get a set of adapters from adaptitusa.com. Likely just 30-35s, instead of the 32-38 I was originally thinking of going with. This way I should be able to run 850 and 1st gen S/V/C70 series wheels including the later second gen wheels without clearance issue.

While looking at my strut mounts, I see icky stuff. They're way pushed up/stretching after a year and a half of hard usage, with occasional bottoming out of the suspension... Not cool. I want something stiffer in there, maybe I'll just have to get camber plates. Not until they're worse though, possibly sometime next year.

I can't wait to get the Tethys mounted up with the thicker spacers and some light weight 215/45-17 General Exclaim UHP tires... It'll feel soooooo nice...

That means, the Rikens are for sale!

[klr142]

1.3"(almost 32mm) and 1.5"(38mm) hub centric adapters are on their way... I was wanting to do something like 30-35 so that I could run lower offset FWD wheels if I wanted, but oh well. I'll be limited to the Tethys and other 49mm offset wheels. I think by the time I get other wheels though, they won't need adapters... :oogle:

I got two different prices from two different people at the same company, so hopefully I'm still going to end up with the right stuff(person I talked to last and paid gave the lower quote).

[klr142]

Woah. I just calculated on Google maps that I got ~26.4mpg... Filled up the tank with some Plus instead of Premium(or was it premium and then plus???) and drove down to Corvallis Saturday night, without getting too crazy with the accelerator pedal. I had to make two pit stops in Albany because my alternator and/or regulator is giving me crap causing me to drive around with only 12 volts(and thus a weak ignition system too! :)). Thanks Tony(and Tonya too for breakfast)! But yeah, it was all highway mileage except for maybe 5 miles of city stuff, for a total of about 168 miles. This is with the ignition advance still advanced 3 degrees. Maybe it is doing something? Maybe it isn't. Still cool though to set a new record...

Not cool to have an alternator/regulator give up on me.

Hopefully I'll get the exhaust sorted once and for all in the next couple of months.

And hopefully I'll take the time to make some new lower braces out of aluminum soon.

An upper brace would be nice too along with some stiffer springs all around, but I'll deal.

I also wish those new adapters were here already, my new tires too.

[Captain Slow]

Summary of current setup(updated 8/07/07):


So far it's dynoed 99whp and 127lb-ft of torque through it's AT transmission. Fastest pass at the drag strip is a 17.6@76mph, with a 2.6s 60'.


When I first got the car:

My mom has that same car, except its a Stick not an auto.

[klr142]

Dangit, why didn't my mom get one with a stick... :(

[towerymt]

1.3"(almost 32mm) and 1.5"(38mm) hub centric adapters are on their way... I was wanting to do something like 30-35 so that I could run lower offset FWD wheels if I wanted, but oh well. I'll be limited to the Tethys and other 49mm offset wheels.
17x7 ET43 might still fit, depending on tire size and how much you've clearanced the rear fender lip. They definitely would fit if you put the 1.3" on the rear and the 1.5" on the front.

[klr142]

Yeah. :) We'll see. I don't think I'll ever fit anything other than the Tethys anyway so I should be gravy. When I go autoxing,(maybe I'll actually get around to it next year?) I'll try out the 1.5" on the front.

[klr142]

I just swapped in a 23mm front bar with new poly bushings from IPD... Was going to change the endlinks' lower bushings to poly as well, but looking at them closer I found that the OEM rubber isn't that bad yet... And the PLAY that I noticed in them, was from them NOT BEING TIGHT! They were snug, but loose enough for the endlinks to move up and down when the suspension moves. THAT was what was causing the bulk of my front end clunking! I feel like an idiot for not even checking that. Damnit. I'm positive there's a bit of clunking in my steering rack too(looks like it's starting to leak internally as well), but oh well.

[klr142]

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0161.sized.jpg
Wasn't expecting those yet...

Now I know why I got two different quotes, the cheaper quote came with metric studs pressed in, instead of the standard ones that match my current lug nuts and OEM stuff. So I'll have to get some new lugnuts. But, this way I have some nice ones to sell that I was using before... These did come with some nice deep ones for mounting to the car though. I just ordered the tires, and they should be at HM Motorsport sometime next week, and hopefully I can get them mounted and installed on next friday. I haven't checked to see if they're hub centric yet, but they better be(to the car, that is).

[crandandall]

MMM spacers, wish I had the money for some 'ballin FWD wheels. I'm happy with my MSW's on the wagon though. Lookin good as always man.

You gonna have TJ mount up your tires for ya? He's still over there at HMM. Tell him I said hi.

[klr142]

Oh sheet, that's right! I forgot all about that... But I'm having Tirerack ship them there anyway... So, they're probably going to HAVE to charge me something decent because I'm going through them already. We'll see.

I gave the car a wash a couple days ago, and spent a little time on the Rikens, they looked pretty good after a decent wash and some light polishing done on the lips! Sadly I didn't put the car in the garage and everything got coated with condensation overnight, and now they have some light oxidization that got rid of the shine already. Doh! They should clean up pretty nicely if someone spends the time to polish and seal them though!

[klr142]

Well, I had a little bit of everybody working on the car... Haha, not really, but I did make sure they had someone else sit in the car while TJ aligned it. My f'n frame or subframe or something though pisses me off, tweaked to one side, or something. Could only get a max of .5 degrees camber out of the driver's side, with like the ability for almost a full degree on the right side. Anyway, for the big disappointment, the new adapters are FAR from being hub centric. I guess that's why I got one quote from one person and another from another. I thought that was just due to the fact that I was going to let them put in metric studs that they usually use instead of the standard studs that I originally asked for in the quote. Regardless, the car shakes. It's lame. Not going to cut it, by any stretch of the imagination. I'll remove the wheels on sunday and reinstall them myself, but I'm not expecting any improvement. The car needs to go lower up front, there's some wheel well gap now! Blah. We'll see what it looks like in the sunlight tomorrow morning.

I think I'll be trying to return these adapters, and going with some known high quality ones that are both hub AND wheel centric. I might even go THICKER on the adapters(in the rear) as I seem to still have room back there... I want to take up every last bit I can! It also seems I could just get a set of 4 8.5" wide wheels with the right offset and run them without issues, depending on what tires I toss on them... All with no crazy fender mods!

This also makes me wonder if the ones I had before actually WERE hub centric to the car, I never really gave it much thought when I had them off. If they were, I sold them for not enough. :)

The boys at HM Motorsports are awesome though, mad props to them. Thanks Jordan and TJ! And Eli for being a talkity talker. And John for sitting in the car while it got its alignment. :nod:

[valvesprung]

Anything for you baby! :lol:

[klr142]

:) :-p

[klr142]

Exhaust has been "edited" so that it's about 2" higher where it goes underneath the rear axle, and an inch or so higher in the middle of the car. MUCH better. Got a new downpipe on with a different setup that includes an ovaled 2.5" pipe coming off of the two secondaries. Car still sounds like it has an exhaust leak, which is REALLY annoying because it DOESN'T... It's better though, and it seems to feel better on the butt dyno as well, which is REALLY good. Haha.

The incorrect adapters have been returned, and I'm waiting on a set of hub AND wheel centric adapters to come back from the company. Usually they wouldn't do both hub and wheel, but they're hooking me up because they messed up the first order.

19mm rear swaybar was installed and the PCV system was serviced for the first time ever since I've owned it, tonight. Hopefully that'll take care of most of the oil leaking issues that my car has... My fingers are crossed anyway.

And, most importantly, I HAVE NEW TAILLIGHTS! But damn. If I pay around $300 for a set of new Euro headlights, I'll be happy. I mean, I just spent almost $300 on some new Volvo TAILLIGHTS! Painful, for sure. It had to be done though, my taillights have always needed to be replaced, but the fact that someone decided to bump into my car with there's sealed the deal. Somehow they managed to avoid hitting the actual body of the car, and just scratched the bumper a little bit and broke the taillight further.

A couple weeks ago I also installed some new bulbs for some of the switches inside the car. Yay for a driver's seat heater switch that lights up! And an AC switch(even though the AC needs charging), and the rear foglight switch.

Next on the list:
-oil change
-going through the interior to get rid of annoying rattles
-pulling door panels to lubricate lock assemblies and window guides/motors/gears etc.
-toss in the black door pull knob things to further my black and blue interior
-get some alloy tubing for new lower chassis bracing

[klr142]

Since we're missing pictures in this thread, here're some from the Canada meet this year.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/canada07/IMG_0058.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/canada07/1112025672_428837f69a_o.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/canada07/DSCF0237.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/canada07/IMG_0057.sized.jpg

Ps. The tirerack had a closeout on Koni Sport rear shocks, with "fewer than 3" available according to their site. I got carried away and ordered them today, they're already on their way.

Dan, you want the Bilsteins you say? Send me a PM with an offer.

[klr142]

And more, cause I want more.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/canada07/DSCF0297.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/canada07/IMG_0032.sized.jpg

I can't wait to get some pictures with the new adapters on... The tires are a good bit smaller, but the wheels are pushed out a decent bit. With the axle one turn more centered things should look a little better as well. :)

[Captain Slow]

Nice, It's weird I see a blue/blue 240 just like that almost everyday. Except stock and beat up, seeing how my mom has destroyed it. Your car looks good though. I like that black 744 too. The headlights look like they're from a Lancia Delta Intigrale.

[klr142]

Heh, thanks. :) I think the 740 has Mercedes E class headlights in it, if I remember correctly.

I'll need to get some pictures after I finish the two tone doors. I don't have black door pockets for the front, but oh well.

[GTJordan]

Looking great man

Jordan

[valvesprung]

I'm glad they are going to resolve the spacer issue for you, good work.

[klr142]

Me too. They meant to send out hub centric ones(to the car), but for some reason they didn't, so they're going through the hassle of getting me the correct ones. I also asked for wheel centric, so they're doing something they never do normally, and making me wheel and hub centric versions for an additional $30 each. Which still puts me at less $$$ than Fred Goeske's nice ones(wheeladapters.com). But I wouldn't have had to deal with any of this hassle if I had gone through him in the first place. Meh.

I WANT MY WHEELS ON NOW! That's why I didn't swing over to the VW side last night Jordan, lol. Well, that and the fact that I went out joy riding in the white 242, and then my car after that...

Anywho, yesterday I spent another couple hours tinkering with the car. Took off all the door panels, replaced most of the window regulator washers, lubed everything up, and put it all back together nicely with the plastic sheets all as they should be. Also had to spend an hour tinkering with my worn driver's door handle, but it's better now. Yet another step taken to have a like new 244... :)

[klr142]

I forgot to mention, when I had the door panels off, I couldn't get the door pull "knobs" off... On my 142 they were relatively easy to remove, basically just pull up. These ones I felt like I was going to pull the door of the hinges and got no where. So they're still blue. It'd look better black... :grrr:

Earlier this week I removed the rear Bilstein HDs and the rear springs. I chopped a smidge more off the rear springs, and made them even, as opposed to one being slightly taller than the other. Then I reinstalled the springs with little 1/4" or so spacers from a 745 above the upper seats. In place of the HDs I put in the Koni Sports on their softest setting. Man, are these things stiff. Up until yesterday it seemed as if they never really compressed unless going over larger bumps. Most of the shock absorbtion was being done by the tires. I felt everything, the car bounces over bumps much like an over damped or over sprung/underdamped car... It felt good, when the road was smooth. My car lost lots of it smooth cruiser feel. I took it on the back roads, and it felt GREAT, much better than the Bilsteins, when the road was mostly smooth. I think the Konis would work better on a wagon, but are too stiff on compression for my application. Yesterday though, I didn't notice it as much. I think they're getting a little better, but that could just be me getting used to them. With 4 guys in the car though, it felt good, and I had trouble bringing the rear out as much as I'd have liked. Needs more LSD and power......... For the price, I should've tried out Bilstein HD front Surburban shocks first. They'd be shorter too. That was the thing that I wasn't expecting, the Konis were, if anything, a couple of mm LONGER than the HDs!

Did the oil change on friday night, along with installed a couple Poly accessory bushings for my alternator. I have some more to do the AC and PS, but the alternator was most important to get done.

Then I "fabbed" up some alloy tubing lower braces. Sadly, I didn't have the best of material to work with, so they're not quite up to the task. They look good, but they're only 3/4" diameter, and really thin walled, so they do flex. I may just go for something that's basically the same as the IPD crap I had on there. Maybe in alloy. Maybe not. Maybe some other material. Who knows. Someday.

[sk8daysaweek]

I'll throw up some pics of those braces you made bud. Just need to recharge my batteries from this weekend... I'm exhausted. Just a note to everyone reading this who has never seen or been in kyle's car in person. It is the single most immaculate Volvo i've ever been in. You don't even have to wear gloves while working on it... it's way too clean. Good Job kyle! :)

[klr142]

I don't think I have a comparable before picture, but here you can somewhat see the exhaust being tucked up further. It used to be about 2" off the ground at it's lowest point. It's almost 2" higher now... :)

And then you can also see the wimpy lower braces, too.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/121407workweekend/work5.sized.jpg

[Redwood Chair]

I don't understand how you say the lower braces flex.
They are end loaded tubing and would show signs of buckling if that is the case.
A diagonal brace,or sheet metal would insure that the X member maintains relative position.

[klr142]

They are very thin walled, and due to the way they are "crafted"/mounted they are already buckling. The tubes are just hammered flat at each end, with not as much offset to allow mounting on a flat surface as would be optimal. There is a thick washer under between each mounting point on the braces and the car, but it's not thick enough to keep the braces from hitting the subframe/cup where it mounts. They're already bowed, because they aren't spaced out enough. If you know what I mean, kind of hard to paint a picture with words, but immediately obvious if I had some pictures from the side.

And yeah, a cross brace would be a nice addition.

I might try some aluminum angle "iron" next.

[Redwood Chair]

They are very thin walled, and due to the way they are "crafted"/mounted they are already buckling. The tubes are just hammered flat at each end, with not as much offset to allow mounting on a flat surface as would be optimal. There is a thick washer under between each mounting point on the braces and the car, but it's not thick enough to keep the braces from hitting the subframe/cup where it mounts. They're already bowed, because they aren't spaced out enough. If you know what I mean, kind of hard to paint a picture with words, but immediately obvious if I had some pictures from the side.

And yeah, a cross brace would be a nice addition.

I might try some aluminum angle "iron" next.

Gotcha.
Aluminum is 3x lighter 3x weaker,and fatigues 5x as fast.
I was thinking about the angle iron deal,but it would hang down,unless it was notched,and the return was turned up.
A 1/8 or 18 Ga stainless plate lower brace was my next mod on the 245 but I sold it.
The malleability and toughness of stainless is ideal in this application,
and torsonal loads would be covered by the plate.
Not to mention smoothing undercar airflow. :)

[RedFridge]

Just did a full re-read of your thread.
A good read and I love your car man.

[mblue240]

That exhaust looks great now. Did you go under axle with it?

[klr142]

Thanks guys.
Gotcha.
Aluminum is 3x lighter 3x weaker,and fatigues 5x as fast.
I was thinking about the angle iron deal,but it would hang down,unless it was notched,and the return was turned up.
A 1/8 or 18 Ga stainless plate lower brace was my next mod on the 245 but I sold it.
The malleability and toughness of stainless is ideal in this application,
and torsional loads would be covered by the plate.
Not to mention smoothing undercar airflow. :)I hope your 3x lighter, 3x weaker, fatigues 5x as fast numbers aren't 100% accurate... Lol. If that were the case, I shouldn't have been anal about lightening things and stuck with the IPD lower stuff. Stainless is heavy, too. Is it lighter than iron? Could it be made with less material and be just as strong? The IPD lower stuff was 1.5"x.25" stock.

That exhaust looks great now. Did you go under axle with it?Yes, it's always been under the axle, like stock fitment. I'm not worried about it being low to the ground at that point anymore, before, it was, but now it's more stock and tucked up fitting.

Now, if only I could make the header pipe shut up.

[Redwood Chair]

Pretty sure aluminum weighs 28% as much as Iron.
But by the time it is alloyed with copper ect,
a third is a good number for comparisons.
Steel or alloys of iron is usually what is used for structural purposes.

Stainless is slightly heavier due to the chromium,and nickel content.
One could bend returns on the edges of the plate brace,and go with a thinner gauge.
Considering the forces involved,and the fact that the front end is designed to wad up in an impact,it may be wise to locate the crossmember,but not overdo it for your intended purpose.
Edit,
That said;with the larger tires you are running,you may very well be able to bend the front crossmember back with a panic stop without a lower brace.

[klr142]

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/klr240exhaust/IMG_0202.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/klr240exhaust/IMG_0200.sized.jpg

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/klr240exhaust

Version 2.0 is in the last 5 pictures. Different downpipe, and the rear section is tweaked to sit higher.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Misfiring issues:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=122381
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Noisy downpipe issues:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=122080
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-New strut tower brace... :-D Cut out a little more of the airbox as well, I didn't realize I had untapped potential there. :roll:

-E-fan is on its way, along with a CORRECT 6000rpm matte finish tachometer. w00!

-Brand new Volvo black door pockets are on back order through Volvo to further the two tone interior.

-I have started looking into stereo and speaker options, damn these little speaker areas... :grrr:

-Wideband setup is on it's way and can be plugged into my other O2 sensor port in my exhaust manifold so I can keep my eye on and tinker with things. Manual pedal assembly too, but who knows how long that'll just be taking up space in the garage. Speaking of my garage, you guys should come over and raid it so I can empty it out a bit.

And how about some new, dirty pictures:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0178.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0182.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0190.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0193.sized.jpg

As always, all of the pictures, and larger versions can be found in here: http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/MY244

NOW WHERE ARE MY NEW WHEEL ADAPTERS!?!?!!?!??!??

[Vol242vo]

Looking really nice Kyle, I know you just got the strut brace but have you had a chance to see if it makes a noticeable difference?

[amargill19?]

no longer mom's grocery getter?

so now its kyle's grocery getter?

lookin' good man.

[klr142]

Heh, yeah I guess it is Kyle's grocery getter now...

I need my other wheels to REALLY notice a difference with the brace, but yes, I know it's there and it does make the rest of the body twist, rather than the strut towers. It's a noticeable difference, for the better. I don't really know how to describe it. Stiffer chassis = good, period. I noticed it for the better with the other brace, I notice it again now, and it's lighter this time around. Those lower braces may have helped, but they're so far from optimal I'm not going to act like they did anything.

[mblue240]

The upper brace is massive!

What do you need me to take out of your garage? All i can offer you is the free space you'll have :rofl:

[klr142]

Hey man, swing on by, feel free to come and just take some of the stuff, lol. Well, maybe. How about another pair of snows? You just have two, right? I have two more, but they're old and one needs to be reseated/patched(I assume).

[crandandall]

Looking good man. Do you have speakers in your rear doors? If not, you can do what I did. I used some lower profile 6.5" speakers in 1" spacers to mount them to the doors. I had to cut holes in the door panels for the speakers to fit in there, but it looks ok. For the fronts I built some spacers to use infinity 4x6 plates. Only problem I have with the plates up front is that I can't use any grilles, so they don't look factory.

[klr142]

Yeah, I'm trying to keep it looking factory though... Meh. The rear doors have the factory 4" or so speakers, and the fronts are the later 240 5.25" speakers. There isn't really much room for aftermarket 5.25s up there though. I hate all the fancy dumb grills for a lot of the aftermarket speakers too.

I'm going to see what Crutchfield has to offer me here in the next month or so. I didn't like what Cartoys was telling me my options were.

We'll see.

[oneflat83]

dirty dirty pictures kyle. you ready for a touch up yet?

[klr142]

I know. :( You really do not want to see the car right now, it's very sad.

It's going to get all the dents pulled/pushed out of it as well as possible sometime in the next month or two... And a lot of the scratches and spots where the paint is gone will need to be touched up too. I haven't been putting too much effort into that right now as it's giving me other grief. Like being old and rattley. And misfiring more than it should be, I think. Running seemingly rougher than it should be. And lastly, what I'm going to look into tonight, is belt noise/bearing noise from the engine.

[klr142]

Brand new Volvo black door pockets and "clips".
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/0111081450_G.sized.jpg

What prompted me to get brand new Volvo taillights:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/1204071822_G.sized.jpg

The Koni rear shock install pictures:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/1211071243_G.sized.jpg

Not shorter than stock, as I was expecting... :grrr:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/1212071901_G.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/1212071901b.sized.jpg

The 745Ti rear spring spacer that I'm probably going to remove. Or I might cut a little bit more off of the rear springs...
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/1212071953_G.sized.jpg

The latest dyno sheet with something FUNKY going on resulting in a 4600rpm power peak? Wtf.
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0211.sized.jpg

Some temporary rimps while I wait for my adapters to arrive either tomorrow or Tuesday(or else I'm going to flip some ****!) 15x7 et10 225/50 tires
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0212.sized.jpg

What's this???
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0216.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0217.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0218.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0219.sized.jpg
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery/albums/MY244/IMG_0220.sized.jpg

WIDEBAND! Now, if only I could calibrate the thing... :grrr::pow:

I guess that's sort of a peak at the two tone of the interior as well. For some reason I was unable to get the little interior door pulls off of their levers so I could switch those to black and leave the little backing plates blue. :roll: I had an idea to further the two tone theme yesterday though, can't wait until the weather gets warmer to take it to that next step... :)

Then yesterday I chased around some interior rattles, only to basically come up empty handed. I think I may have improved somethings, because now I hear more minor rattles from all over the car. :raincloud:

[klr142]

13.5mm effective offset in the front, 10.5 in the rear... Tethys back on. Pictures of the adapters coming later. For a DD I'd probably run a little less thick on the front, just to keep the wheels inside the bodywork a little more(more aerodynamic and less dirt kicked up on the sides), and to maintain the neutral/resilient steering that comes with having close to stock offset. If I were to run 235/40 tires, which is entirely possible(245/40 may work with the right tires and offset), I'd need to run thinner spacers.

[klr142]

Yessssss:
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/27932-1/IMG_0237.JPG
http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/27935-1/IMG_0238.JPG


I'll have some recent pictures of it clean, and missing the damn front spoiler, and having a TON of rock chips, and in need of some wax soon. Whenever people get around to posting the rest of their pictures from this last weekend's meet, anyway.

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

Maybe next year. :rofl:

[Fake-R]

could you get some more pics of the lower braces? I have a set, and just want a better idea of where they're going.

[mblue240]

Maybe you have the same rattle as me...the little plate behind the headlight switch. For some reason mine wiggles.

[klr142]

could you get some more pics of the lower braces? I have a set, and just want a better idea of where they're going.There are already enough pictures of the IPD brace. Just look in my gallery, and expand the pictures to their full size. There are two holes in the car already, and then you have to drill the other two holes.
Maybe you have the same rattle as me...the little plate behind the headlight switch. For some reason mine wiggles.Mine wiggles as well, but it's not what's rattling. Well, it could be one of the many things recently, but the main thing that bugs me is something internal somewhere, that I couldn't find even when I had the instrument cluster out of the car.

[mblue240]

Its the only rattle on my car right now:grrr: I just wish there was a way to keep it from moving.

To find rattles inside the dash you really need to pull it apart and drive around with a buddy. The buddy will poke around and try to find it while you just make sure not to hit anything. DO NOT try this alone:-P

[klr142]

I can make it rattle by holding the rpm around 2700-3000rpm, where the engine creates the most resonance.

[mblue240]

When you get back state side I'll ride along and try to find it. You will have to pull the dash back apart though:grrr:

[norcal505]

oh snap!
i forgot about your car.
nice ipd rims, would love to get my hands on those....not as much as pegs though... :D
still autotragic?

[klr142]

oh snap!
i forgot about your car.
nice ipd rims, would love to get my hands on those....not as much as pegs though... :D
still autotragic?Yep, still auto, but I'm purchasing everything for the swap in the next week or two... :) Then I'll just need to figure out what I want to do to the flywheel before installing it in the car, and if I'll want to get a more aggressive clutch plate for it while I'm at it or not. Probably yes.

I have some KYB GR2 front shocks for a K2500 Suburban that I need to modify and install sometime soon as well. Hopefully they'll be softer than the Konis were, yet still stiffer than the Bilstein HDs. Either way, they only cost me 1/4 the total for the Konis... :-D

There's also my new wiper motor that's waiting for me to get around to installing it. The original makes noise and it's annoying.

Still "tracking" down a front spoiler as well.

[stylngle2003]

Kyle, we get our LH2.4 flywheels to 17-18lbs from the stock 28.x. Makes a big difference!

[klr142]

Can I get one done up by you guys? I'm TOTALLY down for that. Would you need mine as a core?(shipping = spendy)

[klr142]

A cam is now straight up with the stock timing gear, alternator voltage is now adjustable and set at 14.4ish compared with 13.8ish, computers have been reset and are still learning, and I have fresh oil in the car. Once the computers are done learning and I'm satisfied with the AFRs they're giving me(I really liked where they were before I made these changes, I'm almost a tank in and I still don't like what I'm seeing), I'll toss it on the dyno for the last time before some changes that aren't so minor. Such as an m47 swap(parts are in the garage, Dale's short shifter and all!). After that, it's time to pull the head and re-install it after an undetermined amount of work with an MLS headgasket.

If I have time next weekend, I'll install the solid endlinks I got from Ben when he was in town, and do a write up while I install the Suburban shocks in the rear.

[crandandall]

Your car's gonna be pretty wicked once you finish the manual swap man, I was impressed with it when you came down last year. Still need to slap a turbo on it though. :)

[klr142]

Once I've given it at least a half ass chance NA, I'll go turbo. :) I think I might be looking into getting RennyD's setup.

[Jerd]

any updates?

[klr142]

Heh, for some reason I never got the bump that you posted in here... Just now I saw your reply, and yeah, I guess I do have an update! :)

I'll make an official install article with a little more information later.

http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/MY244/burbshocks/

As for now, I love their combination of stiffness and ride. They're not quite as stiff as the Konis or the other crap I just had on there, but they definitely are stiff. They're just not obnoxiously bouncy from not compressing over bumps and such.

That being said, regarding the rest of the car, the AFRs at WOT have been learned back into being about 12.5 at redline, which is perfect in theory I could go back to the dyno now, but I'm going to wait until I install a new crank position sensor, as I wonder if mine is getting a bit sloppy. It's still the original one, and it's about time for it to fail regardless. Might as well pop a new on in and rely on the knowledge that my timing is as accurate as LH can make it. We'll see if it makes any difference. I'm holding off on that until after this month though, as I'm purchasing a townhouse in a couple weeks. Gotta recover from closing costs and what not. :)

After next month, I'll pop it on the dyno, get one last run down the drag strip in automatic form, then it's time to park it in my newly spacious garage for a manual transmission swap! w000! Gotta get a flywheel lightened and sent out to me first, among a couple other little things I still need to get. Most likely going to be running a sprung 6 puck with a stock pressure plate.

I'll update the first post with the car's current configuration, as it's a bit different from what it says it is now...

[crandandall]

Nice man, congrats on the new place. When you having a housewarming party? Me and Britt are planning on taking a trip up that way sometime this summer, It'd be cool to hang out with all you OVT guys again.

[kammer]

I guess that's sort of a peak at the two tone of the interior as well. For some reason I was unable to get the little interior door pulls off of their levers so I could switch those to black and leave the little backing plates blue. :roll: I had an idea to further the two tone theme yesterday though, can't wait until the weather gets warmer to take it to that next step... :)

Kyle,
To get those pull handles off, I use a "door panel removal tool". It will fit underneath the plastic pull. Cradling the plastic pull in the tool, pull up. It's gonna take alot to get them off. I've had some pop right off and others take a lot of pressure. I remove the backing plate with the plastic pull, because the pull will only come up about 1/4". The car looking good.

[klr142]

Nice man, congrats on the new place. When you having a housewarming party? Me and Britt are planning on taking a trip up that way sometime this summer, It'd be cool to hang out with all you OVT guys again.Heh, first time I've seen this too... Not sure when I'll have a housewarming party, but there'll be at least two of'm, one for the family and grandparents, and one for the friends... :) I'll keep you updated. If I don't have a second roommate by then you guys can probably stay at my place with a bedroom of your own... Haha, we'll see, but I'm hoping I'll have another roommate...
Kyle,
To get those pull handles off, I use a "door panel removal tool". It will fit underneath the plastic pull. Cradling the plastic pull in the tool, pull up. It's gonna take alot to get them off. I've had some pop right off and others take a lot of pressure. I remove the backing plate with the plastic pull, because the pull will only come up about 1/4". The car looking good.Thanks Greg! I'll have to give it a try someday. I still need to purchase me one of those door panel remover tools, along with a bunch of other things missing from my tool selection. One day. :nod:

[Jerd]

Hey what part of Oregon are you?

I'm in Shasta County of northern California.

[klr142]

Thought I got back to ya... Tigard/Portland area.

Been a while, eh? Good to be posting in here again, that means I'm doing something!

Just replaced the crank position sensor today(and upgraded to twin jet squirters for the windshield washers, :-P), and re-advanced the ignition timing 3 degrees again. I actually checked with a timing light to see if my setup is actually working, as I was never 100% positive. Yep, it is. Car feels smoother, maybe a smidge faster, but who knows. I'll be going to the track Friday, assuming weather cooperates, and we'll see if it can be a little less slow than all the other times it's been on the track. A tenth or two would be nice. With the tall gearing I probably should've left the cam gear 2 degrees advanced, but I like having a little more top end pull, so...(long duration NA cam on the way, overkill for my setup and stock engine management, but it'll be fun for a while)

I hope to autox it this weekend too, for the first time ever... Some stiff spring for the front may be in order, we'll see what Friday brings. :) w00! That'll be a change.

I also have those solid end-links for the front swaybar from Ben that'll be going in this weekend, and I'll be removing the little spacers above the rear spring perches to lower it back there a little bit. Between the springs/end-links and lowered rear I hope to reduce my inside rear wheel pick-up problem a LOT. Can't wait.

Also have some front control arm boxing plates that I'll have to take care of sometime this summer. I'll probably find some control arms in the junk yard(and maybe some rear lower trailing arms too) to box up and powdercoat. Should be fun, get rid of some more flex, make it all more direct... :)

Then there's the transmission swap that I'd LOVE to accomplish before my track day at PIR(also my first, w00000!) at the end of June. That's going to be a major stretch, but I'd love to accomplish it. T5 please. Oh, I'll need to replace all the pads and rotors then too, along with the rear SS lines, finally. *sigh* Money. Damn S80 needs to sell ASAP.

Then there still remains pulling the head and playing with that and a thin headgasket, the replacement of the front windshield happening in there somewhere so I can tint the darn windows, and maybe I'll finally get around to replacing some of the stock stereo equipment?

Oh, and I still need to install another front spoiler...

:)

[klr142]

End-links on, spoiler on(:zeeall: finally!!!!!!!) and the interior and trunk have been vacuumed.

[Jerd]

Noice! Your doing almost exactly what i want to do.

Did you feel a difference in the end-links? Im gunna want to know about the boxing of the arms. :)

Keep updating for us!

[klr142]

I will. I don't think I noticed a difference with the end-links, but I haven't done much driving. It's not any noticeably harsher though. I had poly bushings on the original end-links, but not on the lower section where they mount to the control arm. They'd make a larger difference coming from stock rubber, especially worn out rubber...

I'll definitely keep updating.

[klr142]

Did my first ever autox yesterday, and HOLY CRAP was it fun. Had a super blast, and even gave 3 people a blast during the three fun runs I did after the racing was over. :) Can't wait to see the results and rest of the pictures! Definitely could've used a LSD, stiffer front springs and more camber, but all in all it went damn well!

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2513/dsc3206hv0.jpg
http://www.wmclub.org/images/Autocross5-25-2008/slides/P1010440.html

No new drag times, the skys opened up before anything good happened.

[holtzboy]

Dang Kyle, look at all those cones you knocked over in the picture! Just kidding, looks like it was a good time. Maybe if my 244 ever runs correctly again we can have the official N/A Showdown Part 2 at PIR this summer.

[klr142]

:) Cool. With any luck I'll have a manual transmission though...

Regarding the autox, I don't think I hit any cones the whole time, surprisingly. I might've hit one or two when I got a lil crazy on one of the fun runs with 3 other people in the car, but other than that, didn't hit any when competing. I guess I should've gone faster. :-D

Seriously though, it was a hoot, all of it, and I've never tossed the car around like that with a load of passengers, :rofl:.

[stylngle2003]

mikep once told me if i'm not hitting cones i'm not trying hard enough, and that i should be driving like a savage most of the time. good advice

[klr142]

Oh, I know, I'm definitely still getting a feel for things. :) There was "lots" more room for improvement. First run was 44.1 or so with the pavement still somewhat wet, then a 42.6(?), then a 41.5 and lastly a 40.5. First time on the "track", and had an amazingly super freaking blast. The first run I had no idea what I was doing, don't even remember doing it because it was such a rush. I still managed to relatively do well for my first run.

I just ordered some 10x250lb springs for the front, so I'll be putting those up there before the next autox. I don't know how much, if any that'll lower me from my current setup, but it'll be close. I'll just have to figure out how to lower the passenger side because it's definitely going to sit higher than the driver's...

[Tuff240]

.

[klr142]

I think we need to throw him in a track car and see how he does with a full speed 4 wheel drift since he obviously has the basics down. :oogle:So tempting, buttttt, I was just telling Peter today that I think I'm going to be holding off on getting into the real racing for a while longer. This Autox stuff is a super blast and will feed my wants for a while. :cool:

And thanks. :-D

[SteveP]

Your car looks awesome on them S60 rims! Very clean!

[klr142]

Thanks!

I had the windshield replaced today, so it's in theory ready for tint now... I'm not 100% satisfied with the install, but maybe that's just because my car is a 17 year old car and they aren't perfect after a few miles... :-( Tint's not going to happen though, at least not any time soon. Just too much to do, and I'm always chasing after the performance things before tinkering with the looks or sounds.

[klr142]

Project budget handling complete. Well, the right front's making some creaking noise that I'll have to look into, but I just finished installing some 10x200lb springs up front. So far it rides just about exactly the same(not harsh or obnoxious by any stretch of the imagination), and I'll find out tomorrow how it handles the corners. Autoxing for the second time, this time at PIR on a much smoother track. We'll see how it goes.

Pictures from today's work coming sometime.

[klr142]

I think the noise is just coming from the springs rubbing against the PCV, maybe, maybe not. Not really worried about it for now, the car needs 250lb springs with some coil-overs anyway.

Regarding the autox... :roll: It was a waste of my gas, money, time, and lack of sleep. Super short track(24.0 was the fastest) that was not technical at all, and my car hated it to boot. My first run was a 31.5, my last run was a 31.5, with a best of 31.2(or 3?) and a worst of 31.8. It was not fun for me.

[klr142]

New fastest pass at the drag strip, 17.486@77.88mph with a 2.552 60'.

[klr142]

PBR Ultimate brake pads all around with new Brembo rotors. AC conversion coming in the next couple of days(w00!). Might get the rear SS lines on finally, ran out of time last week, and some fresh ATE Type 200 brake fluid would be good.

http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/MY244/tctrackday/

http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31104-1/IMG_2128.JPG

There're a couple short videos in the link. Hopefully someone else got some more pictures from the day... With a high quality camera, etc. We'll see.

Car handled the trackday beautifully, except for starting to run a little on the hotter side of things. I don't know if it got hot enough to have even mentioned it was warm, if it still had the compensation board thing in there(bypassed), but I didn't worry about it. Otherwise, with the old Hoosiers on it, it was pretty balanced. Can't wait for a limited slip differential, even stiffer suspension, and some decent negative camber... Car'll handle absolutely beautifully after that. But, there's always other stuff that's more important... Like a manual transmission, and some headwork... :)

[klr142]

-Found out why I was getting a little warm on the track day... I forgot to reinstall the air ducting that fits into the front spoiler and directs air up to the radiator. 100 degree heat with the AC on and no problems yesterday. :) By the way, having AC is VERY nice.

-Stock radio stopped producing sound, so I finally broke down and got a Pioneer head unit to go with some 5 1/4" front and 4" rear Pioneer speakers. Sound quality is much better than stock, of course, and I'm actually able to turn up the volume without worrying(much) about hurting anything. I have pretty much no bass, of course, but at least I can make a lot of noise anyway. Which is quite nice. I did manage to overheat the head unit today in the 90+ degree heat though, and it wouldn't make any sound for a few hours. Working again though, so that made me quite happy. I turned the high frequency by-pass on so it's not working as hard. Not that my little speakers were using the lows efficiently anyway. Gotta find a sub situation sometime soon though. Also, when they installed the thing they somehow triggered the SRS warning light... :grrr: They then proceeded to disconnect the battery for a while in an attempt to reset the light. FAIL! Light is still on of course, and my tuning of LH2.4 has now been lost.

-Other thing of note is that between putting the A cam straight up and "tuning" LH2.4, I picked up 10hp at redline according to the dyno. Going from 2 degrees advanced to straight up seems to have moved the whole torque curve to the right almost exactly 200rpm, if you feel you can compare two different days at the dyno that closely. Same dyno, same correction factor.

Autocrossing for fun tomorrow, will report on that soon.

Oh, and I still need to get my front coil-over spring pictures up, will do that in the budget handling thread most likely.

[klr142]

Head unit is still acting funny. Wouldn't turn on after being off all day yesterday when I drove the car home from work. LAME!

Autox was pretty good, nice and long, not nice and slow, very technical. Too much to wrap my head around, and much too much for my hands to spin the steering wheel around with one wheel on the shifter. My fastest run of the day was a 55.5xx with a 250lb passenger holding the shifter in 1st for me. My fastest race time was my 3rd of 4 runs at 56.1xx. I'll post the link to the results when I get them. May do another autox next weekend, and actually compete in STS. We'll see, gotta drive a bit farther away for that one.

Here's the link to my budget handling write-up/pictures:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=1957707&postcount=58

And here are some pictures from the autox this weekend, no action pics, tried to get videos but they sucked too much to really post. I may post one of them later, but it's not a great run or a great video.

EDIT: Oh, and it appears I never mentioned that I got my suspension to shut up by lubricating the upper spring seats/springs with some HHS2000. They were squeaking because the springs were rubbing against part of the upper spring seats.

[klr142]

Found out that the intermittently working radio was a loose connection in the left rear door, so that's taken care of, SRS light is reset, and I'm going to be autoxing again tomorrow in Salem. w00! I wish they were a bit more snappy with their results posting.

[Quin]

too bad i failed at making that camera work right. no action shots ftl.

[klr142]

A few pictures from the autox:
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31483-1/IMG_0497.JPG
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31486-1/IMG_0498.JPG
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31489-1/IMG_0499.JPG
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31492-1/IMG_0500.JPG
http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31495-1/IMG_0503.JPG

No comment on what my hands are doing in the close-up... :)

Never got a great run in, but didn't do too bad none the less. The car doesn't like tight low speed tracks, but we already knew that. Doesn't like to rotate with the stock rear bar back there, and doesn't like to accelerate while turning, ever. Needs more camber! And limited slip! And then, who knows what it'll take to finish things off and get it to play nice. Aside from the obvious, tires that aren't M&S rated. :-P

As always, almost all the pictures(originals) are in here: http://ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/MY244/

[Karl Buchka]

I know I give you a lot of ****, but why for the love of god don't you turbocharge that thing?

[towerymt]

I know I give you a lot of ****, but why for the love of god don't you turbocharge that thing?
It won't turn and it won't put the power down....so lets add even more power?

[klr142]

That's actually another reason for staying NA that I thought of today. So when people come up and ask me if it's turbo, I can say no, and they can be even more surprised.

This car isn't going to be the fastest, it's not going to handle the best and it's not going to brake the best, but it'll be a good combination of fun to drive, without needing everything on the car massively upgraded in order to remain somewhat balanced. I don't want to cut up the car, and the chassis isn't straight either, so it'll just be a good street car. I'm dropping off a head at RSI soon for some 46/38 valves and special port/chamber work and will be running 11:1 compression with tight squish and an IPD turbo cam. I may leave it at that for power mods, or I might get a custom exhaust header and have a custom intake manifold made, but might not take it that far either. MS will likely happen no matter what, eventually.

I have to save my crazy and wildness stuff for a racecar, even though that will only be ITB, thus also normally aspirated.

I was thinking about this too today, this car doesn't fit into my "playlist" of cars, except as something extra, or something to have for now while I get a larger garage and get/build more cars. I wish this was a wagon. Heck, I may even actually turbocharge the 11:1 motor at some point and run 5lbs of boost through it. Who knows. I'm in no rush.

On another note, it was raining pretty good out there, and my stupid new windshield leaked all over my shifter. I need to get it back to those guys quick for some resealing. :grrr:

[klr142]

Windshield's been tinkered with again, haven't had it in the rain yet to be sure it's good now though...

Located a T5 transmission that's hanging out at a local shop, they popped the top and checked it out, looks good. From an 88 V8 'stang, supposedly Cobra, but i don't remember them being produced that year(I'm no expert). Has the steel plate up front for the input shaft though and 3.30 1st with a .68 5th. The guy's going to replace the bearings on the input shaft, reseal it and call it good. Cool. Should work well with my 3.73 rear end, may likely end up putting in a 3.91 when I put in a limited slip though. :-D

In the meantime the car has developed a bit of an exhaust manifold leak somewhere... Grr.

[GTJordan]

In the meantime the car has developed a bit of an exhaust manifold leak somewhere... Grr.


At the manifold durrrrrr. Just kiddin' man.

That is one clean car, my dad says it is just as nice in person (pops122)

Jordan

[klr142]

:) Thanks. And yeah, I haven't popped the hood since I first noticed the sound a couple weeks ago. Only driven it twice since then.

[klr142]

Some long overdue results from the last Autox session. Seems they lost the results to the just for fun autox the weekend previous. :roll:

http://wmclub.org/results/08event5results.shtml

[klr142]

Updated the first post with current "specs" and here's a preview of what's been going on the past few months.

Lots of stuff in the gallery(more and larger, including a couple videos), be sure to check it out if you haven't yet: http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/v/members/klr142_001/

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31104-2/IMG_2128.JPG
Team Continental Track day, was a BLAST! Can't wait to do it again next year.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31451-2/IMG_0464.JPG
Just chillin on the side of PIR looking over the track.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31486-2/IMG_0498.JPG
A little more autox action in Salem before I put the IPD sways back on.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31631-1/IMG_0549.JPG
A little spit shine under the hood coupled with some hood quiet kit.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31640-1/IMG_0553.JPG
Back to IPD's 25/22mm swaybar combo. Very nice... :)

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31658-1/IMG_0619.JPG
Looking for something a step closer(more aggressive) to my original camshaft(the ENEM V15NA cam), I removed the Volvo A cam and tossed in IPD's Turbo Cam. I wish I still had the Enem cam... :( Not a huge step up from the A cam, but a step none the less.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31667-1/IMG_0647.JPG
Coming back from the last autox in Salem, I guess my tire got punctured. Luckily the wheel was unharmed. Autox results: http://wmclub.org/results/08event6results.shtml

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31673-1/IMG_0649.JPG
Unluckily, we were stuck down in Salem on the side of I5 with no spare, jack or special lugnut socket...

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31676-1/IMG_0650.JPG
Luckily I have a roommate.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31679-1/IMG_0652.JPG
And TireRack's Road Hazard protection. I wonder how much they'll reimburse me.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31682-1/IMG_0660.JPG
I thought this was the last run of the night, so I decided to go big. In the burnout box.

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31685-1/IMG_0661.JPG
It got a little smelly inside the car... And I got told not to do that by the christmas tree operator...

http://www.ovtuners.org/gallery2/d/31688-1/IMG_0662.JPG
New fastest times for No Longer Mom's Grocery Getter: 16.869@80.40mph. The writing says 2 degrees advanced and less weight compared with the night before's time of 17.074@78.88 with mostly full interior and 4 degrees of advance for the camshaft. The ignition timing has the 3 degrees advance supposedly from grounding out pins 18 and 19 from the ICU/EZK box.

Regarding drag racing with an automatic equipped, NA, LH2.4 car, you have to ease into the throttle when you power brake it, as if you just slam it to full throttle it'll run lean. If you ease into full throttle before the launch it'll maintain it's stoich level of between 14.2 and 15.2 AFR. Better than 16 something, anyway... And make sure you take it all the way to redline in each gear, or snip it into third just before the finish if you aren't going fast enough to shift yet as it'll give you a little spurt as it shifts.

Also, for my drag times, I removed the aux. cooling fan and ran the heater instead. Passenger seat, rear bench, glovebox, strut tower braces and floormats, etc were pulled out for my fastest run. I still had the interior in the car for the 17.07 stuff though.