Project "162"

[pisco]

This was supposed to be a 162 project but it isn't gonna happen for a while...here's the original first post.

I have started work on the car so I started the project thread. Other than a bertone prototype Volvo never made a 160 coupe. Short version, take a dumpy '71 164 and make it a sexy 2 door GT. My car looks like this one , same less than glossy gray paint, same tall stance just no fogs yet and it doesn't look fast. http://www.164club.org/list/4832sk.jpg
Body mods aside from the obvious cutting and welding on of 242 rear sections and early 142 doors include a custom aluminum eggcrate grille pushed out to the front of the grille opening to make room for the intercooler and spare wheel lumps removed 242 GT style. Final result will be similar to this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/red162copy.jpg
Wheels will be 15x7 ATS classics refinished in a bright silver.
Example: http://www.164club.org/list/ats74.jpg

Interior will be dark tan leather with black carpet and accents, white headliner. I may also go for a vintage hounds tooth pattern in the center of the seats. The steering wheel will be a wood trimmed 3 spoke grant unit with red stained mahogany. On the dash the fake wood inserts will be faced with either red mahogany or a red stained burl maple and glossed. The stock ribbon speedo gauges are going to be replaced with the rare volvo ralley cluster with such hip vintage things as a 130 mph speedo and lights everywhere. The gauge backing plate I have refinished in silver metalflake.

Engine starting out with a stock B30A with AC (keeping it) PS (keeping it) and a BW35 auto which while amusingly tough I'm tossing it for a M410 or anything nice that you have to shift. Stock twin Stromberg 175cds have been tossed for two SU HIF6's for better throttle response. Future plans include B30E head, turbo cam, upgraded ignition/engine management, turbo and intercooler setup to be determined later.

Suspension will be progressive sport (lowering) springs and ipd sways. It will have to handle well but be comfortable enough for daily use.

Much more to come...(edit: there really isn't that much more to come)

[pwschuh]

Awesome project. Can't wait to see the updates.

[pisco]

This weekend was quite fruitful. I spent much of my time polishing the dashpots on my SU HIF6 carbs. They now look clean and new, not a mirror finish but clean. My hands still ache from the dremel and steel wool. I've got some rebuild kits for them but I wanted to see if I could get the car started with the "new" SU's. The Stromberg 175CD's it came with are just in terrible shape, the car NEVER starts the first time, the throttle responce is slow and it runs after shut down. I threw the SU's on and replaced several vacume and gas lines just to see if it would start. It started on the first click then drooled gas out of the float chambers. Good thing I've got the rebuild kits. For the few moments I had it running It sounded great.

Also polished were the valve cover and the top of the radiator tank which is brass. I stripped the paint off the radiator and then polished the brass. I did so much hand polishing this weekend that I have one large arm like a fiddler crab. Which is good for warding off attackers like my neighbor kids with guns...yes while working on fuel lines and flammable liquids I had to admonish my neighbor kids for shooting plastic bb's at my house, my cars me etc. I hate people who don't look after their kids and I HATE not having a garage, sorry, back to car...

I stripped the stock black paint off the ralley gauge cluster surround smoothed out the aluminum and painted it an aluminum metal flake. I was so happy with the results that I painted the tailight surrounds and the plate light too. Those are all clear plastic and have "chrome" paint on the back of them. They yellow can be polished off but if the paint on the back is no good you are stuck. The paint on mine was no good and flakey. Many coats of clear were later applied and the result is acceptable.

Carbs will be rebuilt this week and if I've set them up properly I should be on the road again Sunday. I'm going to jerry rig the stock air cleaner to work on the SU's for the time being until I can locate a nice pair of round air cleaners to throw on.

The next step will be decisions regarding the 2 door vs 4 door obstacle. Money, time, can I do it myself or do I have someone do it for me this ain't gonna be easy.

[JohnMc]

Yeah, how are you going to do that (4dr - 2dr)? Graft the 164 front end from the A-pillar forward onto a 242 body? Or just chop out the sheetmetal from the B-pillar back to the rear window and replace with 242/142 metal? Option B might be a little less tricky, The advantage of A is that all the welding is in a smaller area and not 'cosmetic', but it is more structural in nature.

There might even be an option C - just chop at the 164 front sheetmetal until it fits onto a 242/142 chassis, but that wouldn't leave room for a B30.

[pisco]

Well, If I end up doing all the work alone my plan is to take the b pillar out and insert the b pillar from a 242 because space money and equipment are at a premium. Using a step welding tecnique I can minimize panel warping. You tack weld the new metal on using 2.5-3 inch spaces between tacks and fill back the empty areas in one pass down then do this to the next highest space fill down, etc ad nauseum. Grind fill and finish. The new metal will but against the rear door opening (which will make a strong joint), include the b pillar and include the top of the window section underneeth the drip rail (there is nothing in that space on a 4 door until the rear quarterlight) Prepping the new sheetmetal to fit precisely will be the biggest part. I wish I could just throw the 164 sheetmetal on my 242, change the rear decklid and tails to the old style and call it done, but it isn't even remotely possible withought huge unexpected modifications to both the car and the panels. I want a factory looking 162 anyhow. Wheelbase for a 164 is 4 inches longer than a 140 or 240, huge job and I'd probably destroy 2 cars. I've spent hours looking over the welds on these cars planning.

[PRVersion]

Yeah, how are you going to do that (4dr - 2dr)? Graft the 164 front end

werd. by far the easiest way to do this is get a 142 with a smashed front (or not, but it's cheap that way haha) and stick the 164 front end on it.

[DaveTrees]

Its been done before ..... http://www.ozhotvolvo.com/volvo162.htm

164 front onto a 142

Steve ended up giving the rolling shell away for free ......

[pisco]

Its been done before ..... http://www.ozhotvolvo.com/volvo162.htm

164 front onto a 142

Steve ended up giving the rolling shell away for free ......

Man I wish could have picked that up, they did such a nice job. There aren't many 162's done with the early fronts either.

[Vee_Que]

A while ago in showroom or off-topic someone posted a 244 that was turned into a 2 door, it had various other mods, different front end and rear and basically remodeled body, but then he got in a 242 and shopped off the roof and the rear quarters in front of the rear wheel arch and welded all that in and chopped off the top section of the roof and spliced it together, looked really well done, I know it's a fair bit harder, but it might be an idea for keeping with a true 162 rather then a 142 with a 164 front, that is using 142 roof and such.

[manbeard]

I cant wait to see what it will look like!

[igor]

I looked at the picture at the top of the thread dozens of times before I realised there's a dude reclining in the driver's seat! Kinda freaked me out, dunno why.
I've often thought of turning my 244 into a 242, but then common sense gets the better of me when I realise it would be easier to import a good shell from o'seas (not many 242s here - I think I've seen 4).
The way I've always imagined it would be to weld a new b-pillar in the rear door opening after some very careful measurements, then remove the old one and fit the longer door. Then there's the issue of getting new sheetmetal to fit - the possibility of using the rear door skin has also crossed my mind.
There's probably a better way, and things I've overlooked. My only experience is imagining the process!

[igor]

Actually, it's interesting looking at that picture above again. The rear quarter window looks different than on the 142 in the background.
Specifically where the edges join in the rear corner. Wonder if it pivots open, cause there doesn't seem to be a latch either?

[pisco]

Actually, it's interesting looking at that picture above again. The rear quarter window looks different than on the 142 in the background.
Specifically where the edges join in the rear corner. Wonder if it pivots open, cause there doesn't seem to be a latch either?

That is just a photoshop error. I forgot to put the latch and the little upturn on the bottom of the rear window too. Also forgot to tint the windwing. There was someone else in the passenger seat too. He got really wierd looking as I did the chop. REEEEEALLY weird looking.

[pisco]

UPDATE
http://www.164club.org/list/ats74.jpg these are ATS Classics. They weigh in at 18 lbs each. So yeah, light wheel = more hp to the ground. Mine need some serious work on the centers so I started thinking about hubcap options. The winner is the hubcap from a set of coronas. By cutting the toothed edge down and installing a machine screw in the inside center of the cap I will be able to screw these on to the center of the hub like the standard 140 160 hubcaps do. They look like they were meant for the wheel and it gives them a really clean look like the wheels from a Ferrari 308.

I have no sunroof in this car so I've been investigating the idea of a ragtop. Webasto makes a great one that has a really clean look when it is closed. I drool over this application on a Mercedes Benz. http://www.mbzponton.org/valueadded/maintenance/webasto/webasto2.htm Here is the one currently avaliable. http://www.webasto.us/press/en/am_auto_sunroofs_789.html
So this mod isn't going to happen until the rest of the body work is done and the body strength can be determined.

[pisco]

I have been doing some serious thinking about my stalled project. Where I live and financialy, it is going to be impossible for me to do the 2 door conversion in the next year. I just don't have the facilities (no garage) or enough experience to do it myself. Do not worry, It will get done, just not soon. Instead for now it will stay a 4 door and we are going to paint the car Volvo red drop it to the ground and redo the interior as before. Sad decision but for now neccesary. I want to start enjoying the damned thing.

UPDATES: I rebuilt the SU's this weekend and I may hook them up tomorrow. I also purchased a center console for an early 140 with a locking armrest. This must be modified to fit by removing the front tray section as the 164 transmission tunnel has a large bump like the 240's where the shifter is as opposed to being flat. I may use the armrest area for the CD changer. I did that on my Blazer and loved it.

I have slightly modified my interior plan and I will use black vinyl on the upper portion of the door cards and tan on the lower section with a chrome-like trim separating them. Everything else is pretty much the same.

[JE Jr]

Wheels will be 15x7 ATS classics refinished in a bright silver.
Example: http://www.164club.org/list/ats74.jpg



Hey!

Where do you get those that wide???

[pisco]

Hey!

Where do you get those that wide???
D'oh! Looks like a mindfart. Yeah they aren't that wide they are the standard width.

[JE Jr]

:( I reallr, really hoped you had found a source for 7" ATS...

[pisco]

:( I reallr, really hoped you had found a source for 7" ATS...

Unfortunately it is nearly impossible to find ANY set of them in the US without paying a fortune. I got mine from Dale in Canada. Mine are really quite rough (especially the centers) but I'm going to modify the hubcaps from a set of corona wheels to fit over the centers.

[pisco]

Here is the first actual photo I have of my 164. Wow, nice roof. I've got chrome headlight surrounds now. It looks so much worse in real life.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/DSCF0132.jpg

[Vee_Que]

Very flattering pic, I'd keep it as is myself.

[pisco]

Post removed for stupid writing.

[pisco]

This one was stupid as well. But does this look like a car owned by a brilliant mind?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0112.jpg

So for the time being the "162" project has been abandoned. Bummer. However the 164 is still getting a complete, albeit cheap, makeover. Rattlecan paintjob, red painted steelies, a few interior tweaks and we have a ratrod 164.

First sprayed.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0114.jpg
After first sanding.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0124.jpg
After last sanding.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0118.jpg

[pisco]

Pics Here! The reds didn't come out on my $98 digital camera. I assure you the orange color of the door panels and wheels is bright RED.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0085.jpg
A wheel, neat. Look how terrible that tire looks...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0087.jpg
I pulled something in my back putting that damn seat back in so that is how it stays, saggy wrinkles and all.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0086.jpg
The wheel still needs work and it sticks out to my chin...so I'm going with an italian seating position, long arms and short legs. I had to stuff the seatcover with towels. The locking armrest is just fine and will leave me room for a future manual shifter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0084.jpg
Tag 'em and bag 'em.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/PICT0088.jpg
Camera ran out of battery before I could get the trim rings on there. I have 3 wheels left to mount. To get the hub from a 100 series to fit in the 240 wheel requires a cut from the inside of the hole in the side out, remove a bit of metal and tap the sucker into the rim. I need longer bolts to hold on the 164 hubcaps.

[pisco]

I loath the original instrument gauges. They are hard to see and lame looking when you can see them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/pics6-07073.jpg
This will be replaced by this...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/pics6-07078.jpg
This is the rallye gauge cluster. The GT cluster (seen behind) is more common and lacks the oil pressure gauge. It has a plastic textured front (picture in a later post) and the rallye guges have just a simple metal bezel typically with black textured paint. The rallye set had an aftermarket fuel gauge and the speedo didn't work. I bought the mostly complete GT gauge cluster to trade the speedo internals and fuel gauge. I sanded the metal backing plate, sprayed on aluminum flake brake paint, then topped it with clear. The idiot light surrounds are very fragile and two broke easily. I may have to use those jewel type indicator lights like you'd find on old guitar amps. If I go that route I may have to label the lights and respray the backing plate.

[pisco]

Here are the SU HIF6's in place. The air cleaners were pretty simple to make.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/pics6-07067.jpg

I am in the middle of changing out the fiber timing gear for the steel one. I'm going to need another paycheck before I can finish though.

I have to be the first person to do major work on the motor. Everything looks like it is from the factory, maybe even the coolant which looked like sun tea. The radiator got brushed ever so slightly by the fan shroud and now has a hole. It is so weak that it just started crumbling when I touched the fins.

[igor]

Those gauges are great! I hadn't seen any but the later RSport ones till now. Hard to find I suppose?

[pisco]

The 140 GT gauges come up on ebay every so often. This is the one I got to replace the speedo and fuel gauge. I just noticed that the smaller rallye gauges have the exposed needles as opposed to the temp gauge below.
Here is the GT gauge cluster or what was left of it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v51/pisco/pics6-07079.jpg

[b4_ford]

I might be wrong here but as I recall 164s never had a fiber gear?

[242Bleek]

Cool man, good to see you're starting this project back up. We will be the only two members here with 162's:-D

[pisco]

I might be wrong here but as I recall 164s never had a fiber gear?

I know the fuel injected 164e's and the B30 based penta AQ165 & 171(?) did. AFAIK they were optional on the early cars. Mine has the B30A with 3 speed auto with no OD so high revs were clearly not an issue on this car. The Haynes 164 manual mentions some cars came with the fiber gears but unfortunately didn't say which.

[pisco]

Cool man, good to see you're starting this project back up. We will be the only two members here with 162's:-D

At least your 162 has only two doors! Let me know if you ever want to sell it, I will always be interested. BTW your 242 is looking awesome!

[pisco]

Although I like the look of my original 164 seats, they are so damaged that they are decomposing & useless. I took the black 262 Bertone seats out of my deceased 242 & figured out how to install them in my 164. The back seat fits just fine but the front needs some modifications. The tracks of the seats are the same width and the front back adjusters can be swapped. By removing one threaded post from the 100 series seat adjustment mechanism and drilling 2 holes in the 262 seat for the bar that connects the adjusters, I will have the 262 seat on the 100 series mechanism. I will end up with 2 ways to adjust the height on the drivers seat to boot.

I had 240 steelies painted red on the 164. Nice, but the tires are crap and the wheels are thinner than I'd like. Enter the scorpio x's from my 93 wagon. They are lighter than the steelies & wider. They make the car look formidable & serious. So much for the rat rod look...

Pictures later...

[Fivehundred]

I might be wrong here but as I recall 164s never had a fiber gear?

No you're wrong, the vast majority had fibre gears, the only one I've ever seen with a steel gear was a 1975 TE, but I've also seen a TE with a fibre gear.

[pisco]

Well I (finally) had some free time to fix the 164, but my wife took my car to work with all the automotive tools in it. So I changed gears & set to work installing the 262 Bertone front seats in the 164. They fit just fine & all the mechanisms work. Take off the 200 series front/back adjuster, cut or drill two holes for one stud on each runner & the 200 series seat bolts right up to the 140 runners. I put the runners down first then pulled the seat on top with a little persuading. They don't line up precisely (200 series seat is slightly narrower) but once the seat is over the bolts on the runners, everything fits like stock. With 3 height adjusters & increasesed range on the front/back I can now adjust the drivers seat to fit a giant or a midget.

No pics, camera in the trash.