200-Series Turbo Comparison Questions

[bshegg]

I've been a fan of 240's since I met my 500k mileage '86 wagon back in the 90's. I'm glad to have discovered a community that understands my obcession. With that said, I am looking into buying a '82 240 Turbo 4-Door, and I've got a few questions about the various American models. Hope you can help:

1. What are the differences between the 240's, 244's, and 245's (Turbos)?
2. What are the differences between 24- Turbos and 24- GLT's (I'm assuming that all GLT's are turbos, am I wrong in thinking that "GLT" stands for "GL Turbo"?)
3. Do all American '82 Turbos share the same engine?
4. What kind of HP can I expect out of my '82 Turbo?

Finally, I'd like some advice and purchasing a high mileage '82 Turbo. Here's the story: One owner for life, mint interior, seemingly excellent mechanics, new turbo, suspension, tires, brakes and various other parts in the last 20k miles. Overall, the car seems to be in excellent condition with only unavoidably expected wear; regardlsess of the 300k+ miles :omg:. Is the car worth buying with such high miles? If so, what do you think it's worth? ($1500 asking price).

Thanks,

Brian

[Billiam500]

240 = series
242=two door
244=four door
245=wagon
I think only the turbo wagons got the GLT badge, my 83 244T just had "VOLVO" and "Turbo"
I think my 83 had 135hp stock.

[Tabor]

Here's the story: One owner for life, mint interior, seemingly excellent mechanics, new turbo, suspension, tires, brakes and various other parts in the last 20k miles. Overall, the car seems to be in excellent condition with only unavoidably expected wear; regardlsess of the 300k+ miles :omg:. Is the car worth buying with such high miles? If so, what do you think it's worth? ($1500 asking price).

It is probably worth the $1500 he is asking. Just make sure the compression is still good.

[growley]

I think only the turbo wagons got the GLT badge, my 83 244T just had "VOLVO" and "Turbo"
I think my 83 had 135hp stock.

I think i've seen GLT badges on sedans and 2 doors before or one of those. The intercooled turbos have around 160 stock.

[Acid8000]

Yes, the High mileage is worth is espicially since you said the Turbo has just been replaced and its only had one owner, Hell this car probably purr's just like it came off the line!

Definetly worth it, and you can expect around 120-140HP, you can get it up to about 160hp and 180lb/ft's if you get an intercooler and a Turbo+ kit.

[growley]

Just did a little more research, is the car you're looking at a GL or GLT? Not all of the GLT had turbo motors, but the GLTs included larger swaybars wheels, smaller steering wheel, power mirrors, and some different colored trim on the inside. This was in addition to most of the accessories that came in the GL.

[bshegg]

Thanks for all of the great info/advice! The car is marked with the Volvo and Turbo badges, it's a 240 Turbo, the reason I asked was because I have seen both 2 doors and four doors listed as 240 GLT's. Looks like I'll probably be the proud new owner of a '82 240 Turbo assuming all checks out with the engine.

What's the simplest (cheapest if I can't do it myself) way to check compression.

Brian

[Tabor]

1. Buy compression tester kit.
2. Follow instructions.

You may as well invest in one now. This probably won't be the last car you ever buy, and the only cars it won't work on are Diesels.

[bshegg]

Any suggestion on what to buy? Nothing over the top. Sorry if I seem a bit daft; as it is I don't know much over basic auto maintenance, this car is hopefully going to be my first real venture into learning.

Brian

[Vee_Que]

1. Buy compression tester kit.
2. Follow instructions.

You may as well invest in one now. This probably won't be the last car you ever buy, and the only cars it won't work on are Diesels.
And even then you can get a diesel compression tester.

[pwschuh]

When I purchased my 1984 (w/IC) the dealer info said it would make 162 HP. When I was seeing them in California at the time, the first GLT's had everything a turbo had except the turbo motor. When the turbos came out, at first they were still badged GLT's, but by 83 or 84 they simply said Turbo on back (and "intercooler" if they had the kit (from dealer or factory)).

[kyle242gt]

http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/240.html
http://www.vlvworld.com/indexframe.html?200/Production.htm

I think the price might be a little high, but it depends on your locale. In CA these things last forever and can be had left right and center for under $1000.

Consider holding out for a 242.

[Matt Dupuis]

this car is hopefully going to be my first real venture into learning.

Brian

Oh boy is it.

Items you'll want to invest in:

Compression tester
Feeler gauges (flexible, or even pre-bent)
Timing light
Test light (probe)
Digital Multimeter (DVOM)
soldering iron
A Haynes manual at the very least, a Bently is even better.
Get familiar with the search button on this site!!!

I've seen some high mileage B21FTs (the engine in all 240 turbos in North America) that had great compression but would still thin the oil with gasoline in less than a hundred miles. Mine got so bad that I couldn't let it idle for more than a couple of minutes at a time, otherwise the blowby coming out of the PCV would start to "poison" the air and stall out the car. Don't plan on this engine lasting you forever, but it's a good start.

If the body's good, it's probably worth $1500. Like I said, you'll be swapping out the motor in the not-too-distant future (anywhere from 100 to 100,000 miles is my guess) but it won't die a catastrophic failure - it'll give you LOTS of warning.

The number one problem with these cars is the wiring. Wiring and more wiring. If you're at all decent with a soldering iron and know your way around a DVOM, you should be able to fabricate an engine harness in a couple hours, which will fix most running problems. Or you can buy a new one from IPD, I believe.

Welcome to hell. This is only the beginning.

[Canuckvolvo]

I'll go one further. If you're venturing into unknown territory, don't base your purchase decision on testing you're not even sure how to do. Get a trusty mechanic (if you can find one), or hell, I'm sure there's a tbricker near you who'd help ya for a case of wobbly pops, to do the diagnosis for you. you could save yourself alot of trouble. If it turns out the car is a piece of junk, take your $1500, spend $500 on tools and a few manuals, and put the other $1000 away until you find a nice car that you can check/test yourself.

just my 2c canadian (worth almost 2c US!!!)