View Full Version : MS-Idle Control Valve-Anyone use one with MSnS-e?
12-07-2005, 04:41 PM
Just wondering if anyone had any luck with this feature? MSEFI calls it "PWM idle control" using the MSnS-e code with the FIDLE output. Says it's "partially EXPERIMENTAL".
Sounds like the MS box needs a different transistor and resistor, and a 3-wire ICV (Bosch 028140505). Which seems pretty easy, and no additional wires are needed from the MS box (FIDLE already wired up).
12-07-2005, 04:55 PM
you can use the 2 wire as well. I spaced out when I was doing it and grounded the tip122 without an insulator, so it worked well for about 5 seconds on the honda i was playing with.
12-07-2005, 05:29 PM
i am going to use the kjet seperate idle control stuff and save the output
12-07-2005, 09:27 PM
You can use a two wire for PWM? ...interrrrresting.
12-07-2005, 09:50 PM
I am struggling with it righ now. I am using a two pin Bosch idle valve which is most unusual beast. With no power (0V) the valve is about 20% open. As the DC the duty cycle is increased the valve starts to close and is fully closed at about 25% DC (3.7V) As the DC increases the valve continues to rotate and starts to open on the other end. At 6V it is about 50% open and as 10V it is fully open. I tested only one used valve. Others may differ somewhat. This is the thread that from MSEFI
What troubles me about this valve is that if MS tries to close the valve to bring the idle down and it somehow manages to go below 25%DC the valve will continue to rotate and start to open again. This will increase the idle so MS will try to close it further by reducing the DC but the valve will continue to open until the DC is 0% and the valve is partially open as in these pictures
One solution is to wait until they fix the code so that it does not allow the valve to go below a set limit. There is experimental code the does that. See KeethG posts in the same thread.
Another solution would be to hack into the valve and adjust the stop so that id never opens on the "wrong side"
12-07-2005, 10:02 PM
I'm using the Ford idle valve built into the throttle body on my engine and... well... I only use it for warmup. I've tried and tried the closed loop idle control and it's just not there yet. With my fairly lumpy cam and fairly large injectors I have, I've been having difficulty getting a stable idle below 900 RPM. When the PWM drops below this, it sets up a heavily surging idle that it has a difficult time recovering from. I imagine it'd work better with a milder camshaft.
Many have said that the Ford idle valve sucks donkey balls as well. I'm willing to believe it.
12-08-2005, 12:03 AM
This is interesting:
Seems like it's getting a little closer. I wished I had the time to try it out, but I'll have to wait for a month or so. Hopefully by then, it will be worked out.
12-09-2005, 02:50 AM
So we can now use the lh 2.2 bosch iac valves? What hardware or wiring changes need to be done to do this? I'm guessing this doesn't work with 25z because I don't see it listed anywhere.
I'm using the Ford idle valve built into the throttle body on my engine and... well... I only use it for warmup. I've tried and tried the closed loop idle control and it's just not there yet. With my fairly lumpy cam and fairly large injectors I have, I've been having difficulty getting a stable idle below 900 RPM.
I spoke to a few people who recommended a Ford IAC after it working well generically (ie. not necessarily with MS), but it could be a completely different part to over there (this particular one was on '85-'88 model cars).
However ... I had a huge problem getting mine to work with the MoTeC (same symptoms as you), and it turned out to be because the IAC valve was needing to open too far! The throttle-body needed to be cracked-open a bit, and after I did that, the duty-cycle on the IAC dropped way way down; it was going straight to 100% the way I originally had the throttle-valve set.
Is it possible you just need to do the same?
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