Fiber glass dash+deck enclosure.

[Jordan]

Ok, i've been getting into my Volvo once more. Its a 1982 244 T. As you all know the freakin deck placment is suuuuper low on the console. I have a really nice sony xplod cd/mp3 deck that i bought because it has really nice features, and it looks cool. My dash top is original, and 23 years old, and pretty darn cracked... since i hate my dash, and my deck placment i was thinking of a hybrid dash + deck enclosure. i'd have the deck ontop of the dash, in the middle, angled at me slightly for even better ergonomics.

Here is the clincher... i have never used fiberglass. I know that you lay down some sort of stretchy cloth, then resin and then hardener. I am not too worried about my skill level after i play around with it for a while. I am usually pretty good at cosmetic things, I have a good eye, and detail is important. Aside from having to take the dash out to make either a mold, or a cover for it, drilling holes for the deck wires, and installation does anyone see any problems I would encounter?

What kind of prices am I looking at for all the needed materials? I'd be painting it flat black to tone down the freakin immense TAN in my interior so paint wont be anything to worry about...

[BoxDriver2]

Didn't someone on here do a fiberglass dash before for a 240?

I say get a dash from a junkyard locally, and make one off of that.

[Jordan]

oh ok, great idea! i cant believe i didnt think of that! or heck, i could even just sand down the cracked parts, fill em in with bondo and paint it all over, then get some sheet aluminium for the deck cover, and use bondo to shape it so it matches the style of the dash... hmmmmm thanks for the new inspiration!

[BoxDriver2]

Here you go.

Quinn in Ohio

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=48985&highlight=fiberglass+dash

[Jordan]

thats neat, but i dont want to do ALL of it. i just want almost a "cap" on top of it... i might go pull off my dash right now and play around with some ideas.

[Jordan]

so i tried to go investigate my dash... and i cant get the damn thing off!!! i took out the glove box, took out two big screws one of the drivers and one on the passengers, took out a bolt on the passengers and was about to take out another before i dropped my 13mm socket down a foot well plastic panel... i gotta get a magnet to get it out... but how the hell do i take off the whole dash?!

[fryea]

just start taking apart everything in the interior. Seats, carpets, doorpanels, the whole works. If you can see a bolt, just take it out. Then eventually you will start to hunt for screws, under the dash, and fun places there. Just take it all out. Thats how I learned to take my dash (and everything else!) out. Fun stuff! I found like 15$ in change too

[Jordan]

haha right on man... but i dont want to take everything out... just the dash...

[wingnut]

Got a question??
What is the best thing to use over a mold to allow the fiberglass the release easily after laying the cloth and resin.
Thinking of a few fun fiberglass projects.

[Jordan]

In the thread, link posted above, the guy used masking tape and duct tape. I've never used fiberglass before.

[coldfusion21]

they have many mold release products, any fiberglass shop will have a good variety

[BoxDriver2]

Got a question??
What is the best thing to use over a mold to allow the fiberglass the release easily after laying the cloth and resin.
Thinking of a few fun fiberglass projects.

Wax.

[swedishiron.com]

For the '81 - '89 (or non-airbag/knee bolster) 240s, there are a total of only 6 (yes, that's how few) large Phillips head screws that hold in the dash.
4 of these screws are on the main braces that run underneath the dash. These large screws can be seen once you remove the felt wiring cover panels. The other 2 large screws are behind the L-shaped trim pieces below / to the side of the far left and far right heater/side window defrost vents.
Of course, you have to remove all the heater vents, the dashboard, the glovebox and light, the instrument cluster (and any other accessory gauge), and the cover chrome trim pieces to properly remove the dash.
The dash also supports the two large defrost ducts that aim onto the windshield. Each duct is attached to the dash with two rubber plugs that have to be gently twisted / pried to let loose from the dash bracket.
There is one final step: in the center of the dash, just to the right of the ignition, and behind the dash, is a J-shaped hook that secures the dash to the center console metal frame; you will have to lift up on this hook to remove the dash from the car.

Once you've removed/installed 240 dashes a few times, you can get quite good at it. I think I've got the procedure for removal down to about 20 minutes or so if I want to save all the fasteners, even less time if I'm at a wrecking yard and tossing stuff in the backseat or on the floor...