'63 p122s coupe restoration [Archive]

Turborg

01-19-2006, 05:14 PM

I'm moving the story of my 122s to Projects now as I am ready to start the restoration.
Today I did everything needed to pull the motor/trans.Here is the original post where I revealed I had purchased the car.http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=51434 Here is the site where I will post all pics. http://www.pbase.com/turborg/my_122s
I bought this car from the original owner a few months back. He said that he used to race it in the 70s/80s/90s at the Orange County short track. He is a 80+yr old Volvo enthusiast who also owns a 73 P1800E wagon. He said the car had not run for 10yrs. The parts that he put into dry storage were wrapped in papers dating from August to September
1993. So it has been 12.5yrs but whose counting.
I saw the car advertised in the free IPD ads. When I contacted him, he told me the condition of the car. He said if I fixed the motor and had the exterior painted, the car would be restored. I thought this was too good to be true, especially when I recieved some very grainy scanned pics of the car. He said most of the people who had looked at the car only wanted to buy some of the performance pieces. He had it advertised for $700. He said we could deal if I would take the whole car. The car had the engine stripped to the shortblock and all the removed parts drained and put into dry storage. These parts included a set of Weber DCOE 42s with spare rebuild parts and jets, a "high" performance cylinder head that was ported and polished, oversized valves, performance camshaft, duel valve springs. With a little reassurance from gsellster about the value of the parts alone, I decided to buy it.
I borrowed my son-in-laws' Suburban and arranged to rent a car carrier to be picked up in Pasadena, Ca. where the car was located. I could have pulled it on a dolly, but I didn't
want to count on the rear end being able to handle a 450mi trip. It was a good move too as the rear wheels were very hard to get to roll.
I went to Pasadena to get the car, driving down by myself. I went to his house before picking up the trailer to check out the car. The car was exactly as he had described it(pretty rare). We worked out a deal and I went after the car carrier. I had brought along a come-a-long to load the car. It was a good move as three people could not push it on the mover. I was able to wench it right onto the trailer, and ready for the road in about 15mins.
The P.O. gave it a final pat goodbye and told me again how pleased he was that I was going to resurrect the car. He stood in the road and watched me until I had driven out of sight.
I have been in a similar situation several times myself, so I knew how he felt.
The trip home was uneventful except when the Suburban decided to stop charging.
I had to hook up my battery booster pack to the ignition to make it to an exit. I fixed a bad connection on the battery and drove it on home, with a stop in Sacramento to give gsellster a look at the car. It was neat to uncover all the things that I got with the car. They can be seen in the photo gallery.
So the car has been stored under a car cover til today. I pulled the radiator, drained the fluids, took off the the exhaust, and everything else to prepare to pull the engine. My next post will show what I found when I take the engine apart. I know it has a cracked #2 cylinder wall but I don't know about the bottom end til I disassemble it.

gsellstr

01-19-2006, 05:50 PM

Cool. Finally pic's!! BTW, in a pic there of just the head(P4050006), it looks like #2 exhaust port is smaller than the rest. Hopefully an illusion...
Nice valve sizes on the head BTW. Looks like 46/37's or so? I'm curious to watch the progress on this thing. :D

Turborg

01-22-2006, 07:44 PM

I pulled the engine and transmission today. I have decided that I am not going to do anything with the six bolt crank motors. I have advertised for a late model B20 in the wanted section. It looks like the only engine internals I am going to use is the cam and lifters. I have a spare B21FT i can use parts off of. If I understand it right the crank is the same as the 8 bolt B20. I am wondering if I can bore the B-20 out to take the B21FT pistons. This might help with keeping compression managable for Ca gas.
The pistons in the motor were 92.9 mm flattops. These and the crank will be for sale. The crank appears to be in great condition. The P.O. told me that he had the crank chromed and then turned back to standard. Any advice/suggestions much appreciated!

PRVersion

01-22-2006, 10:45 PM

uhhh..if your pistons are 92.9mm i think that's the ipd big bore kit. i think they're like 89 factory.

Turborg

01-23-2006, 12:44 AM

uhhh..if your pistons are 92.9mm i think that's the ipd big bore kit. i think they're like 89 factory.
The block has a crack in the #2 cylinder and from measurements I have been able to make the walls are thin. I know this block is trash and that it would probably be foolhardy to try and bore another to accomodate the pistons. I like the idea of M rods and a bigger wrist pin piston. I have a good B21FT motor to use the pistons and crank from. Right now my plan is to find a late model B20(I want the electronic ignition and alternator anyway)and have it bored out to standard B21. Then the only things I would have to purchase are gaskets, seals, and rings.

Super1800GTR

01-23-2006, 03:15 PM

Looks nice! Good luck with the b20 build. 8 bolt crank, Mrods, b21ft pistons, on a '74 block, with a correctly ported (very important) "F" head is a good way to go if you want more displacment & don't want to brake the bank having a custom stroker engine built. I'd have the block sonic checked before boring it out & make sure everything's in good order.
IIRC the CRANK from a b21 wont fit. But the rods and pistons should fit on a "newer" 8 bolt b20 crank. There's been some discussion on this before...

I'm swapping the b20 that's currently in my 142 for a different one. Piston crapped out. It should have the 8bolt crank you need, unless someone swapped in in the past. If you're still looking in a few weeks I can probably have it available for you.

You going carb or FI?? If want a nice carb setup i'd check ebay :).

Rob

JohnMc

01-23-2006, 04:02 PM

You don't want FT pistons unless you plan on boosting it, though. With 12 additional CC's of chamber in the pistons you aren't going to have much CR with an F head. Flat, non turbo B21 pistons are what you need.

Turborg

01-23-2006, 06:39 PM

Turborg

01-23-2006, 08:15 PM

The comparison of the B-20 and B21FT cranks has raised lots of questions. The details are in the pic captions. http://www.pbase.com/turborg/122_engine

JohnMc

01-24-2006, 12:15 PM

I'm not sure how the missing 1/4 inch in length would work out, but I'd bet that if you pulled the collar off the snout of the B21 that it would look a lot closer.

The rod bearings are different on the 6 bolt cranks, the 8 bolt cranks and B21 cranks have the same rod bearings. They all have the same main bearings.

You can use B21 pistons on 6-bolt rods if you depart from stock configuration slightly. Take them to a machine shop, have them remove the brass bushing on the small end, and lightly ream them for an interference fit, and then you can leave the circlips off. I've got about 5000 miles on my PV's engine built like that, no issues so far. The earlier rods are lighter, and unless you are going to turbo or supercharge the heck out of it they are strong enough.

I have an R-sport head (big valves, about a fingernail's width separation between the intake and exhaust, double valve springs, reshaped ports), a 4:1 header ad 2.25 inch exhaust, Weber DCOE 40's with 36mm chokes, roller rockers and an Isky VV-81 cam. Goes like stink, makes great noises, it's a hoot in a 2250 lb PV (maybe less, I took the clunky rear bumper off).

Sean

01-24-2006, 12:59 PM

quote-"You going carb or FI?? If want a nice carb setup i'd check ebay" quote

I have a set of DCOE 42 Webers(pictured in original post)That I want to use. I have a ported and polished cylinder head with large valves and double springs.. When it comes time for pistons, I'll want to discuss what is right. I have some pics that I will be posting soon about the B21FT crank question. I don't thing it will work without some machining.

Looks awesome!!
I hadn't checked this out yet, You shouldn't be so scared of the Webers they are something that will take a few months of trial and error (ideal if you can get an experienced tuner to help you the first few times) and then they are simple you can set them in your sleep, and I find that they only really need adjustment after uninstall and reinstall or after ~6 months, or some other big engine change.
They are really sweet carbs and once you feel and hear them you'll never let them out of your sight :-P!

Oh and I have a complete 8 bolt engine (not sure what year though was from a 74 142 with a toyota tranni and a lot of other random stuff so it is unlikely that it is stock.
Sean
Good buy!!
Sean

Turborg

01-24-2006, 02:09 PM

JohnMc quote:"The rod bearings are different on the 6 bolt cranks, the 8 bolt cranks and B21 cranks have the same rod bearings. They all have the same main bearings." Check out how these bearings compare.http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/55228785

JohnMc

01-24-2006, 03:09 PM

The bearing shells don't typically go 'wall to wall' except on the thrust bearing (flywheel side, 5th main bearing on thse motors).

How do those shells fit on the B21 crank?

Turborg

01-25-2006, 08:57 AM

I put them on the B21FT crank and they just barely covered the polished area centered up on the journals. On the B20 crank with the bearing centered up, the main had 1/8" strips on each side showing. The rod bearing was a closer fit but still had polished surface showing.

Turborg

01-31-2006, 10:28 PM

I drove 6 hrs round trip today to pick it up south of San Francisco. It is a boat motor that is supposedly .020 over. I believe the pistons say 89.368mm. It was rebuilt 10 yrs ago but never ran. The pistons and rings look good, and so do the bores and bearings. I'll have to get out the calipers tomorrow and do some checking. It came with a pair of down draft Solex carbs, lower gasket set, steel timing gears, block already honed and painted(boat blue unfortunately, but will make a good primer for the red). Basically had everything but the alternator. I don't want to put the generator back on. Saw a chrome GM alternator at the parts house today that looked nice. I'm too tired to mess with it tonight, but tomorrow I will be checking it out. Anybody know the piston clearance, ring gap, and bearing clearances? I need to get a book with the pushrod motor specs. Thanks

JohnMc

01-31-2006, 10:46 PM

Sounds nice. I'd yank the cam and replace though, I dont' think marine cams would work well in a carb.

Turborg

02-01-2006, 01:13 AM

I plan on using the cam that I got with the original motor. It should work good with the oversize valve performance head I have.

gsellstr

02-01-2006, 11:51 AM

Sounds like you need to get it bored WAY out...to 92mm for the B21 pistons. Otherwise, here's the STOCK B20 spec's...

piston clearance
.0008-.0016"

ring gap
0.0158-0.0217"

bearing clearances

Crankshaft
Main's (radial) 0.0011-0.0031"
Big End (radial) 0.0011-0.0028"

Camshaft
0.0008-0.0030"

Those are actually Penta specs, not car specs as well.

JohnMc

02-01-2006, 12:26 PM

Sounds like you need to get it bored WAY out...to 92mm for the B21 pistons.
They typically take it quite well though. I've had this done on 2 different blocks with no issues at all. And I've bored a B18 block to fit B20 pistons with no problems too.

Of course, if boost is in the future, I think it would be best to leave it at 89 mm, better to have stronger bores and run more boost.

gsellstr

02-01-2006, 01:52 PM

I kinda know about that boring bit John. 50k + of hard miles and still running strong. Glad Volvo was smart enough to make the walls thick enough for us crazy idiots to do weird things to!! :)
I'm curious to see how long mine lasts once I get around to the forced induction in a year or two.

JohnMc

02-01-2006, 02:58 PM

Apparently that's luck of the draw, how well the coolant passage castings were aligned in your particular block.

Turborg

02-01-2006, 05:19 PM

I tested the main bearing clearances today and they are between .0015 and 002. The ring end gap is .016. Everything is looking good so far. I got side tracked cleaning my chrome oil pan and polishing the timing gear cover and didn't get any more measurements. I have an electronic caliper but do not trust it like I do the old measuring calipers. Need to borrow my friends again.
I am concerned about the cam bearings. The marine cam had to be tapped on lightly to remove from the block, and I was unable to turn it just using my fingers(cam only in, no lifters, and the hold down plate not installed). The cam I intend to use is the same way. I can turn it easily with a wrench on the nut, but cannot turn it with my fingers. I have never replaced the cam bearings in a Volvo motor, so I don't know how the cam feels on new bearings. Anybody got any thoughts?

gsellstr

02-01-2006, 05:46 PM

You SHOULD be able to turn it. Try with a film of assembly lube or at the very least motor oil. If it's tight like that, especially on a motor that has been broken in, there's something a little tight. The bearings have to get pressed in on these motors, so there's a little room for minor damage or compression. I know when the new bearings and cam went into my motor, I was able to turn it by hand, though it was a little stiff. Granted both were brand new though, and there was assy lube on em.

Sean

02-01-2006, 06:10 PM

If the engine was built and never run in, it could just be stuck, clean up the surfaces, put on some assembly lube, try again, if still stiff look into a set of cam bearings shuold be less than $30 and any competent machine shop will have the right tools to install them.
Sean

Turborg

02-02-2006, 07:21 AM

I have a question on the distributor that came with my boat motor. It has a knob that can be turned both ways. It sits on the housing just below the cap on the side. What does it do?

gsellstr

02-02-2006, 11:18 AM

Wow, can't really help ya on that one Harry. Is it actually functional in some way and not just a mounting stud? Perhaps the dizzy's locked in place and that sets your timing, or maybe it allows a certain amount of timing and nothing more than that limit? Pic's?

JohnMc

02-02-2006, 11:32 AM

Yeah, some marine parts are just different. Does it have a vacuum advance/retard on it? If not, perhaps they replaced that with a little timing fine-tuner knob.

Turborg

02-02-2006, 12:42 PM

The distributor that came with the car has the same little knob as the one that came with the boat motor. It turns both ways, seems to be spring loaded. I watched what you can see in the distributor with the cap off while I turned it both ways and I didn't see anything move. I don't have my camera today, but if someone doesn't recognize what it is, I'll take a pic tomorrow. Working graveyards this week, so its off to bed for me.

boostdemon

02-02-2006, 02:12 PM

um, as a contributor... why dont you post the pics on here so its easier for people to view. say for instance when pbase doesnt work or its slow

undrtw

02-02-2006, 02:27 PM

My b18 dizzy has a little knurled knob on the side. It's an oil cup that leads the the felt that keeps the brass bushing lubed.

Turn it to open, drop in a few drops of oil, turn it to close. It might even say "oil" or something on it.

Without a picture of it, I'm not sure if you're talking about the same knob.

The one on mine is about 1/2" in diameter and sticks out about 1/2"

It's no. 8 in this picture stolen from the Swedish Embassy.
http://www.cycloneinjapan.com/upload/files/29/dist_lurication.jpg
http://sw-em.com/

gsellstr

02-02-2006, 02:55 PM

DOH, forgot about that little deal ^^^^ mentioned. Seen that on a bunch of older dizzy's. Others have had a ring that spun around to expose a hole to drip oil into. VERY important keeping those bushings lubed though (especially running the 75 dizzy's which aren't as plentiful anymore).

JohnMc

02-02-2006, 02:56 PM

I think some newer ones have a felt wick underneath the rotor that does the same thing.

gsellstr

02-02-2006, 04:44 PM

I think some newer ones have a felt wick underneath the rotor that does the same thing.

Correct. The last 2 75's I've had didn't seem to be happy about actually wicking oil up though, so I've had to oil em regularly to keep em quiet and happy. Of course if I actually drove the car daily......

Turborg

02-10-2006, 07:30 PM

I am making some progress and these parts are ready for assembly.http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/55924577.jpg

swedishiron.com

02-10-2006, 07:46 PM

Did you chrome those yourself, or are they just brilliantly painted?
Looks HOT!!!

Turborg

02-10-2006, 09:48 PM

Everything except the front cover came with the P122s already chromed. The front cover I am trying a chrome colored paint on. I just have one coat on it now. The chrome pieces do have some very small pits that I hope to be able to remove, if not I'll just call it twenty year old patena.

Turborg

03-08-2006, 12:55 AM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/56976864.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/56976865.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/56976867.jpg
Finally getting back to working on the P122s motor after a bout with the flu. The last pic shows some of the port work done on the intake ports. The manifold has similar porting. I think I will leave the brass freeze plugs their natural color as it is a boat shortblock. Tomorrow the head goes on after I get it cleaned up.

Turborg

03-12-2006, 01:28 PM

I finished up the rebuild and assembly of the motor for the car.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/57070675.jpg
More pics of the engine and engine bay.http://www.pbase.com/turborg/122_engine
In the last few days I have found out that the car has a retard under vacuum distributor, which the previous owner had run blocked off. So I can try running it like it was previously set up, or connect up the vacuum line, or run the all mechanical distributor that I got with the boat motor. I like the options for expirimenting. I really like how the webers look on the motor, and I am hoping to get their legendary performance out of them. I also have a set of Solex downdrafts that came with the boat motor and I am real interested in the Mikuni carbs like Vintage Performance sells.
I have bracket measurements on an all chrome one wire alternator that I may buy for the car if the engine and the car check out ok after the engine install. My next focus will be getting the engine compartment cleaned up and painted to the point that I can install the engine. Then I will test out the engine and the rest of the car. I won't be able to make it to Davis with the P122s but I'll take the 242. If everything checks out, I hope to have the car ready to drive in a few weeks, and restored by fall. Later

klr142

03-13-2006, 03:12 AM

Turborg

03-13-2006, 07:56 AM

Piiiiimp stuff! Did you end up boring out the marine engine or just keeping it as it was? Looks GREAT! Those air filters will probably choke the carbs a bit, but should be good 'nuff I guess. Don't waste your time with the vacuum retard hooked up, that only hurts performance(and improves emissions). The two distributors might have different timing curves, but I can't tell you which one would have a better one or not. Maybe there's a way to look into that while they're off the car?

Keep up the good work!
The marine engine had been rebuilt a few years ago but never ran. It is .020 over with flattops. I took it apart and checked the specs. They were right on so I just cleaned everthing and put it back together. The shortblock is marine, and the rest are parts i got with the car. The shortblock is all American standard thread, and the rest is metric. Had to be really careful trying each bolt it seemed but everything has came out okay so far. The air cleaners are what came with the engine. I personally like straight velocity stacks but will probably go with some type of less restrictive but still filtering system.

klr142

03-13-2006, 03:45 PM

Sounds good man, can't wait to hear it at work... :)

Turborg

03-19-2006, 10:00 AM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/48995611.jpg
My next project is getting this engine bay nice enough to put the engine in. I have chemical strippers and a new side grinder with several wheels to try. I am now hoping to be able to start the car within a month. The only other mechanical hangup is the rear wheels are hard to turn. Need to pull the drums to checkthe brakes and axles. Later

Turborg

04-05-2006, 05:57 PM

It has been raining/snowing in N. Ca for three weeks straight. I have managed to get about 2/3s of the engine bay stripped to the metal. The car is outside and I just haven't been able to get on it as much as I would like. I had hoped to have it ready to cruise over to Thunderhill for Volvo day. Still not impossible but not likely unless the sun shines more. Later

PRVersion

04-06-2006, 12:50 AM

who made the header?

Turborg

04-06-2006, 07:22 AM

who made the header?
The header looks a lot like the piece that was in the Volvo performance catalog that came with the car. A lot of the stuff on the car was ordered from this catalog but I have no reference for the header.

Turborg

04-08-2006, 11:25 PM

Thanks to the rain holding off for 3 days, I now have my engine compartment ready to accept the new engine. I will not post pics til after the engine is running and I complete the things I want to do under the hood. Right now I have done enough to put the engine in and then finish after I check out the engine.
I have thought a lot on what I want to do next. I plan on setting in the engine, hooking up the ignition and the fuel, and then trying to test fire it. I will of course check for oil pressure and fuel leaks before I put the spark to it. I will not have the fan, radiator, generator, exhaust, or drive shaft hooked up. IF it fires up, I will let it run with the open header for just a few seconds and shut it down. If everything looks good, I will go ahead and hook up everything else needed. I don't want to do it all first should I have to pull it for some reason.
I can't wait to here it run! I also want to make a video to send to the PO so he can share in the rebirth of the P122s. Later

Turborg

04-18-2006, 01:07 AM

My friend and I set the engine in the car today. We finally had a day with no rain. I am have the car pretty much rewired and I have fire to the plugs. The electric fuel pump that I got with the car seemed alright when I test ran it dry but in the car it will not move any gas. If it had worked, I could have started the car today. I have to go back to work for 4 days so it looks like next Monday for the fire off. I was able to verify 60 psi cranking oil pressure with the plugs out.

Turborg

04-19-2006, 11:43 PM

Please see http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=769395 for the latest on the car.

Turborg

04-24-2006, 09:40 PM

Today I got the tranmission mount set and the driveshaft and speedo hooked back up. I cleaned up a little on the wiring and fixed a water leak that I had. I put the waterpump on mostly without sealant and it looks like I will be redoing that as I still have a slight drip. I found an inline 3/4 universal heater valve that is going to be a sweet replacement for the thermostat(that has a broken pipe). I have read these are troublesome so I am going with the inline valve. Got the shifter back in but was unable to figure out why the lever will spin 360 degrees. Not a big problem I guess. I started the car today and to my surprise, it idles and accellerates very nicely. I have only ran it on the jackstands but the engine sounds very healthy. I ran it thru the gears on the stands to get the oil moving in the trans and rear end. I plan on changing both before I take it out. The car has Bridgestone Potenza 60s with lots of tread and I wish I could save them. They have set too long for me to trust them(since 1993) and they will be replaced before I take the car up to highway speed.
Tomorrow I pick up the hood and trunk from a local yard. $100 for both, not the greatest deal but considerably less than a couple of sources I checked. My next post will be after the first test drive and I will have pics of the install. Later.....

gsellstr

04-24-2006, 11:44 PM

Congrats on getting it running solid! As for the shifter, I'm trying to remember if this had the short-shifter ala 140/1800 style, or the stock 122 long-throw. I've seen the long-throw ones where you could grab the shifter and twist it. Apparently they are simply a press-fit via rubber mount onto the inner half that goes into the trans. There MAY be a roll pin, but my brother wasn't sure either.
If they are the 140/1800 style, they have a section of rubber and a roll pin to keep them tight and in place. You should be able to look around the joint on the shifter and see either something missing or rubber chunks falling out.

Now, if it's twisting where the whole shifter will pivot in the trans, you've got a wasted shift top or something is SERIOUSLY wrong with the shift lever.

Hope that makes sense.

Turborg

04-26-2006, 05:00 PM

gsellstr

04-26-2006, 05:14 PM

Sounds like the rubber insulator has gone south for the winter and never returned. Try some rubber hose and see if that'll fit. I was able to use some 1/2" fuel line for my 140 shift and it was NEVER that solid until I did that.

Hank Scorpio

04-26-2006, 05:22 PM

Turborg

04-26-2006, 05:46 PM

From This
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/48995611.jpg
To This
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/59255756.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/59255749.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/59255751.jpg

Took it for a test drive today. It runs very good, stops pretty good, handles good, and sounds awesome. A 3/4 throttle run in third for 200yds with high board fences on each side was a sound that was hard to believe! Feeling the old iron come back to life after 13yrs was an incredible thrill.

It is higher geared than I expected, and I will have to get the tach hooked up to figure what ratio it has. It cruised easily at 55. Everything works except dash lights and license plate light.

Still lots of tuning and cleaning to do but I am very pleased so far!

Here is a picture of the old gal back home with her stable mate, the 242 from my sig.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/59255758.jpg

gsellstr

04-26-2006, 05:49 PM

Wow, that IS quite the difference in the pic's and from what I saw. Looking GREAT!!! If only my engine bay were that nice! Soon maybe, but not THAT soon.

245gti

04-26-2006, 06:33 PM

That's one way of keeping your fuel nice and warm...:-P

Nice work...I hope to report that mine is running in less than a month...:badboy:

Turborg

04-26-2006, 07:24 PM

That's one way of keeping your fuel nice and warm...:-P

Nice work...I hope to report that mine is running in less than a month...:badboy:
I probably would not run the fuel line the way that it is run but I am not changing many things from the way the previous owner had it. I am wondering if the 8 day windup clock that I have in the dash is stock.
My goal for the car is put it back like it was "in the day."

FlatWagon83

04-28-2006, 08:01 AM

Turborg

04-29-2006, 12:54 AM

Wow, what a difference! What are you planning on doing for brakes? I highly recommend the dual circuit master cylinder from a 140, good for peace of mind if nothing else. I'd like to convert my '65 to a booster setup from the 140, looks like it would fit pretty easily.

Keep up the good work!
I definitely want to do something about the brakes. I hate the single outlet master cylinder for safety reasons.. I wouldn't want the power setup that the 122 wagons have as they take up lots of room. I am looking into finding some type of small booster that can be adapted into the 122. My Webers have no way to provide vacuum, so I am thinking a vacuum pump and cannister off a Saab to run the booster.
There is a 142 in the local junkyard that I will have to check out. Thanks for the compliments and the tip!

FlatWagon83

04-29-2006, 02:54 PM

You're welcome. The 142 setup is worth looking into, but it is vacuum powered, so may not work with your setup.

Turborg

05-05-2006, 06:54 PM

I have driven the car quite a bit lately and it has been lots of fun. I'm learning a lot about Webers as I go. The car runs good except that it seems rich just off idle. As I have tried several different idle jets with no luck, I have almost convinced myself that it is the cam that is letting it load up. It has a lot of scoot in third gear up to about 75 on the speedo(accuracy unknown).

I installed a 55amp Marchal alternator and a voltage regulator out of an Alfa. It is quite the international car with French alt, English coil, and Alfa regulator. I have had to work out some wiring bugs but it seems to be good now.

I installed the hood and trunk that I bought out of the junkyard. May have to try and take the hood back and exchange it as it has lots of dings I did not see before I cleaned it up. Before with the hood off, at least the nice motor could be seen. Now there is just lots of multicolor.

My focus now will be on getting my 242ti ready for the Davis show. With the old car running, I can leave the 240 in the garage while I detail it. If the 122s continues to run decent, I plan to take it to Thunderhill, but just for the cruise, not to race. Later...Harry

Turborg

05-17-2006, 10:39 AM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/60330184/large.jpg And it is my daily driver while I am getting my 242 ready for the Davis show. I now am approaching 500 miles on the engine. Oil has hardly moved on the stick. It handles the 70 mi round trip thru the mountains to work very nicely. Temp gauge says it is heating up on the 10% grade 4 mi climb on the way to work. It is not hot as far as I can tell though. I think the gauge is inaccurate. I am currently running it without a thermo until I see there are no water leaks. I plan on taking it to Thunderhill, but just for the trip. I don't want to hurt the engine, and I haven't checked things out in the detail I need to for putting it on the track. Thunderhill is an hour from my house so it will be its longest cruise yet

Turborg

06-03-2006, 10:21 PM

This is my first attempt at a video so cut me some slack if it is too hokey. There is a nice road sequence at the end of it. The idea behind the video was to show the previous owner that I had the old car back on the road. Thanks to Patrick for hosting it for me.http://www.tuff240.com/videos/Volvo_0001.wmv

gsellstr

06-04-2006, 02:37 AM

Lookin good Harry!! Sounds AWESOME and seems to pull pretty good even in third, especially for a 1990cc motor!

Turborg

06-04-2006, 03:13 AM

Lookin good Harry!! Sounds AWESOME and seems to pull pretty good even in third, especially for a 1990cc motor!
I think at .020 over it would be just over 2000, but I don't know for sure. I have verified the speedo to be 5 mph fast. It will run 70mph actual in third gear without even approaching redline. I still don't push it as I don't want to hurt the engine and I don't totally trust it until I get a few more things done.

The carbs have what is called reversion. For those who don't know(and I didn't until I had researched my syptoms recently) reversion is exhaust going back thru the carbs at low RPM. This is caused by the long duration on my camshaft. The intake and exhaust valve are open at the same time and exhaust pressure pushs the intake charge back out of the carb. This makes for a funky idle and explains why the car has to be "cleared out" and then it runs very strong from just off idle.

I am going to put the duel Solex carbs I got with the boat motor on to see how they do. The Webers are essentially one carb per cylinder where the Solexes feed two cylinders each. This may cure the reversion and improve the mileage. Carbs can be swapped on this car in less than an hour so its time to do some expirmenting. Any thoughts? Thanks

gsellstr

06-04-2006, 02:20 PM

You're certainly not going to get the performance from the Solex's, but it may cure that reversion since you'll have vacuum at the carb more often being that it feeds both cylinders. Another thought would be a set of SU's, which perform much better than the Solex's in the marine applications. The Solex's were designed for pulling, and not so much of a high-performance app, whereas the SU's were MUCH more capable in the performance area when tuned properly.

Turborg

06-04-2006, 07:38 PM

I love the Weber carbs for several reasons, but I like to drive the car a lot too. And to do that, I would prefer that it performed better just off idle with better mileage. The stump puller status of the Solex carbs may be just what I need. And with the seperated manifolds, it can be swapped quickly. I can keep the Webers for shows/rallying, and use the Solexes for day to day driving. I must admit that I am intrigued by the Mikuni setup that John Parker sells as it offers performance, drivability, and economy(except the original purchase-$750). I want to retain the basic personality of the car, so i don't want to change the cam.

This is a fun car for me so a little expirmenting will be fun.

Turborg

07-04-2006, 11:56 AM

This is the MC I am going to install on the 122s.http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/product1023.html
And this will be going on the rear brake circuit for some adjustability.
http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=72&cat=61&page=1
These pieces total less than $200 for both. The MC is a direct boltup(vertical mount bolts on 2.25" centers). I'll just need to figure out the line fittings and it should be good to go! When I get it to stop to suit me, I'll feel much more comfortable about seeing how it will really perform.

245gti

07-04-2006, 12:05 PM

Turborg

07-04-2006, 12:20 PM

Without going too far back...your existing m/c will provide one line fitting...it's a direct fit. I undid it from the Volvo m/c and screwed it into the Wilwood m/c. Where is your second line coming from?

FWIW...I was going to run a 1" m/c single circuit to all 4 corners but it would seem that's too large. My pedal would be harder than a 240 series without the booster. I've got a 3/4" on order...Hopefully that'll work out. I've got the same bias adjuster, waiting in case I need it...
The master cylinder has two seperate circuits. this is the only one I have found that has tandem circuits and is a direct boltup. This MC is only sold in the 1" bore. I intend to split the existing one circuit into a back and a front circuit. The pressure on the pedal was a major concern to me and I asked the Wilwood people about it. They say that this is a good size for max braking with minimum pressure required. The pedal is hard now so any thing will be an improvement. I could try it out by running the existing one circuit on half the new MC and see how it does.. To convert to two circuits, I will have to have two tees, or at least that is how I plan to do it. I may have to change things midstream but I'll just have to deal with it.

245gti

07-04-2006, 02:22 PM

Matt went through all the calculations for me. Of course, it was blah, blah, blah (to me) after a while but here's what I got from our conversation...

It's all relative to the amount of fluid that needs to be moved. A 1" m/c will move more fluid than a smaller one (obviously). If your fluid volume requirements are not that great, the 1" m/s only needs to move a specific distance to accomplish that and your pedal may not give you the needed feedback/modulating to effectively use your brakes. It's got to do with piston area/volume on your calipers too. Again...it was all in the calculations Matt did and we determined a 3/4" m/c would be much more effective. We'll see how it all works out shortly. I hope to have the car on the road in a week or so...

Turborg

07-17-2006, 12:17 AM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/63627885/large.jpg
Sorry about the fuzzy pic but it shows the install well enough. The M/C is part # 260-7563 1" Tandem M/C with remote reservoirs. I decided to put the reservoirs on the M/C for a cleaner install. The valve just below the res is part #260-8419 Compac Knob type Proportioning valve for the rear brakes. The two lines used here are Napa 12" standard thread. I used a plug to seal the old rear brake tie in on the block with the brake light sending unit.
Everything was pretty straight forward under the hood, but it took so fab work under the dash. The Volvo M/C had a clip that kept the M/C push rod from falling out, not so with the Wilwood M/C. I used a a longer bolt on the bottom M/C mount point so it was threaded into the passenger compartment about 3/8". I then used a 1/8" x 3?4" bracket bent 90 degrees with a hole for the bolt. I then secured the bracket with a nut and washer on the protruding mount bolt. On the other end of the bracket I bent a U to catch the brake pedal. The original Volvo push rod was too short, and I had to shorten the one that came with the Wilwood. The pedal is even with the clutch, and has 1/4" free travel before engaging the M/C.
The brakes work great with improved pedal feel over the original set-up. This was a fairly easy install and I feel much better having a duel system. I think that the PO put performance pads on the front as they work better the hotter they get. I can easily lock up the back now. I will have to tune the proportioning valve to get even braking after I put street pads on the front.

FlatWagon83

07-17-2006, 09:27 AM

Turborg

07-17-2006, 10:35 AM

Looks nice, how does it compare in price to the tandem MC from a 140? Was there a lot of modification involved in the actual mounting?

In reading your description it sounded identical to way I stopped the pedal on my dual circuit setup, which is totally worth it for the peace of mind. However, I didn't use a proportioning valve, and am interested to hear how that plays out. I would think it would make a big difference.

As always, nice work.
Thanks for the compliment! As far as the cost, the M/C cost was $109, and the proportioning valve was $45. The lines were around $3 each, so total cost including shipping was under $200 for everything. I bought the items from a company back east who had the best prices, and they were dropped shipped to me from Wildwood in Camarillo(spelling?), Ca. Wildwood will sell directly, but at list price. Everything under the hood was a bolt on as the M/C has the bolts 2 1/4" on center on a vertical mount flange exactly like the original M/C.
Thanks to Dale, 245gti for steering me in the right direction.

Turborg

08-04-2006, 01:48 PM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/64603163/large.jpg
Well I have started the body work. I was originally going to under coat with POR 15, but the stuff is a real hassle to work with. I have decided to strip it to the metal and then put a sealer primer on it. I will make no attempt to do any body work, but with it stripped to the metal and a primer coat, It will be much cheaper to have a pro take care of it. I will drive it as a primered rat rod til I can get it painted. Grill and fenders finished.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/64603229.jpg

gsellstr

08-04-2006, 02:06 PM

Looking good! Glad to see you're making progress on it! If only I was making that kinda progress getting MS on the 140. :)

Think it'll be done in time for the VCOA meet in Tahoe?

Turborg

08-04-2006, 07:58 PM

Looking good! Glad to see you're making progress on it! If only I was making that kinda progress getting MS on the 140. :)

Think it'll be done in time for the VCOA meet in Tahoe?
If I can get it all in primer and the wheels done(polished lips and inserts the color of the car) by then I might take it up there. I hate to show a work in progress but I guess that is what all our cars are, in one way or another. I saw two more two door 122s today. They were at a parts place but looked real good. I need to check them out. The guy has several vintage Volvos. They both had nice chrome and I do need some.

Turborg

09-13-2006, 08:19 PM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/66818905 It takes a lot of work to get it down to the metal! This is all that remains of the old paint.http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/66818680

I picked up the rear power window set-up out of a 240T to change the windows on the 122 to power. Anybody done this before? Input greatly appreciated. Also have a better fan with relay and adjustable thermo to go in soon,

FlatWagon83

09-14-2006, 05:30 AM

I've never had a 242 before, the rear windows were electric? The popouts? That's quite cool, I thought that only came on minivans. What a cool idea, this car is going to be so cool!

Turborg

09-14-2006, 09:24 AM

I've never had a 242 before, the rear windows were electric? The popouts? That's quite cool, I thought that only came on minivans. What a cool idea, this car is going to be so cool!

I should have been more specific. The 240t I took them out of was actually a 4 dr. The rear window regulators are small compared to the front. I don't know how much room there is in the 122 door, plus the glass is more the size of the 244T rear window.
Power rear wing windows-I'll think on that one. It is good customizing Idea!

DaytonAE86

09-20-2006, 10:41 AM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/66818905 It takes a lot of work to get it down to the metal! This is all that remains of the old paint.http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/66818680

Wow, the car looks even better in bare metal:omg: Just keep a few cans of WD40 present, and apply frequently... run the brushed steel look.

Do you have plans to pull the fenders, flare etc, or just leave the body stock?

I picked up the rear power window set-up out of a 240T to change the windows on the 122 to power. Anybody done this before?

Put power windows in a manual window Toyota truck, probably should have swapped the whole door :oops: . Just make sure that you adjust how far the window motor opens and closes so your not stressing the motor and the cable.

It may also be a good idea to just cut the whole inner door skin off, and reweld once everthing is done, working around that was the biggest problem when putting power windows in the Toyota (I swear the two were different inner doorskins). If it were me though, I like the way Merc 190/300 regulators are setup, pretty simple, easy to wire switches, and very reliable.

Turborg

01-26-2007, 08:20 PM

Updated my sig to reflect the way my old car looks now. I have two of the wheels restored and will post pics soon for comments.

Turborg

01-30-2007, 09:34 PM

I am getting started working on the old car again. Today I put on new shoes in the back and pads in the front. It had nearly new brakes on it(they are 13yrs old tho). The brakes are much better as I am pretty sure the PO had racing brakes on it. I intend to drive it mostly on the street so the race brakes had to go.

I also have the replacement ground effects planned out and will start replacing the old stuff soon. I have decided to finish my rims like this. Any feedback welcome!
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/73774647.jpg

gsellstr

01-30-2007, 09:43 PM

Love it!!

klr142

01-30-2007, 11:23 PM

Me likey!

Turborg

02-07-2007, 07:13 PM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/74099851/large.jpg
I have rebuild the air dam and the side ground effects as close as I could to what was there originally. I still have to do something around the rear wheels, but that is a project for another day.

Here is the other side less the ground effects. I did the drivers side first to see how it would look. The passenger side will have to include a exhaust hole.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/74099852.jpg

Another shot of the side with ground effects
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/74099854.jpg

I took about two inches off the spoiler in front that was damaged. I believe the two inches had been added by the previous owner.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/74099850.jpg

Hank Scorpio

02-07-2007, 07:19 PM

Is that just the primer?! OMG looks fantastic!

Turborg

02-07-2007, 07:34 PM

Is that just the primer?! OMG looks fantastic!

Thanks Doug! It is wet today and cars always look better wet. As you probably know, I have all the car stripped to the metal with just a light coat of primer til I get the body work done. I'm looking for input on whether to do the ground effects or not. Harry

gsellstr

02-07-2007, 08:12 PM

It certainly needs something over stock, and I kinda like what you've got going so far!

Hank Scorpio

02-07-2007, 10:39 PM

not sure about the side as much but I like the front quite a bit.

Vol242vo

02-07-2007, 10:51 PM

^^Agreed, like the front but the sides don't look right...

FlatWagon83

02-08-2007, 02:50 PM

Turborg

02-08-2007, 04:31 PM

I'm afraid I agree as well.

MY OPINION ONLY: I would run the front spoiler with a bumper, or at least see how it looks. Side exhaust might be cool, but first the whole thing needs to get a little closer to the ground. Doesn't even have to be super low, just enough to tighten that rather large gap on the fenders. I like those wheels, and think that with the car a little lower they will really look great. Are you keeping the side vents?

I can't put enough disclaimers in this: I love your car, just giving some ideas.

Eric: I value this opinion as I have others you have given me! I asked for input and I welcome it all as I needed it. I was torn between trying to restore the car as it was or to take what I like and change the rest. Opinions from members like Doug, Gary, and yourself mean a lot as I know you have been aware of he car since I bought it. I appreciate all input whether I agree with it or not.
There are actually air bags inside the springs in the back that need removed. The springs probably will let the car ride a little lower. i would like to get it as low as the front at least.
I am keeping the side vents in the front fenders, but may not reinstall the vents that were behind the doors.

some guy

02-09-2007, 12:59 AM

I was torn between trying to restore the car as it was or to take what I like and change the rest.

Do it the way you want! That car has a nice history to it, but it's yours now, so make it the 122 that you want it to be.

...That being said, keep the air dam, ditch the side skirts, and lower it just a little bit to get rid of the gap.

klr142

02-09-2007, 03:18 AM

I haven't seen anyone else mention it yet, but it seems pretty obvious to me that you CAN'T lower it in the back without doing some fender mods. You're definitely going to have clearance issues according to what I see in the pictures.

The side ground effects are cool in an old school kind of way, but they're a bit worthless in these days. I don't know if they actually do anything, they're kind of far inset, but who knows.

Bottom line, the wheels are awesome, the car is awesome, and it's yours. Do what you want!

Pops122

02-22-2007, 07:44 PM

Turborg

02-23-2007, 09:07 AM

I have removed the side ground effects and I like how it looks. I can't lower it more because of the wide offset rims on the back. I took the old air bags out of the springs and it lowered it some. I installed 4 new KYB gas adjust shocks. They are not too stiff and make the car handle better. I thought the shocks were bad but when I got them off, just the rubber was shot. So I have a complete set of 13yr old good gas Bilstein shocks. They look good but they did set all those years. Off to fix the noisy heater blower motor!

gsellstr

02-23-2007, 10:54 AM

You've made some really good progress on that thing Harry! Think you'll have it done for Davis this year? 2 months to go....

Turborg

02-23-2007, 11:14 AM

You've made some really good progress on that thing Harry! Think you'll have it done for Davis this year? 2 months to go....

I sure hope to have it closer to being done by then. I'd be happy if I have all the body work done and ready for paint. There is not that much to do but I haven't done any body work before so it will be a slow learning curve. I plan now to take it to Davis and Carlsen. If I can finish it [unlikely] I'll take it to the West Coast National. I don't think I will take the 242 anywhere except the National.

Turborg

03-22-2007, 08:14 AM

I have been getting estimates to get the 122 repainted. I just had my 242 repainted by insurance so I know the going rates, but 3 to 5K for a quality job still floors me. Several body shops have told me that is almost the minimum for an acceptable job, with truly show quality paint jobs costing thousands more. I guess I am going to have to teach myself body work and have a friend put a paint job on it for me.

gsellstr

03-22-2007, 10:42 AM

I hear ya Harry! I was just amazed at the cost on the 140 (though there was a LOT of body work involved in that job as well between breakin repair and 30 years of little dings).

mavawreck

03-22-2007, 12:58 PM

You may know this, but there is a lot you can do to make a lesser quality paint job look better through wet sanding and buffing once it has hardened. You still may be dealing with less paint of a lower quality.

Turborg

04-18-2007, 08:50 AM

I must say that I am really surprised and pleased how well the 122 handles. I have checked out and repaired the front suspension to the point that I can push it now without worrying about something breaking. I had a bellcrank(?) that was partially seized from setting that I have freed up now. The steering is almost as light as my 242. The car handles really flat and feels solid. I have driven it more than the 242 as of late. I thought when I first bought it that it would be a unique and fun driver, but am very happy with the excellent handling. A two mile stretch of uphill 15% grade on the way to work with lots of switch backs is a lot of fun in scond gear, 3/4 throttle. I just have a few more mechanical things I want to fix. I will be taking the 122 to Davis and Am looking forward to the back roads drive to the show.

850TurboMan

05-03-2007, 08:00 PM

Turborg

05-04-2007, 01:49 AM

Have you done much rebuilding of the suspension? Since this is a '63 does it have the stamped steel rear end? Is braking power sufficient now with the Wilwood install?

Looks sweet...

I'm checking out a '66 122s this weekend...any particular advice for what to keep my eye out for? I really appreciate you documenting your work as its helped me learn quite a bit about these cars.

-Nick
I have replaced a bad tierod end, freed up a rusted bellcrank/idler arm, and installed KYB shocks all round. the car has the original rear end, but I would like to change it to a limited slip/positrac disc brake rear.

The Wilwood cylinder works great, and would be even better with rear discs.

As far as what to look for in a 122s. I would check for play/worn parts in the suspension. Also the body and floor boards for rust/bad repairs. If the car is structurally sound, most everything mechanical are fairly easy repairs. Good Luck Nick and let us know about the 66!

Jordan

05-04-2007, 01:53 AM

I feel like your car needs to go lower. much lower. It looks a lot like an old school Ford. Like one you'd see on American Hot Rod. Its just not European looking. The wheels might be doing it too.

Turborg

05-04-2007, 11:56 AM

I feel like your car needs to go lower. much lower. It looks a lot like an old school Ford. Like one you'd see on American Hot Rod. Its just not European looking. The wheels might be doing it too.

I agree, but several things are keeping me from doing it. The Vector mags cause the wheels to set outside the fenders. The rear wheels are wider that the front. If I dropped the car as is, the fender lips would hit the rear tires a good 2" from the edge. I think this extra width contributes to the cars good handling, but increases the risk of an axle breaking. I thought the car would come down in height when I took the air bags out of the rear springs. It did not, so now I'm thinking the springs need changed to bring the back down. But then the tires will hit the fenders.....So I am kind of just thinking about what I want to do and enjoying the jacked up 60s racer look as I can't do much about it right now. I do have a new Voxx set of rims that would move the tires inboard a lot, but need a spacer to make them fit. Thanks for the input.

850TurboMan

05-04-2007, 12:06 PM

I would like to change it to a limited slip/positrac disc brake rear.

Well, if/ when you decide to do this, please document it well, because that would be something that I am very interested in doing eventually as well. Would you use a 240 rear end and just cut the brackets off the current 122 axle and weld them onto the 240 axle?

Turborg

05-04-2007, 12:41 PM

Well, if/ when you decide to do this, please document it well, because that would be something that I am very interested in doing eventually as well. Would you use a 240 rear end and just cut the brackets off the current 122 axle and weld them onto the 240 axle?

I have a Ford T-5 trans in my 242 and am leaning toward putting one in the 122s. I have a M-41 for it, but may sell it. I'm thinking a Ford rearend to go with the T-5. My present rear Vector mags will also fit the Ford. This combined with the bulletproof B-20 engine would be quite the combo. With this setup, you could drive it as hard as you wanted. And it would also be a great highway cruiser.

850TurboMan

05-04-2007, 05:44 PM

How much modification of the tunnel do you think would be required to fit the T-5? The ford rear-end swap sounds like a sweet idea...

Turborg

05-04-2007, 06:43 PM

How much modification of the tunnel do you think would be required to fit the T-5? The ford rear-end swap sounds like a sweet idea...I'm hoping it will fit right in as my car already has the shifter in the correct place for a T-5. The PO installed a custom tunnel and a 1800 shifter. As for the rear end, some welding required but it shouldn't be too hard

Jordan

05-04-2007, 06:55 PM

I agree, but several things are keeping me from doing it. The Vector mags cause the wheels to set outside the fenders. The rear wheels are wider that the front. If I dropped the car as is, the fender lips would hit the rear tires a good 2" from the edge. I think this extra width contributes to the cars good handling, but increases the risk of an axle breaking. I thought the car would come down in height when I took the air bags out of the rear springs. It did not, so now I'm thinking the springs need changed to bring the back down. But then the tires will hit the fenders.....So I am kind of just thinking about what I want to do and enjoying the jacked up 60s racer look as I can't do much about it right now. I do have a new Voxx set of rims that would move the tires inboard a lot, but need a spacer to make them fit. Thanks for the input.

Thats what it is! The wheels are offset from themselves. Yeah, I think a new set of wheels that allow you to drop it down wont make it look so American.

You're car is cool though. Good work. More than I can dream of doing at this point.

850TurboMan

06-19-2007, 02:36 AM

Any news??

Turborg

07-01-2007, 07:18 AM

Any news??

I haven't done anything to the car lately. I drove it to work tonight because I had left the lights on on the other car. I need new base gaskets as the ones on the car are sucking air, but it does make the exhaust cackle when you let off of it. I have read a lot of the mopar cheap paint job thread http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 and am tempted to give it a try on this car as the cheapest estimate I got was for 4K to paint it. I did get an estimate of $1500 to get it ready to paint. Thats all the body work done, holes welded and a epoxy primer applied. I may go that route and try the painting technique.

dmax99

07-01-2007, 09:58 PM

Seems to me that if you were able to do the bodywork yourself, and get it ready to spray that would yield the best results.The body can be fixed without alot of hi-tech (and expensive) equiptment.You can give it the time required to do a nice job.With painting the right equiptment and skills are key to a good job.Plus with cost of material you only want to do it once.My .02....David

s_r_c

07-11-2007, 11:31 PM

Hi Harry,

Even Maaco will lay good paint, if you do the prep work and hand it over... and probably re-do the post work. Do it in stages, don't leave it to just a paint shop.

You could get away for under $500 if you can square yourself with losing the time, and have a very decent scheme.

but hey, I think the car has a nice look to it in primer. To me though, if it runs, it's done.

Redwood Chair

07-11-2007, 11:41 PM

Check out Miracle in Richmond,
they do a good job.

s_r_c

07-15-2007, 03:52 PM

They quoted $300 or $280 to do the 544, for the PO.
With your endorsement, hmm. I'll check it out.
That one does need to be prettier.

Turborg

10-28-2007, 05:41 PM

I haven't done much to the car lately nor have I driven it much. A car without air in California is not much fun to drive in the summer.
I'm thinking about selling my Vector wheels and the Weber 42DCOEs and buying a set of the Mikunis for my car. I have a source for the stock wheels and would like to get them or something like them so I can get my car lowered down. I'm tired of the 70s Jacked up in the Back look.
I did tune it today for a ride around the area. Wine grapes are starting to replace other agriculture around here. I love the fall colors of the different varieties.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/fall_in_n_california

Turborg

11-15-2007, 03:04 PM

She is down on power and No 4 cylinder has exhaust leaking back through the car. And not just a little, going down the road it is like an open header on that one cylinder. Both valves are the same height as the other cylinders, and the valve adjustment and valve timing is right on the money. I have another head in the garage ready to go so I may just put it on. Any guesses what I will find?

Turborg

01-07-2008, 01:46 AM

I finally recieved the last of the parts needed to replace the camshaft. My B20 uses Isky202H solid lifters, the same as a small block chevy. I ordered the eight lifter set and it was backordered for a month. I should have just ordered a full set and had them within days, with a backup set for future cam changes. Oh well, live and learn.
I measured the new D cam I got against the one that I took out. The # 4 exhaust lob had completely failed, but most of the others measured less than the D cam. And I am pretty sure that the cam that came out was the R sport version of yesteryear. So my feeling that the car never ran like I thought it should had some validity. I look forward to a break in the stormy weather we are having to install the parts.

Canuck

01-29-2008, 05:13 PM

Well, if/ when you decide to do this, please document it well, because that would be something that I am very interested in doing eventually as well. Would you use a 240 rear end and just cut the brackets off the current 122 axle and weld them onto the 240 axle?

It's been done...both Dale (Volvo245gti) and I have this set-up. He's had the 240 with TrueTrac in his car for a couple of years and mine is a bushing away from being finished.

Painted with POR-15
http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11792-1/IMG_1781.JPG

Custom suspension arms.
http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11798-1/IMG_1788.JPG

Polished housing.

http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/11800-1/IMG_1790.JPG

Turborg

10-06-2008, 11:15 PM

Dropped it off today. I spent a couple hours removing all the glass, trim, etc. I wanted to do it since I will be putting it all back. Learned a lot about the car. I have a question about the wing window seals. They contain a steel frame and I am wondering if that comes with the new seal or is somehow reused. It should be done in less than a month.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/104195078.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/104195081.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/104195086.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/104195083.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/104195088.jpg

Canuck

10-06-2008, 11:51 PM

Excellent news...can't wait to see the finished product. Did you ever make any decisions on the rear axle?

Turborg

10-07-2008, 12:51 AM

Excellent news...can't wait to see the finished product. Did you ever make any decisions on the rear axle?
I really haven't yet. I am going to this place that buys rims from several junkyards and see if I can get rims that will put the tires back under the fenders with a 240 rear end, as I want to lower the car quite a bit. I am going to sell the current rims and the M-41 trans spare that I have. I want to get another T-5z as I really like the close ratios.

Turborg

10-16-2008, 08:36 PM

The car has been totally stripped of the primer I had on it. The hood as been repaired and all the holes for the volvo letters welded shut. The inset around the bottom of the rear window for the trim has been smoothed out. I am going with the trimless gaskets for the windshield and the rear window. I have eliminated all the side trim and the holes are welded up. I have decided to have the door handles, trunk handle, headlight rings, and the rest of the chrome pieces powdercoated black. Also getting the back bumper done the same. It is much cheaper than chrome and I think I will like the blacked out look. I am going to redo the interior all black too. Replacing all the seals and just ordered some of them from IPD. Rest will come from Swedish Treasures. The rear side window seals are no longer available that I have been able to find. Seals are available to make them fixed windows and this is what I probably will do. I have decided to paint it the same color as my 242, code 42 California/Cascade white. I was able to salvage the back glass but will have to buy a new windshield. Looks like it will be done by Thanksgiving. Can't wait!

Turborg

11-12-2008, 09:20 PM

http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/105864303.jpg
right side
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/105864305.jpg
left side

I'm really pleased with the guy doing body work on my old car.

Turborg

01-28-2009, 06:12 PM

Replaced the rear springs with stock springs. The stock spring was 3 1/2" shorter than what was in there! I only have about a 2" gap above the tire now. Pics are coming but I want to get a little more done before I show it off.

RedFridge

01-28-2009, 06:46 PM

Love this build!
Way to go.

Gene_GaTech

01-29-2009, 11:48 AM

good luck with the body work. We are in the same stages of builds on our amazons!!!!

Redwood Chair

01-29-2009, 11:53 AM

:cheers:
Looking good.
+1 on the color choice.
#42 is my favorite color on the old Volvos.

BrickBorg612

01-29-2009, 01:04 PM

So nice! I love the 122s, and yours will be nothing short of epic.

Wagner

01-29-2009, 01:39 PM

You spray painted the POR-15 on those parts, yes? Or does it really level out that nicely?

Turborg

02-08-2009, 03:59 AM

I have the windshield, rear window, and rear quarter windows installed with new seals. I am starting of the doors now. It should be really quiet now going down the road. I will be changing out the side exhaust to duel exhaust in the rear. Two of my buddies who repair old cars say that a high compression 4cyl sounds really good with duels. They will be split after the header. Any body have an opinion on the exhaust? Side exhaust is in the way of one of the jacking points and loud, so I want to do something with it and I think I would like the duels.

Turborg

02-12-2009, 02:32 AM

I got some good news today. The guy who did the body work and paint on my car came by and said he is renting a shop nearby and wants to redo some of it. I had just about given up and was starting to accepting a less than stellar job. I did get some of the seals in today. It goes very slow but will sped up as I learn how to do it. Seal installs can get pretty frustrating. Pics coming soon.!

Turborg

02-12-2009, 11:30 AM

good luck with the body work. We are in the same stages of builds on our amazons!!!!

I have been following your build with lots of interest. I knew you would like the Webers! My first drive in my car I went thru an area with high board fences on each side. I cannot think of an automotive expirence I have ever enjoyed more. The roar of the Webers, the headers and cam coming on at about 4k, and all of it happening in an echo chamber!
I really like the stance on your car. I need to do the fronts to have stockers all the way around. I hope the front changes like the back did.
The $1000 dollar "race" 16 valve motor seen on TB a while back would be easy to create for a lot less money. A high compression stroker 16 valve with these carbs, a narrowed Ford rearend, and of course a T-5 would be a treat in cars like ours.
http://www.webernorthamerica.com/50_DCO_SP_Weber_Carb.html
Keep up the good work and enjoy your 122!

Gene_GaTech

02-12-2009, 12:46 PM

I have been following your build with lots of interest. I knew you would like the Webers! My first drive in my car I went thru an area with high board fences on each side. I cannot think of an automotive expirence I have ever enjoyed more. The roar of the Webers, the headers and cam coming on at about 4k, and all of it happening in an echo chamber!
I really like the stance on your car. I need to do the fronts to have stockers all the way around. I hope the front changes like the back did.
The $1000 dollar "race" 16 valve motor seen on TB a while back would be easy to create for a lot less money. A high compression stroker 16 valve with these carbs, a narrowed Ford rearend, and of course a T-5 would be a treat in cars like ours.
http://www.webernorthamerica.com/50_DCO_SP_Weber_Carb.html
Keep up the good work and enjoy your 122!
I remember when we put them on and the car wouldn't start for a while and it was increasingly disappointing with every try. We were in a covered garage with great reverberation. And when it came to life, no lie, i got chills down my spine. That noise is something else!!!!!!!!

Turborg

02-23-2009, 11:29 AM

Got the trunk seal, drivers door and window seals, Going to work on the rest of the weather proofing and front end assembly today. Its been too long since I have driven it! Gray spots are fake bullet holes to hide blims.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/109426767/large.jpg

malloy1

03-09-2009, 11:34 PM

Did you replace the side popout windows with fixed windows?

Paul

Turborg

03-14-2009, 09:26 AM

Posted in the main showroom forum but here it is. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=164431
Todays project is to clean up and remove the interior. Under the cover over the back

Turborg

03-14-2009, 09:32 AM

Posted in the main showroom forum but here it is. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=164431
Todays project is to clean up and remove the interior. Under the cover over the back the car is a time capsule to at least 1980 and possibly before. Of course there will pics to follow.
I have also picked up a complete 75 B 20 and trans. I am going to have the block bored to accept the POs setup. I have saved the crank, pistons, and rods from the original block. I think the pistons are 92 MM. I'm thinking this motor + a rare set of 50mm Webers for the 122S and the current setup from the 122s in the 66 544 sport I have been coveting. Volvo dreaming is so much fun.........

Turborg

03-14-2009, 11:19 PM

Pulled out a bag of material that must have weighed 80 pounds. It had heavy carpet over a pad over heavy pad over vinyl flooring. Floor boards have a few patches of surface rust. I plan on wirebrushing then painting with black Rustoliem
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/110210499.jpg
Fawn was the original color of the car. No one has been in this back seat since the 70s! It took a while to figure out how to pull the interior. The back deck actually was pretty well built with 1/2 plywood. Tomorrow I am going to get the doors put together and paint some interior parts. Also try to polish out the windshield and get the wipers and washers installed. I may make it to Davis after all.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/110210500.jpg
I think I will leave out the back until I get it wired for stereo and some new speakers installed. Plan on pulling the console tomorrow. And fix that shifter boot that has never stayed on.
http://www.pbase.com/turborg/image/110210501.jpg