head is done (pics)

[quinn_volvo]

Got my head put together last night. It came out better than I expected. Here's some pics.
5 angle valve job
http://www.pbase.com/quinnvolvo/image/55178888.jpg
springs in
http://www.pbase.com/quinnvolvo/image/55178896.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/quinnvolvo/image/55178899.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/quinnvolvo/image/55178901.jpg
be very careful with 180# seated pressure (210 open)
http://www.pbase.com/quinnvolvo/image/55178907.jpg


Ahhh.. looking good.
http://www.pbase.com/quinnvolvo/image/55178913.jpg
.011" clearance

[Vol242vo]

Are you the dude with the cig? Nice build up!

[impulse922]

Wow looks very nice, btw which head it that?

[Homer]

Are you the dude with the cig? Nice build up!
I'm going to say, no. Unless his B-day is wrong on his profile. It says he is 18.

[Canuckvolvo]

Head #? Cam? What was done to get the cc's to 54cc's?

[quinn_volvo]

head is a 398, ipd cam, took material out of the chambers, polished, re-bead blasted to see imperfections, and cc'd. 4 & 3 are ~ 54.25cc, 1 & 2 are 54 (not a big deal), I wrote them on the head so I wouldn't forget.

[Yea, Right]

Valve clearances are too tight.

[YLD244]

Valve clearances will also change when head is torqued down.

[740Weapon]

you forgot to port it.

[Billiam500]

cigarette + garage + oily car parts = good idea

[hockey930]

wow, that looks awesome.
Eamonn

[Unregistered]

you forgot to port it.

head is ported & gasket matched, new guides shaved down, new valves w/ 5 angle vj, springs from hell, cam.

As for the valve clearance, we'll see.

I didn't really see it necessary to go bigger valves because 1) it's already a good flowing head, and 2) unless I HOGged it out, it would be a waste of time and money.

Thanks for the crit.

cigarette + garage + oily car parts = good idea.

idiot.

[The Aspirator]

I hope you don't think that anyone here is reaming on you bud, cause I highly doubt they are. I bet ya every criticism here is tongue in cheek.

Anyways, great work! That should be a riot. But .011 IS too tight, it's supposed to be around .014 intake .016 exhaust, maybe a smidge tighter would be good. Ohh and I'll share a great tip I leared a few months ago... If your exhaust studs are as crappy as 90% of all the old 240 heads out there, a GREAT replacement is the cam studs from a crappy spare head. You know the 10 studs that bold the cam down, and they're almost always in perfect condition. They're a good ~10mm longer too which makes it wicked easy to double nut every stud.

John

[240Psycho]

thats a nice set up, i love clean parts, where did you find those springs?

[impulse922]

cigarette + garage + oily car parts = good idea
You forgot the beer in pic 5

[EvanSargent]

As for the valve clearance, we'll see.

Now you're the idiot

[kahlua240]

You forgot the beer in pic 5

and the fact that oil wont ignite from a cigarette.. nor will gasoline. hmmm

[boostdemon]

i think what they're trying to say politely is that .011 is just tight enough that when things heat up, it expands and in higher RPM's you WILL get premature wear which will cause problems. Better to get it corrected now, then when its already installed... would be a shame to kill a beautiful head and hours of work with something as silly as a clearance issue.


hey fart knockers, its a thread about motors.. how about stfu about the cig. dumbasses lol

[mAydAy]

Dana nailed it with the cig crap.
Fix clearances, metal expands wiht heat, its just gonna get tigheter and thats just gonna make it wear.

Looks good though!

[quinn]

maybe I am an idiot.

green manual said 138 - 158. Did not specify warm or cold engine.

that's not the right spec?

What are the exact clearance specs?

Thankyou.

[rom]

uhh. gas will ignite from a cigarette... pour some gas on the ground and throw a lit cig into it... it burns.

[740ATL]

uhh. gas will ignite from a cigarette... pour some gas on the ground and throw a lit cig into it... it burns.

no sh*t sherlock... but I dont' seen any pools of gasoline on that machinists bench do you??? hmmm??

people, enough with the f-ing cigarette comments already! JC! this is exactly why people don't like to post in perf or showroom because there's always some know-it-all with a power trip getting off half a world away by anonymously criticizing someone via computer screen.

if you don't have anything nice or constructive to say, then kindly stfu.

Quinn... nice pics... I've seen your pbase account and looks like you've got a great project on your hands... I can't wait to see it in the car and running.... and the car looks great btw with the single squares..

Mike

[Billiam500]

uhh. gas will ignite from a cigarette... pour some gas on the ground and throw a lit cig into it... it burns.
No it won't. They tried it on mythbusters. It won't even ignite when you push the cig into the puddle of gas.
Jezz you guys need to learn to take a joke. I thought I didn't need to add "OMGWTF!!1" to my post to make sure no one thought was seroius. do you see and oil or gas around the workbench(assuming the cig will light it)?

[Wagner]

uhh. gas will ignite from a cigarette... pour some gas on the ground and throw a lit cig into it... it burns.

DO NOT TRY THIS:
If you have a container full of gasoline and it has been tightly closed so that the gasoline could not have been vaporised (no gas-fumes in the air i mean), it will not ignite if you throw a cigarette or a match in there fast enough. The cig will simply go out. BUT DO NOT TRY THIS. Playing with gas and fire = ugly faces with no hair and lots and lots of pain.

Anyhow, on the subject.
I have the Volvo original "Reparation och underhåll: Specifikationer" -service manual here and it says the following on the subject of valve clearances:
cold engine: 0,35mm - 0,40mm (0,0138 in - 0,0158 in)
warm engine: 0,40mm - 0,45mm (0,0158 in - 0,0177 in)

[The Aspirator]

green manual said 138 - 158. Did not specify warm or cold engine.Sooooo, if green manual suggested .0138-.0158, why'd you do .011? ;-)

Ohh, and I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but in the green manuals DO NOT TRUST THE INCH CONVERSIONS! Only trust the metric specs, find an online conversion calculator and write in all the inch conversions yourself, as MANY of them are wrong. Tom Fritz led me on to this, and he was right. I think the only ones wrong are the crankshaft and connecting rod numbers, but check for yourself.

[Neil Peart]

looking spiffy quinn. Hopefully it's all done when I get back from school:badboy: . The 242 is going under the knife when I get back also. What was done to your block? Im looking for ideas and such. If you get done before I get back, id like to know how you like the feel of the motor. If it's good, i'll probally make a clone, hehe.

[quinn_volvo]

Adjustments will be made one the engine is in the car.

my goal for the engine is 9k-10k+ every shift. In order to make this feasible, strong springs and a little tight on the lash is necessary because 1) I don't have a wild cam, 2) I don't have racing valves, 3) I don't want float, 4) I want some top end or 10k plus on the tach is useless..

Neil,
block is a one off.

[mAydAy]

Adjustments will be made one the engine is in the car.

my goal for the engine is 9k-10k+ every shift. In order to make this feasible, strong springs and a little tight on the lash is necessary because 1) I don't have a wild cam, 2) I don't have racing valves, 3) I don't want float, 4) I want some top end or 10k plus on the tach is useless..

Neil,
block is a one off.

Not happening with that head. You'll drop a valve. Stock retainers and valves, you're pushing it when you get much beyond 8-8500. You're running factory valves, probably factory retainers, most likely factory guides and a small cam? What are you trying to do? That bottom end better be nuts, because no stock bottom end is going to handle those revs, you'll be wrecking rods, maybe wristpins, who knows what else with those heavy pistons, and most likely insanely heavy rods also if you're sticking with the B21/b23 bottom end. Improved rod:stroke ratio also I hope?

High RPM still needs proper lash. Too tight, you just destroy em 4x as fast at twice the revs.

And do you honestly think you'll gain power at those RPM's? Especially with a small cam you'll gain nothing by doing it.

Do you have a nice intake manifold and header to go with it? You'll need it if you want any chance at taking advantage of those RPM's.

[towerymt]

Listen to Andy, he's a pro.

[quinn_volvo]

Not happening with that head. You'll drop a valve. Stock retainers and valves, you're pushing it when you get much beyond 8-8500. You're running factory valves, probably factory retainers, most likely factory guides and a small cam? What are you trying to do? That bottom end better be nuts, because no stock bottom end is going to handle those revs, you'll be wrecking rods, maybe wristpins, who knows what else with those heavy pistons, and most likely insanely heavy rods also if you're sticking with the B21/b23 bottom end. Improved rod:stroke ratio also I hope?

High RPM still needs proper lash. Too tight, you just destroy em 4x as fast at twice the revs.

And do you honestly think you'll gain power at those RPM's? Especially with a small cam you'll gain nothing by doing it.

Do you have a nice intake manifold and header to go with it? You'll need it if you want any chance at taking advantage of those RPM's.

Relax.

factory valves, yes.

factory steel retainers, yes (from a 405, not that it matters). However, I did purchase some aluminum retainers, which I did not like.

new bronze guides, yes. (factory? is there aftermarket other than os?)

The bottom end is pretty nuts.
bored .04 over
h beams
custom ross pistons & pins (sent them a 40 over b21a piston, told them to make 4, and take the dish out) each weigh a little over 400g
crank was ground, polished (not that that matters either)
made a stud girdle for the mains

I did some math on improving my rod ratio. came up with a 6.085" rod.
I didn't feel it was necessary to get that involved, so I settled with 5.7 and worked around it.

intake is a b21f, which will be sporting not one but two throttle bodies.
exhaust is a proturbo manifold
turbo is a holset hy35w

I think my goals are realistic.

On a side note, This is not where I wanted this thread to go.

[mAydAy]

First, I wanted to preface this by saying I'm not trying to be savage or attack you, I'd just hate to everything fail and render it all useless.

Oversized guides, worth while. You can survive without though.

Bottom end sounds good and the rest of it, not sure I personally would be trying to adapt somethign to the B21F intake manifold because its plenum volume will be incorrect, but it is good 'nuff.

The valves were never meant for that kind of stress by any means, and thats pushing even very nice valves and retainers over the limit. Stock valves and keepers use a 3 groove setup, which doesn't bite into the valve and allows it to rotate around. This often causes problems in racing applications at high RPMs and the valves will wear in an odd manner and form burrs. Did you magnaflux the valves atleast?

Its just a flat out lot of stress on the retainers, more than they're meant for.

Anyways by that RPM you are way off cam, not making any power....

[boostdemon]

i say go for it... i have yet to hear of anyone on this board or others for that matter that have built a high-rev redblock (10k+).

just make sure to do your research and double check it, we'd all hate to see you trash that thing. do a really good job of balancing that thing... also need to address the harmonics of it as well

if you pull it off, do it with Individual throttle bodies and little to no flywheel so it sounds like an indy car!

[2muchboost4u]

i say go for it to, as long as you know that she might not hold, but i havent really seen anyone take a redblock that high.... i only go to 7 on mine, but 10? damn. im sure she can take it :).... good luck, hope she holds

[Neil Peart]

those pistions sound pricey to risk it. 8000K and an S.A.M cam would work wonders. But if your set on that goal, go for it. I just want to be there when she wakes up hehe. what management are you going to be running?