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koenvbr
07-26-2003, 12:38 PM
I decided to buy my friends '68 142 (no engine and gearbox in it) The car is from april '68 so I can make a legal engine swap. After may '68 cars got documents from the car manufacturers which said wat was allowed to do with the car.

I'm gonna use a B21ET from a wrecked 245 put a B20 oilpan and pump on it, couple it on a m400 gearbox and a 164 rearaxle.

Hope to start with the works after I finished my school exams, cause I've got to rewrite some. I would like to drive with it in september and have some fun untill I got work and I can start working again on the amazon.

iadr
07-28-2003, 12:48 AM
....

koenvbr
07-28-2003, 11:30 AM
[quote:acb3915bf6]gear box won't fit[/quote:acb3915bf6]

With some welding and cutting on the bellhousings I have it will fit

volvorsport
07-28-2003, 12:57 PM
if you have a 140 series bellhousing , that would make it fit wouldnt it ?

I didnt know that M400/410 had an integral bellhousing , and since you are running the engine upright , everything else should fit , only the input shaft is different , and youll need the clutch etc

koenvbr
07-28-2003, 06:57 PM
if you have a 140 series bellhousing , that would make it fit wouldnt it ?

I didnt know that M400/410 had an integral bellhousing , and since you are running the engine upright , everything else should fit , only the input shaft is different , and youll need the clutch etc

I haven't compared the bellhousings yet, I remember that somebody once told me that a combination of 2 bellhousings needed to be maded if you go for a m400. Or is this with another swap?

VikingTh0r
07-29-2003, 01:28 PM
Where are you getting a k cam for $35?

mikep
07-29-2003, 02:30 PM
Sounds like a good plan!
Keep us posted.

koenvbr
07-29-2003, 06:16 PM
Where are you getting a k cam for $35?

At volvo junkyards, the B23E engines can be found easy were I life, used parts are fairly cheap to


sounds like a good plan!
Keep us posted.

I will, mid august I hope to begin with the works

HP
07-30-2003, 12:11 PM
[quote="koenvbr"]

I'm gonna use a B21ET from a wrecked 245 put a B20 oilpan and pump on it,
quote]

Does that oil pan fit straight to b21 engine, or do you have to do some modifications?

mikep
07-30-2003, 05:26 PM
They are exactly the same bolt pattern.
I have not looked at the pump bolt-up.

koenvbr
07-30-2003, 06:05 PM
I have not looked at the pump bolt-up.

Me neither, but I guess it's a bolt-on job, if not it can't be so hard to let it fit

MattP
07-30-2003, 06:14 PM
It is a direct bolt on for the B23FT block. I assume the B21 is the same.

mikep
07-30-2003, 09:13 PM
B21 and B230 pumps interchange.

iadr
07-31-2003, 05:30 PM
As many know I'm doing this mod- (OHC into older car).

The oil pumps bolt in place of any other- you'd use the b20 pump or at least the b20 pump 'pickup/screen' casting.

Problem is getting the transfer tube to work. I prefer not to weld to bend a part so esssential as that (and so much work to r & r if something goes wrong). I'm told the transfer tube from a b21 in the years prior to the bulged pan will work. Thus I have a wanted ad up in a couple places for a 76-78 b21 oil pump transfer tube. Also they are ~30 from Volvo, so if I don't get a reply in a week or two, I'll just buy one.

koenvbr
10-24-2003, 02:24 PM
It's been a while since my last post. But here's are some pics of the 142 project. At the moment I'm finishing my engine mountsn then I'll begin with the swap of the 164 front- and rearaxle.

The pics can be found on the top of this page


http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/pictures

JE Jr
10-25-2003, 06:57 PM
You'll need this bellhouse to fit a M400 on a upright redblock (B18-B230)
www.pbase.com/jejr/inbox

I think the part no is 381167, it was only on P1800 1970, and some special 140's...

Ok, when you're looking at that page you can see the Volvo Competition Service kit with 25mm front and 20mm rrar Swaybar! ...For 140 of course ;)

koenvbr
03-15-2004, 06:00 PM
Putting the last work on the axles at the moment and waiting for my wheels to arrive somewhere next week. The brakes are the next thing to take care of and since I've got a job now, the parts I needed can be purchased faster.

Picture of one of the wheels :p



http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104154.JPG/wheel.JPG

Benjam83
03-16-2004, 12:14 PM
I
want
those
wheels!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

sounds good man. keep us posted

jiminy14
03-17-2004, 11:57 PM
what is the differnce between an m400 and m410 ????
manual vs. automatic???
james

fidel
03-18-2004, 01:05 AM
m400 = 4speed
m410 = 4speed + OD

koenvbr
03-30-2004, 12:04 PM
Fitted wheels and it looked nice

first attemp of fitting the engine and also the first problem showed up

- intake manifold hits brake booster and steering column (same problem as with the P1800 I think)

Chigga 744SE
03-30-2004, 03:54 PM
hook up w/the rims!!!!!!!!!!

sinc_nick
03-31-2004, 01:48 AM
anyway you would want to send a k cam my way, how much whould you charge if you did... thaks for any help in advance

koenvbr
03-31-2004, 11:43 AM
hook up w/the rims!!!!!!!!!!


http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/lowbudget142turbo.msnw

pics were taken with camcorder so bad quality, you can see that the engine is laying a little bit twisted that was the lowest I could get. Think I will do it with a B230ET manifolf, the throttle body is on the lower side I thought.

MattP
03-31-2004, 12:10 PM
Did you get a chance to weigh the wheels? What size tires did you use? Cool project.

Matt

koenvbr
03-31-2004, 04:12 PM
Did you get a chance to weigh the wheels? What size tires did you use? Cool project.

Matt


not yet, but I've still two wheels witout tires on (I didn'tforget :) )

Tires are Pirelli P6000 215/45R17 91WRF



[QUOTE=sinc_nick]anyway you would want to send a k cam my way, how much whould you charge if you did... thaks for any help in advance

I'll look around for a cam, it has been a while ago since my last visit

Chigga 744SE
03-31-2004, 07:10 PM
where you got the wheels from?

if you can get me a set, I WILL buy it from you in the summer.

MikeB23ft
03-31-2004, 07:58 PM
Hey, I'm loving the 142 turbo idea. I wish I had the resources/skill/tools to try something like that. Anyway, cool project. And where did you come up with a .60 turbo on a 90 manifold for 200 bucks? score!

koenvbr
04-01-2004, 11:03 AM
where you got the wheels from?

if you can get me a set, I WILL buy it from you in the summer.


I did a swap: one of my race axles with the wheels and 275euros on top.


And where did you come up with a .60 turbo on a 90 manifold for 200 bucks? score!

bought it from the guy which raced with 240's over here (the owner of the S60 with B230FT)
He quitted racing and did a garage sale for me :p

I actually bought 2 of them ;)

Chigga 744SE
04-01-2004, 02:10 PM
ahhhhhhhhhhh damn, bastard.

koenvbr
04-03-2004, 11:59 AM
some progress pics, turbo looks nice, don't you think :p

Intake manifold is gonna be a custom one or either I do need to customize the steering column

EDIT: pics removed

Chigga 744SE
04-03-2004, 03:19 PM
I think the engine bay looks beautiful, the Polaris definetly makes the car looks much more ugly, so I suggest you sell it to me sometime soon.

koenvbr
04-03-2004, 08:31 PM
I think the engine bay looks beautiful, the Polaris definetly makes the car looks much more ugly, so I suggest you sell it to me sometime soon.

when the wheels are boring me I give you a call :p

koenvbr
04-04-2004, 01:06 PM
Someone has a picture of a B21E/B23E GLT intake manifold?

koenvbr
04-09-2004, 10:42 AM
just finished with machining the pistons, 1mm has been removed.

EDIT: pics are removed


next step polishing, jippie

koenvbr
04-17-2004, 02:55 PM
whoahahaha,

After searching for 2 weeks I found a K-jet injection from the GLT's. And guess what...it fits and don't hits the steering column. I also ordered my springs and Koni's today.

The Aspirator
04-19-2004, 07:52 AM
Awesome progress man! You're really defining what it is to be a true turbo bricks member...... As much cool stuff as you can for as cheap as possible!! Way to go!

John

jiminy14
04-21-2004, 02:08 AM
konis are expensive dude. i am impressed. i thought that the amazon turbo budget didn't allow for such expenditures??!?!!?!?!!! jk i am jsut jealous.

james

koenvbr
04-22-2004, 02:49 PM
konis are expensive dude. i am impressed. i thought that the amazon turbo budget didn't allow for such expenditures??!?!!?!?!!! jk i am jsut jealous.

james


I pay 112euros for 2 front shocks and 132euros for the rear ones (got a good discount) and the springs I pay 110euros.


(can the topics name be editted? Since I probably going the stay with the 142 and leave the other amazon for what it is)

koenvbr
04-27-2004, 02:22 PM
today my springs arrived, so the car comes 4cm closer to the ground. Hope those wheels will disapear a bit in the rear fenders when I'm going to mount them. I also removed the interieur and like I expected the previous owners worked on it already. Almost racelook now, just a rollcage is missing :p I also got a digital photocamera now so I can take better pictures. the page were I post my pictures is down so I link better links tomorrow

http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/lowbudget142turbo.msnw?Page=2

Mediocre Racing
04-27-2004, 10:29 PM
I'm getting ready to do the same swap.My girlfriends dad is going to sell me his '86 turbo wagon for $200.It good to know it's a pretty simple swap.

koenvbr
05-12-2004, 11:29 AM
got some new ex-group-a stuff in my garage for my 142 project, didn't pay much for this setup either. For my 531 head I ordered new 38mm exhaust valves from ford, later this week I'm going to drill the K-jet holes in it.


http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/clutchpressureplate.msnw?Page=Last

koenvbr
05-22-2004, 04:27 PM
at the moment I'm finishing my rear axle, so when my poly bushings/new discs arrive I can mount the those parts right away. Next week I hope to start with the front axle, once this is finished I can mount the axles. The bodywork needs some attention cause the previous owners did some "quick" welding on it.


http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/lowbudget142turbo.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=157

http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/lowbudget142turbo.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=158

http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/lowbudget142turbo.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=144

mikep
05-22-2004, 08:57 PM
Good to see so much progress!

tjts1
05-22-2004, 09:17 PM
Nice project. I enjoyed looking through your photo albums. The S60 B23ET is choice. Keep up the good work.

Sean
05-23-2004, 12:18 PM
I'm getting ready to do the same swap.My girlfriends dad is going to sell me his '86 turbo wagon for $200.It good to know it's a pretty simple swap.
Are you smoking crack?.. anyway once you do it you can tell us how easy it is...

Sean

MikeHardy
05-23-2004, 01:39 PM
just finished with machining the pistons, 1mm has been removed.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/21351754.JPG/piston2.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/21351738.JPG/piston1.JPG


next step polishing, jippie
what you machine them for

volvoracing77
05-23-2004, 02:34 PM
Awesome project!!! Sounds like a lot of fun. If you can get a hold of him.... there is a guy on this Board named Erik, "VolvoBub" who installed a K-jeted B230ft into his 145. He also posts on Brickboard. Really nice guy. He mounted the motor vertical and used the M40 tranny. He was able to use all the stock Manifolds...and stock steering setup.... but had to remove the brake booster to clear intake manifold. I think I remember him having problems fitting the B20 oil pump on the B230 block. anyway... he really did a great job on it. I wish I had that car.

-Bryan

linuxman51
05-23-2004, 02:42 PM
whats the land mine in the front driver's fender well for? :)

Sweet setup, can't wait to hear bout it when you get done!

koenvbr
05-24-2004, 11:41 AM
what you machine them for

it lowers the compression, now it schould be about 7:1, haven't tested it yet since the engine isn't rebuilded yet.

Koen

MikeHardy
05-24-2004, 11:44 AM
yeah but you've taken material from around the edges which will of killed your squish and cut down turbulance and burn rate with the chamber,

you might of been better leaving the edges stock and making the dish a bit deeper, the slow burn can also increase the chance of random pinging with the mxiture being sparked off by other hot spots.

koenvbr
05-24-2004, 02:48 PM
I took it from the edge, cause I there's more material beneath it. The dish was a little bit dangerous in my opinion. Don't know how thick the material is on those places. It's my first turbo engine and if something goes wrong I must learn it the hard way I suppose.

MikeHardy
05-25-2004, 03:48 AM
yeah i know that, but around the edge is where the piston to head area gets the most squish action. have you read this thread

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=1549&highlight=squish+burn

koenvbr
05-25-2004, 05:11 PM
yeah i know that, but around the edge is where the piston to head area gets the most squish action. have you read this thread

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=1549&highlight=squish+burn

Haven't read this one, guess cause I wasn't really busy with the turbo stuff back then. I had to read lots of sentences several times, these kinds of threads are sometimes difficult for me to understand completly, mainly cause of the more technical word use and words I haven't seen before. :s

MattP
05-25-2004, 08:51 PM
While it is an interesting post, it isn't totally relevant. You have stated that you project is low budget. If you were going all out for a big buck approach, you might try to optimize squish(I hate that word, sounds like a marketing term) or quench. This will potentially limit the maximum boost you can achieve without knock.

Case in point, Supercharged Minis dropped compression by dropping the piston down the hole. They don't push a lot of boost, but there are many other limitations to high boost. Adequate fuel and ignition come to mind. Low budget will limit a lot of high boost fun. Then again it didn't cost much.

Glad to hear about the progress. Looking forward to completion of your project and pictures.

If you need anything from the states, drop a PM.

Matt

koenvbr
05-26-2004, 11:57 AM
can the topics name be editted? Since I probably going the stay with the 142 and leave the other amazon for what it is for now, since the 142's bodywork is complete and almost ready to go

I'm just lucky that I found lots of good performance parts for a very cheap price (the 531 head, +90 exhaust manifold, group-a turbo, cam&camgear, gearboxes and axles, the engine itself). The car itself I traded with parts from a 245 turbo (the car cost me $215). Some parts I sold so So the money I gain on these things I can spend on other stuff like the bushings and springs/shocks, bigger exhaust valves etc. The revison kit I got at a with a good discount. Hope the car still falls under low budget then...

Today this arrived:

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104250.jpg/100_poly_bushes.jpg


About the parts, I'll keep that in mind, since finding a v-8 K-jet isn't easy over here...

koenvbr
07-05-2004, 08:30 AM
38mm exhaust valves are in, now a little more finishing and the head is ready. The bellhousing is finished also and the clutch disc a little bit adjusted for fitting the M400. The IPD swaybars also arrived from Germany. At the moment I'm pulling out the volvo-r sport lsd from the race axle for fitting into the 160axle.

koenvbr
07-24-2004, 02:44 PM
My K-jet has arrived this week (Thankx too Nils on this forum) Today I started with dismantling the fenders and grill, the right fender I cutted of with my screwdriver. Next work is cutting and welding :s

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104266.JPG/kjets.JPG

koenvbr
07-25-2004, 01:40 PM
Removed the left inner fender today, its rusty were it was so I need to weld it and reinforce it somehow. Looks I gonna have some space left when its all in :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104282.JPG/inner.JPG

Koen

The Aspirator
07-26-2004, 10:05 PM
volvo K-jet VS Benz K-jet
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/23404202.JPG/volvoVSbenz.JPG
That Benz K-jet is HUGE!! I love it. So how are you going to convert the 8 fuel ports into 6? Or are you just going to do 2 lines connected to 1 injector, and forget about the cold start injector, ect...?

Keep up the good work! That head looks great.

John

Unregistered
07-27-2004, 08:26 AM
Few monts ago I had few days to spare and I installed B23AT+IC engine to my 144GT. I installed it into upright position therefore I used B20 oilpump and oilsump witch bolt straight on. Then I had to fabricate engine mounts, brake booster installing braket to fit mk.2 Escort small booster. I allso made an extension braket to inlet manifold to mount the carb.. For exhaust I installed 2,5in R-Sport downpipe and it fitted straiht to my stainless exhaust system.. All was made in 3 days because thatīs my daily ride, so its not so big job.. For costs at a moment its 400E.. Was it worth it.. HELL YEAH!! When comparing to old B20 witch made 170hp this B23 turbo is so smooth, and very fast.. Here is allso few pics of the installation, feel free to ask..

T:Kuikka

http://fi.msnusers.com/Volvo144GTTurbo/shoebox.msnw

koenvbr
07-29-2004, 10:31 AM
That Benz K-jet is HUGE!! I love it. So how are you going to convert the 8 fuel ports into 6? Or are you just going to do 2 lines connected to 1 injector, and forget about the cold start injector, ect...?

Keep up the good work! That head looks great.

John

2 lines for 1 injector, the cold start won't be used

koenvbr
09-07-2004, 11:53 AM
front axle powdercoated, this weekend its the anual volvo meeting in holland. There I buy my new joints. Here the axle with some of the goodies

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104202.JPG/ACFNQBXBaWsS.JPG

koenvbr
10-26-2004, 03:18 PM
friday the postman had some packages for me, one from sweden and one from the US. mmm, I wonder what it would be. The V8 K-jet which I bought will be for my 244 when its time.

H-profil rods have arrived, some pics with a M-rod
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104314.JPG/bielle1.JPG

Some numbers
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104330.JPG/bielle2.JPG

koenvbr
10-26-2004, 03:22 PM
the new turbo (replace's group-a one)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104186.JPG/whosyourdaddy.JPG

The Aspirator
10-26-2004, 09:10 PM
Very nice!!! Those pictures are actually exactly what I've been searching for the past few days, glad to see you're taking that engine to the next level!

Good choice on the Holset :badboy:.

What's with the 48-40 valves? I thought you already fit 38mm exhaust valves to your 531? Also, earlier in this thread you mentioned ford 38mm exhaust valves.... wanna give me some more detail on these? Also where did you source the 48-40 valves? And are you doing double valve springs?

What brand of rods are those? And what crank are you using that has a 90mm rod bearing? How could you use a rod with a larger bearing than the M-rod? Unless you added material to the crank, or used a custom crank, or used a different crank than the B21/23 crank.... I'm quite curious! Those rods are SUPER beefy.

Mind if I ask what you've been paying for these parts? And are those Venolia pistons custom designed to your specifications, or do they have a few off the shelf items for our performance volvos? I've heard of quite a few euro guys going with those pistons.

Sorry for so many questions, but I'm VERY VERY interested in your project. Best of luck!

John

PS, a bunch of your pictures earlier in this thread don't work anymore.

koenvbr
10-27-2004, 12:03 PM
What's with the 48-40 valves? I thought you already fit 38mm exhaust valves to your 531?

I have fit 38mm in my other head indeed, but since I found the turbo cheap I need some extra's to spool it up. The other head I use either on my 244 or sell to a friend of mine.

Also, earlier in this thread you mentioned ford 38mm exhaust valves.... wanna give me some more detail on these?

It are ford racing valves, they are a little bit bigger in diameter, I think 0.5mm. So the valve guides a machined so that the valve will fit. They are a little bit longer also ( I took off material with a round stone which movers from side to side with water => don't know the name for it in english) :)

Also where did you source the 48-40 valves? And are you doing double valve springs??

They from SPM also, the same shop were my rods and pistons come from www.stenparnermotor.se
I do going to use double valve springs and aluminium spring retainers.

What brand of rods are those? And what crank are you using that has a 90mm rod bearing? How could you use a rod with a larger bearing than the M-rod? Unless you added material to the crank, or used a custom crank, or used a different crank than the B21/23 crank.... I'm quite curious! Those rods are SUPER beefy.

The rods are from SPM, some say it are EAGLE rods, so made in US, but I didn't asked this yet. The rods are for B21/B23 crank, since the drawing isn't very clear, but if you look closely you can see the arrows are pointing to the outsides of the rod and not the diameter for the rod. The rod is 2mm wider then the M-rod

Mind if I ask what you've been paying for these parts? And are those Venolia pistons custom designed to your specifications, or do they have a few off the shelf items for our performance volvos? I've heard of quite a few euro guys going with those pistons.

I don't mind at all, I can say this is a "one in your lifetime" engine/car. I do have the luck I can still live at my parents place for a cheap monthly fee. I paid the rods 4900SEK, pistons (including pins and rings) 7800SEK, 48mm intake 200sek, 40mm exhaust 180SEK, the retainers 480SEK, the springs 550SEK.

The pistons are made by venolia for SPM, it does have about the same measurements as the stock piston. This weekend I'm going to weight the parts so I can give some more info about that also.

Sorry for so many questions, but I'm VERY VERY interested in your project. Best of luck!

PS, a bunch of your pictures earlier in this thread don't work anymore.
[/QUOTE]

My pleasure

The pics I edited, I can imagine if you must load the page with all those pictures on it with a modem. So I posted a link to many of the pictures.

Koen

The Aspirator
10-27-2004, 09:03 PM
Thanks for the quick reply! That answered a lot of my questions.

I don't mind at all, I can say this is a "one in your lifetime" engine/car. I do have the luck I can still live at my parents place for a cheap monthly fee. I paid the rods 4900SEK, pistons (including pins and rings) 7800SEK, 48mm intake 200sek, 40mm exhaust 180SEK, the retainers 480SEK, the springs 550SEK. Is it just me or were those pistons and rods VERY expensive? With today's exchange rate that makes the rods almost $700US and the pistons almost $1,100US, sounds like a LOT to me, compared to what others are spending for custom parts. Just for comparison, one guy on here (RedDragon) paid $635US for 4 custom pistons/rings/wrist pins. I'm not sure what the guys here are paying for rods, but I'd assume around $500 for custom ones.

If you haven't heard of the member "142Turbo", you've really got to see his website:
http://groups.msn.com/AnteArvika/shoebox.msnw
He said he ran 4.5 0-60 with his older weaker engine, and dyno'ed at 600whp with his new one...... and he's still not satisfied :-P . Cool guy.

John

koenvbr
10-28-2004, 12:09 PM
Thanks for the quick reply! That answered a lot of my questions.

Is it just me or were those pistons and rods VERY expensive? With today's exchange rate that makes the rods almost $700US and the pistons almost $1,100US, sounds like a LOT to me, compared to what others are spending for custom parts. Just for comparison, one guy on here (RedDragon) paid $635US for 4 custom pistons/rings/wrist pins. I'm not sure what the guys here are paying for rods, but I'd assume around $500 for custom ones.

If you haven't heard of the member "142Turbo", you've really got to see his website:
http://groups.msn.com/AnteArvika/shoebox.msnw
He said he ran 4.5 0-60 with his older weaker engine, and dyno'ed at 600whp with his new one...... and he's still not satisfied :-P . Cool guy.

John

Problem here in belgium is, finding performance parts is very hard. If it is a volvo it is twice as hard and if you can find something its from another shop. They ask a higher price as in the other shop cause the want to earn some too.

The rods and pistons aren't the cheapest either. I'm sure there are cheaper custom parts avaible but would cost me more when it arrived then the parts I bought now. For example the megasquirt which arrived last week. I must pay rights for bringing it into belgium (19,11euros) + 8,68euros for the douanes + 39,11euros tax. Thats a extra 67,07euros. This is for a amount of $180. You can imagine what it would cost more for lets say $1200 (it would more than $300) With buying from a shop (for me Sweden) lots of these taxes are dropped (I was told). The shop just must charge the countries tax laws. And then is the shipping from one european country to another free from taxes. I hope this explains why I bought that parts.

A older weaker engine which only does 4.5 :p

Koen

The Aspirator
10-29-2004, 02:12 AM
Thanks for clearing that up! I really like how you keep updating this thread with your progress, please keep it up! I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product. :lol:

John

koenvbr
11-08-2004, 01:08 PM
This weekend I went to get my new gearbox, I've searched and found it about 400km from my place. It's a getrag 280 from a '92 BMW M5 3.8

Here it is between a M50 and the M400, hope to finish this week the work on the bellhousing already.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104474.JPG/vs.JPG

The Aspirator
11-08-2004, 01:52 PM
The M5 tranny is the one in the middle? Looks like an integrated bellhousing, how are you going to make it work?

Now that I take a second look, is bellhousing on the right a Volvo BH cut and welded to whatever tranny that is? NEATO!

John

koenvbr
11-08-2004, 04:39 PM
its the middle one, going to cut the ring on the needed distance, the other piece will be cut from a B20 bellhousing. Than I take it to a a welder. The bellhousing you see there on the right is a B20 welded on a B30. The M400 is one of the strongest maded, some say even stronger then the M90. Same internals as a chevy gearbox, but I don't know which one. Just one bad thing, 4 gears :( good for dragracing but not for the street.

Koen

linuxman51
11-08-2004, 05:10 PM
when you're talking about the valve prices, is that per valve or for a set of 4? (I would imagine per valve)

koenvbr
11-08-2004, 05:30 PM
not for set, for each valve. Between $25 and $30 if I'm not wrong.

The Aspirator
11-20-2004, 04:21 AM
Are those H-profile rods the exact same dimensions as the "M" rods?? I know they're wider and beefier, but do they have the exact same Center-Center height, big end and small end diameters as the M-rods??

John

koenvbr
11-24-2004, 12:35 PM
John,

They have the same center-center height like the M-rods

Koen

The Aspirator
11-24-2004, 04:46 PM
I do going to use double valve springs and aluminium spring retainers.
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/25271626.JPG/culasstukken.JPGWhen you buy double valve springs do they come with both springs (big and little) or just the little ones that fit inside your existing big ones? And those aluminum spring retainers look really neat, any idea how much lighter they are than the steel ones? Do they make a big difference in lightening up your valve train?

John

turbotore
11-24-2004, 05:16 PM
is the m50 bellhousing detachable???

koenvbr
11-24-2004, 05:21 PM
When you buy double valve springs do they come with both springs (big and little) or just the little ones that fit inside your existing big ones? And those aluminum spring retainers look really neat, any idea how much lighter they are than the steel ones? Do they make a big difference in lightening up your valve train?

John

I bought just the inner springs, you can also buy a set of 16springs. The weight of the parts I'll be posting soon. I haven't found time yet to weight it all.


is the m50 bellhousing detachable???

It's one of the original magnesium group-a bellhousings for the getrag M51/M50 gearbox.


Koen

nothing but turbo
11-24-2004, 07:32 PM
hello koen,
i'm new into vintage volvos, but i fell in love at the first sight with the 142 (see my thread here (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=28404)) so i had to buy her.

anyway, my plans are for a turbo 142. I've read so far this thread, plus others suggested here by other members.
you mentioned about replacing the rear axle with one from an 164.
i'm thinking same move b/c 4.10 is way too slow for me from a standstill :twisted: so i'll go for an 3.31 from an automatic 164 (don't remember the year for sure, but the transmission is either a BW35 or 55).
will i need to modify the axle, or will be a direct fit on the 140 from the 160? is there a difference in construction/design between the years of fabrication?

one other thing: i have the chance to get my hands on an B19 from an '75 244L [that was incidentally made in Gent ;-) ] which has a 531 head on it.
what would be the level of power i can expect from this motor? from what i know, thicker cylinder walls = the possibility of running more boost. so i'm thinking at least 1.5bar???

very interesting thread btw :cool:

see ya later,
marc

*edit* ...and i'm thinking B19ET-IC

koenvbr
11-25-2004, 01:13 PM
hello koen,

you mentioned about replacing the rear axle with one from an 164.
i'm thinking same move b/c 4.10 is way too slow for me from a standstill :twisted: so i'll go for an 3.31 from an automatic 164 (don't remember the year for sure, but the transmission is either a BW35 or 55).
will i need to modify the axle, or will be a direct fit on the 140 from the 160? is there a difference in construction/design between the years of fabrication?

one other thing: i have the chance to get my hands on an B19 from an '75 244L [that was incidentally made in Gent ;-) ] which has a 531 head on it.
what would be the level of power i can expect from this motor? from what i know, thicker cylinder walls = the possibility of running more boost. so i'm thinking at least 1.5bar???



The axles are interchangeble, I do think the late 160's have another panhard fixation. The whole axle might be different (thats when things were changed so start fabricating the 240) The internals from the 160 are identical to the ones in the 1031 axle, so you can swap the gears.

About cilinder thickness, I've made a "special volvo tool" :o) to measure the thickness of the cilinderwalls. I measured a B21 (4-5mm) B23 (3-4mm) B230 (3-4mm) blocks. I never got the hand on a B19engine wich was dismantled. If the the thickness would be going further the same line it has even thicker walls (maybe Oskari from this boards knows this, he's running a B19 I think)

1,5 bar shouldn't be a problem, but check out what the compression is, you have to lower that. Be sure the other parts can hold out also offcoarse

View this thread for some boost numbers (somewhere near the bottem):

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=12579


Good luck with your car, I love the interieur :)

Koen

nothing but turbo
11-25-2004, 08:27 PM
Good luck with your car, I love the interieur :)

Koen

yeah thanks, me too! :cool:

koenvbr
12-12-2004, 07:35 PM
Finally I had the chance to weight the pistons, rods, pistons pins. I only took one M-rod, stock piston and pin.

Here are the numbers for the stock parts (I machined 1mm from the piston, so the weight isn't for a std one. The book I have gave a maximum difference of 10gr on the rods.

M-rod: 850gr
pin: 158gr
piston: 540gr

H-profile rods: 1) 864gr 2) 865gr 3) 864gr 4) 865gr
pins: 1) 158gr 2) 159gr 3) 159gr 4) 158gr
pistons: 1)497gr 2) 497gr 3) 497gr 4) 498gr


I asked for the price of a S60R caliper and it would cost 380euro's here a piece. Though Dave Barton mentioned $200 a piece. With the currency would that be around 150euro. Thats more then the double!!?? Anybody knows why the price is so much different over here in europe (belgium) then in the US? Doesn't make sence too me.

In the meanwhile Pacman, who visits this board once in a while, is preparing my head. Good news is that he won a cilinderhead flow contest this weekend in Stockholm :)

Koen

The Aspirator
12-13-2004, 06:03 PM
The H-rods are heavier than M-s huh? Interesting.

Pacman does some truly outstanding work. Sweet that you got him to do yours too!

koenvbr
12-29-2004, 07:05 PM
Pacman does some truly outstanding work. Sweet that you got him to do yours too!

He sended me some pics of the works on the head, I don't know why the welds are placed on the head...

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104218.JPG/culas.JPG

Koen

The Aspirator
12-29-2004, 07:10 PM
Nice. Looks like he welded up the coolant passages, maybe so he could port the snot out of the intake ports without digging into a coolant passage? Though it is a small coolant passage head to begin with. What size valves are going into this one again?

John

koenvbr
12-29-2004, 07:18 PM
48mm intake and 40mm exhaust

I putted a pic of a other 531 head next to it and you can see that on some places it are just small welds on the head surface.

48-40 versus 44-35
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104426.JPG/48en40.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104410.JPG/35en40.JPG

Unregistered
12-29-2004, 07:55 PM
i can't see welds, what picture are you talking about??

james

Unregistered
12-29-2004, 07:56 PM
never mind

PRVersion
02-18-2005, 09:52 PM
dear gods....those wheels are beautiful. apparenly something we never got stateside?

koenvbr
03-05-2005, 03:37 PM
Fits on my 160 axle

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104506.JPG/as1.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104490.JPG/as3.JPG

The Aspirator
03-05-2005, 03:45 PM
NICE! That car is gonna rock, seems like you're doing everything right. Thanks for that head pic too.

stylngle2003
03-05-2005, 04:33 PM
koen, can you get pacman to post on here again? i would like to talk to him about getting a 531 worked on

thank you!

your project looks stunning so far, keep it up

GTJordan
03-06-2005, 12:02 AM
Awsome work Koen....

Can't wait to see it done

Jordan

koenvbr
03-06-2005, 07:42 AM
koen, can you get pacman to post on here again? i would like to talk to him about getting a 531 worked on

thank you!

your project looks stunning so far, keep it up


sended you a PM

JW240
03-06-2005, 01:37 PM
That looks awesome!! I wonder when I can see it flying over the belgium country roads.. :-P
Nice work!!

Pacman
03-06-2005, 07:12 PM
Nice to hear that you like my work =)

What can I do for you stylngle2003?

stylngle2003
03-07-2005, 02:37 AM
i was just inquiring about what your services and suggestions are in terms of me getting a 531 head worked over by you with the goal of 400whp at 1.5 bar, 6500rpm redline, with an enem v15 or v16 cam. i don't want to muck up Koen's thread, so if you could perhaps send me an email, regarding price (including a 531 head and shipping from sweden) that you think would get me a head that would easily work for my goals. thank you...my email address is:

carzrock AT aol.com (replace AT with @ )

koenvbr
03-27-2005, 02:17 PM
Pulled of my support arms, torque rods and panhard today for letting them powdercoated next week with the other resting front axle parts. The car is now on its lowest point I think :) Hope to start with the prepartions/repair of the bodywork next month. Had my crankshaft polished and got myself a 960 throttle body for the future intake manifold

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104586.JPG/normal.JPG
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104570.JPG/lowered.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104602.JPG/gasklep_1.JPG

BrIcKDrIfTeR
03-27-2005, 05:28 PM
Hello Koen,

I know it was my car some time ago but I didn't know it was that bad. Isn't it better that you search for a better one?

All the rest that you are doing is just perfect. ;-)

Cheers, Jochen

koenvbr
03-27-2005, 07:59 PM
You know that I can't blame you for it, you just stalled it for a while untill I came to get it. It just sat there for how long?? Other 142's can be found but 1) they are to good to cut in pieces 2) the ones before the famous year of '68 are very rare, and I rather have one of those just in case...

JW240
03-29-2005, 01:31 PM
well I guess it will take some time to get it completely together :roll:
I hate removing rust, I still need to fix some small rust on my 240 for a few months, I just don't like it..

koenvbr
03-29-2005, 05:18 PM
The dead places will just be cutted away. I'll place the shockabsorbers more to the inside (like on the amazon) so I can just close the wheel fenders without paying attention the the shock mounting positions. A 4-link in the far future would be cool though :)

koenvbr
04-11-2005, 12:15 PM
this weekend I've maded my first header, I had some designs in my thought but it became a design of my own since staring at a photo wouldn't work and I wanted to be creative. Don't know if it will be the final version though...

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104538.JPG/beta11.JPG

stylngle2003
04-11-2005, 12:56 PM
wow! very nice looking header there, Koen

keep up the great work :)

The Aspirator
04-11-2005, 02:03 PM
Holy cow that's NUTS! (in a good way). I'm adding that pic to my collection ;-) .

spongemonster
04-11-2005, 02:08 PM
Yay 960 throttle body they are so freakin big compared to my old stock 16 valve tb. It's a bit of a hassle to do the swap onto a 16 v but it is oh so worth it. You can actually fit the inlet on the old 16 valve throttle body into the inlet on the 960 tb. Man that car is gonna be awesome and that manifold is just plain hot man.
James

64Amazon
04-11-2005, 02:27 PM
Wow Koen, that looks great!!
Can't wait to start on my header. I'm going to pick up my engines next saturday so I can start on my project.
The Amazon is driving now. First I'm going to start on the engine, then when the summer ends the Amazon is going to be stripped again.

JW240
04-11-2005, 03:15 PM
really nice!! what type of welder are you using? (MIG is my guess)

Captain Bondo
04-11-2005, 03:22 PM
KICK ASS! Any top views of it?

koenvbr
04-11-2005, 03:59 PM
I'm glad you guys like it :) I'm welding with elektrodes, its a portable weldingdevice from my work. If I find time tomorrow I'll weld the header completly.

Picture from above:
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104554.JPG/beta13.JPG

JW240
04-11-2005, 04:07 PM
again thats really awesome, I really like your work.. Looking foreward to see it on the road :)

koenvbr
04-30-2005, 01:50 PM
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104762.JPG/proR8.JPG

I slayed the getrag as well

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104778.JPG/bmwM5getrag3.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104794.JPG/bmwM5getrag4.JPG

JW240
05-02-2005, 09:25 AM
again very nice, glad to see some more progress!
When is it finished do you think?

koenvbr
05-02-2005, 11:32 AM
Don't have any idea when the car will be ready, I hope somewhere next year :) Since my amazon I don't put dates on car projects

pwschuh
05-02-2005, 01:45 PM
Nice.

Even with the vertical engine position, that header will require quite a wide engine compartment or no inner fenders, will it not?

koenvbr
05-02-2005, 02:48 PM
Its a wide header indeed, like you said I cutted the inner fenders for some extra room.

koenvbr
05-07-2005, 08:20 AM
pulled out the LSD out of the race-axle yesterday to built it into the 160axle. Tomorrow we'll fitt the LSD further into the 160axle. Those SVO's are soo cool :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104906.JPG/sper17.JPG

koenvbr
05-08-2005, 02:50 PM
Finished the works on the LSD today:

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104890.JPG/sper12.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104938.JPG/sper11.JPG

Some pics of the other car in the garage

http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/myvolvopics.msnw

engine pictures follow later, forgot my other flashcard there

64Amazon
05-09-2005, 10:04 AM
Wow cool car. For which competition is that car??

JW240
05-09-2005, 10:28 AM
indeed very nice! what brand is that rear suspension? It makes me think of BMW, but I am not sure..

koenvbr
05-09-2005, 11:51 AM
it was for the "belcar throphy" a turismo class which was very nice. Untill the richer porsches and viper team came... it was cool. Smaller teams disappeared slowly, just like this car. Axle is from a M3 of M5. Don't know for sure anymore

koenvbr
05-09-2005, 11:52 AM
*double post*

koenvbr
05-09-2005, 11:52 AM
*triple post* :p

Dr. Volvo
05-09-2005, 12:02 PM
Could you possible get me theese measurements?

Theese are the only measurements I need to be able to make my own tool, and I haven't been able to borrow one.


D = the dia. where you use the indicator
L = the lenght of the thing (??) you place on the pinnion.
http://pchome.grm.hia.no/~nkbakk03/Uten%20navn.JPG

koenvbr
05-09-2005, 12:28 PM
Could you possible get me theese measurements?

Theese are the only measurements I need to be able to make my own tool, and I haven't been able to borrow one.


D = the dia. where you use the indicator
L = the lenght of the thing (??) you place on the pinnion.
http://pchome.grm.hia.no/~nkbakk03/Uten%20navn.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/29452266.JPG/sper17.JPG

The "thing" is a axle which is placed in the bearing housings. So the axle is perfectly centered. I'll will get you the sizes of this axle, I normally go back at the end of this week.

Dr. Volvo
05-09-2005, 12:41 PM
I belive you misunderstood my poor explanation a little.
I need the lenght of the axel (thing, whatever) behind it.

Ben_Flierman
05-09-2005, 01:07 PM
The "thing" is a axle which is placed in the bearing housings. So the axle is perfectly centered. I'll will get you the sizes of this axle, I normally go back at the end of this week.
So that axle/thing is some kind of tool to help line up the pinion wheel? To measure the distance to the halfshaft so to speak? Or the crownwheel and dif cage? Also the big grip/holder thing which the whole rear axle is clamped into: is that only to bend open the dif a bit, so the cage and its bearings come out easier? I've taken apart difs a few times, but always without that tool. Did work for me, although I knew that I should have such a tool. So can you give us some hints/tips/tricks on how to correctly line up the pinion and crown wheel, relative to each other?

cheers, ben

koenvbr
05-09-2005, 03:31 PM
I belive you misunderstood my poor explanation a little.
I need the lenght of the axel (thing, whatever) behind it.

The axle which is placed on the pinion vertically?



So that axle/thing is some kind of tool to help line up the pinion wheel? To measure the distance to the halfshaft so to speak? Or the crownwheel and dif cage? Also the big grip/holder thing which the whole rear axle is clamped into: is that only to bend open the dif a bit, so the cage and its bearings come out easier? I've taken apart difs a few times, but always without that tool. Did work for me, although I knew that I should have such a tool. So can you give us some hints/tips/tricks on how to correctly line up the pinion and crown wheel, relative to each other?

cheers, ben

On the pinion was a number is written/stamped, this distance (speling in het nederlands) allows the teeth of the pinion catch in right inthe middle of the crown teeth. To high/low will bring the forces more badly onto the crown teeth. The dif was is placed under a certain tension, when it was placed in the 240 axle I've been pulling and tapping to get it out without succes. With the clamp you open the cars several thousands so the tension disappears and the dif comes out without any problems. The original dif in the 160 axle I pulled out without using the clamp. So my guess, if a LSD is in the axle the clamp is needed. When placing the crown wheel, we had to measure the distance between the bearings so you get the numbers needed for creating that tension (see above). Spacer rings are placed behind the bearings. We had to do this all cause the LSD was changed from one axle to another, normally when just opening the LSD and putting it back can be done without all this. Unless you place new bearings.

I hope this give some answers allready, if more I try to answer it, cause it was completly new for me too.

koen

Dr. Volvo
05-09-2005, 03:59 PM
The axle which is placed on the pinion vertically?

Jackpot!!

koenvbr
05-09-2005, 05:52 PM
Good, I'll let you know next weekend...

MattP
05-09-2005, 11:42 PM
http://completeoffroad.com/wsm/i-63_pinion_depth_tool.html

koenvbr
05-10-2005, 02:09 PM
I picked up the pieces today when I came from my work:

axle on pinion is 72,20 (tool is just accurate on 0.05mm, haven't got a micrometer of this lenght)

diameter is 30mm (measured 30,01 with micrometer)

Renny_D
05-10-2005, 02:38 PM
it was for the "belcar throphy" a turismo class which was very nice. Untill the porsches and vipers came it was cool. Smaller teams disappeared slowly, just like this car. Axle is from a M3 of M5. Don't know for sure anymore.

is that entire rear suspension out of an M3/M5 and if so how did you mount that to the volvo frame? Close up pics and explanations would be great.

Thanks
Renny

koenvbr
05-10-2005, 02:44 PM
a complete new frame is maded for mounting the rearaxle (its a M5) .I don't have close-up picstures of this. Older pics here can be found here:
http://groups.msn.com/MyVolvopicturepage/myvolvopics.msnw?Page=1

If I got some new pics I open a topic in the showroom.

Dr. Volvo
05-10-2005, 05:14 PM
I picked up the pieces today when I came from my work:

axle on pinion is 72,20 (tool is just accurate on 0.05mm, haven't got a micrometer of this lenght)

diameter is 30mm (measured 30,01 with micrometer)

Thank you very much!!

Now I have some tools to make :-D

koenvbr
05-23-2005, 01:37 PM
mmm, I wonder what this thing is doing in the trunk of my 120?? :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104922.JPG/ic.JPG

at the moment the block is being bored and I'm looking around for a stronger BMW pressure plate for adapting to the volvo flywheel.

JW240
05-23-2005, 04:36 PM
thats a nice intercooler!!! wow..

koenvbr
06-25-2005, 04:23 PM
shorty shifty for the getrag :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104810.JPG/SHIFTER.JPG

In july/august I can finally start with the bodywork of the car so there will be more progress on it soon.

The Aspirator
06-26-2005, 01:51 AM
Man that shifter looks awesome, but I don't really understand what it does :???: . Please explain cause I'm REALLY interested!

Chigga 744SE
06-26-2005, 02:50 AM
I <3 this shiznit, and I hate the racoons sitting in my lounge chair, its been 3hrs, I'm going to shoot 'em with my shotgun.

keep this thread going.

koenvbr
06-26-2005, 05:53 PM
Man that shifter looks awesome, but I don't really understand what it does :???: . Please explain cause I'm REALLY interested!

short and very precise shifting, perfect positioning shifter vs sitting position, the reverse gear is blocked by a cable mechanism, low wieght with use of airplane aluminuim (1.2kg), every gear can be adjusted seperatly (don't know how to say it exactly).

Can be placed normally on every getrag, the guiding axle for the gears is the same on the m50/m51 and the getrag 280 from the m5. So adjusting will be no problem. Even dogleg is possible

koenvbr
07-21-2005, 10:54 AM
Breaking news: Today we brought the car to the garage so I can start with the works on the bodywork finally. And tomorrow I'm going to france for a week to have some rest 8) 8)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104842.JPG/ACFYXABoaO25.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34104970.JPG/ACFQYAToaO25.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34105002.JPG/garage.JPG

The Aspirator
07-21-2005, 03:45 PM
Nice garage!!! Towing a volvo with a volvo, priceless...

JW240
07-21-2005, 04:28 PM
looks nice, whoes 245 is that? brickdrifters family? I once saw a picture of one of their 245's, really beautiful and a 16 valve engine :drool:
have fun in france.... :-D
edit: looked at the pictures again and it must be the same... rwwr tails, commando bumpers without rubber, black trim, chrome on the same places etc.... nice

koenvbr
07-21-2005, 05:34 PM
yup, its the brickdrifters family garage too. I'm out, untill next week!

one more for the fans :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/30870202.JPG/ACFUMAGDaydm.JPG

blkaplan
07-22-2005, 06:54 PM
that shifter makes it sequential right?

koenvbr
07-30-2005, 07:59 PM
that shifter makes it sequential right?

nope, I still need the clutch pedal :(

koenvbr
08-01-2005, 02:29 PM
this weekend I pulled out several things like fuel tank, pedals and steering mountings, some more interior parts etc.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34105066.JPG/13.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34105050.JPG/ACFEZBsFaWsS.JPG

BoxDriver2
08-01-2005, 02:47 PM
Very nice work! I enjoy it when i can see some actual work on an old volvo being done :)

Can you inform me on that 744/745 or 760 counterpart.. sitting next to it? Perhaps that is also the 744 up in the photo on the lift on the roof picture...


http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/30863850.JPG/ACFMKCC5ayeX.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31087306.JPG/ACFOYClCbq_S.JPG



Great work on the 142. I can't wait to see what you do to it! The shifter, is that similar to the actuator style/pneumatic shifter? I see the mount/support for it..with the hose off the back..I could be/probably am wrong...

koenvbr
08-01-2005, 04:26 PM
Very nice work! I enjoy it when i can see some actual work on an old volvo being done :)

Can you inform me on that 744/745 or 760 counterpart.. sitting next to it? Perhaps that is also the 744 up in the photo on the lift on the roof picture...



Great work on the 142. I can't wait to see what you do to it! The shifter, is that similar to the actuator style/pneumatic shifter? I see the mount/support for it..with the hose off the back..I could be/probably am wrong...

The 760 is the driftcar of my friends dad, its a B230 turbo engine. Its emptied for losing some weight, koni sport etc. The 244 has also a B230 turbo engine with about 215hp. And lots of suspension goodies.

The shifter is only mechanical, the hose you see is for putting the gearbox in reverse. And you can also see the rusty trunk :s

BDKR
08-04-2005, 08:51 AM
I have to give credit where credit is due. I just saw this thread for the first time today. Extremely nice work going on here! Please keep us posted on the progress of this ride here and anything else you do.

Cheers,
BDKR

koenvbr
08-06-2005, 02:47 PM
Some progress pics of the works from yesterday and today

edot: removed couple of pics

koenvbr
08-09-2005, 04:41 PM
Today I cleaned up the right rear fender and removed the other front fender. And test fitted a B21engine with the header. Probably I must make a seperate tunnel for the downpipe and the rest of the exhaust, cause its going to get pretty close. With the 7" wheel I probably going to hit the pipe. Picture(s) follow tomorrow.

koenvbr
08-10-2005, 03:02 PM
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34105114.jpg/ACFEDCVPaqSr.jpg

The Aspirator
08-10-2005, 04:19 PM
Holy cow, you DID take a different approach to making that header! Did all those pics I sent ya even help at all? :-P Sweet work by the way!

koenvbr
08-10-2005, 06:16 PM
I tried to copy one from one of the pictures you sended me, but copying isn't so easy once you are working on it. The first parts of cylinder 3 & 4 are pretty close to one of the examples.

volvo78244
08-11-2005, 06:40 AM
I recently saw your car when I visited the 'Brickdrifters', I think (read I am sure) that it is going to be a one of a kind car! I hope you can achieve your goals when making it a hell of a allround car.

Of course it has its rusty parts but I think that won't be that big a problem.

Good luck with it, and hope to see you again somewhere soon..

Greetz Joris

koenvbr
08-14-2005, 09:24 PM
test with the intake runners, steering shaft can pass free. Now I need to see what I can do for placing the brake servo.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31307226.JPG/ACFQQCCUaGNg.JPG

koenvbr
08-15-2005, 01:28 PM
I was looking for some other wheels for drifting and racing on circuits and I came up with the old Ronal Racings wich where placed on the "the good old days" belgian group-a car. I'm going to drill the holes trough the center and will machine it so It can be used with regular wheel bolts. Otherwise the wheels would stay in my basement for the rest of my life I think and now they will be used for what they where made for.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31319066.JPG/center.JPG
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31319050.JPG/center_achter.JPG

The rings I took weren't of the same size, outer part is 17" and inner part 16" so don't be surprised when it looks strange. The wheel is 10" wide and it comes about a inch out of the fenders. With some machining of the center it will fit nicely I hope.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31319018.JPG/ACFALClrbiYE.JPG
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31319034.JPG/27.JPG

PRVersion
08-17-2005, 07:36 PM
:omg: daaaaaaaamn! thats a serious amount of tire to hang under a 142! :omg:

JW240
08-25-2005, 02:35 PM
wow thats again some nice progress!!

are you going to the volvo beurs in Utrecht next week?

koenvbr
08-25-2005, 04:11 PM
yup, I just asked Ted if he goes, turbobricks benelux meet :)

koenvbr
08-30-2005, 12:01 PM
As I got the S60 racecar sold for my friend I may clean up his garage and keep what I can use. I found a very interesting engine laying upside down on a wooden crate. Its a B230 engine wich marks a "S" on the outside. It has been bored out and steel sleeves of 2mm thick are pressed in so makes the block a lot stronger. The crank in it is from a penta engine the old pistons have 16v sockets in it. Does anybody knows for what the "S" stands for? What about rod lenght piston differences between regular engine?

JW240
08-30-2005, 03:22 PM
wow thats interesting.... I know there are special B230 engines that are marked R and they have extra thick cylinder walls and can be bored out more, they were used for rallycross etc..
Is it a long stroke crank? The rods in normal penta engines (longer stroke or not) are always the same length as the B230 engines..

koenvbr
09-01-2005, 11:23 AM
wow thats interesting.... I know there are special B230 engines that are marked R and they have extra thick cylinder walls and can be bored out more, they were used for rallycross etc..
Is it a long stroke crank? The rods in normal penta engines (longer stroke or not) are always the same length as the B230 engines..

the stroke is 86mm. So the differences lay in the pistons then?

JW240
09-03-2005, 05:21 PM
the stroke is 86mm. So the differences lay in the pistons then?


yes, the compression height of the piston in a penta long stroke redblock is 3 mm lower than a standard B230 piston. but thats with a penta engine, your engine may be different..

koenvbr
09-04-2005, 04:09 PM
Glad we met in Holland, we lost the upper chrome part of the windshield on the highway :) Jochen's car is too fast ;)

Gonna check things out when I got the engine here.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31678570.jpg/as.jpg

Discs rubs a bit against caliper but probably its cause of the hub which isn't on torque. Otherwise some more research.

JW240
09-05-2005, 08:25 AM
hi,

yes it was nice to meet you guys....

Guess what I bought... a set of IPD sway bars for the 240 :) (280 euro!), and 2 workshop manuals, and a 80mm rpm-counter that doesn't fit..

JW

64Amazon
09-05-2005, 03:53 PM
Weeeeeell.

Koen, I just read my e-mail. :roll: I was in Utrecht on Saturday only. Had a very rough saturday night so I spend the biggest part of sunday sleeping. :oops: Too bad, I had wanted to meet up with you guys.

I'm looking at those pictures of your car, but how must rust is there actually?! My car is in about the same stage yours is, but the amounts of rust I've came across are starting to worry me a bit. I didn't expect soo much rust on the car. I really hate rust! :-(
I've looked for a good body in Utrecht, but found nothing. Also I di'dn't find my Polaris wheels!... Well better luck next time.
I did however manage to get the oilpump in. B20 oilpump was too small and wouldn't have fit in the B230, so I used the B230. The problem was that I made some mistake on the auxilary movement of the crank. But it's in now.

Greets

koenvbr
09-05-2005, 04:38 PM
Well, the skirts (dorpels) need to be replaced. I'm looking now for complete rear fenders to make the car clean. Cause it looks very messy, it can even be seen trough the paint. Good you got the pump installed.

koenvbr
09-18-2005, 04:11 PM
after finding the following on the car, it was worse then I expected any info and tips would be welcome to get it fixed as good as possible.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31909594.JPG/1.1.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31909610.JPG/1.2.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31909626.JPG/ACFGNBOsaWpF.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/31909658.JPG/1.4.JPG

koenvbr
10-08-2005, 05:40 AM
Works can start again :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/32182922.JPG/142LA2.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/32182938.JPG/142LA.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/32182954.JPG/142LAB.JPG

koenvbr
12-04-2005, 01:08 PM
After a long time there's some progress again, started with putting in the new fenders.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33020938.JPG/flankje1.JPG

test fitting the new one

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33020954.JPG/flankje2.JPG

volvoman37
12-04-2005, 05:44 PM
its such a thrill to see such fully documented progress on a project car. keep up the good work, i know we're all anxious to see what you do with this :)

koenvbr
12-18-2005, 04:09 PM
today I cutted out the rear panel out of a '67 144 donor car. Pulled out the rear panel and right fender out of the project car with some friends and test fitted the left side with the door and placed the right side for some minor adjustments before placing the door on that side.

Some pics, last ones are not of good quality:

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33193482.JPG/donor2.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33193498.JPG/ass.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33193514.JPG/right.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33193530.JPG/left.JPG

JW240
12-18-2005, 04:28 PM
nice to see some progress again! I guess working on the bodywork and especially removing rust isn't the most interesting thing to do...

koenvbr
12-18-2005, 07:02 PM
I forgot the most insane pic of it :)

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33196746.JPG/nofenders.JPG

hudson
12-23-2005, 04:33 PM
I have to respect how much body work you're doing. My 142 doesn't need half as much body work as what seems to be going into yours and I haven't gotten around to starting it yet. I sure hope I don't find as much bondo/patching in my quarter panels as you did.

koenvbr
12-26-2005, 09:11 AM
well, in normal conditions (imo: a complete restoration of a 142) I would have taken another 142. But... over here there was maded a low which says that every car brought in traffic after the 16th july '68 has to get a paper which says what type of engine it has, gearbox, brakes, tire size etc. So the 142 had to be before that date, mine is two days after that date but he was delivered at the garage allready so no problems with that. So that date is the only backdoor over here for engine swaps. Since it was was the only 142 close to that date I could find at that moment, I took immediatly. I knew the bodywork needed some attention but you can see the works are getting very seriously. Thats the story behind the car

PRVersion
12-30-2005, 02:28 AM
damn dood, that's crazy how little car you'ev reduced it to. but when you're done you'll be able to say you built it from the ground up, basically. other than my doors i havent found anything like you have, and i hope i dont haha, good luck man. :)

while all that sheet metal is out of the ass of it are you going to flare the wheel wells to make room for all that rubber or will they be finding room farther inboard?

koenvbr
02-14-2006, 09:49 AM
bump: got a light post package today, finally I can go on with fitting those fenders back onto the car. The post papers say 20kg (44lbs??) but I think its less. Need a decent thing to weight it. Took a 164 front cause its more interesting for the intercooler, more room for putting all the other things, and the looks offcoarse.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33932250.JPG/kapeau1.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33932266.JPG/koffer1.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33932186.JPG/koffer2.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/33932234.JPG/lifting.JPG

The wheels will finding more inwards, but I'm gonna give it a little pull on the lower rear side of the fender. So the rim/tire won't hit the fender if I lower the car further then possible with a original 142/242.

koenvbr
03-07-2006, 01:46 PM
I began with the reassembly last weekend, hope to finish the rearend next sunday.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34179162.JPG/leftside2.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34179178.JPG/rightside1.JPG


Many pictures are deleted with my online photo account, I'll bring it back online as soon as possible.

V20T
03-14-2006, 02:19 PM
It's much better to keep the original position of th B21ET engine, and instead use the M45/46 or M47 Gearbox. just to modify the engine mounts instead. it's what we have done here in Norway and Sweden for many years. it's much easier and less work.. you may have to modify the placement of the main brakecylinder.. move it a bit forward. the drive train from a 164 is similar to the 140 series.. an easy match is to modify the rear axle from a 240 to fit the underbody on the 142. the 1031 axle wth LSD.:cool: :)

Vee_Que
03-15-2006, 08:39 AM
Damn, i'd like to see some of the pics, but their not working, a 164 fronted 142T? Awsome.

koenvbr
03-15-2006, 01:42 PM
It's much better to keep the original position of th B21ET engine, and instead use the M45/46 or M47 Gearbox. just to modify the engine mounts instead. it's what we have done here in Norway and Sweden for many years. it's much easier and less work.. you may have to modify the placement of the main brakecylinder.. move it a bit forward. the drive train from a 164 is similar to the 140 series.. an easy match is to modify the rear axle from a 240 to fit the underbody on the 142. the 1031 axle wth LSD.:cool: :)

I think it will not last long with a M45/46/47. I swapped the LSD from a 1031 into a 164 rear axle.

Damn, i'd like to see some of the pics, but their not working, a 164 fronted 142T? Awsome.

I don't have pics of it with a 164 frond yet, since I ordered some extra bodyparts for it.

koenvbr
04-15-2006, 04:54 PM
With my new job I haven't found much time working on the car. After about a month its time to start again. Pulled out engine and removed front axle, so I can cut and weld the firewall back together.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34539386.JPG/ACFVSBJhbWSv.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34539402.JPG/ACFWSBKhbWSv.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34539418.JPG/31.JPG

hudson
04-16-2006, 03:54 AM
Once again, a project of imense proportions.. big respect.

You might have been better off having cough_changed the vins_cough on a newer more solid body..

but I still have to respect your undertaking.. keep it up!

koenvbr
04-16-2006, 06:42 AM
I know, but it had to be a two door version, I like them more and it had to be a '68. So I can do a "legal" engine, transmission, brake, etc swap. In sweden the year for this is '75. Thats the only reason...

koenvbr
04-16-2006, 02:14 PM
Some more welding...

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34544698.JPG/ACFKDCI4aqtt.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34544714.JPG/34.JPG

koenvbr
04-18-2006, 01:33 PM
Need to weld one more bigger piece between the new plates, then close the chassis again with a reinforing on the engine side and with backplate of a couple of mm's thick on the inside. Then I can close the right part again. After that its time to fix the passengers side.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34565706.JPG/36.JPG

JW240
04-18-2006, 01:44 PM
nice! glad to see some updates
Maybe do some seam stitch welding too to stiffen up the body...

koenvbr
04-23-2006, 03:38 PM
a before and after picture, next week I finish this side and I can start with the right side.

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34565690.JPG/before.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34615978.JPG/ACFBEBNJaWTq.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34615962.JPG/ACFAEBMJaWTq.JPG

GTJordan
04-23-2006, 08:46 PM
Looking good man. Glad to see you finally get to work on it!

See ya on MSN sometime

Jordan

koenvbr
05-01-2006, 02:15 PM
the rough welding is done on the left side, after I'm done with the right side I'm going to clean up the welds better.

Some fitting:
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34693450.JPG/ACFJRBHmba5r.JPG

Putted primer on bare metal:
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34693466.JPG/44.JPG

After welding:
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34693482.JPG/45.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34693514.JPG/ACFLRBJmba5r.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34693530.JPG/ACFFRB6Haye4.JPG

koenvbr
05-07-2006, 06:48 PM
Did some small cutting:

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34752234.JPG/ACFHVBkobGWt.JPG


and tire fitting :p

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=790845#post790845

koenvbr
05-14-2006, 05:19 PM
almost done with the right side

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34806314.JPG/ACFBNBI8aqUw.JPG

koenvbr
05-22-2006, 02:28 PM
I opened the front chassis to weld on thicker plates (3mm) to reinforce it. My rollcage will come to this point so it will form one solid construction. The drag tires also have arrived.

cleaned the arm on the inside
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34872138.JPG/62.JPG

the reinforcement on its place
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34872154.JPG/ACFJSBxPayzp.JPG

When finished with this I attack the backside :?

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34872170.JPG/ACFKSByPayzp.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34872122.JPG/61.JPG

koenvbr
05-27-2006, 02:16 PM
http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34914938.JPG/65.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34914954.JPG/ACFVABYEaW.l.JPG

koenvbr
06-05-2006, 05:24 PM
removal of the rear jacking points, right side was in much better condition as the left side...

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34982970.JPG/ACFXZBP0aiDb.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/34982986.JPG/ACFYZBQ0aiDb.JPG

shaved240
06-05-2006, 11:53 PM
Bringin the 142 back from the dead! It's truly amazing how much dedication you have for this project, let alone putting in a non-b20 engine. I wish more people had this much motivation to finish projects of this magnitude. I guess in california we take rust free shells for granted, people won't even take rust free 122 shells for free.

koenvbr
06-07-2006, 04:21 PM
... people won't even take rust free 122 shells for free.

Ship them over please!! :) I've got some engines left. I've one "bad" 122 putted in a old barn, maybe I build that up in the far future.

I've seen lots of pictures from southern junkyards with rust free P1800's. People over here would go nuts for that.

shaved240
07-01-2006, 09:13 AM
Ship them over please!! :) I've got some engines left. I've one "bad" 122 putted in a old barn, maybe I build that up in the far future.

I've seen lots of pictures from southern junkyards with rust free P1800's. People over here would go nuts for that.

pay for the shipping and when I find them I'll let you know :)

koenvbr
07-03-2006, 04:40 PM
new jacking points and cutting away final bad spots out of the chassis

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250378.JPG/69.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250394.JPG/70.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250474.JPG/73.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250554.JPG/77.JPG

Other polyester parts, I'll weight the parts next week.


http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250410.JPG/71.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250442.JPG/72.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250522.JPG/75.JPG

http://www.smartgroups.com/picvault/35250538.JPG/76.JPG

Jordan
07-03-2006, 04:48 PM
uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh h thats awesome

JW240
07-03-2006, 05:12 PM
nice!

what are you going to do about the rust you cant remove? Between plates, inside frame rails etc? Some time ago i bought "fertan" rust eater, and "Ferpox" a really strong epoxy primer. works great together. just use a paint brush or paint sprayer to coat the rusted piece with fertan, let it work in for about 24 hrs, and then paint it with a few coats of primer. But i guess you already know this stuff :-P

hudson
07-05-2006, 12:39 AM
HAWT! Man looks good! Keep at it. Looks like your'e going fibre on all removable pieces? Your car is before the super heavy doors, but you stand to loose a lot of weight!

koenvbr
07-05-2006, 12:06 PM
nice!

what are you going to do about the rust you cant remove? Between plates, inside frame rails etc? Some time ago i bought "fertan" rust eater, and "Ferpox" a really strong epoxy primer. works great together. just use a paint brush or paint sprayer to coat the rusted piece with fertan, let it work in for about 24 hrs, and then paint it with a few coats of primer. But i guess you already know this stuff :-P

I'll hunt down every rust spot on the car :) There will be rust on places I haven't seen, there's no chance I can remove everything. Like you mentioned I'm using this "rust eater" thing on the car a lot. Its great and kept me motivated



HAWT! Man looks good! Keep at it. Looks like your'e going fibre on all removable pieces? Your car is before the super heavy doors, but you stand to loose a lot of weight!

before the heavy doors? :p hhhmmm, so if the newer style are even heavier then the ones I took off....All removable parts are from polyester: hood, trunk, front, doors, fenders. I think it will compensate a big part of the weight I'm putting in extra :)

hudson
07-12-2006, 03:55 PM
before the heavy doors? :p hhhmmm, so if the newer style are even heavier then the ones I took off....All removable parts are from polyester: hood, trunk, front, doors, fenders. I think it will compensate a big part of the weight I'm putting in extra :)

Yeah I think it was 1972 that they got the side impact beams. I'm not sure of the weights of either but they are both REALLY heavy, the ones with side impact beams are just more so.

koenvbr
03-11-2007, 08:47 AM
Finally I got my 164 front chassis sandblasted, searched very long after a bad car with good front end, cutted the floor out and removed the inner fenders from it. When the ones from the 140 are removed and these ones are in place I start fitting the glasfiber front. Many older pictures are gone since the old picture server closed. I'll try to put them back soon.

http://volvo162turbo.googlegroups.com/web/15.JPG

http://volvo162turbo.googlegroups.com/web/2.JPG

hudson
03-13-2007, 02:57 AM
yeH yEH! go koen. Keep at it man