PDA

View Full Version : Keep Your Engine Clean Inside


ElPiloto
04-29-2006, 05:51 PM
AutoRX is the best internal engine cleaner. I speak from experience.

They have a new website at: http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

This stuff is not snake oil, it really works, especially on high mileage engines.

From their website:

Did You Know? That 95 percent of engine problems are caused by contaminants such as carbon, oil sludge, dirt and other abrasives in your engine? These contaminants, combined with engine oil and extreme heat, create uneven hot spots and extremely harmful byproducts. The bad news is that the contamination process begins within the first 25,000 miles of your engine’s life! Auto-Rx® (U.S. Patent #6,544,349), is a specially formulated, all-natural metal cleaner designed to thoroughly clean the internals of your engine. Many years of real-world testing have gone into this formulation.

PWRPUFF
04-29-2006, 06:10 PM
Yep, it works, but it costs $$ too. Doing the Chinese water torture (to clean out the combustion chambers), ATF (to clean up the oil galleries/crankcase/etc.), Delo 400 or Rotella T, and a couple extra oil filters still runs cheaper than a bottle of RX.

-- Kane

impulse922
04-29-2006, 06:24 PM
how expensive is this stuff?

Al
04-29-2006, 07:38 PM
I been using it for almost 4 years and couldn't be happier. I have run it in my B230ft since I dropped it in 56 thousand miles ago. The area under the oil cap is as clean as the day I started that motor up. When I bought my 97 960 last year I ran an Auto-Rx treatment though it. Gas mileage was 26.3 mpg on the highway. After running the Auto-Rx cleaning cycle the mileage jumped to 27.4 mpg. The engine quieted down some and runs much smoother. It is one of the very few engine cleaners that does exactly what it says its going to do safely.

Camyman
04-30-2006, 12:43 AM
ill stick with chinese water torture thank you, you blasphemous monster.

745 TurboGreasel
04-30-2006, 01:29 AM
Did You Know? That 95 percent of engine problems are caused by contaminants such as carbon, oil sludge, dirt and other abrasives in your engine?

I call BS!
At least 50 % of engine problems are burnt valves, blown headgaskets, and timing belts, none of which have anything to do with dirt contamination.

fengler
04-30-2006, 03:55 AM
someone learn me on how to clean the internals of my engine w/o dropping it? whats this water and atf method you guys speak of?

PWRPUFF
04-30-2006, 04:26 AM
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=347940&postcount=1
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpost.php?p=227121&postcount=6

Les, slight limp
04-30-2006, 05:15 AM
Castrol gtx high mileage has extra cleaning stuff in it, i always run it for a thousand miles then new filter and more of the above for another thousand then mobil 1 every 3-5 thousand miles, it's crappy maintanence (spelling) and cheapo oil that causes sludge etc.

ElPiloto
04-30-2006, 02:19 PM
If you use Auto-Rx® and you are not completely satisfied with its performance, we will refund 100 percent of the purchase price.

The above is copied and pasted from their website.

740Weapon
04-30-2006, 02:21 PM
If you use Auto-Rx® and you are not completely satisfied with its performance, we will refund 100 percent of the purchase price.

are you trying to say that you work for them?

Poik
04-30-2006, 02:42 PM
A gallon of kero is not very much guys.

ElPiloto
04-30-2006, 05:10 PM
No, I don't work for them. I am a satisfied customer. This stuff is so good that it's worth telling friends about.

High detergent oil or solvent cleaners don't even come close.

They would not guarantee it if it didn't work as advertised. I posted here because it is ideal for Volvo engines and especially turbo Volvo engines.

Once you try it, you too will be a believer.

peehound
04-30-2006, 07:29 PM
CRAP.
Regular oil changes, just oil or better.

BRUNOP39
04-30-2006, 09:14 PM
Ever since i bought my 89 245 i have been changing the oil every 1500 miles,Yes i know its a low millage but its true.You guys can imagine how that engine is.Unfortunately not all volvo enthusiast here have done that,that i know of.Anyway lets give this friend here the benefit of the doubt.As a matter of fact i will try it with my other beat up car here.Thanks for the info on the RX stuff.Take care.All.
Bruno

benflynn
04-30-2006, 09:43 PM
95% caused by deposits and build up, i call bullsh1t, 95% is caused by too much boost

BRUNOP39
04-30-2006, 09:54 PM
hahahahha wish too much boost existed in my 89 245

rgalgon
04-30-2006, 09:58 PM
I don't know, I'm pretty darn happy with my seafoam, but almost $25 (shipped) for a bottle? Thats a bit too rich for my cheap blood

Camyman
05-01-2006, 01:10 AM
thats why you should stick with good ol seafoam.... not this imposter product that is not only inferior it costs more and does less.

towerymt
05-01-2006, 01:42 AM
I prefer 6k mile oil changes, no air filter, and frequent high rpm use coupled with low oil quantity (from leaks/usage). 234k miles, can't kill it......unless I really try, I don't think it will expire.

mikep
05-01-2006, 10:57 AM
CRAP.
I tried that, but Motor Medic worked better.

PWRPUFF
05-01-2006, 02:15 PM
not this imposter product that is not only inferior it costs more and does less.
Auto RX does work, but as I pointed out, there are less costly alternatives.

-- Kane

surfbug
09-20-2006, 01:29 AM
am I blind?

how many times did someone ask how expensive it was.....


was there an answer? I wanna know how much it costs...THE AUTO RX STUFF........in USD.....

then I will decide....


geeeeezzzzzzzzzz

SOUNDS like seafoam for me....just gotta find the right procedure....my 760 turbo ahs 225k on it, and has a new remaufactured turbo on since about 175 k.....

seafom in the oil? never heard of that one....explain please?

I thought it was gas tank, h20 thru the vac line, and then seafoam thru the vac line .....but there are enought threads here to verify...don ' t go by what I say!!!!!!

any one do the seafoam thing with a turbo and this many miles? just got the car, and don't want to fry anything.....




thanks....

al

bag3lbit3s
09-20-2006, 01:38 AM
I was more than happy with seafoaming my engine...

I chinese water tortured my b230f with about 93k on it, I pulled the head about 500 miles after that. The valves had hardly any carbon deposits on it...

Seafoam in the tank, oil, and through a vacuum. It's cheap and I know for a fact that the stuff works awesome. Not saying that the Auto Rx stuff doesn't work, but it's a bit steep of a price. And we know for a fact that seafoam works very effectively.

Wren
09-20-2006, 02:24 AM
It seems that the AutoRX is an oil treatment.

I've used the Chinese water torture Seafoam method and have been very pleased with the results.

How does Seafoam work when put in the engine oil? Does one add it and then run it for X miles and then change it out, or is it always left in?

mrbman7
09-20-2006, 02:30 AM
am I blind?

how many times did someone ask how expensive it was.....


was there an answer? I wanna know how much it costs........in USD.....

then I will decide....


geeeeezzzzzzzzzz

looks like 25 bucks a bottle. go to the website...:-P

Al
09-20-2006, 10:47 AM
Auto-Rx does something completely different than Seafoam or the Chinese Water torture. Auto-Rx is for your lubrication system. Neither Seafoam, water or a flush like gunk or Kerosene does what Auto-Rx does. This argument of just as good but much cheaper is like comparing apples and oranges. Auto-Rx is to clean the sludge out of the oil galleries and valve train, bottom of the oil pan and decarbon the piston rings. The other products are for the intake and valves. I changed my oil every 3000miles in my 745T and I still had sludge build up in the motor. When I replaced the oil pan gasket I was amazed at all the gunk at the bottom of the pan. My new motor has 60K miles on it and the valve train looks like the day I dropped it in. No varnish or discoloring of any kind. I run Mobil 1 and a maintenance dose of Auto-Rx in the motor. My 97 960's valve train looked like some one sprayed dark chocolate on it when I got the car. Last owner changed the oil every 5K miles with dino. After running an Auto-Rx treatment the valve train is as shinny as a new penny.

henry_sigourney
09-20-2006, 10:55 AM
You can also buy a water injection system which cleans your engine while you drive.

For example:

http://coolingmist.com/

You can also buy engine flush which you add to your oil just before you change it.

Wren
09-20-2006, 02:03 PM
Auto-Rx does something completely different than Seafoam or the Chinese Water torture. Auto-Rx is for your lubrication system. Neither Seafoam, water or a flush like gunk or Kerosene does what Auto-Rx does.

Actually Al, the Seafoam can says it can be used in the lubrication systems as well as in the fuel system. I've never used it in the oil, hence the above posting questioning its use in the lubrication system.

bag3lbit3s
09-20-2006, 07:45 PM
Just drop seafoam in the crankcase and let run for 5 minutes but do not rev it, just let it idle. Then drain oil and refil with new stuff. I've used gunk engine flush, and that stuff worked pretty darn well...I've never seen oil come out that black.

I'm actually due for an oil change, so this time I'm going to try and see how seafoam is and I'm going to also switch to Mobil 1.

Al
09-20-2006, 08:00 PM
The hot oil right now is Castrol Syntec. About a $1 cheaper than M1 per quart and with oil analysis it is giving better wear numbers across the board in most engines. Since my 960 is a strictly highway car and I have at least twelve quarts of M1 stashed away I'm keeping it on the M1 until I run out. On the other hand starting with the next oil change on my 745T I'm switching to Castrol Syntec. Pennzoil Platinum is also getting good reviews over at BITOG.

Wren
09-21-2006, 01:09 AM
I've thought about trying the Seafoam in the oil but haven't worked up the courage yet.

BDKR
09-21-2006, 02:46 AM
Auto-Rx does something completely different than Seafoam or the Chinese Water torture.

I was wondering when someone was going to point this out. :)

BDKR
09-21-2006, 02:49 AM
I've thought about trying the Seafoam in the oil but haven't worked up the courage yet.

There is some other stuff out there that I can't remember the name of that is to be run in your oil. However, it just pour it it right before you do an oil change and let the car idle for like 5 to 10 minutes only then dump the oil. This is the kind of thing I would do and have done on two seperate occasions on my engine.

And I will throw in that my engine is so quiet under the hood that I can't tell the car is running except for the exhaust racket.

taskmule
09-21-2006, 04:01 PM
Actually Al, the Seafoam can says it can be used in the lubrication systems as well as in the fuel system. I've never used it in the oil, hence the above posting questioning its use in the lubrication system.

I used it in my oil before a change, and in my tranny before a service(filter/gasket etc) as well. Both fluids are running alot cleaner now. And the engine purrs. It's a pretty good deal for $5, I'd say you can used it with confidence. Never tried the RX, so I have no opinion on that.

taskmule
09-21-2006, 04:40 PM
AutoRX is the best internal engine cleaner. I speak from experience.

They have a new website at: http://www.auto-rx.com/index.html

This stuff is not snake oil, it really works, especially on high mileage engines.

From their website:

Did You Know? That 95 percent of engine problems are caused by contaminants such as carbon, oil sludge, dirt and other abrasives in your engine? These contaminants, combined with engine oil and extreme heat, create uneven hot spots and extremely harmful byproducts. The bad news is that the contamination process begins within the first 25,000 miles of your engine’s life! Auto-Rx® (U.S. Patent #6,544,349), is a specially formulated, all-natural metal cleaner designed to thoroughly clean the internals of your engine. Many years of real-world testing have gone into this formulation.


Just looked over the website. This is enough to stop me from ever trying it;


Auto-Rx® Automotive Application Instructions

How to Stop Seal Leaks

Before you start the seal-leak procedure be sure that you are using regular, non-synthetic oil. Non-synthetic oil must be used for the entire application. The composition of non-synthetic oil is best suited to work with Auto-Rx® to help clean behind the seals and set it tight against the metal.

And;
Auto-Rx Ongoing Maintenance Plan

For continuous and long-term protection 3 ounces of Auto-Rx® should be added with each oil change. In addition, you should continue to use non-synthetic oil for maximum benefit.

In short, say goodbye to synthetic oil if you are going to use Auto-RZ. Not for me, no way.

Jon P.
01-11-2014, 11:58 PM
You bumped a thread that is nearly a decade old for a liquid that did not solve internal mechanical problems for $25? Do not give advice on anything, please.

coonmanx
01-12-2014, 01:23 AM
Wow, 2006. Now that is a thread revival.

MistrThou
01-12-2014, 02:59 AM
Prolly spam. Gonna report for a buzz kill.

AJS
01-12-2014, 04:20 AM
Pretty normal to find leaks after "cleaning" an engine.
Pretty normal for Subaru's of that vintage to have head leaks.

I didn't read through all the crap that was posted though BUT it's perfectly normal for forums to protect certain members, especially if they put $$$ towards the forum in any way.

apachechef
01-12-2014, 04:30 AM
Actual snake oil is even better, and if you get one of those sooper venomous Aussie ones, that **** with clead your engine to bare metal and help expand the seals that are leaking to tighten them up.
PM me, I got some from a recent trip to the outback. makes seafoam look like windex

bob davi
01-13-2014, 01:33 AM
There is some other stuff out there that I can't remember the name of that is to be run in your oil. However, it just pour it it right before you do an oil change and let the car idle for like 5 to 10 minutes only then dump the oil. This is the kind of thing I would do and have done on two seperate occasions on my engine.

And I will throw in that my engine is so quiet under the hood that I can't tell the car is running except for the exhaust racket.
************************************************** ***********

I know Amsoil makes something you add to oil prior to changing...you dump it in and let engine idle 1500-2000rpm for about 15 minutes, then drain oil. I have also heard of people putting 8-12 ounces of diesel fuel, kerosene, or tranny fluid in the oil and doing same thing prior to changing oil.

My 95 Lincoln Towncar with 4.6 litre has burned a qt every 1000 miles since I bought it with 130,000 miles on it. Over the last few years I have added every type of "snake oil" on the Walmart/O'Reilly shelf..Motor Honey, Restore, Marvel Mystery, Seafoam, tranny fluid, Risolene, Lucas, and some straight 50W ashless dispersant Aviation oil....even found a can of good old "STP"

I don't know which one worked, but I have driven the last 1300 miles and not burned a drop..?? Who knows what happened, but it appears to have stopped using oil at 211,000 miles, so I'll keep an eye on things. Since it burned oil, I was using the cheapest stuff on the shelf as I figured it didn't matter if it stopped running. It's fun to have an engine you can experiment on by pouring ANYTHING down the lubrican tube!!:lol:

FWIW, on another site, (Chevelles.com)an oil test guy, aka "tribologist" did alot of testing on different additives and said the "Prolong" oil additive showed real good results in increasing wear protection of 5 oils he tried it in. The guy has done a lot of testing and seems to call it like it is/no favorites, but he liked this stuff and said it did as advertised. Said it took these oils(Amsoil,Valvoline,Pennzoil,Castrol) from excellent wear protection to Outstanding. I would "assume" if the wear goes down, the friction goes down, and you might see a MPG difference, but everyones "mileage may vary" on this claim.

Maybe I need to try some Prolong and EngineRx on my real-life "R&D" Towncar platform..??

Bob

Mungulz
01-13-2014, 10:11 AM
Since this thread decided to come back..

My Kjet volvo has really bad carbon buildup on the pistons and head/valves.

I think it was bad enough to cause pre ignition. (b230e so higher comp i think)

I always run highest octane fuel, it's possible it's running rich, but it spends a bit of time at WOT so I would have thought thats unavoidable.

Any ideas? Seafoam? worth doing?

JohnLane
01-13-2014, 03:36 PM
Since this thread decided to come back..

My Kjet volvo has really bad carbon buildup on the pistons and head/valves.

I think it was bad enough to cause pre ignition. (b230e so higher comp i think)

I always run highest octane fuel, it's possible it's running rich, but it spends a bit of time at WOT so I would have thought thats unavoidable.

Any ideas? Seafoam? worth doing?

Seafoam for you.... The thread is about snake oil put into the oil to clean up the ick everywhere BUT the combustion chamber.

lummert
01-13-2014, 03:53 PM
Actual snake oil is even better, and if you get one of those sooper venomous Aussie ones, that **** with clead your engine to bare metal and help expand the seals that are leaking to tighten them up.
PM me, I got some from a recent trip to the outback. makes seafoam look like windex

I was wondering when the term "snake oil" would be mentioned.

JohnLane
01-13-2014, 04:14 PM
Actual snake oil is even better, and if you get one of those sooper venomous Aussie ones, that **** with clead your engine to bare metal and help expand the seals that are leaking to tighten them up.
PM me, I got some from a recent trip to the outback. makes seafoam look like windex

Oh damn! You were able to get it through customs??? Well done!

Sign me up!

smokeyfan1000
01-13-2014, 06:14 PM
Something to think about......

breaking loose 200,000 to 800,000 miles worth of seriously neglected , 20 + year old Volvo redblock internal engine sludge and varnish, all at one time/application...might not produce the stellar results you're hoping for..............

Silver
01-13-2014, 07:39 PM
http://www.toothbrushhq.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/sonicare_toothbrush.jpg

Works every time.

JohnLane
01-13-2014, 08:40 PM
Something to think about......

breaking loose 200,000 to 800,000 miles worth of seriously neglected , 20 + year old Volvo redblock internal engine sludge and varnish, all at one time/application...might not produce the stellar results you're hoping for..............

Uh-oh!! :ninja:

In Mom's car that got run on Pennzoil forever and had the THICK layer of wax all over the inside of it......

Mobil-1 10/30 changed every 3000-4000 miles.... Over the course of a year the inside of it cleaned up like new.

Mylesofsmyles
01-13-2014, 09:03 PM
good gasoline (Chevron or 76) and Diesel motor oil, with regular changes is all I do, and my engine stay squeak free & clean.

smokeyfan1000
01-13-2014, 09:56 PM
Uh-oh!! :ninja:

In Mom's car that got run on Pennzoil forever and had the THICK layer of wax all over the inside of it......

Mobil-1 10/30 changed every 3000-4000 miles.... Over the course of a year the inside of it cleaned up like new.

Better to use a full syn oil and perform frequent changes to clean up the inside of engine gradually, than to use an "all at once" product IMHO.:nod:

I've found BP's Amoco Ultimate premium 93 octane gas to keep piston tops and valves super clean too. Ventil Sauber once in a while helps too.

But seems everyone's hooked on snake oils.............

apollo's 940
01-15-2014, 06:24 PM
saw this posting of nick choy:

start

Simple solution: Go buy the cheapest ATF on the shelf at GI Joes... enough to do two changes, along with two cheap oil filters. Drain out all your current oil (if there's any in there), put one of the cheap filters on the motor, fill it to normal capacity with the ATF, run it for 30 minutes, shut her down, drain it all out, rinse... repeat... just like shampoo.

You'd be surprised by all the crud that comes out.

And remember, DO NOT drive your car around with the ATF in there. Torque does strange things to bearings when the oil lacks viscosity...

end

I want to do it. how safe is this procedure? has anyone tried it and how many times in how long a period?

atf is just so thin compared to regular engine oil. what is it in atf tht can clean the internals?

thanks,
andrew

MadMainer
01-18-2014, 11:11 AM
the Web site says $27/ bottle.

Also I goggled the trans fluid technique, there seem to be varied opinions. Some say yes it works, some say crap it does not. Guess you would just have to try it to find out. You weight the options and make a choice...me I rebuild.

naterhater
01-18-2014, 03:31 PM
I call BS!
At least 50 % of engine problems are burnt valves, blown headgaskets, and timing belts, none of which have anything to do with dirt contamination.

50% of old turbo volvo problems are burnt valves etc...

Out of all the cars on the road engine sludge and the contamination they mention are definitely the causes of the most common engine problems. Nobody remembers to change their oil and that is definitely the single biggest cause of common and preventable engine problems.

Your statement is wrong anyway, blown head gaskets and burnt valves can both be caused by carbon buildup on top of the pistons. This isn't necessarily something that is common since nearly all the gasoline available is good quality and not everyone's engines are sending a ton of oil through the combustion chamber. But its definitely possible.

smokeyfan1000
01-20-2014, 12:50 AM
IMHO, 50-70% of old non rebuilt B21-B230 turbo motor problems usually has more to do with hi milage and excessive cylinder, piston and ring wear (read low cranking compression figures) due to above atmospheric pressure supplied by the turbo, as compared to a n/a engine with same mileage. And of course previous owner/s poor maintenance.

84B23F
01-20-2014, 01:23 AM
Better to use a full syn oil and perform frequent changes to clean up the inside of engine gradually, than to use an "all at once" product IMHO.:nod:.

I always do "hot" oil changes....and manually remove oil pan if PO has created sludge in its bottom. Sludge in pan is gone with hot oil changes.

Cleaning inside of engine...I don't think I'd want to disturb it with chemical treatments. Jerk the head(s), and clean them and piston's carbon up.