View Full Version : I am offically LH less!!!! :-D
linuxman51
08-30-2003, 04:20 AM
Thats right, I got the megasquirt'n spark stuff to work, too bad i fould my plugs out or it woulda been the first volvo running with squirt n spark ( but that shall come in the morning. more than likely fouled the plugs when i didnt move the right wires thurs afternoon).
At any rate, A technical write up follows in two parts.. :
Part A, the big schtick, getting megasquirt to talk to your hall sensor (sorry, lh 2.4 need not aply here, i dont think, too many teeth not enough options in the code/software... yet.. the good news is you can get a distributor with what you need for cheap cheap at a junkyard so this isnt a big deal).
What I did was jump D8 and D5, and if you need to power the sensor, pull a wire from JP1-8 (the one closest to the JP1 stamp) to one of the un-used pins on the connecter (there are several).
Next you will need a 1k pull up resistor to get megasquirt to see the signal (this is what I orrignally left out at the dragstrip, my instructions were incomplete), I ran a lead from the power lead on the harness to the tach/coil signal wire on the harness and bam, hall signal, clean rpm signal, no random 16,000 rpm spikes,
Now, for the Spark part:
The big hurdle, the hall sensor pickup has been taken care of, so all we need to do now is talk to that little box mounted in the fender (excitor box)
my car came with 0 -227-100-124, so thats what the rest of this schtick concerns itself with (yes, i'm a tad drunk).
Pin 1 on the module goes to the negative pole on the coil
Pin 2 is the unit's ground
Pin 3 is the ground for the ignition signal (the trigger for the coil)
Pin 4 is a switched 12v power to the module (wire this in with the coil + side, makes life easier)
Pin 5 is the signal. This is where you're going to run the Fidle signal to, AFTER you put another 1k pullup resistor on the wire. Again, you can tap into the megasquirt power line and then run it over to the fast idle wire. I tried without this and got nothing, and then a kind soul on the mailing list suggested this, saving me time and money at radioshack (for a solution that more than likely would not have worked).
Thats it. Oh yea, you'll need the megasquirt'n spark code, in order to retain the volvo coolant temp values you need to get easytherm to update that file, then I jumped the boot on the controller and flashed it using the download program.
Have fun kids 8-)
the poi
08-30-2003, 04:43 AM
sounds absolutely tasty. and here i was worried about lacking lh2.4 when i need the lh 2.2 setup anyway. whats the wattage disipation needed for the 1k resistors?
also, are you running high CR pistons? regardless, post your MS settings for us!
linuxman51
08-30-2003, 04:56 AM
my ms settings are absolute **** right now.. if you want 10mpg's i'll post em :) I just got a pack of radioshack resistors, 1/4 watt, 5% tolerance 1k-ohm
i think they were 50 cents for a pack of 5
yes, i'm still using na pistons (bone stock from the bottom of the cam journals to the bottom of the block (i.e. cam and a hole in the oil pan :wink: )
linuxman51
09-01-2003, 01:16 AM
cranked up and ran today, had to blip the throttle to get it to do so, and looking back I remember seeing priming pulse set to zero, maybe thats got something to do with it (i didnt change fuel stuff last, so theres no telling.. we were messing with the accel bins). idles kinda lopey, but I haven't finished setting up the spark stuff, so thats to be expected. After some time with a timing light, we'll see where things are, but if it works as prescribed, this stands to be one of the single best mods anyone serious about performance (esp on a budget) could do to their car
z537z
09-02-2003, 10:19 PM
Great to hear.
How much ($$$) to put MS and (what spark system'd you use?) MSD or whatever onto my LH2.4? It's WAY down the road but while I got you here...You said "esp on a budget." Maybe cheapness is a sense...
_z
linuxman51
09-03-2003, 01:47 AM
spark control is handled on board along with the fuel control (i.e. I'm using one megasquirt controller to run everything).
Eventually I might invest in a msd box for ignition amp. purposes only (no need for a btm if you can set the timing curve yourself).
How much it would cost you? i'm not really sure. for what i'm using you'll need a 240 distro with a hall sensor, an intake air temp sensor, and a variable throttle position sensor. I've got good friends so the only thing I had to buy was the intake air temp (and since the twigs are coming down to get their car i guess i oughta put their intake temp housing back on their car... hmm.. need 5 inches of 3i.d. pvc..).
and then there are the small things that try to add up (I beat em! I beat em! i used yellow wires for signal wires! now i dont know where anything is going under my hood! actually no, its all labeled and getting cleaned the hell up _very_ soon), connectors, shrink tubing (big lots) solder, wire, etc.
at the momen I figure i've got right around 200 in my setup, its going to go up to around 250 or so before all is said and done, but most of thats going towards things like a disconnect block for the megasquirt harness (so i can power it from my pc and work on things up here), relocation of all the underhood wiring and re-running of all the sensor wires (i was in a hurry when i did it the first time, hence, if i didnt have something and i could make something else work, well, there ya go).
But seriously, programmable fuel and igntion for $110 shipped (plus some man hours to assemble and whatever soldering equipment you can't beg/borrow/steal), thats just beyond cheap. and it seems to work so well (the fuel. my laptop experienced a sudden demise before i could finish my ignition, but it cranked and ran, so the code works, its a matter of me getting it setup right now)
Hank Scorpio
09-03-2003, 08:08 PM
Kenny, this should either be stuck, or copy and pasted into the main MS thread.
Ok, what models us hall sensors?
Say I wanted to intergrate a head mounted dizzy on a 16v head would I be able to do that?
linuxman51
09-04-2003, 01:45 AM
first twigs.. its still *my* car right now :wink:
doug: I'm using the hall sensor off of an 84-ish 240 (b23f). No particular reason other than that was what was free. I do recomend you use the block mounted sensor, as they tend to last longer and not flake out as easy, but if you wanted to use an lh 2.2 sensor in the back of a 16v head, sure, you could, now why would you want to :badboy: :-D
(and I did nothing to modify the signal coming from my head mounted unit when i switched to the block mounted unit)
The problem with the headmounted units (and I discussed this with robin at the meet, see what you missed?) is that its easy for crap to leak down in them and that does all kinds of nasty things to the hall signal = not wanted. so even if the intake on the head prevented you from using it for the spark and such (and in case you didnt know, 16v "hall" sensors are just dummies, they get the signal from the crank) you should still be able to snag a clean signal from it and pass it along to the coil and so on and so forth. don't think I havent thought about this :) (if I pop a gasket or break a t belt i'm going straight to the 16v, it looks too pretty on my counter not to use 8-) )
As a side note, I spoke with the guy that wrote the spark code, and it looks like i'm the head of the "megasquirt'n spark with knock sensor input" department, so I'm going to be busting my ass trying to get that going as well. I can't wait, its going to be great if i can make it work, the major constraint is the 100 bytes or so of free ram left on the controller, so I'll be starting off basic and working it from there.
if anyone's got technical manuals on the bosch knock sensor(s) and/or is proficient at assembly (or at least better than me, I'm kinda sucky at it), drop me a pm, I'd like to be testing this stuff at the latest in early october.
donalson
09-04-2003, 02:08 AM
a friend recently got his car MS and the beingings of MJ... http://www.4agte.com/images/mr2wiring.jpg look over his setup a bit mroe at www.4agte.com
for the crank signal he pulled the crank trigger wheel and sensor from the ford 1.9 edis ignition crap and modified it to fit the mr2 he used that signal for the tach signal to the MS.
another mr2 guy just finished up his homebrew mega jolt light jr controler... it works well he says but he's trying to work some of the bugs out before he gets a real run of the boards made
mark
z537z
09-04-2003, 05:22 PM
Whoa whoa... you gotta use assembly with MS? WEAAAK.
_z
GTJordan
09-04-2003, 06:01 PM
you gotta use assembly?
what are you saying? Since you have to assemble it it is "weeeeeak?"
Or is it a code thing?
Jordan
linuxman51
09-04-2003, 07:45 PM
Whoa whoa... you gotta use assembly with MS? WEAAAK.
_z
weak? if by weak you mean hardcore.. you could do it in c++ and then trust the compiler to translate really well into asm
or you could bite the bullet and do it in assembly
asm isnt that hard, just a bit tedious
z537z
09-04-2003, 08:03 PM
Yeah see I was imagining a system in which you plugged in teh comp and a nice color menu popped up with easy instructions, and bunny rabbits and rainbows...
Yeah wouldn't get NEAR anything with C code, too many variations in it. And it's slower.
Yeah ASM isn't bad, I'm just pissed you have to use anything at all!
Ah well, I can do it. Later...
_z
linuxman51
09-04-2003, 08:48 PM
Yeah see I was imagining a system in which you plugged in the comp and a nice color menu popped up with easy instructions, and bunny rabbits and rainbows...
Yeah wouldn't get NEAR anything with C code, too many variations in it. And it's slower.
Yeah ASM isn't bad, I'm just pissed you have to use anything at all!
Ah well, I can do it. Later...
_z
hahaha to set it up to run on your car you just hook it up to a laptop... I'm talking about actual firmware code for a knock sensor input. the tuning is all done from megatune and its various spinoffs :-)
The Aspirator
09-10-2003, 03:23 AM
Man, $110 for the unit is WAY cheaper than I expected it to be!!! Even with say an extra hundred bucks in parts, thats just dirt cheap. Looks like this is even closer to my car than I thought.... :twisted:
I'm looking forward to programming it all myself. My dad's been programming for 20 years, probably be easy with his help. Actually I told him about it and he's quite curious. Be fun to drive around tuning it with him.
Does megasquirt "NEED" a wideband O2? Can it be done acuratly with just a narrow band one, provided it's new? If not, I think Jordan was saying that you really only need the wideband for tuning purposes, but doesn't the MS constantly read the O2 output?
Thanks guys,
John
linuxman51
09-10-2003, 09:07 AM
Does megasquirt "NEED" a wideband O2? Can it be done acuratly with just a narrow band one, provided it's new? If not, I think Jordan was saying that you really only need the wideband for tuning purposes, but doesn't the MS constantly read the O2 output?
Its your engine :wink:
You could get a pretty decent base map with a narrowband and then take the car to a dyno, datalog datalog datalog
luke242ti
09-10-2003, 06:45 PM
Does megasquirt "NEED" a wideband O2? Can it be done acuratly with just a narrow band one, provided it's new? If not, I think Jordan was saying that you really only need the wideband for tuning purposes, but doesn't the MS constantly read the O2 output?
Thanks guys,
John
As kenny said it doesnt necessarily need it, but if you can get a wideband for $40 that is cheaper than one dyno run :-) GTJordan PMed me with information saying that those sensors from what he has heard dont have problems.
http://forums.turbobricks.com/viewtopic.php?t=9146&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=
I plan on picking a WB sensor up sometime before years out, and assembling the MS kit.
take care
Luke
nrvate
09-11-2003, 10:26 AM
great info here, thanks for the post mr linux ;)
I had no idea megasquirt was so affordable :D
cheers,
-n
[edited for typo]
linuxman51
09-11-2003, 10:40 AM
no prob. Hopefully me and sam can get the wiring and passenger seat knocked out today and I can get some real numbers, so far i've been working on two laps around the block (And idling for a little bit, crank pulley fell off). I'll throw up some numbers as they come in :)
hockey930
09-11-2003, 11:04 AM
It looks like you have done a great job, I am impressed. I am thinking that somewhere down the line I may have to give this a shot.
(your crank pully fell off, that's just awsome, I have never known anyone that has happend too)
good luck
Eamonn
Hank Scorpio
09-11-2003, 12:55 PM
(your crank pully fell off, that's just awsome, I have never known anyone that has happend too)
good luck
Eamonn
Theres probably a reason you don't know anyone that hasn't happened too :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:
linuxman51
09-12-2003, 12:27 AM
i dont get it. its my fault, i didnt get it on tight enough :)
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