linuxman51
08-01-2006, 12:42 PM
For those times your car breaks down 900 miles from home after you put vice grips on the fuel return to get the afrs better ( :cough: )
I'll kick this off but I hardly plan on being the cheif contributor, so add what ya know works (including stuff that will work with minor mods, i.e. hand tools and such that can be procured from the same store as the parts).
Fuel pressure regulators:
Dodge 2.2 turbo
Porsche from ~ 85-95 apprx (basically any porsche with mpfi/motronic)
Bmw 3series from about 84-93
Ford truck fpr (Drops right in), likely the one off a ford ranger, but this is as of yet unverified (waiting on billy to get back to us on this)
for those pesky transmission mounts (curtesy of hockey930):
A tire innertube wrapped around the back of the transmission.
Borked motor mount? a ratchet strap, and any small block of wood/dense plastic (ratchet over first to get the item in, then ratchet down to keep it snug. it goes without saying that one should hence forth not beat on the car until the problem is resolved).
Altered rear suspension geometry (guess who).. ratchet strap again.
Leaking brake caliper? (this one from 004mplaywright)
crush the lines (but try to do it in a mannor that wont create a bigger leak)
E-fan not working after that megasquirt install( 940 owners), relay triggered off of the radio suppression relay to turn the low speed on with the key. This relay needs to go to earth instead of positive.
Spun a rod bearing before the big track day? can't get a new set in time? Source a spare bearing from another engine if possible (if not,well you're done), pick the nicest one. Get some scotch bright pad, and 2000+ grit sand paper, brake parts cleaner, thick dino oil and a new filter.
Pull pan, locate the offending rod, remove cap. Remove bearing (or whats left). use the scotchbright pad first, then the sandpaper for the really thick bearing material thats stuck to the crankshaft, cleaning as you go and taking care not to get **** into the oiling hole (as this would further shorten the already short life expectancy of the "new" bearing).
get the crank as shinny as possible, then clean any bearing material off of the rod and rod cap, give everything a once over with brake cleaner and lube up the bearing and journal, reinstall and torque the rod. make sure you clean any crap off the oil pump pickup screen and out of the pan. drive it around easy for a little bit, then drift around the road course the next day.
Budget new motor into the car's mod cost.
I'll kick this off but I hardly plan on being the cheif contributor, so add what ya know works (including stuff that will work with minor mods, i.e. hand tools and such that can be procured from the same store as the parts).
Fuel pressure regulators:
Dodge 2.2 turbo
Porsche from ~ 85-95 apprx (basically any porsche with mpfi/motronic)
Bmw 3series from about 84-93
Ford truck fpr (Drops right in), likely the one off a ford ranger, but this is as of yet unverified (waiting on billy to get back to us on this)
for those pesky transmission mounts (curtesy of hockey930):
A tire innertube wrapped around the back of the transmission.
Borked motor mount? a ratchet strap, and any small block of wood/dense plastic (ratchet over first to get the item in, then ratchet down to keep it snug. it goes without saying that one should hence forth not beat on the car until the problem is resolved).
Altered rear suspension geometry (guess who).. ratchet strap again.
Leaking brake caliper? (this one from 004mplaywright)
crush the lines (but try to do it in a mannor that wont create a bigger leak)
E-fan not working after that megasquirt install( 940 owners), relay triggered off of the radio suppression relay to turn the low speed on with the key. This relay needs to go to earth instead of positive.
Spun a rod bearing before the big track day? can't get a new set in time? Source a spare bearing from another engine if possible (if not,well you're done), pick the nicest one. Get some scotch bright pad, and 2000+ grit sand paper, brake parts cleaner, thick dino oil and a new filter.
Pull pan, locate the offending rod, remove cap. Remove bearing (or whats left). use the scotchbright pad first, then the sandpaper for the really thick bearing material thats stuck to the crankshaft, cleaning as you go and taking care not to get **** into the oiling hole (as this would further shorten the already short life expectancy of the "new" bearing).
get the crank as shinny as possible, then clean any bearing material off of the rod and rod cap, give everything a once over with brake cleaner and lube up the bearing and journal, reinstall and torque the rod. make sure you clean any crap off the oil pump pickup screen and out of the pan. drive it around easy for a little bit, then drift around the road course the next day.
Budget new motor into the car's mod cost.