Valve job or not? b230ft

[stluciemotors]

I just picked up a clean 91 740 Turbo Wagon with 138k miles. It blew a head gasket for no apparent reason. The head gasket burned through between number 1 and 2 cylinders. It was not overheated, but I can see that the head was off previously so it could have been overheated before that. Anyway I am having the head resurfaced for good measure and I'm debating on whether to do a valve job while I'm at it. The shop that is resurfacing the head says they can give me a nice 3 or 5 angle valve job for $125. What do you think? I would probably have to supply valve stem seals and shims as this is a general engine machine shop not specializing in Volvo.

[bag3lbit3s]

It's sort of all up to you...if money isn't a problem definately do it while it's off. Mine blew the headgasket in the same spot...and right next to #3, mine was n/a and only about 93k on it. Car was never driven hard and oil and coolant were done when needed. :e-shrug:

[Chumley360]

If it's going to be at the shop anyway I say do it. But that's just what I'd do.

[some guy]

Uhhmmm....
Unless you're buying new valves, no. The OEM stuff is stellite coated and sodium filled, so machining them is bad karma.

[stylngle2003]

only the exhaust valves are sodium filled. doing a valve job on the intake wouldnt be that bad an idea, if its already at the shop. should bring the cost down too

[Unregistered]

Uhhmmm....
Unless you're buying new valves, no. The OEM stuff is stellite coated and sodium filled, so machining them is bad karma.

the valves do have some forgiveness to being refaced, but the 3 or 5 angle valve seat grind would be nice if you're looking for a step to build on for performance. $125 for a multi-angle grind is a good price, but if you're not looking to grab the ponies but just get on the road a reliable build, just look at getting the valves lapped in. It's a lot cheaper and at 138,000 miles it would probably use at least that.

[Tabor]

I recently had by valves reground for $100. I asked the machinist about the stelite coating and he said that if the valve wasn't pitted at all they just shaved the tiniest bit off and it would be okay. If the vavle was pitted it would have to be replaced (none of mine were pitted). Maybe I was lied to?

[some guy]

I recently had by valves reground for $100. I asked the machinist about the stelite coating and he said that if the valve wasn't pitted at all they just shaved the tiniest bit off and it would be okay. If the vavle was pitted it would have to be replaced (none of mine were pitted). Maybe I was lied to?

No, you're fine - lapping the vales in is good, I was talking about 3 or 5 angle valve jobs being bad for the coating.

[mattyfro]

Just lap them in. Way less hastle and you most likely won't need to do a valve job.

[stluciemotors]

Ok guys, thanks for the replies. I have another question now. The machine shop said it took 0.024" to clean up the warpage. This is more of a cut than I had hoped for as I'm not looking to increase compression. What do you think? I this going to be a problem on a turbo motor?

[davidmacq]

It's more than Volvo recommends. Check out the Singh grooves thread. Might want to give that a try to help out with the extra compression. :D

[k4dje]

Ok guys, thanks for the replies. I have another question now. The machine shop said it took 0.024" to clean up the warpage. This is more of a cut than I had hoped for as I'm not looking to increase compression. What do you think? I this going to be a problem on a turbo motor?

Was the cam removed?

[dl242gt]

Shaving the head a lot changes the relationship of the cam to the head. If you do still use the head you may want to get an adjustable cam gear or an offset pin for the camshaft to correct the cam timing. The machine shop should know this if they work on OHC engines. Volvo engines aren't the only engine this happens to. They should have a source for the offset dowel pins. You can buy an adjustable cam gear from 245gti or IPD.

[stluciemotors]

Was the cam removed?

I don't think the cam was removed. I'm wondering if the warpage would have put the cam in a bind. I hadn't thought about the change in cam timing either. How much do you think it will change? 1-2 degrees? If I'm thinking about it correctly the cam timing will be retarded. Is this correct? Thanks for all the input.

[stluciemotors]

Well, I got the head back on this thing tonight. I'll find out soon how it's going to run with the 0.024" shaved from the head. I'm looking into an adjustable cam gear now. I'm also going to make myself one of those diy manual boost controllers once I get it going. I'll post the results once I've got it running. Thanks to everyone for the input.

[davidmacq]

My b230ft in a 90 got shaved about 20 thou, I got a dales adjustable cam gear. Will be interested in how the timing works out for yah. You find the gears for sale?
D

[stluciemotors]

My b230ft in a 90 got shaved about 20 thou, I got a dales adjustable cam gear. Will be interested in how the timing works out for yah. You find the gears for sale?
D

Just got everything back together tonight and drove the car. It runs well even on the 18month old gas that was in the tank. It had 1/4 tank so I topped it up with 93 octane. I didn't hear any detonation even before I added fuel so I guess the shaving of the head .024" hasn't made a drastic change in Cr. I haven't found any pics of this gear yet. The website seems to have issues with the links.

I have to get my calibrated boost gauge on it next and start building my MBC.