How to setup a 15g/16t/18t/19t for RWD

[thelostartof]

i know a smart man would not do this as it MIGHT hurt my selling of turbo business BUT i'm more about helping people so here goes

ok so first you get the turbo unbolt everything, and take it apart remove the guide pins ... haha and clean it (i have pics of this but i need to find them so i'll add them later)

and NOW from there you assemble it pics should speak more than words .. if you have any questions please ask

http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6948.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6947.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6946.JPG

notice the drilled out hole... you need to remove the two studs and drill out the holes so it fits a 90+
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6945.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6944.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6943.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6942.JPG

now once you figure out the clocking of the center you drop it in and reinstall the snap ring (two ways to align it one is by eye and the other i will NOT tell)
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6941.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6940.JPG


remember the oil feed hole goes on TOP
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6939.JPG

now it is easy .. just clock/align the turbine with the center and bolt it on .. i have two ways of doing this one is by eye and the other i will not tell because i am a punk
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6938.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6937.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6936.JPG

once it is all together a quick and easy bracket will do the job(it is really thin and there is a nut welded onto the back of the actuator to space it off just a little to keep the thing bracket from bending along with should be enough toget some good preload and adjustment of the arm
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6935.JPG
http://www.thelostartof.net/howto15g_6934.JPG

you can see the nut i welded on for spacing
http://www.thelostartof.net/15g1_6935.JPG

so there ya go .. does that help anyone? or make anyone want to buy a turbo from me? hehe

one key that i might not of mentioned was that if you are swaping in a Mitsu TD04HL into a 90+ turbo car will drop in with all of the OEM oil feed and return lines unless your car has a T25 in which the feed does work but requires one hell of a custom WG setup

if you have an older turbo car you WILL need to get the mitsu oil feed and return lines along w/ the water cooling lines and banjo bolts off another 90+ turbo car

OR you could build your own custom line .. which there are other threads with that info in that i will link here once i find them

[Oreo931]

yes! i am going to be buying a turbo from you after/during my winter break...i believe it starts the 14th and i will start working soon after that...so be prepared for me to be buying a turbo from you between mid december-late january! :) i cant wait.

[thelostartof]

oh and those who like pimp my ride .. you can do the same your turbo turbo with a little metallic flake paint

http://hardcars.com/thepriestmike/hj15g_6731.JPG

[PetesDustyVolvo]

snap rings for the mfl :-P not really

man this makes me think maybe i should rewrite the fuel injector guides when I get home

gj mike

[thelostartof]

snap rings are so so so easy

1000x easier than those bolts on teh t3 ... i hate removing those. i took apart like 3 t3's this weekend, and two 15g's ...mmm turbos

[PetesDustyVolvo]

snap rings are so so so easy

1000x easier than those bolts on teh t3 ... i hate removing those. i took apart like 3 t3's this weekend, and two 15g's ...mmm turbos

dont tell anyone there are only 5/6 bolts on my exhaust housing

[JW240]

ok thanks for the writeup. There is a 15G with 20k miles for sale at the moment, maybe i'll pick it up... :-D

Isnt it possible/easyer to use the actuator of a 13C?

[thelostartof]

not really, i'll get some pics of a 13c actuator i have here, the issue is the 13c actuator is weaker than the 15g one .. so up to you to use what you want. and the 13c one will not just bolt to the 15g it still requires a bracket to fit

[smith_t240]

Mike does awesome work, if you can't tell.

[ikyikthe1st]

I definitely think I'll be buying one of these...after I find a car to put it in, of course. :D

[Hank Scorpio]

the snap ring on holsets are like 200000# of tension. OMG

[thelostartof]

send me a holset i'll see if i can remove it

[thelostartof]

bump for the new working TB

[Mesoam]

you should just pickup a bunch of 90+ mani's and sell the turbo/mani's ready to bolt on...

[thelostartof]

i have like 3 90+ here so

what i need to do is find a place to get 8v head flanges and make custom manifolds with these turbos and sell bolt on manifold/turbo/downpipe setups

[Aoder1]

holy cow, i want a 15g, but i have no funds, but i will seek here for when i have $$$$

[BDKR]

Just as an addendum, make sure you get the clocking right or else you'll find that your oil return is in the way of wg actuator arm. If the CHRA is allready clamped onto the turbine housing, you can loosen the clamp (don't remove it) then rotate the CHRA a little. You can also loosen the snap ring a little and rotate the comp housing without removal.

Can you tell I had to this a little bit? :oops: :)

Good write up Mike!

[thelostartof]

well if you have a 13c handy you can clock it off that, or just throw it on the car and mark it where it SHOULD be with the oil return bolted in and no compressor housing on it .. and then go from there and make teh WG bracket

[B Mac66]

i have a 95 redblock with 60k miles on it sitting on my garage floor....manifold is on it, but no turbo...is this something i should look into?? the 15g is off an 850??

[thelostartof]

yes it is a very nice upgrade for pretty cheap

and yes the conical 15g's were off the 94-96(early) 850's

[Unregistered]

I want to purchase one of your turbos and a down pipe if possible. I cannot pm you because I am registered but unable to post. I tried to register again, but I never get the confirmation email to activate me. Can you please give me some other way to contact you? Also, if someone is reading this that can fix my registration, I would appreciate it as this is causing a delay in my Brick's progress...and my need for boosted goodness ;)

Thanks,
Doug

[Unregistered]

I forgot...my registered name is NC244GLT

[thelostartof]

right now the only turbo i have is a fully rebuilt 15g that i still need to setup(it is being rebuilt right now) so ... $450 dshipped for that one

and you can contact me @ thelostartof at thelostartof.net

[Unregistered]

So that one would be basically "new" condition clocked to RWD? Do you have DP's available yet?

[amargill19?]

kool. so whats the ideal turbo for a +T... on an 89 b230f+t with greentops and lh2.4 244?

not runnign super high boost levels, but something to flow well and create boost at lower rpms. (if that makes any kind of sense?)

mitsu? garett? water cooled? oil cooled.... i know nothing 'bout turbos except that my buddies garette t2 on the sunterd had to be rebuild and had a sticky wastegate.

my idea is to slowly collect crap from 700's/900's until i have time/patience to do this

i'll will also think of you when i'm looking for a turbo, i wouldnt wanna pull a junkyard one.. rebuilt me thinks would be good

- Amar

[thelostartof]

So that one would be basically "new" condition clocked to RWD? Do you have DP's available yet?



2 series i can make and i plan on making a few 7/9 series in a weekend or two once i get some flanges in stock

[TrunKS850R]

nice write up, you can do 18T's too right? what if i swapped you one of my 15gs for a 18T

[impulse922]

nice write up, you can do 18T's too right? what if i swapped you one of my 15gs for a 18T

bad trade, 18Ts are $$$$

[thelostartof]

i can do any fwd turbo you give me

and what do you mean swap? you give me a 15g for me giving you an 18t?

[Super1800GTR]

Pics not working :(

[burgandybrick]

Here is my angled outlet 15g mounted to a 90+ using a 13c actuator:
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/1228/turboandmanihq7.jpg

No bracket required, is working great:neener:

[thelostartof]

Pics not working :(

fixed on new host


and the 13c WG is eh .... weak ... with the 3.5" DP @ 3500rpm the 15g actuator could not even hold 10psi as over that 3500 mark it would climb .... and more and more by 4500 i was @ 21+ psi

setup a nice heavy duty T3 actuator

[kelley_aj]

Mike 2 questions. How many times do you reuse the nuts that hold the turbo to the mani before replacing them? 2nd where did you get those sweet snap ring pliers:love: ? Mine are struggle lol!

[thelostartof]

turbo to manifold i would not trust more than 2 times .. tho yes i do use a set as downpipe nuts as they have a small flange which i need/like. otherwise they are about $12 each NEW from the dealer ... but to me worth it to never have to worry about those again

snap ring pliers were $10 for two 13" pliers from harbor freight

and wow thread is pinned ... time for me to get some more pics of setting one up just so there is more info as i will post some pics of the setup of mine as i clock the turbos i use on my car w/ the outlet facing straight up so it gives a bit more space for the plug wires (you can remove them w/o f'in with the hose ... plus i think from now on i will clock most like that just hope you do not have solid pipes)

[thelostartof]

and do you happen to have pics of the welds you put on your manifold/turbine housing to fit that angled outlet on there?

[fsl]

How much hp improvement from a 13c?

[Lord Tentacle]

[QUOTE=thelostartof;1083005] otherwise they are about $12 each NEW from the dealer ... but to me worth it to never have to worry about those again
QUOTE]

local volvo joint is charging me $6 each
however
FCP has them for $4.25 each
part number 977209
and the ones FCP has are from volvo (they just get a discount for buying in wholesale quantities)

[thelostartof]

sweet prices must of went down then as last 4 i bought 3 years ago in socal were expensive

[thelostartof]

How much hp improvement from a 13c?



night and day .... do a search and you will find a lot of peoples comments on thier upgrade from a 13c to 15g

[SteveMD]

Mike,

I have a conical 15G housing with a WG hole crack and a brand new flat housing. I hope the new one isn't made China. It came on another 15G I bought. Anyway, it's obvious even to me the flat flange housing flows more and I should hit you up for a matching down pipe. Going to be a few weeks before you get the flanges? (read that in another thread here). Going to finish my taxes tonight so I have the $$.

[thelostartof]

should be soon for me to get the flanges in

otehrwise just run the conical setup for now and you can just swap to the flat later

[maxman142001]

how much of a difference will it make to port the turbine housing on the 15g's? I know that porting the 90+ is almost a must....15g has a nice design on the housing already. any need to improve it??

[thelostartof]

very much so you want to even HAVe to port it .. makes a world of difference

[PeteMagnum]

Anyone debating, Listen to this man He knows what he's talking about. :volvo: And I'm in as soon as it gets a little warmer outside. I'm pretty much thinking about holding off on the Garrett GT until beg to mid summer. I've been wanting to try out the 15g on my setup so I'm going to run it for a little while until I switch to the Garrett. btw, Nice post. Very generous of you.

[benflynn]

bump for my own good

[phillazenby740t]

send me a holset i'll see if i can remove it

Theres one on the way mike!

[thelostartof]

another WG bracket

http://thelostartof.net/15gbracket_7904.JPG

http://thelostartof.net/15gbracket_7903.JPG

http://thelostartof.net/15gbracket_7902.JPG

http://thelostartof.net/15gbracket_7901.JPG

http://thelostartof.net/15gbracket_7900.JPG

[thelostartof]

.

[i dont know]

So you just swap out the compressor housing?

[thelostartof]

swap?? no you do not have to swap anything .. you just rotate the housings

[i dont know]

OK, This thread just tells you how to reclock a 15g for rwd.

[tryingbe]

Same method applys to 16t/18t/19t.

[shellshock]

GREAT thread!! Thanks Mike!

[J940T]

i need bigger injectors for my 940 T to much air not enough fuel... :(

[740tankDriver]

how much boost are you running with it?

[Sinbad the Sailor]

I just took off the clamp on my 16t and the exhaust housing will not come off. Am I missing something? Or do I just need a BFH?

http://www.stage-infinity.com/2007/09/28/mitsubishi-td04-13t-turbo-rebuild/2/

This link may be helpful to any attempting this.

[Tenacious Todd]

Hope this the right place too ask you this question. But do you have any experience with the 16G from an EVO. And will it work on the 90+ mani? And what is a FAIR price to pay for one with 25K on it?

[RobSmith]

What makes a 15G conical?
Is it just the conical seat where the exhaust downpipe is connected or is it something else?

Rob

[JohnMc]

It's the style of turbine housing to downpipe interface. Conical is what the old 12b/13C stock turbos used, where a flared pipe with a flange around it is snugged on over the conical seating surface. The flat and angled flanges have flat mating surfaces, which a flange welded onto the downpipe seals to (with a gasket). Flat flange is better for RWD usage. Angled flanges my be difficult to mount onto a 90+ manifold, and the flange starts off pointing slightly in the wrong direction.

[Sinbad the Sailor]

The flat flange turbos do not need a gasket from what I have heard. There is a lip on the exhaust housing and a coinciding grove on the flange so that you don't need a gasket.

[DISPHIT]

must keep thread alive

[sbabbs]

It turns out the metal engine puller thingy on a diesel volvo D24 motor works perfect as a bracket for the reclocking. I meant it's perfect. I didn't even have to set the preload, just welded it together.

Simon

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t334/simonbabbs/15greclockdiesel1.jpg



http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t334/simonbabbs/15greclockdiesel2.jpg


http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t334/simonbabbs/15greclockdiesel3.jpg

Here it is on my 16T on my newer b23ft motor.

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t334/simonbabbs/15greclockdiesel4.jpg

[Hodginsa]

Mike! where did you get your snap ring pliers! I just broke mine reassembling my 15G, the pliers were no match for the 15G snap ring!

[tryingbe]

Harbor Freight special.

[Hodginsa]

Hmm, just checked there, I can't find any that look that heavy duty :grrr:

Edit: do these look good? http://www.bosstoolsupply.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3364

[94teggy]

I think these were the ones I bought for mine. They may have been the 9 inch one though...which they are not listing on the website. I'll try and find mine and measure them tomorrow.

Link (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200312721_200312721)

[thelostartof]

I got my Snap Ring Pliers from harbor freight 3-4 years ago for $9 for the pair

[spdracr]

Hope this the right place too ask you this question. But do you have any experience with the 16G from an EVO. And will it work on the 90+ mani? And what is a FAIR price to pay for one with 25K on it?

it will work but u have to make ur turbo remote where u have to make a custom connection between the manifold and the turbo, i bought my 16G with 35k miles on it for $350 and it came with the manifold too



i just bought a 15G since my 13c has blown seals and im gonna attempt this tomorrow night and hopefully i shouldnt have any trouble, wish me luck

[spdracr]

when i remove the guide pins and i clock the compressor side, wouldnt the turbo have a chance of unclocking itself since im not using the pin anymore ??

[tryingbe]

Very unlikely. The snap ring is holding the compressor in place.

[Hodginsa]

/\ especially once you get your intercooler pipes on, theres no reason for it to move anyways, I was also curious about this, so I tried to rotate it with some arm strength, no dice. Pretty solid.

[sbabbs]

I can move mine on the car if I really yank on it, so I'm trying not to yank on it. Otherwise it's pretty tight on there. I used a dremel with a little cut off wheel to get those pins out if you can't pull them out. I broke one of my two harbor freight big snap ringers the other day, but I was trying to bend the tip in the vise to get it right. My harbor freight pliers go opposite of the way they need to go, they do the job though. They came in a two pack also one curved tip the other straight.

[spdracr]

so has anyone used their 13c hotside on the 15g ?? i thought i would just swap hotsides and im done but i ended up using the wheels from the 13c hotside as well since apparently the diameter on the inside on the hotsides are not identical like i thought they would be from readin on here people saying just swap the hotside and it should work

i got it clocked today and tomorrow im taking it to my old job to have them fabricate brackets for the wastegate, im not gonna need to weld anything for the space between the the wastegate and the compressor side since i screwed the wastegate all the way into the bracket that bolts to the hotside and it killed the space that needs to be covered

i will post pics when i get this done tomorrow

[yamahapro]

alright I clocked my g15 and this guy left alot out. first u pull the vband off, then u get the right set of snap ring pliers (which harbor freight did not have). then u pull the snap ring off. you carefully pull or tap both housings off. now it is best to have another turbo with u to clock it right. makes it much easier. so now u have the housings off and u will see a dowel on each housing. simply pull them out. then you put the exhaust housing on the way u want it and you cram it on. the blade wont spin right so youll have to tap it a little to free it better. to correctly get the exhaust housing straight so the blades dont hit put the vband on and tighten it snug, then tap all around the intake side to get the other side to seat properly. keep tightening and tapping until the vbands tight and the blades spin freely. then for the intake side. it doesnt stay very well with out the clip so u will have to get it lined up and using HUGE pliers put the clip on which is probably the hardest part. ones u get the clip on and u aligned it right your done with that part. now for the wastgate, i did it very similar to the first pic of it on this thread but i didnt need to weld it. you just get a little piece of steel like what he used and drill a hole on one side to bolt onto the turbo and the get the wastegate where u want it and mark where to drill the hole. use the original bolt and a nut to hold the bracket to the wastegate. last thing to do is drill a hole where he welded the washer and tap it so u can put a bolt in and wala its perfect.

[Cojones]

So... Will every 15G fit a redblock, or do i need to search for specific partnumbers? Read the thread and tried searching... but, you know, search works like crap.

[yamahapro]

any 15g

[BoostedSwede]

Here is my angled outlet 15g mounted to a 90+ using a 13c actuator:
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/1228/turboandmanihq7.jpg

No bracket required, is working great:neener:

So...13c actuator on a 15g....is that a definite no go? I'm hoping to run 12ish psi on my 15g. Not having to make a bracket would be nice, although it doesn't seem like making one would be a big deal. Just curious!

[yamahapro]

to get 12 psi you need to run a mbc because the waste gate actuator on the 15g doesnt work well up to that psi

[black 940]

You will have to make a bracket either way, reclocking makes for a no go on any of them for direct mount.

[supraboy]

i dont know.

[yamahapro]

who boosts more than 10 pounds with it?

[black 940]

Not I.

[thelostartof]

Says who? I have run 15psi on just the WG w/o an MBC, it all depends on your design of the bracket and how much preload you put on it, from there you can set the boost.

If you built the bracket so that the threaded rod is as long as possible you have more room for adjustment off boost

[daveyseed]

I just got finished doing this conversion, great write up. I had a little alignment peg on the cold side housing that i had to cut off to get the snap ring back in. didn't know if this was just mine or what. sorry, i shuld have read a bit more

[yamahapro]

you could have pulled that pin out

[daveyseed]

something i frogot to ask, will the cbv for that 15g work for k jet? if not would the one off of the 13c? are they the same? is one better for k jet?

[tryingbe]

CBV doesn't care what electronics you use to control the engine, so long you give the CBV a vacuum source it can use and it will function correctly.

[daveyseed]

right, but does the computer care?

[thelostartof]

no

[swedishK]

stick with the 15g actuator, or a t3 actuator?

[thelostartof]

t3 is better in my book

[d34thd34l3r]

I was told that the 13c actuator has a stronger spring than the 15g is this correct?

[Sir Psycho]

Just picked up my 15G to replace the 13c on my 940. At what PSI will I hit the fuel cut and need bigger injectors? I'd like power, but also to try and keep some good MPG's and want to make it as efficient as possible.

[Sir Psycho]

Now I'm having trouble separating the hot side and cold side from each other. I got the clamp off but can't separate them.

[hokman]

Garrett GT2871R. Which manifold will work with this?

[smith_t240]

Looking to buy a snap ring pliers. Anyone know what diameter the snap ring is and what diameter holes are in it? Definitely going with 90deg tips.

[Dakar09]

thelostartof....are you still doing these reclocks? I'm thinking of looking for a 15g but would prefer to have a "pro" reclock it for my '83 turbo. I have a 90+ on the way already and will be having the head rebuilt soon, so it's not really a rush job right now.

Thanks.

[black 940]

Will a 15 g work on a pre '90 manifold? The reason I ask is that I am buying an '87 with a 15 g not installed.

[black 940]

Will a 15 g work on a pre '90 manifold? The reason I ask is that I am buying an '87 with a 15 g not installed.

[swedishiron.com]

black 940 - quick answer: no (not without serious mods to the mani or the turbine housing)

[fst64_v8pwr]

Not sure wish yall luck!

[Mylesofsmyles]

So a 15g can only be reclocked to a 91+ mani?

I bought a 15g for my 87, but sounds like that won't work...just trade out the mani or will that not work?

Also dumb question as I'm new to turbos...is the mani you refer to just the hot side of the turbo or are you describing the complete exhaust manifold off the head?

[ThickasaBrick]

Now I'm having trouble separating the hot side and cold side from each other. I got the clamp off but can't separate them.

I know that S.P. has already solved this problem but I'm posting this for anyone else who encounters this problem as it is common.

I knew I was gonna be porting my 15G so what I did was go ahead and remove the clamp and snap ring before I began porting. Just for grins I checked and of course they wouldn't budge so I went ahead and did quite a bit of porting. Can you see where this is going yet? Yes, after being exposed to my cheap vibrating too much because it's cheap grinder, my 15G practically fell apart! No fighting, and no hammering with the rubber mallet required! [Edit: The dowels are proving to be a bitch though.]
Regards, Eric

[ThickasaBrick]

New revelation: I think it is better to just drill new holes for the dowels rather than removing them.
Regards, Eric

[Koston740]

Random question, what is a fair price for a ported 90+mani???

[swedishiron.com]

Worthy of note is that the snap ring is beveled on one edge and it will only go back on the CHRA and compressor housing ONE WAY (beveled side out and flat side down).

I just re-read this whole thread and to answer at least one question - you cannot use a 13c exhaust housing with a 15g CHRA - the 15g exhaust wheel is just slightly larger in diameter and won't fit inside the 13c exhaust housing without damaging the blades.

[leslie_s]

So a 15g can only be reclocked to a 91+ mani?

I bought a 15g for my 87, but sounds like that won't work...just trade out the mani or will that not work?

Also dumb question as I'm new to turbos...is the mani you refer to just the hot side of the turbo or are you describing the complete exhaust manifold off the head?

theyre talking about the exhaust manifold...totally seperate from the turbo. I have a 90+ mani on my 82, it fits fine, just a better design..flows better even.

[SteveMD]

Worthy of note is that the snap ring is beveled on one edge and it will only go back on the CHRA and compressor housing ONE WAY (beveled side out and flat side down).



That's interesting. I was taught that the flat side (of snap rings in general) should face out since that puts more of the snap ring surface into the groove for load-bearing purposes. Was I taught wrong?

[smokeyfan1000]

That's interesting. I was taught that the flat side (of snap rings in general) should face out since that puts more of the snap ring surface into the groove for load-bearing purposes. Was I taught wrong?

I was too. By most piston companies, and by Harley Davidson Racing Dept In piston wrist pin applictions snap ring ALWAYS goes in with bevelled edge DOWN & flat side up/out.
I too find it strange in turbo app.

[swedishiron.com]

I compared the turbo I was installing with 2 other 15gs and one 13c and all of them have the bevel side out.
:e-shrug:

[SteveMD]

I compared the turbo I was installing with 2 other 15gs and one 13c and all of them have the bevel side out.
:e-shrug:

Hmm, I would imagine that BF'ing snap ring would go in easier beveled side out (easier for it to slide into the groove). Maybe that's why Saito put 'em in that way on the assembly line.

Edit: after taking a look at my own recently disassembled 15g, I see that the snap ring has a significant slope/bevel on it and is likely an exception to the general snap ring install rule.

[Distort]

I had the same problem with the snap ring, thank god my buddy finally noticed it was beveled. I just finished my swap last night, I blew the turbo in Houston so I pieced together a 15g at the junkyard and got out for 37 bucks. All I turned was the exhaust housing, and everything bolted up with minor modifications, just no way to hook up the wastegate. So because I needed to get home, I drove almost 1000 miles with an open wastegate, which suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuucked. Bolted up my 15g actuator and now it's hitting 10 psi but I can't get anymore even if I fiddle with the wastegate arm or my boost controller. Maybe my 15g actuator is bad?

[SteveMD]

Hey guys any tips on clocking the mofo? Right now I have the oil inlet pointing straight up, level if the car is level, and the compressor housing clocked so the 'L' hose slips on and the IC piping seems correctly lined up even though no IC installed yet.

I am using a steel braided flex line for oil supply and a shortened oil return pipe with a hose down to the barbed fitting in the NA block so clocking of the CHRA doesn't need to be too precise.

I did see thelostartof's pics at start of this article and tried to go by them.

[Sir Psycho]

Just break into it and see if you have any questions! It's really not that difficult, and the guide in the beginning should help you figure it out enough!

[CerebralAilment]

What modifications are required to put a 15g on a pre-90 manifold? I want put one on my 89 740Turbo.

[Distort]

Just get a 90+ for around $40 and enjoy the gains received from a more free flowing manifold and larger Turbo.

[CerebralAilment]

Where do you find em for $40.00??

[propav8r]

Junkyard or here. They pop up pretty often around that price, but most, if not all, are cracked in the collector area and will need to be welded and repaired.

[Distort]

Where do you find em for $40.00??


Piok and pull, FS section

[CerebralAilment]

Just get a 90+ for around $40 and enjoy the gains received from a more free flowing manifold and larger Turbo.

I saw a 740 today that had the newer style headlights. I looked at the door jam quick & it said '89 and on the window it said '89 also.

But doesn't that mean its actually a 90? If so the turbo & mani where right there and easy to snag. I should go back tomorrow & try and see if I can pull it.

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/7466/20120322160302967.jpg

[black 940]

its a 90

[CerebralAilment]

its a 90

So if its a 90 - that's considered the newer style manifold right? or is that 91+?

[black 940]

Should be newer. It is easy to tell, you will see studs coming out of it with nuts holding on the turbo instead of bolts coming from the inside.

[PEGASUS 6]

I think the only thing this thread didnt cover is the exhaust. I used this guide to clock my 16T, the snap ring pliers (9") were a must, and once I had those, finishing the setup was stoopid fast.

However, I am still stuck as far as a downpipe solution. To complete the setup to RWD how did you adapt the 3" hotside to your exhaust?

[foggyjames]

Which turbine housing do you have - conical, flat, or angled? Basically, you need to cut/weld the FWD flange onto your stock downpipe.

cheers

James

[PEGASUS 6]

here is a good addition to the thread for a DP solution -

http://www.genuinesaab.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=621&osCsid=030dbffed614830bf2757f725754a983

flanged for a TD04 and goes to 3"

[CerebralAilment]

$$65$$?!?!?! Wtf

[PEGASUS 6]

u gotta link to something cheaper?

[CerebralAilment]

1st attempt :)

Edit: peg try this?

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/transitions-forms-45/megaphones-reverse-cone-118/reverse-cone-mild-steel-2-00-to-3-00-2-0-length-18g-1532.html

[CerebralAilment]

ok thanks for the writeup. There is a 15G with 20k miles for sale at the moment, maybe i'll pick it up... :-D

Isnt it possible/easyer to use the actuator of a 13C?

Ugly.. having a hell of a time rigging the lines up.

[ncbrock]

any copper washers or anything need to be replaced when swapping to the 15g? Im ordering a new manifold-to-turbo gasket and a new oil drain gasket but cant find any copper washers from the banjo bolts on IPD?

[donalson]

yes the copper crush washers need replaced when you swap, there is no manifold to turbo gasket...,

[ncbrock]

hmmm ipd says otherwise, and I have one sitting in my garage:)
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6275/111659-turbo-to-manifold-gasket

[harribert]

Check the fitment guide. All FWD.

[ncbrock]

What the hell kind of metal is the exhaust housing made of? I've burned through all my drill bits trying to drill out the stud holes and haven't made it 1/4th of the way with my drill press

[donalson]

high nickle cast I want to say...

I've done it twice now... both times with a hand drill with keyless chuck and VERY cheap wood drill bits (aka what I've had on hand)... I started with the bit that was just barely to big and some PB blaster... kept moving up one size at a time and it was no prob... had to spin the bits faster then I should and insert slowly so it didn't catch and jerk the drill out of my hand when the bit initially bites..

[ncbrock]

Guess I got a bad bit, luckily I bought two because the second one went through pretty easy. Kind of mad that they were $10 each:roll:

[CerebralAilment]

Its not an easy peice to drill - I think I used three sizes with an air drill. Took like 20 minutes to get it big enough. Holyhell though you'll notice a difference over a 13. Put some brown tops in too ^__^

[harribert]

definitely needs a drill press. Lubing the bits with WD40, PB blaster, 4-in-1 or actually drill bit oil helps keep things from shattering.

[tryingbe]

I drill thru them easily with cobalt bits.

[ncbrock]

For sure worth the troubles though. Worlds better than my 13c, hits pretty hard at ~12 psi. I just have to solve a boost issue. If Im off boost and step on it it will hit 14 psi then creep back down to 10 and hold, but if Im on boost shifting through gears it will still hold 10 psi. Wastegate adjustment?

[deviousz28]

Sorry posted in wrong spot. Can someone help me out with my 15G http://turbobricks.org/forums/showthread.php?t=263690

[swedishiron.com]

I drill thru them easily with cobalt bits.

+ 11ty billion