Jono780
12-14-2006, 10:09 PM
First of all, the CFI's and browntops have a different fit, browntops fitting the same as stock injectors. All of the steps for browntops are the same except for oring/spacer setup on the injector.
Injector installation.
It is recommended that you buy new orings for your injectors when you install them. Over time they tend to expand and lose there ability to seal properly. New orings are also easier to install since they have not expanded due to use.
Now for oring/spacer setup. For CFI's, you will want to put two orings on the bottow of the injector without any spacers. At the top you will want to put one spacer and then one oring. Others as well as many others find this to be the setup that gives a great seal.
Now, before you get excited and start trying to ram the injectors into the manifold, you wont be able to push them in by hand. What I ended up doing (worked great) was taking some synthetic lube to the two orings that are on the bottom of the injector. Be sure to only lube the outsides of the rings and only after you put them on the injectors otherwise they will slide around on the injector.
Now to get them in, put all of the injectors on the fuel bar first, then line them up with the intake manifold ports and bold the fuel line down. This will force the injectors/orings into the manifold and provide an excellent seal.
AMM hack and base mixture adjustment.
Now for the fun part for all of the electronics junkies.
First of all, you will need to hack your AMM harness. The line running from your fenderwall to your AMM is what you will need to cut into. Be sure NOT to cut any other wires when cutting into the harness. Fairly easy, but it is good to have a head up. Once you have cut a slit, pull up the red/blue wire. Now you will want to cut it, skin it, and put your resistor(s) in here.
Now for those of you who are running 37lb CFI's or Browntops, you will want to put in 330ohms of resistance. For those of you who are running higher flowing CFI's/other you will need to calculate the ohms you will need depends on the flow of the injectors. Here's a link that may help somewhat. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=57416&highlight=lh2.2+ohms+injectors
Now you should be able to find the resistor(s) at any radioshack. I personally use 1 resistor rated at 330 (less stacking is always better.
Now to set the base idle you will want to ground the red/black wire that runs to the pigtale by your passanger side fenderwall. This will close your icv and allow you to adjust your idle via the screw on the throttle body. You will want to set your idle to approx. 850rpm. There seems to be personal preference all over this board so ill leave this up to you. Stock turbo cars are usually set to 900rpm according to the manual. Once you have the rpms where you want them, take the ground off of the pigtale and the idle should surge and settle to the desired rpm.
Next you will be setting your base mixture. While setting the idle, im sure you noticed that your engine is running fairly rough in comparison to the stock injectors. At the moment you should be running rich. I will provide 3 methods for setting the mixture and promise at least one way should work for you. I myself had to come up with a different way to find the base mixture apart from the popular 'test light' that a majority of lh2.2 users on this board have adopted. This is because I could never get the test light to work in the first place and I know several others are in the same boat as me. In terms of accuracy, I would say they are all fairly similar with some possible exceptions. The cheapest way to go without have to own a Volvo test tool or a volt/mutlimeter (either or will work) would be the homemade test light.
Before you begin with whatever method you choose, you will need to remove the tamper proof aluminum plug on the AMM. To remove it, you can drill two small holes into it about 3/16 depth. Now with the tool of your choice, use the two small holes as a anchor point to pull it out. This is probably the hardest part of the install funny enough. Once you pull/dig it out you can move on to the next step.
For those of you who would like to try the test light, here is a link of another TBmember's lh2.2 setup that also has some very valuable information:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=20676&highlight=lh2.2+browntops
The second method is more expensive and require a Volvo tester. Part number is #9995280 and from what I hear, it is around $35.
Third method, which is what I had to kinda figure out is the volt/multimeter method. Personally, I believe this is probably the most accurate way of doing it (though a purely theoretical assumption):
(before we begin, this may seem complex in writing but it is actually fairly easy and quick to carry out.)
First off for those of you who will be using the third method, you will want to hook yourself up to the O2 sensor with the multimeter. The point of this is to get your AMM into the approximate mixture range so you are able to fine tune it after this. The red line (positive) from your voltmeter you will want to hook into the spade connection of the O2 sensor that connects to the wiring harness. It is usually covered by a black rubber 'thingy' (take a look at the photo). The black (negative) wire from the meter you will want to ground. Now with the car running and warmed up, watch the readings on the voltmeter (set it to measure up to 2V). Now as long as your O2 sensor is in good condition, you should see the voltage fluctuating between .45 and .6V for an ideal mixture. Since you are running rich, you may find it doesnt go lower than about .4 or so. Your goal is to lean it out so the median (average middle) value is around .5V. To adjust the mixture in order to do so, you will want to use a flat head screwdriver and turn the screw on the AMM. Lefty Leany, Righty Richy. Be sure to make your adjustments slowly and be sure to keep an eye on the fluctuations on the voltmeter.
When you have the mixture averaged out, you will now be able to do the fine tuning.
Hook up the positive (red) voltmeter wire up to the green/white wire on the pigtale. This is the O2 wire that delivers us our reading from the ECU. Now ground the negative (black) wire. Set your voltmeter to measure up to 20V. With the car running, you will either get a reading of 0-.5V or 12-12.5V. This is the ECU telling us whether we are rich or lean. 12V means rich, .5 means lean. Now you will want to turn the screw the opposite way of what you are reading. If rich, lean it out, if lean, richen it up. Now you will also want to perform this slowly, though you may find it could take quite a few turns till it gets where you want it. Now, on your voltmeter an ideal mixture (according to the ECU) will appear as fluctuations between 12 and 0V. In other words it will osolate between 12 and 0 fairly quickly. This is where you want to be. Once you find this point, you are set and can congradulate yourself by turning up the boost :-)
p.s. This is a repost because I think the article may have been lost in the forum crash.
Injector installation.
It is recommended that you buy new orings for your injectors when you install them. Over time they tend to expand and lose there ability to seal properly. New orings are also easier to install since they have not expanded due to use.
Now for oring/spacer setup. For CFI's, you will want to put two orings on the bottow of the injector without any spacers. At the top you will want to put one spacer and then one oring. Others as well as many others find this to be the setup that gives a great seal.
Now, before you get excited and start trying to ram the injectors into the manifold, you wont be able to push them in by hand. What I ended up doing (worked great) was taking some synthetic lube to the two orings that are on the bottom of the injector. Be sure to only lube the outsides of the rings and only after you put them on the injectors otherwise they will slide around on the injector.
Now to get them in, put all of the injectors on the fuel bar first, then line them up with the intake manifold ports and bold the fuel line down. This will force the injectors/orings into the manifold and provide an excellent seal.
AMM hack and base mixture adjustment.
Now for the fun part for all of the electronics junkies.
First of all, you will need to hack your AMM harness. The line running from your fenderwall to your AMM is what you will need to cut into. Be sure NOT to cut any other wires when cutting into the harness. Fairly easy, but it is good to have a head up. Once you have cut a slit, pull up the red/blue wire. Now you will want to cut it, skin it, and put your resistor(s) in here.
Now for those of you who are running 37lb CFI's or Browntops, you will want to put in 330ohms of resistance. For those of you who are running higher flowing CFI's/other you will need to calculate the ohms you will need depends on the flow of the injectors. Here's a link that may help somewhat. http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=57416&highlight=lh2.2+ohms+injectors
Now you should be able to find the resistor(s) at any radioshack. I personally use 1 resistor rated at 330 (less stacking is always better.
Now to set the base idle you will want to ground the red/black wire that runs to the pigtale by your passanger side fenderwall. This will close your icv and allow you to adjust your idle via the screw on the throttle body. You will want to set your idle to approx. 850rpm. There seems to be personal preference all over this board so ill leave this up to you. Stock turbo cars are usually set to 900rpm according to the manual. Once you have the rpms where you want them, take the ground off of the pigtale and the idle should surge and settle to the desired rpm.
Next you will be setting your base mixture. While setting the idle, im sure you noticed that your engine is running fairly rough in comparison to the stock injectors. At the moment you should be running rich. I will provide 3 methods for setting the mixture and promise at least one way should work for you. I myself had to come up with a different way to find the base mixture apart from the popular 'test light' that a majority of lh2.2 users on this board have adopted. This is because I could never get the test light to work in the first place and I know several others are in the same boat as me. In terms of accuracy, I would say they are all fairly similar with some possible exceptions. The cheapest way to go without have to own a Volvo test tool or a volt/mutlimeter (either or will work) would be the homemade test light.
Before you begin with whatever method you choose, you will need to remove the tamper proof aluminum plug on the AMM. To remove it, you can drill two small holes into it about 3/16 depth. Now with the tool of your choice, use the two small holes as a anchor point to pull it out. This is probably the hardest part of the install funny enough. Once you pull/dig it out you can move on to the next step.
For those of you who would like to try the test light, here is a link of another TBmember's lh2.2 setup that also has some very valuable information:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=20676&highlight=lh2.2+browntops
The second method is more expensive and require a Volvo tester. Part number is #9995280 and from what I hear, it is around $35.
Third method, which is what I had to kinda figure out is the volt/multimeter method. Personally, I believe this is probably the most accurate way of doing it (though a purely theoretical assumption):
(before we begin, this may seem complex in writing but it is actually fairly easy and quick to carry out.)
First off for those of you who will be using the third method, you will want to hook yourself up to the O2 sensor with the multimeter. The point of this is to get your AMM into the approximate mixture range so you are able to fine tune it after this. The red line (positive) from your voltmeter you will want to hook into the spade connection of the O2 sensor that connects to the wiring harness. It is usually covered by a black rubber 'thingy' (take a look at the photo). The black (negative) wire from the meter you will want to ground. Now with the car running and warmed up, watch the readings on the voltmeter (set it to measure up to 2V). Now as long as your O2 sensor is in good condition, you should see the voltage fluctuating between .45 and .6V for an ideal mixture. Since you are running rich, you may find it doesnt go lower than about .4 or so. Your goal is to lean it out so the median (average middle) value is around .5V. To adjust the mixture in order to do so, you will want to use a flat head screwdriver and turn the screw on the AMM. Lefty Leany, Righty Richy. Be sure to make your adjustments slowly and be sure to keep an eye on the fluctuations on the voltmeter.
When you have the mixture averaged out, you will now be able to do the fine tuning.
Hook up the positive (red) voltmeter wire up to the green/white wire on the pigtale. This is the O2 wire that delivers us our reading from the ECU. Now ground the negative (black) wire. Set your voltmeter to measure up to 20V. With the car running, you will either get a reading of 0-.5V or 12-12.5V. This is the ECU telling us whether we are rich or lean. 12V means rich, .5 means lean. Now you will want to turn the screw the opposite way of what you are reading. If rich, lean it out, if lean, richen it up. Now you will also want to perform this slowly, though you may find it could take quite a few turns till it gets where you want it. Now, on your voltmeter an ideal mixture (according to the ECU) will appear as fluctuations between 12 and 0V. In other words it will osolate between 12 and 0 fairly quickly. This is where you want to be. Once you find this point, you are set and can congradulate yourself by turning up the boost :-)
p.s. This is a repost because I think the article may have been lost in the forum crash.