derosa
12-18-2006, 12:59 AM
Items needed:
LH 2.4 computers
5 wire amm from a 91 and later volvo
TPS from a lh2.2 or 2.4 car, swiping the whole throttle is easier.
The plugs, just cut them out when you take the amm and throttle.
New connections from eagleday.com they are called JPT or Junior Power
A crimping tool, pliers will work but not as well.
A roll of 16 gauge wire, preferably in an odd color.
Note: As always when dealing with electrical disconnect the battery.
Step one:
Unplug the tps, and remove the old throttle.
There should now be enough room to move the wires so clip them from the plug. You can use the old plug as a pigtail but I prefered pulling the connections and using new ones.
Looking at the plug so you can see the numbers 3 18 2
3=blue/white
18=brown/black
2=white/yellow
The reason I prefer new connecters is if your pigtail from the JY is from anything other then a 240 it will have different color wires from your harness, using the one you just clipped could be confusing because the pigtail wires are the same colors in a different order.
Edit:
If you use the stock 3.1 plug it will be numbered differently and the wires will be as follows
240driver
1=white/yellow (this wire goes to ECU plug position 2)
2=brown/black (This wire goes to ground)
3=blue/white (depends on whether you hook it up or not, you clearly don't need to)]
the number 3 wire does need to be connected if you are using NA computers but doesn't need to be (possibly shouldn't be) for turbo computers.
Step two:
Remove the old amm and clip the plug off, this one is useless since it won't fit the new amm.
The new plug is numbered 1-6 while the old is numbered 1-4, I'll try to fill in the colors later.
for the new plug 1 is from wire 2, 2 comes from wire 1, 3 comes from wire 4, 5 comes from wire 3. That deals will all the existing wires, 4 has to be added, here is where the odd color wire comes in, try to use something that doesn't match everything else.
If you want to turbo the car it is a good idea to pull the wires out of the harness before they have been installed in the new plug. Simply slice a decent gash in the loom covering near where it enters the firewall and you can see them all. Carefully you can pull them through, remember there are cuplicates so if a wire doesn't pull through see if there is another. The brown/black ground wire will not pull through, it is actually wired to the intake manifold so when you move the amm to the other side for the turbo hoses you should install a new wire.
Step three:
the ECU and EZk wiring. First unwrap the harness from its miles of extra sticky electrical tape.
Here is where things can get confusing.
Pull out ECU 10 and plug into ECU 3, this should be a blue/white wire.
Pull out ECU 2 which is yellow/white, Pull out EZK 7 which is yellow, clip off the old connecters and put the two together on one connector, plug them together back into EZK 7
Pull out ECU 8 and plug into ECU 2, this should be yellow and simply connects the 2 computers (This is the wire from EZK 7)
Plug into ECU 8 your new wire from the amm.
That is all the wiring that needs to be done, I don't know for certain but I believe the ECU has to be grounded so screw that back into place, if going with NA computers the EZK are numerically the exact same so I would assume you don't have to change it, I switched to turbo computers so I honestly don't know.
Notes:
Pulling the connecters from the plugs is a pain in the ass, use a thin metal tab to make it easier.
All total you need 12 JPT connecters, buy extra, they're small and easy to loose, worse 3 of my connections didn't crimp well and I will be buying the proper crimper and brand new plugs for when I add the turbo, the wires to the amm are way to long and need to be shortened considerably when you switch the amm to the other side.
All total to leave it in a NA setup with turbo computers took 3 hours, if I was turboing at the same time getting the brown/black amm wire out of the loom to move it would require removing the intake so prepare with a new gasket.
Buy loom material, why leave it looking like ass? Mine does at the moment, I thought 1/2" loom was big enough for the rest of the harness and it wasn't. 1/4" seems perfect for just the amm wires.
The rubber boots that protect the plugs, remember to put them on the wires before putting the wires in the plug, I put the old amm plug cover on, it doesn't fit so that plug is unprotected for now.
Results:
Ahh the scary moment.
Once I discovered the TPS was no good and replaced it you would think everything should be perfect but it isn't.
First start-The engine surged to 2500rpm and dropped to almost stalling with all lights flickering on. Car didn't want to stay running but with some coaxing it made a victory limp around the block, note: quite a bit of cranking was required to make it work. At this point check the OBD for a code, if there is none your wiring is probably sound.
Second start-the drive to work, made it 8 blocks out with the car lugging badly at every acceleration, didn't want to run at all, turn around to get my bicycle and 2 blocks from home the idle smooths out and it runs fine continues to do so for the rest of the trip to work with some hesitation at accelerations that may be due to flooding from using a turbo ecu without a turbo.
Third start- the trip home, Again surging idle at start and really bad bogging on acceleration attempts (won't dignify it by calling it an acceleration success). This time it goes on for 10 blocks, not 14, again idle smooths out and runs fine for the 12 miles home.
Fourth start- surging idle and bogging lasting 4 blocks. Drove fine afterwards.
At this point the car still surges to 2000rpm on initial start up and holds it for roughly 30 seconds, maybe it has something to do with cold start?
Once it is done with the high idle it now idles smoother then 3.1 did, driving is fine but power seems diminished and if I press the gas too hard on acceleration is hesitates then surges quickly, again possibly due to turbo comps in a still NA computer, don't have any NA comps to check against, also hindered by a badly leaking exhaust.
All in all the results came out well, the car drives ok and idles smoother, just expect a rough learning curve for the computer's first few drives and you'll be fine.
LH 2.4 computers
5 wire amm from a 91 and later volvo
TPS from a lh2.2 or 2.4 car, swiping the whole throttle is easier.
The plugs, just cut them out when you take the amm and throttle.
New connections from eagleday.com they are called JPT or Junior Power
A crimping tool, pliers will work but not as well.
A roll of 16 gauge wire, preferably in an odd color.
Note: As always when dealing with electrical disconnect the battery.
Step one:
Unplug the tps, and remove the old throttle.
There should now be enough room to move the wires so clip them from the plug. You can use the old plug as a pigtail but I prefered pulling the connections and using new ones.
Looking at the plug so you can see the numbers 3 18 2
3=blue/white
18=brown/black
2=white/yellow
The reason I prefer new connecters is if your pigtail from the JY is from anything other then a 240 it will have different color wires from your harness, using the one you just clipped could be confusing because the pigtail wires are the same colors in a different order.
Edit:
If you use the stock 3.1 plug it will be numbered differently and the wires will be as follows
240driver
1=white/yellow (this wire goes to ECU plug position 2)
2=brown/black (This wire goes to ground)
3=blue/white (depends on whether you hook it up or not, you clearly don't need to)]
the number 3 wire does need to be connected if you are using NA computers but doesn't need to be (possibly shouldn't be) for turbo computers.
Step two:
Remove the old amm and clip the plug off, this one is useless since it won't fit the new amm.
The new plug is numbered 1-6 while the old is numbered 1-4, I'll try to fill in the colors later.
for the new plug 1 is from wire 2, 2 comes from wire 1, 3 comes from wire 4, 5 comes from wire 3. That deals will all the existing wires, 4 has to be added, here is where the odd color wire comes in, try to use something that doesn't match everything else.
If you want to turbo the car it is a good idea to pull the wires out of the harness before they have been installed in the new plug. Simply slice a decent gash in the loom covering near where it enters the firewall and you can see them all. Carefully you can pull them through, remember there are cuplicates so if a wire doesn't pull through see if there is another. The brown/black ground wire will not pull through, it is actually wired to the intake manifold so when you move the amm to the other side for the turbo hoses you should install a new wire.
Step three:
the ECU and EZk wiring. First unwrap the harness from its miles of extra sticky electrical tape.
Here is where things can get confusing.
Pull out ECU 10 and plug into ECU 3, this should be a blue/white wire.
Pull out ECU 2 which is yellow/white, Pull out EZK 7 which is yellow, clip off the old connecters and put the two together on one connector, plug them together back into EZK 7
Pull out ECU 8 and plug into ECU 2, this should be yellow and simply connects the 2 computers (This is the wire from EZK 7)
Plug into ECU 8 your new wire from the amm.
That is all the wiring that needs to be done, I don't know for certain but I believe the ECU has to be grounded so screw that back into place, if going with NA computers the EZK are numerically the exact same so I would assume you don't have to change it, I switched to turbo computers so I honestly don't know.
Notes:
Pulling the connecters from the plugs is a pain in the ass, use a thin metal tab to make it easier.
All total you need 12 JPT connecters, buy extra, they're small and easy to loose, worse 3 of my connections didn't crimp well and I will be buying the proper crimper and brand new plugs for when I add the turbo, the wires to the amm are way to long and need to be shortened considerably when you switch the amm to the other side.
All total to leave it in a NA setup with turbo computers took 3 hours, if I was turboing at the same time getting the brown/black amm wire out of the loom to move it would require removing the intake so prepare with a new gasket.
Buy loom material, why leave it looking like ass? Mine does at the moment, I thought 1/2" loom was big enough for the rest of the harness and it wasn't. 1/4" seems perfect for just the amm wires.
The rubber boots that protect the plugs, remember to put them on the wires before putting the wires in the plug, I put the old amm plug cover on, it doesn't fit so that plug is unprotected for now.
Results:
Ahh the scary moment.
Once I discovered the TPS was no good and replaced it you would think everything should be perfect but it isn't.
First start-The engine surged to 2500rpm and dropped to almost stalling with all lights flickering on. Car didn't want to stay running but with some coaxing it made a victory limp around the block, note: quite a bit of cranking was required to make it work. At this point check the OBD for a code, if there is none your wiring is probably sound.
Second start-the drive to work, made it 8 blocks out with the car lugging badly at every acceleration, didn't want to run at all, turn around to get my bicycle and 2 blocks from home the idle smooths out and it runs fine continues to do so for the rest of the trip to work with some hesitation at accelerations that may be due to flooding from using a turbo ecu without a turbo.
Third start- the trip home, Again surging idle at start and really bad bogging on acceleration attempts (won't dignify it by calling it an acceleration success). This time it goes on for 10 blocks, not 14, again idle smooths out and runs fine for the 12 miles home.
Fourth start- surging idle and bogging lasting 4 blocks. Drove fine afterwards.
At this point the car still surges to 2000rpm on initial start up and holds it for roughly 30 seconds, maybe it has something to do with cold start?
Once it is done with the high idle it now idles smoother then 3.1 did, driving is fine but power seems diminished and if I press the gas too hard on acceleration is hesitates then surges quickly, again possibly due to turbo comps in a still NA computer, don't have any NA comps to check against, also hindered by a badly leaking exhaust.
All in all the results came out well, the car drives ok and idles smoother, just expect a rough learning curve for the computer's first few drives and you'll be fine.