MS closed loop idle... cool.

[740ATL]

Cold starts... pshaw... hot starts... pshaw... idle at 1000rpm at 15.5:1 with no surging, pshaw

LH2.4 2-wire idle valve. TIP122 Q5 swap. 12v to valve, ground to MS.

Contrary to what others have observed, the LH2.4 valve is closed at a duty cycle of 35% instead of 25% as others have stated... or maybe mine's just a weirdo.

duty cycles are doubled because I'm using an idle valve frequency of 200... so my 35 becomes 70.

Remember to do a TPS calibration to find out your lower ADC limit... that value will go into the TPS threshold spot.

I'm no expert, it ain't perfect, but it works and will get you running. We'll see how my gas mileage changes. My idle is still a tad bumpy by 50rpm or so... but I think my map sensor needs a bomb.

sit back and enjoy.

Mike

PS... oh yeah... if you're using FIDLE for your spark output, you kinda can't use this... swap over to LED17 and you can.

[The Aspirator]

BLING! Ya beat me to it man, but it sounds awesome! So am I reading that right, that the valve locks open during cranking? Is that why alot of factory cars tend to rev a bit just after startup? Like a newer pontiac will rev to almost 2000 just after the engine catches, then to down to idle a second later.

Cooooooool stuff. Sounds super easy to wire in too.

[740ATL]

Yup. When it fires, it heads to about 2000rpm, then tails back down to the idle speed in about 3-5 seconds.

If it's cold, it'll rev back down to the fast idle... then taper down to the warm idle.

I love it. It's even an improvement over just the warmup mode... Instant driveability even when cold.

Yup... it's as easy as it gets to wire in. Pick up some copper solder wick and go to town on Q5. I'll post a picture of where I mounted the TIP122 tomorrow...

do it do it do it.

[RoadRacer4Life]

you sir are hands down the man....

That is all

Sam

[The Aspirator]

What's copper solder wick? Is that like some sort of de-soldering help? I woulda just heated up all 3 pins and pulled the sucker out :-P . Not the most efficient way to do it for sure.

[qwkswede]

I have one of these transistors installed in my daughtercard, And I have that idle valve plumbed in. I seem to have a phobia of pushing wires through the firewall to connect my MS to the actual devices under the hood though.

Cool stuff. I gotta get one of thse going before next winter for sure.

Yeah, solder wick is very helpful stuff. You just heat the solder and the wick with your soldering iron and it sucks the solder away from the board completely.

[The Aspirator]

Cool, gotta get me some of this:
http://case-mods.linear1.org/i/pict2390.jpg

[740ATL]

That's the stuff John!! You won't believe how well it works... you can watch the copper braid turn silver. Everyone should have some.

[towerymt]

If I had wanted idle control, I'd have kept LH. Although neither of my LH cars have/had functioning idle control valves...

Nice work. I'm falling behind.

[tequila_gundam_no_chaser]

just one step closer to a more DD-able MS'd car...f-ing brilliant.

[Boris740]

Because of my 60lb injectors my idle was little rough even with the high resolution code. Someone suggested that I turn off EGO correction below 1100rpm and it is purring much smother now.

[benflynn]

i think i use none of the extra stuff, i have only had the box out once since instal and that was to test another box,i kid myself into thnking i am going to use thins ms2 w/the extra code is out, but i doubt it, just another box in the cabinet

[JohnMc]

I fiddled with my fidle for about 3 or 4 moths with practically no success at first too. Then I upgraded the firmware and got the more advanced screens (as above). And I finally got a tip (that should have been more obvious) to remap a gauge in MT to show the fidle DC to see what it was doing. And I finally noticed that 25% wasn't closed, like you found out, it's 35% (ish). And finally I was able to make it actually work.

Mines still not perfect, because I don't have a throttle switch. So my settings have to be a little funky because it's pretty much always trying to set the idle, even when the pedal is down. I had to raise the min DC up to not far under the normal warm idle, so it doesn't have far to go to catch the motor when it suddenly goes to idle. If I set the adders and recovery times down to make it catch quicker, it made the idle a bit unstable. And without having the min DC close to idle, it made the car hard to drive, and lurchy at low speeds, because if you put the throttle down slightly, the idle valve would close down suddenly and you'd lose power, and the car would lurch.

Anyhow, great, rock steady idle, stays at 950 rpm when the A/C cycles. It will just be a bit better when I get a throttle switch on it.

[Boris740]

How do you implement the throttle switch?

[JohnMc]

Yank off the LH 2.4 TPS (which has no potentiometer, just an idle switch and (AFAIK) a WOT switch. Tweak any other type of potentiometer type TPS into the space vacated by the 2.4 switch. Study the wiring diagram and hook up the appropriate wires from the TPS to the MS box. Voila. Then you can make the idle control work a little bit better, and you can try TPS-DOT AE, and (what I want to try) throttle dependent boost control to make the pedal response a little more linear.