factory boost level - air/fuel mix - front end stuff

[BrickWall]

OK, I've done all the Stage Zero stuff.

Now I'm in the middle of installing Bilstein struts/shocks. I installed anti-sway bars and upper/lower front braces. I'm replacing some front-end bushings with poly, while I'm doing the struts.

I have a 2.5 inch high-flow catback arriving shortly and will be connecting that later this week. I have an MBC ready, and will be buying a boost gauge tomorrow...

I've looked at the manual and lurked around this site for a while, but I still don't understand a few things:

1. How do I figure out the 'factory boost level'? Do I install the calibrated boost gauge, and floor it, and see what number it hits?

2. I'm not altering the EC unit (yet), so do I need to get an air/fuel gauge? And is it even possible to adjust the mixture manually?

3. Any tricks to installing struts/rotors/pads that I haven't already read about in the manual or on Brickboard?

[L8 APEKS]

You're gonna have fun with that car once you get a few mods on it! Surprised the heck out of a kid in an RSX-S today. He couldn't keep up at all...hehe. :) Fun stuff!

[thelostartof]

You're gonna have fun with that car once you get a few mods on it! Surprised the heck out of a kid in an RSX-S today. He couldn't keep up at all...hehe. :) Fun stuff!



haha last time i was @ the track vs an RSX-S .. he had header, full exhaust, chip/tune, intake, and a stick and he ran a 15.5@ 90(with a 2.1 60 foot) to my 14.1@100 haha

[L8 APEKS]

Gotta love the ricers. They're pretty much a sure bet when you need to feel "fast."

Though admittedly, I got beat by a brand new SI coupe last week. :( You gotta send me that WG so I can get even! :)

[thelostartof]

best tricks for installing those parts is just search here

otherwise for boost reading hook up boost gauge and get up to speed in 3rd gear and slowly roll into the throttle .. by 4500 rpm you should see your peak boost

no need for an air fuel gauge if it is not a wide band unit so save your $.

[lwalker]

When you get the front end aligned, ask for Max positive castor as this will give you negative camber on turn-in and reduce the understeer. Sometimes you can get another degree by grinding the slots in the strut towers a bit. (only downside is it makes the steering a bit heavier). I wouldn't go more than -1degree on camber for a streeter unless you don't care about uneven tire wear and/or spend most of your time in heavy cornering. Sticking to minimal toe-in (1/32-1/16") will also help minimize understeer.

When you do your brake pads, check your caliper slide pins for excessive side play or wear and measure hub and rotor runout to ensure it is spec otherwise you might end up with brake pulsation (rotor warping).

[BrickWall]

OK, I'm heading out to the garage... then to the rice fields.

[BrickWall]

And... I'm halfway thru the job and can't get the strut to come free. The top is loose, but the bottom won't let go of the steering arm (or whatever it's called).
Also, I've unscrewed the nut at the bottom of the strut, but it's still connnected.

Do I have to buy/rent a ball joint tool, or is there a trick or technique that I am missing?

[King of Cleveland]

I just rebuilt an 850 front end so I have that on the brain right now, but as I recall the whole spindle on a 740 will come off the ball joint if you take the nut off the ball joint and smack the threaded stub with a big enough hammer. It separates like a tie rod end, only bigger so it takes more force. I suggest putting the nut back on upside down so you don't mushroom the thing. It takes a good smack depending on how long they've been together. find a big hammer. I think I used an 8 lb maul.

or get an appropriate pickle fork... but where's the fun in that?

if you're replacing everything just unbolt the control arm, the tie rod and the top of the strut then remove the whole damn thing and take it apart on a bench. muuuuch easier.

...unless I'm thinking of some other car...

when i did my 760 I was dumb and replaced bushings and ball joints before I decided I needed to replace the struts too. Do it all at once, it'll be much easier.