http://forums.turbobricks.com/ Turbobricks.com The Performance Volvo Community en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:58:01 GMT vBulletin 60 http://forums.turbobricks.com/images/turbo/misc/rss.jpg http://forums.turbobricks.com/ http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188371&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:53:12 GMT I suspect my CBV is possibly leaking and I'm now wondering what my options are. I know with the Garret/Pierburg I had before I could just mash down the screw on the CBV to adjust it, however on this Mitsu TD-04 (as most of you probably know) there is no screw. With that being said, what can I do to tighten it up?

I suspect I could get a new valve or spring or whatever is inside there, I've tried searching for a solution, but haven't found anything of use...mostly just people asking about adding a BOV (Which I'd like to avoid). Where can I source new parts for the CBV and how can I tighten it up? ]]> lammmy http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188371 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188370&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:05:05 GMT Im just wanting to know if the stock mani on my 82 242 turbo will bolt up with a dodge turbo off a cummins truck? I have one of there turbos off my old truck and that would give me all the boost I could ever use with this car. If not does anyone make a aftermarket turbo mani for my car? Im just wanting to know if the stock mani on my 82 242 turbo will bolt up with a dodge turbo off a cummins truck? I have one of there turbos off my old truck and that would give me all the boost I could ever use with this car.

If not does anyone make a aftermarket turbo mani for my car? ]]> sho_shane http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188370 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188369&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:04:28 GMT Making power at high rev's is bad for the AW71 people have reported;
what are we calling 'high rev's' with ~300WHP?
Assuming good transmission oil, big-ass cooler and accumulator mod. ]]> Harleyvolvo http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188369 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188368&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:57:39 GMT Alright what can I check? I have pressure tested and sprayed for vacuum leaks but that was a couple months ago and I found nothing. I have stock green top injectors, mikes chips, running 13 psi. I notice for about the first 20 min of my drive to school the car seems to bog when I go to 5 psi and... Alright what can I check? I have pressure tested and sprayed for vacuum leaks but that was a couple months ago and I found nothing. I have stock green top injectors, mikes chips, running 13 psi. I notice for about the first 20 min of my drive to school the car seems to bog when I go to 5 psi and clears up somewhat when I give it more throttle. Whats going? Also at idle the car runs weird sometimes and you can smell that it's running lean? It's not fuel it's a weird smell. ]]> Krisverde http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188368 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188364&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:21:03 GMT i searched, and from what i could find, this hasn't been covered. i realize this is pretty easy, but if you're not particularly familiar with wiring and such, it can seem like a more daunting task than it is.

there are probably easier alternators to do this swap with, but i used what i had laying around: vw parts! but this is more focused on the wiring itself than the alternator in question.

Firstly: unhook the wiring from the alternator and the external regulator. then remove the old alternator.

Second: cut open the wiring harness until all the wires going between the alternator and the regulator are exposed. now the pics here are from a '75 240, so your wiring may vary slighty, but probably not by much. if you have a B20, you at least have a tang cast into the block to mount an alternator, if not, you may have to purchase or fab up your own alternator mount. IPD sells them for fairly cheap, and i've heard of other companies selling different versions for things like 100amp SBC alternators.

Third: this is roughly what you will find when you open up the harness:



the black plug with three wires is the regulator portion, remove it from the equation however you see fit. you want to cut out everything but the one red exciter wire, and the two (or maybe one, in some cases) heavier red wires.

Fourth: re-wrap the harness with tape after you get the harness narrowed down. or don't, whatever. either way it should look like this:



the black wire is the old ground wire that went from the alternator to the external regulator. i simply cut it down so that it went to the nearest groundable point on the body, and added another terminal to the other end. simply attach it to the body on one end, and mount the other end to the body of the alternator.

Fin: hook the exciter wire to the D+ terminal on the alternator. hook the batt/starter wire to the B+ terminal. reinstall the alternator. that's it. wasn't that easy?



now, if you want to follow in my footsteps with the choice of alternator, you'll need to have a welder and a grinder handy, as well as various drills. PM me for all the details, it was super easy. ]]> article composition PRVersion http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188364 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188360&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:50:19 GMT 1990 245 B230 LH2.4 autotragic. Last night, I buttoned up a few things on the wagon. And changed the oil, did some cleaning under the hood, checked for vac leaks and such.... At lunch today, I got a brand spanking new catalytic converter put on. As soon as I left that shop, I went straight to... 1990 245 B230 LH2.4 autotragic.

Last night, I buttoned up a few things on the wagon. And changed the oil, did some cleaning under the hood, checked for vac leaks and such....
At lunch today, I got a brand spanking new catalytic converter put on. As soon as I left that shop, I went straight to the inspection station, just enough to get the new cat nice and hot. Everything was going well until the machine kicked out a big FAIL because NOX is too high. Last time my friend put it on the machine, it was also high, but he said a new cat would make it pass with no problem. I honestly think the numbers are higher now than they were with a hollow cat shell.

So now what? I hear carbon, I hear timing. What do I do now? I am absolutely fed up with this.

RESULTS:
NOx (ppm)

Standard @ high speed: 1163
As tested: 3433

Standard @ low speed: 1273
As tested: 3672 ]]> bullitt210 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188360 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188359&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:47:59 GMT Like Cameron's thread, just for all cars. Volvo, BMW, VW, Lada, whatever. Like the "Dope Shizz" thread on Vortex.




















]]> showroom Tom Wiley http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188359 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188352&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:43:38 GMT 1992 ,940 speedo not working, whats the best start point to start looking for fault 1992 ,940 speedo not working, whats the best start point to start looking for fault ]]> samsonv8 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188352 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188351&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:33:28 GMT I was reflecting on the later B230FT (92 +TD04-13C) setup and wondered about a possible modification for autocross and such. Normally the turbo has a coolant line from the pressure tank line and another that connects elsewhere. From what I can see coolant does not actually flow through the... I was reflecting on the later B230FT (92 +TD04-13C) setup and wondered about a possible modification for autocross and such.

Normally the turbo has a coolant line from the pressure tank line and another that connects elsewhere. From what I can see coolant does not actually flow through the turbo, but acts as a thermal safety in the event a driver pulls of the highway and shuts off the engine while everything is hot and spinning. It seems the oil flowing through the turbo lubricates and cools the unit.

Would it make sense to tee off the inbound and outbound coolant lines for the oil cooler in order to effect coolant flow through the turbo while humping the engine in a competetive setting?

My only fear would be that the Mitsubishi engineers designed it to run hot and cooling it too much cause something to bind up slightly.

Has anyone tried this? Does it make sense to attempt this change? ]]> henry_sigourney http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188351 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188350&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:29:36 GMT Ive spent quite a good amount of time on this now, i cant get my sunroof to completely pop up and close, sealed. Im at the point of takin the interior roof of to check the mechanism inside, maybe of rails or something. Wadya think, thanks peace. Ive spent quite a good amount of time on this now, i cant get my sunroof to completely pop up and close, sealed. Im at the point of takin the interior roof of to check the mechanism inside, maybe of rails or something. Wadya think, thanks peace. ]]> yiking http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188350 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188345&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:49:07 GMT i sourced the apc components from several of the wrecking yards in my area, as on most of the sabbs that i had found, the voltures already had a go at cutting important components off of the apc wiring harness. the apc box, and wiring harness, along with a new vacumme pump thing for the cruise... i sourced the apc components from several of the wrecking yards in my area, as on most of the sabbs that i had found, the voltures already had a go at cutting important components off of the apc wiring harness. the apc box, and wiring harness, along with a new vacumme pump thing for the cruise control were aquired for 25 dollars. the rest of the components were quickly found/then stuffed into my pocket-if im gonna pay 2 dollars to get in, im getting 2 dollars worth of free stuff. wires were extended to proper length for the location which i decided to mount it, connectors were soldered on/several times over! then shrink rap for the bare joints. split loom-etc

http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...3.jpg&newest=1

http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...7.jpg&newest=1

solenoid bolted to heat shield

http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...5.jpg&newest=1

pressure transducer bolted to support from shock tower to firewall


http://s328.photobucket.com/albums/l...6.jpg&newest=1

apc box temporarily mounted on plate above baattery-i still have to fab a proper aluminum plate ]]> bosowagon http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188345 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188344&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:45:12 GMT 93 940 tic Volvo blew a coolant something or another and sprayed it all over the exhaust last Tuesday. Seems to be leaking from the engine block area, passenger side, further back than the turbo, under the exhaust manifold somewhere. Is there an o-ring/seal/washer that goes from that pipe out of... 93 940 tic Volvo blew a coolant something or another and sprayed it all over the exhaust last Tuesday. Seems to be leaking from the engine block area, passenger side, further back than the turbo, under the exhaust manifold somewhere. Is there an o-ring/seal/washer that goes from that pipe out of the waterpump to the back of the block?

I could use a pic or diagram. Also, part number/pic or name of said seal/washer/oring? ]]> MistrThou http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188344 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188342&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:12:22 GMT here is some picture of my Volvo 744 87 GLE taken in my hometown Skellefteå, Sweden :)

















please leave a comment ! :) ]]> showroom swedishdude http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188342 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188336&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:13:35 GMT I recently purchased a spray can of touchup paint from automotivetouchup.com, medium yellow, Volvo paint code 128. After painting a test area it is a perfect match to my car’s single-stage paint job. I want to spot-correct about 5-6 defects about 1” x 1”, and then the 2 feet of the rocker... I recently purchased a spray can of touchup paint from automotivetouchup.com, medium yellow, Volvo paint code 128. After painting a test area it is a perfect match to my car’s single-stage paint job.

I want to spot-correct about 5-6 defects about 1” x 1”, and then the 2 feet of the rocker panel on the passenger side. Any advice on preparation and painting? I have 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit paper, as well as some 300, paint tape and newspaper, and the rattle can. I have rubbing compound and polish. I want to blend in and correct repairs – I’m not a perfectionist, but want to make it look nice. I’m also not an expert but can follow instruction. Advice? ]]> MoncureWW http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188336 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188334&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:21:59 GMT So I woke up one morning and said you know what I need? Another car! So it was off to craigslist to see what was there I had a few stipulations..

• 4DR
• Semi reliable
• Must be running
• RWD
• Under $1000

I wasn't looking for a Volvo and actually don't know that much about them but they kept popping up so off to the forums I go...Holy Crap they have a great following! Tons of stuff to do to them and they seem to run forever with some care...:cool:

Find a local 1986 240 on CL 211,xxx miles (broken odo), recent tune up with a few new parts , runs good, body is decent and it comes with a full set of IPD sways :oogle:
Work out the details and go get the car it passes smog with ease and now sits in the backyard!







Yes I know.. Turbo Fail!



So now immersing myself in the forums digging for ideas, advice and knowledge I start gathering a plan!

Ordered some parts...basic stuff, fuses, timing belt, bentley, flame trap.. you know starter stuff.



Next up to fix the suspension! Right now it's on a set of super cut springs and as I want this to be a driver it needs to come up a bit so I'm going to get a set of sport springs, shock/struts, redo the bushings and strut mounts then it should ride nice!

Needs tires bad and as I would need to run spacers for the current Columbas...



I'm going to swap on some Virgos for a bit and put new tires on those..



So that is where I'm out now..going to keep fixing up the small stuff, stripping the tint this weekend and putting the new wheels on lots of little things to keep me busy! ]]> showroom Zack http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188334