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ARP head stud and bolt kits

500dollar744ti

still rides with MrDoug
300+ Club
Joined
Feb 2, 2007
Location
Falls Church, VA
i've contacted ARP and asked them to add b230 and b234 stud and bolt kits to their catalog. they seem interested in doing so and want me to provide the details for the product. if anybody with the correct knowledge would like to chime in, please do so.

Hello Matthew,

Thank you for your email and suggestion/comments.
We would like to begin the process of developing a new kit for the
applications you requested. I have forwarded your request to our R&D
department and they will begin their research and testing. In addition
to our efforts, would you kindly provide the information requested
within the attached file?
Again, thank you for your time and suggestion. Any questions please
contact.

Regards,
Jay Coombes
Quality Management Assistant
P: 805.525.1497
F: 805.525.1441
jayc@arpfasteners.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Trish Yunick [mailto:trish@smokeyyunick.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 1:38 PM
To: Jay Coombes
Subject: suggestion

I would like to see Head Stud kits made available for Volvo 4-cylinder
engines. There is a vast quantity of folks I know looking for a
solution in place of the stock head bolts. many, many people running
high-output, high-boost setups don't have a solution for directly
purchasing your head bolts or studs. ARP head bolts/studs are the
industry standard for getting the job done. It is like, if you can't
do it with the ARP head studs, it's not going to work. I would like
to see head stud kits made available for the Volvo B230F and Volvo
B234F engines and added to the catalog. There is just as much of a
customer base in the Volvo community looking for these products as
there are in the Volkswagen/Audi community, which i have seen as a
part of your catalog. I use ARP head studs on my Ford V8 because I
know they are the best and I want to use them on my Volvo B234F engine
but they are not available. Please let me know if you need anything
more from me. I think you are loosing business by not making this
product available to a community willing to pay for your quality.
Thanks.


here is the PDF i need to fill out and send back for the head bolt and info, i suppose i will need to provide 3 different bolt measurements as there's the 8v bolt, the 16v long bolt, and the 16v short bolt.

i don't know if the response was automated but it looks like the lady in charge of sifting through the junk flagged my request as something useful and sent it to someone important.

anyway, if we can gather the info needed for this, they can officially add volvo to the catalog.

if anyone knows the main cap bolt info they could offer bolts or studs for that as well.
 

Attachments

  • HeadMainCalcSheets.PDF
    48.8 KB · Views: 94
i recall someone who did a headstuded 240 was unable to get his head on and off without tilting the engine forwards.

yeah just and a look at my old 240 pics. back of the sits below the protruding lip on 240's. so only really a good solution for 700/900 users (RHD maybe not as head would hit the brake booster coming out) and 240 owners willing to move there engines around when fitting/removing head
 
i recall someone who did a headstuded 240 was unable to get his head on and off without tilting the engine forwards.

yeah just and a look at my old 240 pics. back of the sits below the protruding lip on 240's. so only really a good solution for 700/900 users (RHD maybe not as head would hit the brake booster coming out) and 240 owners willing to move there engines around when fitting/removing head

all you would need to do is take the studs out. They aren't held in with any locker or anything and they have a hex/allen insert in the top. Take the nuts off, and slide each stud out.

Just as easy/difficult as a standard head bolt, but much better/more reliable clamping force.
 
i've contacted ARP and asked them to add b230 and b234 stud and bolt kits to their catalog. they seem interested in doing so and want me to provide the details for the product. if anybody with the correct knowledge would like to chime in, please do so.

Hello Matthew,

Thank you for your email and suggestion/comments.
We would like to begin the process of developing a new kit for the
applications you requested. I have forwarded your request to our R&D
department and they will begin their research and testing. In addition
to our efforts, would you kindly provide the information requested
within the attached file?
Again, thank you for your time and suggestion. Any questions please
contact.

Regards,
Jay Coombes
Quality Management Assistant
P: 805.525.1497
F: 805.525.1441
jayc@arpfasteners.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Trish Yunick [mailto:trish@smokeyyunick.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 1:38 PM
To: Jay Coombes
Subject: suggestion

I would like to see Head Stud kits made available for Volvo 4-cylinder
engines. There is a vast quantity of folks I know looking for a
solution in place of the stock head bolts. many, many people running
high-output, high-boost setups don't have a solution for directly
purchasing your head bolts or studs. ARP head bolts/studs are the
industry standard for getting the job done. It is like, if you can't
do it with the ARP head studs, it's not going to work. I would like
to see head stud kits made available for the Volvo B230F and Volvo
B234F engines and added to the catalog. There is just as much of a
customer base in the Volvo community looking for these products as
there are in the Volkswagen/Audi community, which i have seen as a
part of your catalog. I use ARP head studs on my Ford V8 because I
know they are the best and I want to use them on my Volvo B234F engine
but they are not available. Please let me know if you need anything
more from me. I think you are loosing business by not making this
product available to a community willing to pay for your quality.
Thanks.


here is the PDF i need to fill out and send back for the head bolt and info, i suppose i will need to provide 3 different bolt measurements as there's the 8v bolt, the 16v long bolt, and the 16v short bolt.

i don't know if the response was automated but it looks like the lady in charge of sifting through the junk flagged my request as something useful and sent it to someone important.

anyway, if we can gather the info needed for this, they can officially add volvo to the catalog.

if anyone knows the main cap bolt info they could offer bolts or studs for that as well.

Matt, my contact knows they have the 16v sets on the shelf, it's just boxed for some other car...you know those things that I like and say is the yardstick we all can reasonably aim for.
Frod Crossways Frewbie-frew or something like that.
I've sold maybe 12 sets last 2 years.
That ain't enough volume for them to get excited.

8v sets available also. At least to me.
ARP is big and getting answers on what they make, since they make TONS more than the list in the publicly available catalogs, all depends on your contacts, I've had the same guy for 21 years.
 
So how much will you sell studs for head and main caps? What about connecting rod bolts for the 13mm rods?


Hadn't checked on main studs, seems overkill as they're old school heft M12 things, but I can check.
13mm rod bolts, they're kinda a whacky length and since I don't like the rods (I see them as way too marginal) I have checked.

The 8v Head stud kit was around 175 plus UPS last time. Its some crazy spec material cause it originally is from some diesels running like 60PSI boost and UP (yikes!!!).
 
Those head studs you got me came out just right, or perhaps a little on the long side on the top, but completely workable John. Maybe see about sending ARP the numbers from that setup, let them package a 'kit' and bam...current stuff, another application, very little work on their end.
 
Quick interjection here... I've always wondered why studs are a better choice than bolts. I'm assuming it's something to do with getting more consistent torque? I just don't understand why they would be stronger. Anyone care to enlighten me?

M.
 
Quick interjection here... I've always wondered why studs are a better choice than bolts. I'm assuming it's something to do with getting more consistent torque? I just don't understand why they would be stronger. Anyone care to enlighten me?

M.

You're not likely to find either breaking under load, allegedly the head bolts will stretch sooner than the studs, however I have not (yet) found the point at which they consistently stretch, not sure if rob had studs or bolts in his motor but I don't believe he had issues with his stretching either. Volvo uses some fairly large bolts to hold the head down, bigger than a lot of jap stuf.
 
Deleted some stuff. Please stay on topic. John try not to take offense. Others john runs a biz, does his own leg work etc, don't expect it for free.

I suggest someone with an engine apart does some measuring if they wanted to help out with this.
 
Quick interjection here... I've always wondered why studs are a better choice than bolts.

Here's what Carroll Smith says on that subject on his book about bolts etc:

With the highly stressed engine fasteners - cylinder head, main bearing caps and connecting rods - studs are actually structurally preferable to bolts. There are 2 reasons for this. First, since the stud is threaded finger-tight into the female threads and the nut is tightened onto the stud, less of the force of tightening is used up in overcaming thread friction, and so the desired level of residual stress can be more accurately approximated. Second, for the same reason, residual stress in a stud is more evenly distributed than that in a bolt, resulting in a more efficient installed fastener.
 
I suggest people should go to ARPs website and read up about fasteners a bit.
Studs, such as HEADstuds, are intended to stretch and it is that strechiness that maintains a clamping load as the three things it is clamps (the block the headgasket and the head) expand in various directions and at drastically varying rates.

ARP and others say that since the stud stretches it imparts less stresses into the block threads and on cars with the threads very near the bore and at the top of the bolt hole, this can(and does) cause bore distortion, sealing loss, thus power loss.
MANY cars have their headbolts very close to the bores, Volvos not so close but near top.

Mains bolts are BIG, they have a simple job and holding two similar metals together isn't too rough especially as BIG and as "M twelvey" as they are.
The only reason I could think about MAIN studs is if I was doing main straps or a main girdle and needed a different length.
You guys, seriously, mains studs on these motors is kinda overkill.


And as noted, the rods are far weaker than the bolts.
They are at first quick measure, some obscure 9,7mm diameter, close to 3/8" but larger.
They are "waisted", ruduced shank under the hear to assure stretch and I doubt very seriously if there is a ready cross reference to an existing ARP bolt.
Myself, I wouldn't bother as the rod is still suspect.
 
i wasnt really interested in main studs but i thought if head stud kits were made available in the catalog and not just as a call-in thing, more people would purchase them. the more sets purchased from them, the lower the price will get.

so, John, do you have the specs for the head studs? i know you are full of exacting measurements for redblocks.
 
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