He's talking about the strut gland nut, based on what he quoted (me).
You can tighten the gland nut with the car on the ground, but how would you reach it? You need the wheel off so you can get to it, so support the car on a jackstand and use a pipe wrench. They work quite well (assuming you still have stock-type front springs that have enough space to get a pipe wrench in there.)
Front wheel bearings do fail. I've only lost one on our endurance race car, because our inner grease seal was missing I think. Otherwise, never had an issue with one because I monitor the condition of the front end and will adjust them and/or repack & adjust them as needed. They are serviceable. I've never had to replace a bad one on one of my cars because I've never let one get to that point. Even on my autocross car with big tires, no problems even after years of hard driving. I don't consider them a weak point, if maintained.
The symptom I noticed when the bearing was failing on our endurance race car was a long brake pedal, but it pumped up firm and felt fine until a few more corners. The wheel/hub/rotor was wobbling on the spindle so it pushed the brake pads back. Pedal sank almost to the floor to get the pads back up to the rotor, but then it was firm because the brake system was fine. Barely made it around to the pits on that lap, by the time I was on the hot pit there was smoke from the front wheel and the rotor was digging into the aluminum caliper. Still can't believe the caliper didn't break. It sounded bad and looked worse. Ended up having to cut the inner race off the spindle, but then was able to install a new bearing and continue racing.